Time for something different...
A few days ago there was some chat about the combined hawse-hole / cleat
(horns) in use on many trawlers and some 'ouch experience regarding same.
I got to thinking over my experiences and thought I would put them on the
list for target practice.
Horns should be used with either a shore line with a loop spliced in which
is more than one and a half times longer that the distance between the horns
(or an eye splice which is too small to go over both horns), or with an
un-eye spliced line. Line diameter for unspliced line is best between 9/16
and 1 1/4 inches.
Loops (spliced or not) should be passed inward around the 'near' (to the
load) horn, around the 'far' horn and back over the near horn. Easy on the
line, the boat, and crew. If casting off in a hurry, crew does not need to
struggle with the typical loop which is sized to just barely go over the
horns and typically is incorrectly applied by spreading the loop over both
horns.
An un-looped line is best attached like so:
Put a bight of about 30 inches in the line end, pass the bight through the
hawse hole and around the near horn, hook the end of the bight on the far
horn and adjust so the bitter end is next to the (near) horn with the
standing part loaded on top of it. Tighten up and that's it. If you had a
long enough bight the bitter end forms an S curve between the horns as it
goes around the horns. This is easy on the line, the boat and the crew, and
is very easy and quick to let go if need be. It best works with braided or
double braided line. If you like the principle but don't trust it yet, just
put a stopper knot at the bitter end (before securing).
Ok, seat belt is on, fire away.
Richard
Time for something different...
A few days ago there was some chat about the combined hawse-hole / cleat
(horns) in use on many trawlers and some 'ouch experience regarding same.
I got to thinking over my experiences and thought I would put them on the
list for target practice.
Horns should be used with either a shore line with a loop spliced in which
is more than one and a half times longer that the distance between the horns
(or an eye splice which is too small to go over both horns), or with an
un-eye spliced line. Line diameter for unspliced line is best between 9/16
and 1 1/4 inches.
Loops (spliced or not) should be passed inward around the 'near' (to the
load) horn, around the 'far' horn and back over the near horn. Easy on the
line, the boat, and crew. If casting off in a hurry, crew does not need to
struggle with the typical loop which is sized to just barely go over the
horns and typically is incorrectly applied by spreading the loop over both
horns.
An un-looped line is best attached like so:
Put a bight of about 30 inches in the line end, pass the bight through the
hawse hole and around the near horn, hook the end of the bight on the far
horn and adjust so the bitter end is next to the (near) horn with the
standing part loaded on top of it. Tighten up and that's it. If you had a
long enough bight the bitter end forms an S curve between the horns as it
goes around the horns. This is easy on the line, the boat and the crew, and
is very easy and quick to let go if need be. It best works with braided or
double braided line. If you like the principle but don't trust it yet, just
put a stopper knot at the bitter end (before securing).
Ok, seat belt is on, fire away.
Richard
