Power cords 30/50
Hi Kevin-
Not a bad idea! I assume you mean a 50A 125V connector. We have an
additional 30A/125V male inlet which is clearly marked "30A 240V 50HZ" It is
connected to a switch to a dedicated 240V 50HZ battery charger which senses what's
connected and switches automatically, but the surveyor said the connector
didn't conform to ABYC and had to be changed. Of course I didn't do that!
It might be a good idea, before buying the female connector, to see if the
terminals on the 50 will accept the 30A cable's conductors and if the strain
relief will grip the smaller jacket.
Regards,
John
"Seahorse"
When 30amp cord ends burn up you can protect the boat end of the cord by
retrofitting a 50amp unit, That way if a malfunction happens the damage will
happen first at the weaker dockside connection which should remain at 30amps.
Having taken both 30 and 50amp ends apart you can see the difference in fire
saftey prevention.
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A 50amp connector is a different pin configuration, right? Wouldn't this be
a terrible idea? Wouldn't I need to replace both the cable end and the
receptacle? If so, I'd now have a receptacle with wires sized for 30 amps
connected to a 50 amp connector, violating the wiring specs. Seems like a
terrible idea to me when keeping the contacts clean should resolve the
issue? This idea seems wrought with problems, unless there is something I'm
just not understanding?
Scott Bulger, Alanui, N40II, Seattle WA
Oh, also, if going this route and doing Passagemaking, a better idea would
be to discuss a world wide solution to the problem. As Less asked earlier,
is there some common connector that would make more sense to wire and
configure, giving you better world wide access, or is it best to leave it as
is and use cables to adapt to each configuration you experience?
I too am confused. Here in my marina, we do have a Pearson trawler with a
125V 50AMP Hubbell cable. With adapters, this power cord is connected to the
dock's 125V 30AMP outlets.
That cord's connectors bear no resemblance to my 125V/240V 50AMP Hubbell
power cord's connectors. I have searched for adapters to connect to ONE
30AMP outlet and cannot find anything.
I assume that previous emails have been referring to the first 50AMP cable
which is only made for 125V.
Ron Rogers
Scott
Yes you need to replace both the cable end what it goes into-relativly cheap insurance. I use lanocane-a lanoline grease available at west marine to keep the contacts clean. As I said take some 30 and 50 amp connectors apart and determine for yourself which one you want attached to your-it will burn down to the waterline hull material. I would also consider replacing shore power cords every few years-reusing your 50 amp connector- the individual, untinned, strands of wire get green and act as individuals rather than a group. As to the issue of violating specs, thicker and stronger and even gold plated is always better than thinner, cheaper and compromised. Kevin
"Scott E. Bulger" scottebulger@gmail.com wrote
This idea seems wrought with problems, unless there is something I'm
just not understanding?
Scott Bulger, Alanui, N40II, Seattle WA
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I would not consider placing a 50amp shore power receptacle on the exterior
of my boat with wire rated at 30amps behind it. If the boat burned in the
future I'd no doubt be liable for violating the wiring specifications.
Perhaps if I retrofitted everything from the receptacle to the inverter I'd
be ok, but that's more work than keeping the connectors bright and shiny.
This sounds like a case of the cure being worse than the disease. Just my
humble opinion.
Scott
Scott
Point is that if you are hooked up to a 30amp shore outlet-30amp cord, 50amp house outlet and 30 amp interior wire- how could you over amp? Now from a liability perspective-IF someone replaced the 30 amp cord (30/50) with a (50/50) amp cord at a later date there would be a potential problem-depending on your wire inside the boat. Its like hull insurance-some people have it and are relaxed if the boat is lost/damaged,-some people dont and devise safties and backups. Its not just a question of clean and shine. dock wire, lightning, loose fits are issues. No one with a new boat is going to do this type of modifacation- you can always trust in the USCG abdication of saftey build certifacation to the boatbuilders sic.,anyone who has had a hot cord/outlet issue would prefer that the issue be decieded anywhere else than on his boat. The 30/50 cord suggestion is safer than a 30/30 cord when the s-it hits the fan-and it does on boats. Kevin (30 days to launch/repowered) JOLIE
Miles River Yacht Club after 5 years on wait list)
"Scott E. Bulger" scottebulger@gmail.com wrote:
I would not consider placing a 50amp shore power receptacle on the exterior
of my boat with wire rated at 30amps behind it. If the boat burned in the
future I'd no doubt be liable for violating the wiring specifications.
Perhaps if I retrofitted everything from the receptacle to the inverter I'd
be ok, but that's more work than keeping the connectors bright and shiny.
This sounds like a case of the cure being worse than the disease. Just my
humble opinion.
Scott
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The way to deal with the 50amp inlet fitting and 30amp interior wiring is to
replace the wire from the 50amp inlet to the 30amp main breaker(inside the
boat) with the correct wire size for 50amps. I believe that would be #6
wire, the same as in a 125v/50amp shore power cord. That way if someone
used a 50/50amp shore power cord plugged into a 125v/50amp dock outlet, the
boats wiring would still be limited to drawing no more than 30 amps. A
breaker protects the wiring that is 'downstream (on the boat side) of the
breaker. The dock breaker would protect the power cord and inlet and
interior wiring up to the 30amp main breaker, and the 30amp breaker would
protect the wiring to the boat's individual circuit breakers.
Larry H
Puget Trawler 37 'Jacari Maru'
Cruising the Pacific Northwest
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Kearney" lotusman1951@yahoo.com
To: "Passagemaking Under Power List"
passagemaking-under-power@lists.samurai.com
Sent: Sunday, March 30, 2008 11:25 AM
Subject: Re: [PUP] Power cords 30/50
Scott
Point is that if you are hooked up to a 30amp shore outlet-30amp cord,
50amp house outlet and 30 amp interior wire- how could you over amp? Now
from a liability perspective-IF someone replaced the 30 amp cord (30/50)
with a (50/50) amp cord at a later date there would be a potential
problem-depending on your wire inside the boat. Its like hull
insurance-some people have it and are relaxed if the boat is
lost/damaged,-some people dont and devise safties and backups. Its not
just a question of clean and shine. dock wire, lightning, loose fits are
issues. No one with a new boat is going to do this type of modifacation-
you can always trust in the USCG abdication of saftey build certifacation
to the boatbuilders sic.,anyone who has had a hot cord/outlet issue would
prefer that the issue be decieded anywhere else than on his boat. The
30/50 cord suggestion is safer than a 30/30 cord when the s-it hits the
fan-and it does on boats. Kevin (30 days to launch/repowered) JOLIE
Miles River Yacht Club after 5 years on wait list)
"Scott E. Bulger" scottebulger@gmail.com wrote:
I would not consider placing a 50amp shore power receptacle on the
exterior
of my boat with wire rated at 30amps behind it. If the boat burned in the
future I'd no doubt be liable for violating the wiring specifications.
Perhaps if I retrofitted everything from the receptacle to the inverter
I'd
be ok, but that's more work than keeping the connectors bright and shiny.
This sounds like a case of the cure being worse than the disease. Just my
humble opinion.
Scott
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Yahoo! users and friends.
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Kevin said: Its like hull insurance-some people have it and are relaxed if
the boat is lost/damaged,-some people dont and devise safties and backups.
No, specifications exist to insure you have the right a goesinto that plugs
into the right goesoutta. Putting a 50amp receptacle on wiring that's
specified for 30 is just plain wrong, in my humble opinion.
Scott