Empathy List Archives

DF

Dave Friedrich

Tue, Apr 19, 2016 2:34 PM

Lost propulsion south of Titusville and towed to a slip. The main suspect is the Velvet Drive which was seriously low on fluid. Added a quart and a half and still no rotation. Sucked enough old mixed with new fluid out to see it looked like mud. Located rebuilt tranny at TAD. Damper plate is not a prime suspect.

Question: I have Dripless Shaft Seal, and want to know if I MUST be hauled to slide the shaft back enough to remove the tranny. Can I just remove the coupler bolts, loosen the set screws (all 4), slide the shaft back, tighten the set screws, and then somehow maintain the required compression to keep the water out?

I don't want to make things worse, and I am very close to a yard. And yes, I should have checked the fluid more often.

Thanks for your thoughts.

Dave Friedrich
Monk 36 ELIZABETH
Belhaven, NC
Sent from my iPad

Lost propulsion south of Titusville and towed to a slip. The main suspect is the Velvet Drive which was seriously low on fluid. Added a quart and a half and still no rotation. Sucked enough old mixed with new fluid out to see it looked like mud. Located rebuilt tranny at TAD. Damper plate is not a prime suspect. Question: I have Dripless Shaft Seal, and want to know if I MUST be hauled to slide the shaft back enough to remove the tranny. Can I just remove the coupler bolts, loosen the set screws (all 4), slide the shaft back, tighten the set screws, and then somehow maintain the required compression to keep the water out? I don't want to make things worse, and I am very close to a yard. And yes, I should have checked the fluid more often. Thanks for your thoughts. Dave Friedrich Monk 36 ELIZABETH Belhaven, NC Sent from my iPad

SS

Steve Sipe

Tue, Apr 19, 2016 3:47 PM

Dave,

I've done this on my boat to replace a seal in the transmission input
shaft. Provided your shaft is clean & free of any imperfections that
might scar the internal o-ring on the stainless collar, you should be
able to do what you're suggesting. You're apparently aware that the set
screws are doubled up- stacked one on top the other, PSS recommends
replacing the set screws if they're removed, but I did not with no
consequence, YMMV. In my case, the shaft stayed in position on its own,
but blocking it would be a good idea if it can be accomplished. You may
want to match mark the coupler to return it to the same position. If you
do opt to haul, depending on the age of the bellows, that may be a good
time to replace it. A 6 yr interval is recommended.

Hope that helps, best luck for a successful fix!

On 4/19/2016 10:34 AM, Dave Friedrich via Trawlers-and-Trawlering wrote:

Lost propulsion south of Titusville and towed to a slip. The main suspect is the Velvet Drive which was seriously low on fluid. Added a quart and a half and still no rotation. Sucked enough old mixed with new fluid out to see it looked like mud. Located rebuilt tranny at TAD. Damper plate is not a prime suspect.

Question: I have Dripless Shaft Seal, and want to know if I MUST be hauled to slide the shaft back enough to remove the tranny. Can I just remove the coupler bolts, loosen the set screws (all 4), slide the shaft back, tighten the set screws, and then somehow maintain the required compression to keep the water out?

I don't want to make things worse, and I am very close to a yard. And yes, I should have checked the fluid more often.

Thanks for your thoughts.

Dave Friedrich

Steve Sipe
Solo 4303 /Maerin/
Lying Ft. Lauderdale

Dave, I've done this on my boat to replace a seal in the transmission input shaft. Provided your shaft is clean & free of any imperfections that might scar the internal o-ring on the stainless collar, you should be able to do what you're suggesting. You're apparently aware that the set screws are doubled up- stacked one on top the other, PSS recommends replacing the set screws if they're removed, but I did not with no consequence, YMMV. In my case, the shaft stayed in position on its own, but blocking it would be a good idea if it can be accomplished. You may want to match mark the coupler to return it to the same position. If you do opt to haul, depending on the age of the bellows, that may be a good time to replace it. A 6 yr interval is recommended. Hope that helps, best luck for a successful fix! On 4/19/2016 10:34 AM, Dave Friedrich via Trawlers-and-Trawlering wrote: > Lost propulsion south of Titusville and towed to a slip. The main suspect is the Velvet Drive which was seriously low on fluid. Added a quart and a half and still no rotation. Sucked enough old mixed with new fluid out to see it looked like mud. Located rebuilt tranny at TAD. Damper plate is not a prime suspect. > > Question: I have Dripless Shaft Seal, and want to know if I MUST be hauled to slide the shaft back enough to remove the tranny. Can I just remove the coupler bolts, loosen the set screws (all 4), slide the shaft back, tighten the set screws, and then somehow maintain the required compression to keep the water out? > > I don't want to make things worse, and I am very close to a yard. And yes, I should have checked the fluid more often. > > Thanks for your thoughts. > > Dave Friedrich > ------- Steve Sipe Solo 4303 /Maerin/ Lying Ft. Lauderdale

RG

Rich Gano

Tue, Apr 19, 2016 4:55 PM

Dave, I was able to remove a Velvet Drive and few years back for a pressure
plate replacement, and about this time last year I had to replace a leaking
rear seal from the same tranny. The boat was equipped with PYI dripless
packings. NO hauling out. The mechanic and I had to push the shaft farther
aft to change the seal while leaving the tranny attached to the engine than
we did to remove the tranny. Clean up the shaft well ahead of the packing
and the cutlass bearings and loosen the packing's collar. I tended the
packing to ensure all was going well while the mechanic a couple of feet
away heaved on a big pry bar to get the shaft aft almost a foot.

The secret to a safe and easy tranny removal and replacement is to have two
special "rails" fabricated from approximately foot-long bolts with their hex
heads cut off and a screwdriver slot cut in their ends. They replace the
top bolts on either side of the tranny after you remove the originals. Then
remove the other bolts and slide the tranny aft on your makeshift
bolt-rails.

Got that tee-shirt.

Rich Gano
FROLIC 2005 Mainship 30 Pilot II
Panama City, FL

Dave, I was able to remove a Velvet Drive and few years back for a pressure plate replacement, and about this time last year I had to replace a leaking rear seal from the same tranny. The boat was equipped with PYI dripless packings. NO hauling out. The mechanic and I had to push the shaft farther aft to change the seal while leaving the tranny attached to the engine than we did to remove the tranny. Clean up the shaft well ahead of the packing and the cutlass bearings and loosen the packing's collar. I tended the packing to ensure all was going well while the mechanic a couple of feet away heaved on a big pry bar to get the shaft aft almost a foot. The secret to a safe and easy tranny removal and replacement is to have two special "rails" fabricated from approximately foot-long bolts with their hex heads cut off and a screwdriver slot cut in their ends. They replace the top bolts on either side of the tranny after you remove the originals. Then remove the other bolts and slide the tranny aft on your makeshift bolt-rails. Got that tee-shirt. Rich Gano FROLIC 2005 Mainship 30 Pilot II Panama City, FL

JA

Janice aboard Seaweed

Wed, Apr 20, 2016 12:09 AM

Hello Cap'n.

Yes, you can do this in the water. What I'd suggest is to have on hand one
of your shaft zincs. Put it on the INSIDE so that you're assured the shaft
cannot go too far back.

Tighten the zinc a certain distance aft of where the coupler is OR the
bellows (measured, maybe six inches?) and now you have a reference point
when you reassemble. Easy.

Mark stuff and now would be a great time to replace your key (in the
coupler)
Don't ask what happens when you shear one. It is NOT a pretty event. Trust
me on that!

Janice aboard Seaweed
http://janice142.com

Good luck.

On Tue, Apr 19, 2016 at 10:34 AM, Dave Friedrich via
Trawlers-and-Trawlering trawlers@lists.trawlering.com wrote:

Question: I have Dripless Shaft Seal, and want to know if I MUST be hauled
to slide the shaft back enough to remove the tranny. Can I just remove the
coupler bolts, loosen the set screws (all 4), slide the shaft back, tighten
the set screws, and then somehow maintain the required compression to keep
the water out?

Hello Cap'n. Yes, you can do this in the water. What I'd suggest is to have on hand one of your shaft zincs. Put it on the INSIDE so that you're assured the shaft cannot go too far back. Tighten the zinc a certain distance aft of where the coupler is OR the bellows (measured, maybe six inches?) and now you have a reference point when you reassemble. Easy. Mark stuff and now would be a great time to replace your key (in the coupler) Don't ask what happens when you shear one. It is NOT a pretty event. Trust me on that! Janice aboard Seaweed http://janice142.com Good luck. On Tue, Apr 19, 2016 at 10:34 AM, Dave Friedrich via Trawlers-and-Trawlering <trawlers@lists.trawlering.com> wrote: > Question: I have Dripless Shaft Seal, and want to know if I MUST be hauled > to slide the shaft back enough to remove the tranny. Can I just remove the > coupler bolts, loosen the set screws (all 4), slide the shaft back, tighten > the set screws, and then somehow maintain the required compression to keep > the water out?

trawlers@lists.trawlering.com

To haul or not?