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Rust on Stainless

ML
Michael Liddle
Mon, Dec 11, 2006 4:19 PM

Good day listees and Happy Holidays!

I'm going around the boat and planning on fixing all the stainless bases on
stanchions and bimini top supports where there is rust.  FSR and Whink seem
to get most of the rust off the fiberglass, but don't seem to help the
stainless.  I am replacing all the stainless screws as I remount, which is
where I think most of the problem is with the rust.  Should I also replace
the stainless fittings?  That would be very expensive to replace them all,
support and stanchion bases.  Put something on contact points between
stainless and fiberglass?

I also use Collinite's #850 Metal wax to get rust off the stainless railings
which works getting rust and spots off, but doesn't seem to protect the
stainless very long.

Is there something else that would be better to protect the railings longer?

Best regards,

Michael Liddle

53 Navigator

Aventura Florida

jmlejets@gmail.com

Good day listees and Happy Holidays! I'm going around the boat and planning on fixing all the stainless bases on stanchions and bimini top supports where there is rust. FSR and Whink seem to get most of the rust off the fiberglass, but don't seem to help the stainless. I am replacing all the stainless screws as I remount, which is where I think most of the problem is with the rust. Should I also replace the stainless fittings? That would be very expensive to replace them all, support and stanchion bases. Put something on contact points between stainless and fiberglass? I also use Collinite's #850 Metal wax to get rust off the stainless railings which works getting rust and spots off, but doesn't seem to protect the stainless very long. Is there something else that would be better to protect the railings longer? Best regards, Michael Liddle 53 Navigator Aventura Florida jmlejets@gmail.com
K
Keith
Mon, Dec 11, 2006 4:43 PM

If the rust is coming from the screws, be sure to replace them with 316...
you may have 302 in there now, and they are rusting. Remember, it's
stainLESS, not stainPROOF. For "ghost rust" that little brownish tarnish SS
gets, I have good luck with Nevr-Dull. It's a wadding with some chemical in
it that cleans the SS and at least seems to protect it a little. For heavy
stuff, and other metals, 3M's metal restorer and polish is great, as are
Simichrome polish and Flitz. As far as rebedding, I personally prefer
polysulfides like Boatlife, although other materials can be used, as well as
physical gaskets.

Keith


Why do we sing "Take me out to the ball game" when we are already there?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Liddle" jmlejets@gmail.com

I'm going around the boat and planning on fixing all the stainless bases
on
stanchions and bimini top supports where there is rust.  FSR and Whink
seem
to get most of the rust off the fiberglass, but don't seem to help the
stainless.  I am replacing all the stainless screws as I remount, which is
where I think most of the problem is with the rust.  Should I also
replace
the stainless fittings?  That would be very expensive to replace them all,
support and stanchion bases.  Put something on contact points between
stainless and fiberglass?

If the rust is coming from the screws, be sure to replace them with 316... you may have 302 in there now, and they are rusting. Remember, it's stainLESS, not stainPROOF. For "ghost rust" that little brownish tarnish SS gets, I have good luck with Nevr-Dull. It's a wadding with some chemical in it that cleans the SS and at least seems to protect it a little. For heavy stuff, and other metals, 3M's metal restorer and polish is great, as are Simichrome polish and Flitz. As far as rebedding, I personally prefer polysulfides like Boatlife, although other materials can be used, as well as physical gaskets. Keith _____ Why do we sing "Take me out to the ball game" when we are already there? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Liddle" <jmlejets@gmail.com> > > > > I'm going around the boat and planning on fixing all the stainless bases > on > stanchions and bimini top supports where there is rust. FSR and Whink > seem > to get most of the rust off the fiberglass, but don't seem to help the > stainless. I am replacing all the stainless screws as I remount, which is > where I think most of the problem is with the rust. Should I also > replace > the stainless fittings? That would be very expensive to replace them all, > support and stanchion bases. Put something on contact points between > stainless and fiberglass?
RS
rudy sechez
Mon, Dec 11, 2006 7:32 PM

Hello Michael:
Underneath fittings and around the fasteners should not weep rust. If they are, the bedding, if present, has failed.  All fittings need to be bedded to keep moisture out. The rust is coming from wetness- water, rain, condensation, dew, etc.  Bedding in a tube does not work forever as many people assume it will.  I assume it will only last for 5 years, max, but more importantly, the bedding in some places will last even less, especially if the fitting is not installed correctly when using this type of sealant.  The trouble is that you cannot guess at which places the bedding will fail and when.  This is why I favor the oil-based bedding compounds, such as boatyard bedding compound sold by both Interlux and petit, not just for wood, but also on fiberglass and metal components.  I have been using it for years and have much better results with it than with the "tube" compounds.  Once you use it, it is very possible to never go back to the tubes unless you have a specific
application that requires it.  It is easier, not as messy, cleans up with paint thinner, can be given some rot resisting properties by adding copper napthinate (or a like compound), but best of all, it allows the fittings to come apart easy, is easy to clean off ,much more fun to apply and although I have not done an indepth evaluation, it is my impression it is cheaper.  Give it a thought.

Michael Liddle jmlejets@gmail.com wrote:
Good day listees and Happy Holidays!

I'm going around the boat and planning on fixing all the stainless bases on
stanchions and bimini top supports where there is rust. FSR and Whink seem
to get most of the rust off the fiberglass, but don't seem to help the
stainless. I am replacing all the stainless screws as I remount, which is
where I think most of the problem is with the rust. Should I also replace
the stainless fittings? That would be very expensive to replace them all,
support and stanchion bases. Put something on contact points between
stainless and fiberglass?

I also use Collinite's #850 Metal wax to get rust off the stainless railings
which works getting rust and spots off, but doesn't seem to protect the
stainless very long.

Is there something else that would be better to protect the railings longer?

Best regards,

Michael Liddle

53 Navigator

Aventura Florida

jmlejets@gmail.com


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Hello Michael: Underneath fittings and around the fasteners should not weep rust. If they are, the bedding, if present, has failed. All fittings need to be bedded to keep moisture out. The rust is coming from wetness- water, rain, condensation, dew, etc. Bedding in a tube does not work forever as many people assume it will. I assume it will only last for 5 years, max, but more importantly, the bedding in some places will last even less, especially if the fitting is not installed correctly when using this type of sealant. The trouble is that you cannot guess at which places the bedding will fail and when. This is why I favor the oil-based bedding compounds, such as boatyard bedding compound sold by both Interlux and petit, not just for wood, but also on fiberglass and metal components. I have been using it for years and have much better results with it than with the "tube" compounds. Once you use it, it is very possible to never go back to the tubes unless you have a specific application that requires it. It is easier, not as messy, cleans up with paint thinner, can be given some rot resisting properties by adding copper napthinate (or a like compound), but best of all, it allows the fittings to come apart easy, is easy to clean off ,much more fun to apply and although I have not done an indepth evaluation, it is my impression it is cheaper. Give it a thought. Michael Liddle <jmlejets@gmail.com> wrote: Good day listees and Happy Holidays! I'm going around the boat and planning on fixing all the stainless bases on stanchions and bimini top supports where there is rust. FSR and Whink seem to get most of the rust off the fiberglass, but don't seem to help the stainless. I am replacing all the stainless screws as I remount, which is where I think most of the problem is with the rust. Should I also replace the stainless fittings? That would be very expensive to replace them all, support and stanchion bases. Put something on contact points between stainless and fiberglass? I also use Collinite's #850 Metal wax to get rust off the stainless railings which works getting rust and spots off, but doesn't seem to protect the stainless very long. Is there something else that would be better to protect the railings longer? Best regards, Michael Liddle 53 Navigator Aventura Florida jmlejets@gmail.com _______________________________________________ http://lists.samurai.com/mailman/listinfo/trawlers-and-trawlering To unsubscribe send email to trawlers-and-trawlering-request@lists.samurai.com with the word UNSUBSCRIBE and nothing else in the subject or body of the message. Trawlers & Trawlering and T&T are trademarks of Water World Productions. Unauthorized use is prohibited. --------------------------------- Have a burning question? Go to Yahoo! Answers and get answers from real people who know.
RR
Ron Rogers
Mon, Dec 11, 2006 7:50 PM

Don't forget Whink to remove stains on stainless.

Ron Rogers

Don't forget Whink to remove stains on stainless. Ron Rogers
ML
Michael Liddle
Mon, Dec 11, 2006 7:55 PM

Rudy,  That sounds interesting.  I'd like to find out a little more about
it.  I'll check around FLL for one of the suppliers to see who carries it.
Anybody else on list have any experience  with it?

Best regards,

Michael Liddle

jmlejets@gmail.com

214-450-0968


From: rudy sechez [mailto:rudyandjill@yahoo.com]
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 2:33 PM
To: Michael Liddle
Cc: trawlers-and-trawlering@lists.samurai.com
Subject: Re: T&T: Rust on Stainless

Hello Michael:

Underneath fittings and around the fasteners should not weep rust. If they
are, the bedding, if present, has failed.  All fittings need to be bedded to
keep moisture out. The rust is coming from wetness- water, rain,
condensation, dew, etc.  Bedding in a tube does not work forever as many
people assume it will.  I assume it will only last for 5 years, max, but
more importantly, the bedding in some places will last even less, especially
if the fitting is not installed correctly when using this type of sealant.
The trouble is that you cannot guess at which places the bedding will fail
and when.  This is why I favor the oil-based bedding compounds, such as
boatyard bedding compound sold by both Interlux and petit, not just for
wood, but also on fiberglass and metal components.  I have been using it for
years and have much better results with it than with the "tube" compounds.
Once you use it, it is very possible to never go back to the tubes unless
you have a specific application that requires it.  It is easier, not as
messy, cleans up with paint thinner, can be given some rot resisting
properties by adding copper napthinate (or a like compound), but best of
all, it allows the fittings to come apart easy, is easy to clean off ,much
more fun to apply and although I have not done an indepth evaluation, it is
my impression it is cheaper.  Give it a thought.

Michael Liddle jmlejets@gmail.com wrote:

Good day listees and Happy Holidays!

I'm going around the boat and planning on fixing all the stainless bases on
stanchions and bimini top supports where there is rust. FSR and Whink seem
to get most of the rust off the fiberglass, but don't seem to help the
stainless. I am replacing all the stainless screws as I remount, which is
where I think most of the problem is with the rust. Should I also replace
the stainless fittings? That would be very expensive to replace them all,
support and stanchion bases. Put something on contact points between
stainless and fiberglass?

I also use Collinite's #850 Metal wax to get rust off the stainless railings
which works getting rust and spots off, but doesn't seem to protect the
stainless very long.

Is there something else that would be better to protect the railings longer?

Best regards,

Michael Liddle

53 Navigator

Aventura Florida

jmlejets@gmail.com


http://lists.samurai.com/mailman/listinfo/trawlers-and-trawlering

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Trawlers & Trawlering and T&T are trademarks of Water World
Productions. Unauthorized use is prohibited.


Have a burning question? Go to Yahoo!
<http://answers.yahoo.com/;_ylc=X3oDMTFvbGNhMGE3BF9TAzM5NjU0NTEwOARfcwMzOTY1
NDUxMDMEc2VjA21haWxfdGFnbGluZQRzbGsDbWFpbF90YWcx>  Answers and get answers
from real people who know.

Rudy, That sounds interesting. I'd like to find out a little more about it. I'll check around FLL for one of the suppliers to see who carries it. Anybody else on list have any experience with it? Best regards, Michael Liddle jmlejets@gmail.com 214-450-0968 _____ From: rudy sechez [mailto:rudyandjill@yahoo.com] Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 2:33 PM To: Michael Liddle Cc: trawlers-and-trawlering@lists.samurai.com Subject: Re: T&T: Rust on Stainless Hello Michael: Underneath fittings and around the fasteners should not weep rust. If they are, the bedding, if present, has failed. All fittings need to be bedded to keep moisture out. The rust is coming from wetness- water, rain, condensation, dew, etc. Bedding in a tube does not work forever as many people assume it will. I assume it will only last for 5 years, max, but more importantly, the bedding in some places will last even less, especially if the fitting is not installed correctly when using this type of sealant. The trouble is that you cannot guess at which places the bedding will fail and when. This is why I favor the oil-based bedding compounds, such as boatyard bedding compound sold by both Interlux and petit, not just for wood, but also on fiberglass and metal components. I have been using it for years and have much better results with it than with the "tube" compounds. Once you use it, it is very possible to never go back to the tubes unless you have a specific application that requires it. It is easier, not as messy, cleans up with paint thinner, can be given some rot resisting properties by adding copper napthinate (or a like compound), but best of all, it allows the fittings to come apart easy, is easy to clean off ,much more fun to apply and although I have not done an indepth evaluation, it is my impression it is cheaper. Give it a thought. Michael Liddle <jmlejets@gmail.com> wrote: Good day listees and Happy Holidays! I'm going around the boat and planning on fixing all the stainless bases on stanchions and bimini top supports where there is rust. FSR and Whink seem to get most of the rust off the fiberglass, but don't seem to help the stainless. I am replacing all the stainless screws as I remount, which is where I think most of the problem is with the rust. Should I also replace the stainless fittings? That would be very expensive to replace them all, support and stanchion bases. Put something on contact points between stainless and fiberglass? I also use Collinite's #850 Metal wax to get rust off the stainless railings which works getting rust and spots off, but doesn't seem to protect the stainless very long. Is there something else that would be better to protect the railings longer? Best regards, Michael Liddle 53 Navigator Aventura Florida jmlejets@gmail.com _______________________________________________ http://lists.samurai.com/mailman/listinfo/trawlers-and-trawlering To unsubscribe send email to trawlers-and-trawlering-request@lists.samurai.com with the word UNSUBSCRIBE and nothing else in the subject or body of the message. Trawlers & Trawlering and T&T are trademarks of Water World Productions. Unauthorized use is prohibited. _____ Have a burning question? Go to Yahoo! <http://answers.yahoo.com/;_ylc=X3oDMTFvbGNhMGE3BF9TAzM5NjU0NTEwOARfcwMzOTY1 NDUxMDMEc2VjA21haWxfdGFnbGluZQRzbGsDbWFpbF90YWcx> Answers and get answers from real people who know.