Phil makes this seems awfully easy while replacing it in the water is a
frightening task even for the experienced. I've done it more than once and it
still scares me (It's MISTER Pansy-ass to you, Phil.... :) ... of course I get
panicky putting in the knotmeter.). I suggest that, if you've never done it out
of the water either, that you have some experienced hands closeby.  Like
re-packing a stuffing box, your mind might be saying "It's okay, the bilge  pumps
can handle the 80 GPM for good while" but your heart says "WE"RE  SINKING!").

If the thru hull is bronze, you should make certain (okay,as certain as you
can....) that it is well bedded and not in need of replacement also. Also a
lot  of backing blocks are old pieces of plywood which will start to fall apart
at  the first sign of a wrench. If that whole installation is rock solid, only
then  would I try this in the water. Also Phil's suggestion of PB Blaster is
a good  one. You want to keep the thruhull from turning or you'll probably be
looking at  a quick haul anyway. Unless the sealant is pretty new, if you
break the seal and  it leaks through the bedding, it's really doubtful you can
tighten up the nut  and seal it off.

Bill

I might add that if you have a thru-hull with threads sticking up and a ball
valve screwed on top of that, you don't have a proper seacock arrangement.
For one thing, you've probably got taper threads on the ball valve screwed
onto straight threads on the thru-hull fitting, NOT a good connection. There
is no resistance to sideways pressure, and a good whack could break the
whole thing off. If this is what you've got, I'd really suggest replacing it
with a proper seacock. I sure wouldn't try any of this in the water either,
except in an absolute emergency.

Keith

Bend the facts to fit the conclusion. It's easier that way.
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From: WRHNCO@aol.com