SC
Stewart Cobb
Sun, Feb 2, 2014 7:37 AM
What's the best way to open an OCXO in the typical solder-sealed tinned
steel can? I don't mind destroying the can itself, as long as the innards
are not harmed. The goal is to run some experiments with thermal impedance
as discussed here last week, and to ovenize parts of the EFC controller for
better stability.
Cheers!
--Stu
What's the best way to open an OCXO in the typical solder-sealed tinned
steel can? I don't mind destroying the can itself, as long as the innards
are not harmed. The goal is to run some experiments with thermal impedance
as discussed here last week, and to ovenize parts of the EFC controller for
better stability.
Cheers!
--Stu
GZ
Graeme Zimmer
Sun, Feb 2, 2014 8:50 AM
What's the best way to open an OCXO in the typical solder-sealed tinned
steel can?
Use a high wattage iron to melt the solder at one point, prise the gap
open with a flat screwdriver, then work along the join.
Solder is soft. so once you get it started you should be able to roll it
open like a can of tuna.
You could use a dremmel and a cutting disk, but the vibration might kill
the Xtal.
Alternatively, a hot air gun might work if you are quick enough not to
cook the innards.
............ Zim
> What's the best way to open an OCXO in the typical solder-sealed tinned
> steel can?
Use a high wattage iron to melt the solder at one point, prise the gap
open with a flat screwdriver, then work along the join.
Solder is soft. so once you get it started you should be able to roll it
open like a can of tuna.
You could use a dremmel and a cutting disk, but the vibration might kill
the Xtal.
Alternatively, a hot air gun might work if you are quick enough not to
cook the innards.
............ Zim
RA
Robert Atkinson
Sun, Feb 2, 2014 10:35 AM
Hi Graeme,
A technique I've found useful is to first remove the corners of the outer can by filling across them. I then rake out as much of the solder along the seams with the back edge of a disposable "snap-off" craft knife / box cutter. Finally wedging the sharp edge to break the joint. Removing the corners releves the stiffness and allows the edge of the can to be bent back in a straight line rather than a rough set of bumps.
On many hermetically sealed aircraft instruments they put a "tear" wire at the bottom of the solder joint with a tail sticking out. You just grasp this and pull. While the joint geometry on the aircraft instrument is designed for this (typically with a non-metallic packing under the wire) and your OCXO isn't, it is a good idea to leave the case slightly flaired and lay a length of tinned copper wire in it before ligthly soldering over the top.
Robert G8RPI.
From: Graeme Zimmer gzimmer@wideband.net.au
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement time-nuts@febo.com
Sent: Sunday, 2 February 2014, 8:50
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] How to open solder-sealed OCXOs?
What's the best way to open an OCXO in the typical solder-sealed tinned
steel can?
Use a high wattage iron to melt the solder at one point, prise the gap
open with a flat screwdriver, then work along the join.
Solder is soft. so once you get it started you should be able to roll it
open like a can of tuna.
You could use a dremmel and a cutting disk, but the vibration might kill
the Xtal.
Alternatively, a hot air gun might work if you are quick enough not to
cook the innards.
............ Zim
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.
Hi Graeme,
A technique I've found useful is to first remove the corners of the outer can by filling across them. I then rake out as much of the solder along the seams with the back edge of a disposable "snap-off" craft knife / box cutter. Finally wedging the sharp edge to break the joint. Removing the corners releves the stiffness and allows the edge of the can to be bent back in a straight line rather than a rough set of bumps.
On many hermetically sealed aircraft instruments they put a "tear" wire at the bottom of the solder joint with a tail sticking out. You just grasp this and pull. While the joint geometry on the aircraft instrument is designed for this (typically with a non-metallic packing under the wire) and your OCXO isn't, it is a good idea to leave the case slightly flaired and lay a length of tinned copper wire in it before ligthly soldering over the top.
Robert G8RPI.
________________________________
From: Graeme Zimmer <gzimmer@wideband.net.au>
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement <time-nuts@febo.com>
Sent: Sunday, 2 February 2014, 8:50
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] How to open solder-sealed OCXOs?
> What's the best way to open an OCXO in the typical solder-sealed tinned
> steel can?
Use a high wattage iron to melt the solder at one point, prise the gap
open with a flat screwdriver, then work along the join.
Solder is soft. so once you get it started you should be able to roll it
open like a can of tuna.
You could use a dremmel and a cutting disk, but the vibration might kill
the Xtal.
Alternatively, a hot air gun might work if you are quick enough not to
cook the innards.
............ Zim
_______________________________________________
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.
BS
Bob Stewart
Sun, Feb 2, 2014 1:49 PM
You can also take the tip out of a soldering gun and apply the gun's two posts directly to the can for resistance heating. I've used that method a time or two on large items. You need to push firmly to get good contact. The voltage is very low.
Bob
From: Graeme Zimmer gzimmer@wideband.net.au
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement time-nuts@febo.com
Sent: Sunday, February 2, 2014 2:50 AM
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] How to open solder-sealed OCXOs?
What's the best way to open an OCXO in the typical solder-sealed tinned
steel can?
Use a high wattage iron to melt the solder at one point, prise the gap open with a flat screwdriver, then work along the join.
Solder is soft. so once you get it started you should be able to roll it open like a can of tuna.
You could use a dremmel and a cutting disk, but the vibration might kill the Xtal.
Alternatively, a hot air gun might work if you are quick enough not to cook the innards.
............ Zim
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.
You can also take the tip out of a soldering gun and apply the gun's two posts directly to the can for resistance heating. I've used that method a time or two on large items. You need to push firmly to get good contact. The voltage is very low.
Bob
>________________________________
> From: Graeme Zimmer <gzimmer@wideband.net.au>
>To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement <time-nuts@febo.com>
>Sent: Sunday, February 2, 2014 2:50 AM
>Subject: Re: [time-nuts] How to open solder-sealed OCXOs?
>
>
>
>> What's the best way to open an OCXO in the typical solder-sealed tinned
>> steel can?
>
>Use a high wattage iron to melt the solder at one point, prise the gap open with a flat screwdriver, then work along the join.
>
>Solder is soft. so once you get it started you should be able to roll it open like a can of tuna.
>
>You could use a dremmel and a cutting disk, but the vibration might kill the Xtal.
>
>Alternatively, a hot air gun might work if you are quick enough not to cook the innards.
>
>............ Zim
>_______________________________________________
>time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
>To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
>and follow the instructions there.
>
>
>
JL
J. L. Trantham
Sun, Feb 2, 2014 2:00 PM
I've never opened an OCXO but I have opened several sealed HV power supplies
used on HP 5061A and 5061B CS Standards. These supplies are mounted by four
6-32 screw studs which make for easy 'holding' in a lightly tightened vise.
I used a very focused hand held propane torch to go around the very base of
the supply while grabbing the top with a large set of slip joint pliers and
applying a gentle lifting/rocking motion. You have to heat up the entire
circumference but it doesn't take too long and there was never any internal
or external damage. Very easy to reassemble in the original configuration
as well.
I also remember a thread several months ago about opening a Morion MV89A
OCXO to repair a loose solder joint on the output. I don't recall what
their method was but you should be able to find it in the archive. I think
it, too, was an 'unsoldering' approach.
Hope this helps.
Good luck.
Joe
-----Original Message-----
From: time-nuts-bounces@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-bounces@febo.com] On
Behalf Of Stewart Cobb
Sent: Sunday, February 02, 2014 1:37 AM
To: time-nuts@febo.com
Subject: [time-nuts] How to open solder-sealed OCXOs?
What's the best way to open an OCXO in the typical solder-sealed tinned
steel can? I don't mind destroying the can itself, as long as the innards
are not harmed. The goal is to run some experiments with thermal impedance
as discussed here last week, and to ovenize parts of the EFC controller for
better stability.
Cheers!
--Stu
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to
https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.
I've never opened an OCXO but I have opened several sealed HV power supplies
used on HP 5061A and 5061B CS Standards. These supplies are mounted by four
6-32 screw studs which make for easy 'holding' in a lightly tightened vise.
I used a very focused hand held propane torch to go around the very base of
the supply while grabbing the top with a large set of slip joint pliers and
applying a gentle lifting/rocking motion. You have to heat up the entire
circumference but it doesn't take too long and there was never any internal
or external damage. Very easy to reassemble in the original configuration
as well.
I also remember a thread several months ago about opening a Morion MV89A
OCXO to repair a loose solder joint on the output. I don't recall what
their method was but you should be able to find it in the archive. I think
it, too, was an 'unsoldering' approach.
Hope this helps.
Good luck.
Joe
-----Original Message-----
From: time-nuts-bounces@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-bounces@febo.com] On
Behalf Of Stewart Cobb
Sent: Sunday, February 02, 2014 1:37 AM
To: time-nuts@febo.com
Subject: [time-nuts] How to open solder-sealed OCXOs?
What's the best way to open an OCXO in the typical solder-sealed tinned
steel can? I don't mind destroying the can itself, as long as the innards
are not harmed. The goal is to run some experiments with thermal impedance
as discussed here last week, and to ovenize parts of the EFC controller for
better stability.
Cheers!
--Stu
_______________________________________________
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to
https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.
BC
Bob Camp
Sun, Feb 2, 2014 3:07 PM
Hi
If you are tossing the can, a mill is by far the best way to open up an OCXO. That of course assumes you have a mill…
It’s not a chip intensive process. You can easily do it with an X/Y table on a drill press. Of course that assumes you have all of that stuff….
Bob
On Feb 2, 2014, at 2:37 AM, Stewart Cobb stewart.cobb@gmail.com wrote:
What's the best way to open an OCXO in the typical solder-sealed tinned
steel can? I don't mind destroying the can itself, as long as the innards
are not harmed. The goal is to run some experiments with thermal impedance
as discussed here last week, and to ovenize parts of the EFC controller for
better stability.
Cheers!
--Stu
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.
Hi
If you are tossing the can, a mill is by far the best way to open up an OCXO. That of course assumes you have a mill…
It’s not a chip intensive process. You can easily do it with an X/Y table on a drill press. Of course that assumes you have all of that stuff….
Bob
On Feb 2, 2014, at 2:37 AM, Stewart Cobb <stewart.cobb@gmail.com> wrote:
> What's the best way to open an OCXO in the typical solder-sealed tinned
> steel can? I don't mind destroying the can itself, as long as the innards
> are not harmed. The goal is to run some experiments with thermal impedance
> as discussed here last week, and to ovenize parts of the EFC controller for
> better stability.
>
> Cheers!
> --Stu
> _______________________________________________
> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
> To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
> and follow the instructions there.
JF
J. Forster
Sun, Feb 2, 2014 3:49 PM
IMO, the easiest way (non-destructive too!0 is with a high wattage iron or
250 W gun, solder wick or a solder sucker, and an X-Acto knife.
Start in the middle of one side. Heat the joint area and suck out as much
of the solder from the joint area as you can. Slip the knife in the joint
and pry gently after sucking to prevent any residual solder from bridging
the gap. when that area has cooled, move left or right and work your way
around the can. Eventually, when almost all the solder is out, gentle
prying at the joint will pop the top off.
Work slowly and patriently and you'll be able to resolder the can just
about as new.
-John
==============
What's the best way to open an OCXO in the typical solder-sealed tinned
steel can? I don't mind destroying the can itself, as long as the innards
are not harmed. The goal is to run some experiments with thermal impedance
as discussed here last week, and to ovenize parts of the EFC controller
for
better stability.
Cheers!
--Stu
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to
https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.
IMO, the easiest way (non-destructive too!0 is with a high wattage iron or
250 W gun, solder wick or a solder sucker, and an X-Acto knife.
Start in the middle of one side. Heat the joint area and suck out as much
of the solder from the joint area as you can. Slip the knife in the joint
and pry gently after sucking to prevent any residual solder from bridging
the gap. when that area has cooled, move left or right and work your way
around the can. Eventually, when almost all the solder is out, gentle
prying at the joint will pop the top off.
Work slowly and patriently and you'll be able to resolder the can just
about as new.
-John
==============
> What's the best way to open an OCXO in the typical solder-sealed tinned
> steel can? I don't mind destroying the can itself, as long as the innards
> are not harmed. The goal is to run some experiments with thermal impedance
> as discussed here last week, and to ovenize parts of the EFC controller
> for
> better stability.
>
> Cheers!
> --Stu
> _______________________________________________
> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
> To unsubscribe, go to
> https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
> and follow the instructions there.
>
>
CH
Chuck Harris
Sun, Feb 2, 2014 4:56 PM
One thing about soldering that many people don't know is
that the solder is attracted to the hottest part of the joint.
If you apply the soldering iron to the side of the can, the
solder will be sucked down into the can, leaving a gap where
the lid meets the can...
So, if you want to solder a can shut neatly, apply the soldering
iron so that it bridges the gap between the lid and the can, and
apply the solder to the leading edge of the soldering iron just
where the iron meets the can/lid.
Also, avoid using eutectic solders (63/37) for any soldering job
where you want to make a smooth fillet. Eutectic solders have
a single melt temperature, with no slush zone, and as such they
are either fully melted, or not. They don't thicken and build
like non-eutectic solder (60/40)
-Chuck Harris
J. Forster wrote:
IMO, the easiest way (non-destructive too!0 is with a high wattage iron or
250 W gun, solder wick or a solder sucker, and an X-Acto knife.
Start in the middle of one side. Heat the joint area and suck out as much
of the solder from the joint area as you can. Slip the knife in the joint
and pry gently after sucking to prevent any residual solder from bridging
the gap. when that area has cooled, move left or right and work your way
around the can. Eventually, when almost all the solder is out, gentle
prying at the joint will pop the top off.
Work slowly and patriently and you'll be able to resolder the can just
about as new.
-John
One thing about soldering that many people don't know is
that the solder is attracted to the hottest part of the joint.
If you apply the soldering iron to the side of the can, the
solder will be sucked down into the can, leaving a gap where
the lid meets the can...
So, if you want to solder a can shut neatly, apply the soldering
iron so that it bridges the gap between the lid and the can, and
apply the solder to the leading edge of the soldering iron just
where the iron meets the can/lid.
Also, avoid using eutectic solders (63/37) for any soldering job
where you want to make a smooth fillet. Eutectic solders have
a single melt temperature, with no slush zone, and as such they
are either fully melted, or not. They don't thicken and build
like non-eutectic solder (60/40)
-Chuck Harris
J. Forster wrote:
> IMO, the easiest way (non-destructive too!0 is with a high wattage iron or
> 250 W gun, solder wick or a solder sucker, and an X-Acto knife.
>
> Start in the middle of one side. Heat the joint area and suck out as much
> of the solder from the joint area as you can. Slip the knife in the joint
> and pry gently after sucking to prevent any residual solder from bridging
> the gap. when that area has cooled, move left or right and work your way
> around the can. Eventually, when almost all the solder is out, gentle
> prying at the joint will pop the top off.
>
> Work slowly and patriently and you'll be able to resolder the can just
> about as new.
>
> -John
JF
J. Forster
Sun, Feb 2, 2014 5:01 PM
In general, I sandwich the solder wick between the joint and the iron. In
such a joint, the solder is mostly at the edge of the joint:
==============OO <------- Solder bead
===================
You don't really want to heat the thing so the solder flows into the joint
more deeply.
-John
====================
One thing about soldering that many people don't know is
that the solder is attracted to the hottest part of the joint.
If you apply the soldering iron to the side of the can, the
solder will be sucked down into the can, leaving a gap where
the lid meets the can...
So, if you want to solder a can shut neatly, apply the soldering
iron so that it bridges the gap between the lid and the can, and
apply the solder to the leading edge of the soldering iron just
where the iron meets the can/lid.
Also, avoid using eutectic solders (63/37) for any soldering job
where you want to make a smooth fillet. Eutectic solders have
a single melt temperature, with no slush zone, and as such they
are either fully melted, or not. They don't thicken and build
like non-eutectic solder (60/40)
-Chuck Harris
J. Forster wrote:
IMO, the easiest way (non-destructive too!0 is with a high wattage iron
or
250 W gun, solder wick or a solder sucker, and an X-Acto knife.
Start in the middle of one side. Heat the joint area and suck out as
much
of the solder from the joint area as you can. Slip the knife in the
joint
and pry gently after sucking to prevent any residual solder from
bridging
the gap. when that area has cooled, move left or right and work your way
around the can. Eventually, when almost all the solder is out, gentle
prying at the joint will pop the top off.
Work slowly and patriently and you'll be able to resolder the can just
about as new.
-John
In general, I sandwich the solder wick between the joint and the iron. In
such a joint, the solder is mostly at the edge of the joint:
==============OO <------- Solder bead
===================
You don't really want to heat the thing so the solder flows into the joint
more deeply.
-John
====================
> One thing about soldering that many people don't know is
> that the solder is attracted to the hottest part of the joint.
>
> If you apply the soldering iron to the side of the can, the
> solder will be sucked down into the can, leaving a gap where
> the lid meets the can...
>
> So, if you want to solder a can shut neatly, apply the soldering
> iron so that it bridges the gap between the lid and the can, and
> apply the solder to the leading edge of the soldering iron just
> where the iron meets the can/lid.
>
> Also, avoid using eutectic solders (63/37) for any soldering job
> where you want to make a smooth fillet. Eutectic solders have
> a single melt temperature, with no slush zone, and as such they
> are either fully melted, or not. They don't thicken and build
> like non-eutectic solder (60/40)
>
> -Chuck Harris
>
> J. Forster wrote:
>> IMO, the easiest way (non-destructive too!0 is with a high wattage iron
>> or
>> 250 W gun, solder wick or a solder sucker, and an X-Acto knife.
>>
>> Start in the middle of one side. Heat the joint area and suck out as
>> much
>> of the solder from the joint area as you can. Slip the knife in the
>> joint
>> and pry gently after sucking to prevent any residual solder from
>> bridging
>> the gap. when that area has cooled, move left or right and work your way
>> around the can. Eventually, when almost all the solder is out, gentle
>> prying at the joint will pop the top off.
>>
>> Work slowly and patriently and you'll be able to resolder the can just
>> about as new.
>>
>> -John
> _______________________________________________
> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
> To unsubscribe, go to
> https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
> and follow the instructions there.
>
>
