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Bob Stewart

Fri, Apr 10, 2015 11:27 PM

This is just a brief report, not a how-to.

I got a KS_24361 with a bad Lucent power module. Having nothing to lose I thought I'd see if it came apart. After unsoldering it from the motherboard, I found the usual potting compound. Fortunately, the compound was only loosely attached to the board in the brick and was easy to pick off. After that, I used a pair of needle-nose pliers to work the board out of the casing. In spite of the pic below, I first gently pried up on the corners, in succession, until the corners released. Then I worked my way toward the middle, until the board came out. Be aware that there are two small inductors on the top side of the board that have metal covers that will probably stay in the potting compound. Just leave them there. When you push it all back together the covers will go back on the inductors.

http://evoria.net/AE6RV/KS/OpenUp.jpg
One corner of the brick was pretty hot while I had it on, so I figured there was a shorted component. As it turned out, it was a 15uF tantalum cap with a big brown spot on it.

http://evoria.net/AE6RV/KS/BadCap.jpg
Here's the cap removed from the board at the upper left.
http://evoria.net/AE6RV/KS/CapRemoved.jpg

So, ordered the cap, put it on the board, then just pushed the pins into the motherboard for testing. I didn't even bother soldering it.
http://evoria.net/AE6RV/KS/Testing.jpg
Tests were good, so I stuffed the board back into the casing, and soldered it all back on the motherboard. I didn't bother repotting the bottom surface of the board. I attached the repaired KS to my good REF-0, and it's now working.
Bob - AE6RV

This is just a brief report, not a how-to. I got a KS_24361 with a bad Lucent power module. Having nothing to lose I thought I'd see if it came apart. After unsoldering it from the motherboard, I found the usual potting compound. Fortunately, the compound was only loosely attached to the board in the brick and was easy to pick off. After that, I used a pair of needle-nose pliers to work the board out of the casing. In spite of the pic below, I first gently pried up on the corners, in succession, until the corners released. Then I worked my way toward the middle, until the board came out. Be aware that there are two small inductors on the top side of the board that have metal covers that will probably stay in the potting compound. Just leave them there. When you push it all back together the covers will go back on the inductors. http://evoria.net/AE6RV/KS/OpenUp.jpg One corner of the brick was pretty hot while I had it on, so I figured there was a shorted component. As it turned out, it was a 15uF tantalum cap with a big brown spot on it. http://evoria.net/AE6RV/KS/BadCap.jpg Here's the cap removed from the board at the upper left. http://evoria.net/AE6RV/KS/CapRemoved.jpg So, ordered the cap, put it on the board, then just pushed the pins into the motherboard for testing. I didn't even bother soldering it. http://evoria.net/AE6RV/KS/Testing.jpg Tests were good, so I stuffed the board back into the casing, and soldered it all back on the motherboard. I didn't bother repotting the bottom surface of the board. I attached the repaired KS to my good REF-0, and it's now working. Bob - AE6RV

CH

Chuck Harris

Sat, Apr 11, 2015 4:52 AM

That is almost a carbon copy description of how I fixed a
similar module in my Ball/Efratom MGPS unit on my GPSRb
unit.

An oven set to 140C is your friend when doing jobs like
this.

The guys that make these modules are trying to make them
as small as possible, so they always use tantalum capacitors,
and run them very close to their ratings... in this case, it
was 18V on a 20V cap.

This particular module had +/- 15V, and +5V on board. I have
never seen so many individual switching power supplies stuffed
into a single module... They were all little 5 terminal IC's,
with each running at whatever frequency it felt like...

-Chuck Harris

Bob Stewart wrote:

This is just a brief report, not a how-to.

I got a KS_24361 with a bad Lucent power module. Having nothing to lose I thought
I'd see if it came apart. After unsoldering it from the motherboard, I found the
usual potting compound. Fortunately, the compound was only loosely attached to
the board in the brick and was easy to pick off. After that, I used a pair of
needle-nose pliers to work the board out of the casing. In spite of the pic
below, I first gently pried up on the corners, in succession, until the corners
released. Then I worked my way toward the middle, until the board came out. Be
aware that there are two small inductors on the top side of the board that have
metal covers that will probably stay in the potting compound. Just leave them
there. When you push it all back together the covers will go back on the
inductors.

http://evoria.net/AE6RV/KS/OpenUp.jpg One corner of the brick was pretty hot while
I had it on, so I figured there was a shorted component. As it turned out, it was
a 15uF tantalum cap with a big brown spot on it.

http://evoria.net/AE6RV/KS/BadCap.jpg Here's the cap removed from the board at the
upper left. http://evoria.net/AE6RV/KS/CapRemoved.jpg

So, ordered the cap, put it on the board, then just pushed the pins into the
motherboard for testing. I didn't even bother soldering it.
http://evoria.net/AE6RV/KS/Testing.jpg Tests were good, so I stuffed the board
back into the casing, and soldered it all back on the motherboard. I didn't
bother repotting the bottom surface of the board. I attached the repaired KS to
my good REF-0, and it's now working. Bob - AE6RV

_______________________________________________ time-nuts mailing list --
time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to
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instructions there.

That is almost a carbon copy description of how I fixed a similar module in my Ball/Efratom MGPS unit on my GPSRb unit. An oven set to 140C is your friend when doing jobs like this. The guys that make these modules are trying to make them as small as possible, so they always use tantalum capacitors, and run them very close to their ratings... in this case, it was 18V on a 20V cap. This particular module had +/- 15V, and +5V on board. I have never seen so many individual switching power supplies stuffed into a single module... They were all little 5 terminal IC's, with each running at whatever frequency it felt like... -Chuck Harris Bob Stewart wrote: > This is just a brief report, not a how-to. > > I got a KS_24361 with a bad Lucent power module. Having nothing to lose I thought > I'd see if it came apart. After unsoldering it from the motherboard, I found the > usual potting compound. Fortunately, the compound was only loosely attached to > the board in the brick and was easy to pick off. After that, I used a pair of > needle-nose pliers to work the board out of the casing. In spite of the pic > below, I first gently pried up on the corners, in succession, until the corners > released. Then I worked my way toward the middle, until the board came out. Be > aware that there are two small inductors on the top side of the board that have > metal covers that will probably stay in the potting compound. Just leave them > there. When you push it all back together the covers will go back on the > inductors. > > http://evoria.net/AE6RV/KS/OpenUp.jpg One corner of the brick was pretty hot while > I had it on, so I figured there was a shorted component. As it turned out, it was > a 15uF tantalum cap with a big brown spot on it. > > http://evoria.net/AE6RV/KS/BadCap.jpg Here's the cap removed from the board at the > upper left. http://evoria.net/AE6RV/KS/CapRemoved.jpg > > So, ordered the cap, put it on the board, then just pushed the pins into the > motherboard for testing. I didn't even bother soldering it. > http://evoria.net/AE6RV/KS/Testing.jpg Tests were good, so I stuffed the board > back into the casing, and soldered it all back on the motherboard. I didn't > bother repotting the bottom surface of the board. I attached the repaired KS to > my good REF-0, and it's now working. Bob - AE6RV > > _______________________________________________ time-nuts mailing list -- > time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to > https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the > instructions there. >

PS

paul swed

Sat, Apr 11, 2015 3:15 PM

Bob
Thanks for the pictures and clues. I have a bad lucent on a hp3801. It was
just 1 of the supplies so I adapted an alternate switcher and it works just
fine.
That said there is hope I can go back in and fix it and also if need be the
ones on the KS units I have. I have sensed there is a flake-y unit on one
of them.
Regards
Paul
WB8TSL

On Sat, Apr 11, 2015 at 12:52 AM, Chuck Harris cfharris@erols.com wrote:

That is almost a carbon copy description of how I fixed a
similar module in my Ball/Efratom MGPS unit on my GPSRb
unit.

An oven set to 140C is your friend when doing jobs like
this.

The guys that make these modules are trying to make them
as small as possible, so they always use tantalum capacitors,
and run them very close to their ratings... in this case, it
was 18V on a 20V cap.

This particular module had +/- 15V, and +5V on board. I have
never seen so many individual switching power supplies stuffed
into a single module... They were all little 5 terminal IC's,
with each running at whatever frequency it felt like...

-Chuck Harris

Bob Stewart wrote:

This is just a brief report, not a how-to.

I got a KS_24361 with a bad Lucent power module. Having nothing to lose
I thought
I'd see if it came apart. After unsoldering it from the motherboard, I
found the
usual potting compound. Fortunately, the compound was only loosely
attached to
the board in the brick and was easy to pick off. After that, I used a
pair of
needle-nose pliers to work the board out of the casing. In spite of the
pic
below, I first gently pried up on the corners, in succession, until the
corners
released. Then I worked my way toward the middle, until the board came
out. Be
aware that there are two small inductors on the top side of the board
that have
metal covers that will probably stay in the potting compound. Just leave
them
there. When you push it all back together the covers will go back on the
inductors.

http://evoria.net/AE6RV/KS/OpenUp.jpg One corner of the brick was pretty
hot while
I had it on, so I figured there was a shorted component. As it turned
out, it was
a 15uF tantalum cap with a big brown spot on it.

http://evoria.net/AE6RV/KS/BadCap.jpg Here's the cap removed from the
board at the
upper left. http://evoria.net/AE6RV/KS/CapRemoved.jpg

So, ordered the cap, put it on the board, then just pushed the pins into
the
motherboard for testing. I didn't even bother soldering it.
http://evoria.net/AE6RV/KS/Testing.jpg Tests were good, so I stuffed the
board
back into the casing, and soldered it all back on the motherboard. I
didn't
bother repotting the bottom surface of the board. I attached the
repaired KS to
my good REF-0, and it's now working. Bob - AE6RV

_______________________________________________ time-nuts mailing list --
time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to
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mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.

Bob Thanks for the pictures and clues. I have a bad lucent on a hp3801. It was just 1 of the supplies so I adapted an alternate switcher and it works just fine. That said there is hope I can go back in and fix it and also if need be the ones on the KS units I have. I have sensed there is a flake-y unit on one of them. Regards Paul WB8TSL On Sat, Apr 11, 2015 at 12:52 AM, Chuck Harris <cfharris@erols.com> wrote: > That is almost a carbon copy description of how I fixed a > similar module in my Ball/Efratom MGPS unit on my GPSRb > unit. > > An oven set to 140C is your friend when doing jobs like > this. > > The guys that make these modules are trying to make them > as small as possible, so they always use tantalum capacitors, > and run them very close to their ratings... in this case, it > was 18V on a 20V cap. > > This particular module had +/- 15V, and +5V on board. I have > never seen so many individual switching power supplies stuffed > into a single module... They were all little 5 terminal IC's, > with each running at whatever frequency it felt like... > > -Chuck Harris > > > > > Bob Stewart wrote: > >> This is just a brief report, not a how-to. >> >> I got a KS_24361 with a bad Lucent power module. Having nothing to lose >> I thought >> I'd see if it came apart. After unsoldering it from the motherboard, I >> found the >> usual potting compound. Fortunately, the compound was only loosely >> attached to >> the board in the brick and was easy to pick off. After that, I used a >> pair of >> needle-nose pliers to work the board out of the casing. In spite of the >> pic >> below, I first gently pried up on the corners, in succession, until the >> corners >> released. Then I worked my way toward the middle, until the board came >> out. Be >> aware that there are two small inductors on the top side of the board >> that have >> metal covers that will probably stay in the potting compound. Just leave >> them >> there. When you push it all back together the covers will go back on the >> inductors. >> >> http://evoria.net/AE6RV/KS/OpenUp.jpg One corner of the brick was pretty >> hot while >> I had it on, so I figured there was a shorted component. As it turned >> out, it was >> a 15uF tantalum cap with a big brown spot on it. >> >> http://evoria.net/AE6RV/KS/BadCap.jpg Here's the cap removed from the >> board at the >> upper left. http://evoria.net/AE6RV/KS/CapRemoved.jpg >> >> So, ordered the cap, put it on the board, then just pushed the pins into >> the >> motherboard for testing. I didn't even bother soldering it. >> http://evoria.net/AE6RV/KS/Testing.jpg Tests were good, so I stuffed the >> board >> back into the casing, and soldered it all back on the motherboard. I >> didn't >> bother repotting the bottom surface of the board. I attached the >> repaired KS to >> my good REF-0, and it's now working. Bob - AE6RV >> >> _______________________________________________ time-nuts mailing list -- >> time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to >> https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the >> instructions there. >> >> _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/ > mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > and follow the instructions there. >

DR

Dan Rae

Sat, Apr 11, 2015 3:18 PM

On 4/10/2015 4:27 PM, Bob Stewart wrote:

This is just a brief report, not a how-to.

I got a KS_24361 with a bad Lucent power module.

Thanks a lot for that report Bob, I had no idea that it was possible to
un-encapsulate those and get at the insides. I have one here that came
to me dead, and I knew it had a shorted tantalum on the -15V output
since I could see that from resistance checks. Chuck's tip about using
an oven came too late for me, but after quite a struggle I opened mine
up last night and found the culprit cap. No visible damage to it since
the short must have shut the supply down.

It now does power up and time will tell if I eventually get a green
light :^)

Dan - ac6ao

On 4/10/2015 4:27 PM, Bob Stewart wrote: > This is just a brief report, not a how-to. > > I got a KS_24361 with a bad Lucent power module. Thanks a lot for that report Bob, I had no idea that it was possible to un-encapsulate those and get at the insides. I have one here that came to me dead, and I knew it had a shorted tantalum on the -15V output since I could see that from resistance checks. Chuck's tip about using an oven came too late for me, but after quite a struggle I opened mine up last night and found the culprit cap. No visible damage to it since the short must have shut the supply down. It now does power up and time will tell if I eventually get a green light :^) Dan - ac6ao

BC

Bob Camp

Sat, Apr 11, 2015 3:31 PM

Hi

I’ve seen the same failure on Efratom LPRO Rb’s on the input bypass cap.

It’s a pretty common failure in general. Tantalum’s don’t really like very high surge
currents / rapid voltage ramps. In normal bypass applications, restricting current
surge / voltage ramps may be a bit tough on the power input side of a system.

Bob

On Apr 11, 2015, at 12:52 AM, Chuck Harris cfharris@erols.com wrote:

That is almost a carbon copy description of how I fixed a
similar module in my Ball/Efratom MGPS unit on my GPSRb
unit.

An oven set to 140C is your friend when doing jobs like
this.

The guys that make these modules are trying to make them
as small as possible, so they always use tantalum capacitors,
and run them very close to their ratings... in this case, it
was 18V on a 20V cap.

This particular module had +/- 15V, and +5V on board. I have
never seen so many individual switching power supplies stuffed
into a single module... They were all little 5 terminal IC's,
with each running at whatever frequency it felt like...

-Chuck Harris

Bob Stewart wrote:

This is just a brief report, not a how-to.

I got a KS_24361 with a bad Lucent power module. Having nothing to lose I thought
I'd see if it came apart. After unsoldering it from the motherboard, I found the
usual potting compound. Fortunately, the compound was only loosely attached to
the board in the brick and was easy to pick off. After that, I used a pair of
needle-nose pliers to work the board out of the casing. In spite of the pic
below, I first gently pried up on the corners, in succession, until the corners
released. Then I worked my way toward the middle, until the board came out. Be
aware that there are two small inductors on the top side of the board that have
metal covers that will probably stay in the potting compound. Just leave them
there. When you push it all back together the covers will go back on the
inductors.

http://evoria.net/AE6RV/KS/OpenUp.jpg One corner of the brick was pretty hot while
I had it on, so I figured there was a shorted component. As it turned out, it was
a 15uF tantalum cap with a big brown spot on it.

http://evoria.net/AE6RV/KS/BadCap.jpg Here's the cap removed from the board at the
upper left. http://evoria.net/AE6RV/KS/CapRemoved.jpg

So, ordered the cap, put it on the board, then just pushed the pins into the
motherboard for testing. I didn't even bother soldering it.
http://evoria.net/AE6RV/KS/Testing.jpg Tests were good, so I stuffed the board
back into the casing, and soldered it all back on the motherboard. I didn't
bother repotting the bottom surface of the board. I attached the repaired KS to
my good REF-0, and it's now working. Bob - AE6RV

_______________________________________________ time-nuts mailing list --
time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to
https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the
instructions there.

time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.

Hi I’ve seen the same failure on Efratom LPRO Rb’s on the input bypass cap. It’s a pretty common failure in general. Tantalum’s don’t really like very high surge currents / rapid voltage ramps. In normal bypass applications, restricting current surge / voltage ramps may be a bit tough on the power input side of a system. Bob > On Apr 11, 2015, at 12:52 AM, Chuck Harris <cfharris@erols.com> wrote: > > That is almost a carbon copy description of how I fixed a > similar module in my Ball/Efratom MGPS unit on my GPSRb > unit. > > An oven set to 140C is your friend when doing jobs like > this. > > The guys that make these modules are trying to make them > as small as possible, so they always use tantalum capacitors, > and run them very close to their ratings... in this case, it > was 18V on a 20V cap. > > This particular module had +/- 15V, and +5V on board. I have > never seen so many individual switching power supplies stuffed > into a single module... They were all little 5 terminal IC's, > with each running at whatever frequency it felt like... > > -Chuck Harris > > > > Bob Stewart wrote: >> This is just a brief report, not a how-to. >> >> I got a KS_24361 with a bad Lucent power module. Having nothing to lose I thought >> I'd see if it came apart. After unsoldering it from the motherboard, I found the >> usual potting compound. Fortunately, the compound was only loosely attached to >> the board in the brick and was easy to pick off. After that, I used a pair of >> needle-nose pliers to work the board out of the casing. In spite of the pic >> below, I first gently pried up on the corners, in succession, until the corners >> released. Then I worked my way toward the middle, until the board came out. Be >> aware that there are two small inductors on the top side of the board that have >> metal covers that will probably stay in the potting compound. Just leave them >> there. When you push it all back together the covers will go back on the >> inductors. >> >> http://evoria.net/AE6RV/KS/OpenUp.jpg One corner of the brick was pretty hot while >> I had it on, so I figured there was a shorted component. As it turned out, it was >> a 15uF tantalum cap with a big brown spot on it. >> >> http://evoria.net/AE6RV/KS/BadCap.jpg Here's the cap removed from the board at the >> upper left. http://evoria.net/AE6RV/KS/CapRemoved.jpg >> >> So, ordered the cap, put it on the board, then just pushed the pins into the >> motherboard for testing. I didn't even bother soldering it. >> http://evoria.net/AE6RV/KS/Testing.jpg Tests were good, so I stuffed the board >> back into the casing, and soldered it all back on the motherboard. I didn't >> bother repotting the bottom surface of the board. I attached the repaired KS to >> my good REF-0, and it's now working. Bob - AE6RV >> >> _______________________________________________ time-nuts mailing list -- >> time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to >> https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the >> instructions there. >> > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > and follow the instructions there.

DR

Doug Ronald

Sat, Apr 11, 2015 5:38 PM

Yes, and for those hams amongst us TN's, these switchers produce copious amounts of RFI all over the HF bands. I replaced my DC/DC converters with external linears, to stop the pollution.
-Doug W6DSR

This particular module had +/- 15V, and +5V on board. I have never seen so many individual switching
power supplies stuffed into a single module... They were all little 5 terminal IC's,
with each running at whatever frequency it felt like...

-----Original Message-----
From: time-nuts [mailto:time-nuts-bounces@febo.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Harris
Sent: Friday, April 10, 2015 9:52 PM
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] KS-24361 Power Module Repair

That is almost a carbon copy description of how I fixed a similar module in my Ball/Efratom MGPS unit on my GPSRb unit.

An oven set to 140C is your friend when doing jobs like this.

The guys that make these modules are trying to make them as small as possible, so they always use tantalum capacitors, and run them very close to their ratings... in this case, it was 18V on a 20V cap.

This particular module had +/- 15V, and +5V on board. I have never seen so many individual switching power supplies stuffed into a single module... They were all little 5 terminal IC's, with each running at whatever frequency it felt like...

-Chuck Harris

Bob Stewart wrote:

This is just a brief report, not a how-to.

I got a KS_24361 with a bad Lucent power module. Having nothing to
lose I thought I'd see if it came apart. After unsoldering it from
the motherboard, I found the usual potting compound. Fortunately, the
compound was only loosely attached to the board in the brick and was
easy to pick off. After that, I used a pair of needle-nose pliers to
work the board out of the casing. In spite of the pic below, I first
gently pried up on the corners, in succession, until the corners
released. Then I worked my way toward the middle, until the board
came out. Be aware that there are two small inductors on the top side
of the board that have metal covers that will probably stay in the
potting compound. Just leave them there. When you push it all back together the covers will go back on the inductors.

http://evoria.net/AE6RV/KS/OpenUp.jpg One corner of the brick was
pretty hot while I had it on, so I figured there was a shorted
component. As it turned out, it was a 15uF tantalum cap with a big brown spot on it.

http://evoria.net/AE6RV/KS/BadCap.jpg Here's the cap removed from the
board at the upper left. http://evoria.net/AE6RV/KS/CapRemoved.jpg

So, ordered the cap, put it on the board, then just pushed the pins
into the motherboard for testing. I didn't even bother soldering it.
http://evoria.net/AE6RV/KS/Testing.jpg Tests were good, so I stuffed
the board back into the casing, and soldered it all back on the
motherboard. I didn't bother repotting the bottom surface of the
board. I attached the repaired KS to my good REF-0, and it's now
working. Bob - AE6RV

_______________________________________________ time-nuts mailing list
-- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to
https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the
instructions there.

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and follow the instructions there.

Yes, and for those hams amongst us TN's, these switchers produce copious amounts of RFI all over the HF bands. I replaced my DC/DC converters with external linears, to stop the pollution. -Doug W6DSR >This particular module had +/- 15V, and +5V on board. I have never seen so many individual switching > power supplies stuffed into a single module... They were all little 5 terminal IC's, > with each running at whatever frequency it felt like... -----Original Message----- From: time-nuts [mailto:time-nuts-bounces@febo.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Harris Sent: Friday, April 10, 2015 9:52 PM To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement Subject: Re: [time-nuts] KS-24361 Power Module Repair That is almost a carbon copy description of how I fixed a similar module in my Ball/Efratom MGPS unit on my GPSRb unit. An oven set to 140C is your friend when doing jobs like this. The guys that make these modules are trying to make them as small as possible, so they always use tantalum capacitors, and run them very close to their ratings... in this case, it was 18V on a 20V cap. This particular module had +/- 15V, and +5V on board. I have never seen so many individual switching power supplies stuffed into a single module... They were all little 5 terminal IC's, with each running at whatever frequency it felt like... -Chuck Harris Bob Stewart wrote: > This is just a brief report, not a how-to. > > I got a KS_24361 with a bad Lucent power module. Having nothing to > lose I thought I'd see if it came apart. After unsoldering it from > the motherboard, I found the usual potting compound. Fortunately, the > compound was only loosely attached to the board in the brick and was > easy to pick off. After that, I used a pair of needle-nose pliers to > work the board out of the casing. In spite of the pic below, I first > gently pried up on the corners, in succession, until the corners > released. Then I worked my way toward the middle, until the board > came out. Be aware that there are two small inductors on the top side > of the board that have metal covers that will probably stay in the > potting compound. Just leave them there. When you push it all back together the covers will go back on the inductors. > > http://evoria.net/AE6RV/KS/OpenUp.jpg One corner of the brick was > pretty hot while I had it on, so I figured there was a shorted > component. As it turned out, it was a 15uF tantalum cap with a big brown spot on it. > > http://evoria.net/AE6RV/KS/BadCap.jpg Here's the cap removed from the > board at the upper left. http://evoria.net/AE6RV/KS/CapRemoved.jpg > > So, ordered the cap, put it on the board, then just pushed the pins > into the motherboard for testing. I didn't even bother soldering it. > http://evoria.net/AE6RV/KS/Testing.jpg Tests were good, so I stuffed > the board back into the casing, and soldered it all back on the > motherboard. I didn't bother repotting the bottom surface of the > board. I attached the repaired KS to my good REF-0, and it's now > working. Bob - AE6RV > > _______________________________________________ time-nuts mailing list > -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to > https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the > instructions there. > _______________________________________________ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts and follow the instructions there.

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KS-24361 Power Module Repair