Empathy List Archives

MK

Mel Kowal

Sat, Jan 3, 2009 6:30 AM

I second the swap from Jabsco macerator to Sealand diaphragm. Got tired of
changing macerators. The Sealand has been trouble free for years as long as
the discharge valve is kept open. I installed a current activated switch in
line with the pump so that when the holding tank is empty the switch senses
the decrease in current draw and shuts the pump off. The pump is reset is
by turning off the pump circuit breaker. Works great. Switch details are on
the boat, far away.
Mel

MEI LEE
1983 Grand Banks Motoryacht
Swantown Marina
Olympia, WA

I second the swap from Jabsco macerator to Sealand diaphragm. Got tired of changing macerators. The Sealand has been trouble free for years as long as the discharge valve is kept open. I installed a current activated switch in line with the pump so that when the holding tank is empty the switch senses the decrease in current draw and shuts the pump off. The pump is reset is by turning off the pump circuit breaker. Works great. Switch details are on the boat, far away. Mel MEI LEE 1983 Grand Banks Motoryacht Swantown Marina Olympia, WA

SH

Scott H.E. Welch

Sun, Jan 4, 2009 12:43 AM

Mel Kowal melkowal@cox.net writes:

I second the swap from Jabsco macerator to Sealand diaphragm.

And I third it. When I refit Island Eagle I installed two Sealand diaphram
pumps on the aft black water tank and the grey water tank. I left the
existing macerator pump on the forward black water tank. That one failed the
first year of use, so I replaced it. Last summer the replacement failed. It's
now been replaced with a Sealand. Score Macerator 0, Sealand 3.

As for the switches, all of my pumps (black, grey, water transfer, fuel
polishing) are equipped with Intermatic clockwork timer switches, like this:

http://www.intermatic.com/Default.asp?action=subcat&sid=96&cid=53&did=5

They are dead simply to install and debug, and you can pick them up at Home
Despot. If you are really keen, run the pump right when the "Tank Full"
indicator comes on, make a note of how long the tank takes to empty, and the
put a label beside the switch so you know how long to run it for.

Scott Welch
Product Manager, Open Text Collaboration Solutions Group
www.firstclass.com

"Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn
out." - John Wooden

Mel Kowal <melkowal@cox.net> writes: >I second the swap from Jabsco macerator to Sealand diaphragm. And I third it. When I refit Island Eagle I installed two Sealand diaphram pumps on the aft black water tank and the grey water tank. I left the existing macerator pump on the forward black water tank. That one failed the first year of use, so I replaced it. Last summer the replacement failed. It's now been replaced with a Sealand. Score Macerator 0, Sealand 3. > As for the switches, all of my pumps (black, grey, water transfer, fuel polishing) are equipped with Intermatic clockwork timer switches, like this: http://www.intermatic.com/Default.asp?action=subcat&sid=96&cid=53&did=5 They are dead simply to install and debug, and you can pick them up at Home Despot. If you are really keen, run the pump right when the "Tank Full" indicator comes on, make a note of how long the tank takes to empty, and the put a label beside the switch so you know how long to run it for. Scott Welch Product Manager, Open Text Collaboration Solutions Group www.firstclass.com "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out." - John Wooden

KB

Ken Bloomfield

Sun, Jan 4, 2009 6:00 PM

I also agree with the use of a diaphragm pump for sewage transport.
However, there is an alternative to the Sealand pump, and that is the
Johnson pump. It is a diaphragm pump made for sewage use with a long
throw diaphragm to clear any solids that might be compromising the
valves.
At this URL http://tinyurl.com/9tu4sc you can see this pump. I purchased
this after getting fed up with replacing impellers in my Jabsco macerator
pump. Best move I ever made. Pump costs about $180 and is very nicely
made.
Ken Bloomfield

I also agree with the use of a diaphragm pump for sewage transport. However, there is an alternative to the Sealand pump, and that is the Johnson pump. It is a diaphragm pump made for sewage use with a long throw diaphragm to clear any solids that might be compromising the valves. At this URL http://tinyurl.com/9tu4sc you can see this pump. I purchased this after getting fed up with replacing impellers in my Jabsco macerator pump. Best move I ever made. Pump costs about $180 and is very nicely made. Ken Bloomfield

MK

Mel Kowal

Sun, Jan 4, 2009 6:17 PM

Ken,
What can you tell about the "The Viking Power 16 features non-choke valves"
Are the duck-bill valves as on the Sealand? Are they easy to replace?

At 11:00 AM 1/4/2009, you wrote:

.. there is an alternative to the Sealand pump, and that is the Johnson pump.

Ken, What can you tell about the "The Viking Power 16 features non-choke valves" Are the duck-bill valves as on the Sealand? Are they easy to replace? At 11:00 AM 1/4/2009, you wrote: >.. there is an alternative to the Sealand pump, and that is the Johnson pump.

KB

Ken Bloomfield

Sun, Jan 4, 2009 6:37 PM

If you go to the web-page I referenced, you will find thereon a link
near the bottom of the page that is the PDF file of the manual.
Try this http://tinyurl.com/161 (should take you right to the PDF).
The valves are very easy to replace. You just remove the clamshell clamp
and there they are. They are not duck-bill or so called "joker" valves,
but rather simple "flapper" valves similar to those used for many years
in manual toilets.
Cheers,
Ken.

Mel Kowal wrote:

Ken,
What can you tell about the "The Viking Power 16 features non-choke
valves"
Are the duck-bill valves as on the Sealand? Are they easy to replace?

At 11:00 AM 1/4/2009, you wrote:

.. there is an alternative to the Sealand pump, and that is the
Johnson pump.

If you go to the web-page I referenced, you will find thereon a link near the bottom of the page that is the PDF file of the manual. Try this http://tinyurl.com/161 (should take you right to the PDF). The valves are very easy to replace. You just remove the clamshell clamp and there they are. They are not duck-bill or so called "joker" valves, but rather simple "flapper" valves similar to those used for many years in manual toilets. Cheers, Ken. Mel Kowal wrote: Ken, What can you tell about the "The Viking Power 16 features non-choke valves" Are the duck-bill valves as on the Sealand? Are they easy to replace? At 11:00 AM 1/4/2009, you wrote: .. there is an alternative to the Sealand pump, and that is the Johnson pump.

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Holding Tank