CruiseAir a/c woes
Just before departing on our annual Summer cruise I went aboard to find the
air conditioner in our stateroom not working. Every time we tried to turn it
on the breaker would immediately trip. After checking all the obvious things
I called in a local repairman to look at the unit. He reported that the
compressor was fried and needed replacement. When the new compressor came
in, and he started the replacement process, he found that water was in the
freon lines and suspected that the water had been circulated all the way up
to the air handlers in both staterooms. So now repair cost has gone from
$900 to $2,200 as the entire condensing unit in ER has to be replaced, lines
flushed and purged of all moisture. Hopefully, the air handlers will not
have to be replaced. I am being warned there is some danger of not getting
all the moisture out of air handlers and that could get into new condenser
unit and fry it again.
Has anyone had this issue before? Was the flush and purge operation
successful? I would not mind getting a second opinion from a local marina
a/c guy, if I could find one. Does anyone have a recommendation for a
qualified tech in the SE Louisiana / South Mississippi area?
We have just returned from our cruise. We were lucky that nights were not
too warm so we got by with a couple of fans in the stateroom. But, I would
not want to do it on a regular basis! We went to Pensacola Beach area and
then back to Bay St Louis, MS. We did not see any oil, but on our way back
the fumes were very strong when passing behind Dauphin Island.
Thanks,
Ken Tischler
Microship
DeFever 49RPH
For that cost, why don't you replace your entire unit with an all-in-one
Mermaid ($2319 for a 24,000 reverse-cycle unit) or similar and use your
existing raw water plumbing, pump, and ducting? Based upon my one
experience with a Cruisair (now Dometic Environmental after purchase by this
Italian conglomerate) repair by an excellent repairman, I would not waste
money on a repair. They charge more for the parts than for a new unit - just
like a car except more expensive.
Ron Rogers
Sitting on top of a leak-prone, repaired Cruisair unit whose fan is the only
thing that works.
I have considered that, but it will not be easily done. First, the water
pump is located in the aft part of the engine room, and is a large March
pump feeding all four Cruiseair units through a manifold. The run to the
stateroom is about 20' and I don't think it would work to split the flow
with that much head. I will have to install a dedicated pump closer to the
stateroom. Second, there is no ducting in place now. The air handlers are
mounted directly to the walls in both staterooms and just blow through vents
there. There is no easy way to get ducting from the master stateroom to the
bow stateroom as there is a head on the port side and staircase on the stbd
side between the two rooms. So, while the cost for the entire 24K BTU unit
is $2319 (I really only need a 12K unit), I will have to factor in the cost
of another pump, and ductwork, and labor to install all of that. So, my
guess is that the cost is going to be another boat unit, or two.
Nothing on a boat is every easy, though. Good thing they are so much fun to
use.
--
Ken Tischler
Microship
DeFever 49RPH
On 6/7/2010 10:59 AM, Ken Tischler wrote:
I concur with Ron, I've faced a similar dilemma, but not of such
catastrophic damage.Based on what you've reported, I would not repair.
Yes, a thorough evac down to 100 microns will remove all water by
boiling off the water into vapor. (It's definitive, if you can hold 100
microns, there's no water. If the vacuum level rises, it's because
there's water still in the system and it's boiling off. ) HOWEVER, if
the internal parts of the refrigerant circuit have been exposed to
seawater, naahh...... very bad. And that cannot be un-done, only
replacement will remedy.
I have considered that, but it will not be easily done. First, the water
pump is located in the aft part of the engine room, and is a large March
pump feeding all four Cruiseair units through a manifold. The run to the
stateroom is about 20' and I don't think it would work to split the flow
with that much head.
Not necessarily so. I did the Mermaid conversion, I have 2 units on a
relatively high head pump, and my total length for the Mermaid unit
under the fwd berth is over 35 ft. If the pump and lines are sized
properly, it is a non-issue. It may require some math and checking the
pump curves, but it can be predicted with a high degree of accuracy.
I'd suspect if you gave Mermaid the particulars, they'd be happy to help
with the engineering.
I will have to install a dedicated pump closer to the
stateroom.
I don't think this would be needed.
Second, there is no ducting in place now. The air handlers are
mounted directly to the walls in both staterooms and just blow through vents
there. There is no easy way to get ducting from the master stateroom to the
bow stateroom as there is a head on the port side and staircase on the stbd
side between the two rooms.
That could be the fly in the ointment. I faced a similar problem, but
was able to find area below decks to get flex routed. Insulated flex
duct is available in 3" dia., that may help if you can get multiple runs
of 3" instead of a larger 5 or 6". Divide the total CFM of the unit into
proportionate pieces based on the volume of the spaces you need to
serve, that will get you close enough even without factoring in the heat
gain.
So, while the cost for the entire 24K BTU unit
is $2319 (I really only need a 12K unit), I will have to factor in the cost
of another pump, and ductwork, and labor to install all of that. So, my
guess is that the cost is going to be another boat unit, or two.
Nothing on a boat is every easy, though. Good thing they are so much fun to
use.
Just some other thoughts that may help think outside the box.<G>
--
Steve Sipe
Solo 4303 "Maerin"
Upper Chesapeake Bay