Phil,
Bill is spot on with pricing. One of the factors I went with
Keypower was total system integration.
At the time they offered the get home drive, stabilizers, a hydraulic
alternator, hydraulic thrusters and a hydraulic bilge pump.
I wanted to try and alleviate cross brands coordinating the hydraulic
design and who would take the lead. I ended up with one manufacturer
who took total ownership.
Regarding trans run times. Twin Disc told me, officially, to run 8
hours and to fill the trans full of oil then drain to a full level.
Unofficially they said given the slow RPM they said it would go a "long"
time.
I have a reverso system for a lot of applications so I thought I could
easily fill and drain while underway if I were inclined to.
Downsides: Marginal speed/power for a long term solution. My system
was designed to go indefinitely.
Advantages: Little additional system maintenance. I delivered, 3000
miles, another boat with a wing engine and found that the yaw in the
boat, with an offset wing engine, was more than the autopilot could
overcome. This was a deciding factor for me in my order process. Other
owners of the same brand size did not experience the same effect.
This discussion has come up several times to the list but I am very
happy with my solution and have had no regrets.
* I have a hard enough time keeping up with cleaning my bottom and
thrusters in the tropics let alone another prop to take care of.
Les Dobbe
"Voyager" Selene5334
Those of you who are driving the main shaft using a hydraulic motor:
What are the down sides to pushing the main shaft with the
transmission in neutral? Can this be done indefinitely without
damage? Is there a ball park cost figure for adding one of these
clamp-on drive units?
Phil Eslinger
Flat Earth N50
We have a Twin Disc transmission that will run for several days in neutral
without a problem. That said, we have installed a trailing pump that
circulates the transmission oil while the get home drive is engaged. This
allows continuous operation.
The complete drive installation was in excess of $30,000.00+ because we had an
early model from a previous manufacturer that subsequently sold the rights to
Wesmar. We had to do a lot of extra machining and hydraulic work to make the
drive engagement operational from a remote location and we also machined new
NiAl Bronze engagement cog rings to replace the Aluminum cogs that came with
the unit. I am not sure, but I think you can install the new improved drive
from Wesmar for $20,000 or less depending on the size of the unit. Les Dobbe
stated that Keypower has eliminated the need for cutting the main shaft (the
main reason we did not go with Keypower) and that makes the Keypower unit a
good option too in my opinion. I am not completely sure, but I think both the
Keypower and Wesmar units are priced similarly.
Bill Bahlburg
Porosity Selene5903
The "official" and "unofficial" comments from Twin Disc on free-
wheeling the main shaft while a wing engine powers the boat (or
driving shaft via a hydraulic engine) when the main is down are the
same as I got from ZF relative to their transmissions. Basically, top
up the oil and it should be OK.
ZF's big caution was not to forget that you'd overfilled the oil when
you were able to restart the main. Apparently powering the tranny via
main while it has a gross oil overfill causes problems.
As far as yaw from the wing engine, we have found that to be of little
consequence when underway. In fact, we use the wing all the time as a
trolling engine, running at about 2 knots. Whether trolling or using
it to cruise boat at 5 knot range, it takes about 8-10 degrees of
rudder to compensate for yaw. I've given my autopilot 20 degrees of
authority, and would give it more if I was running in significant seas
using the wing engine. Default rudder authority on many autopilot
installations is about 12 degrees, which would have resulted in the
issue that Les spoke of. But that's an easy problem to tweak away.
My wing engine is a 70hp and it runs my boat at 5+ knots in flat
water. That's about the minimum for my size boat (130,000 pounds).
One of the big advantages of a wing with separate shaft is that you
can foul a main prop and/or damage the wheel, not to mention suffering
a catastrophic transmission failure that could force you to lash main
shaft immobile. On my boat, the folding wing prop is located quite a
ways forward of the main, so a tangled, trailing line is unlikely to
foul it as long as I'm going forward. Also, since the prop folds, it
has a better chance of releasing a line or extensive bull kelp that
did get around it. I would hazard a guess that many more boats lose
their mains temporarily due to fouling than due to engine failure, and
there are conditions where going into the water to cut away line isn't
an option (night, heavy weather, etc.). At the minimum, the wing prop
lets you maintain control of the boat and hold a comfortable position
relative to the waves until you can get into the water and free main--
or get help to do it.
Also, when we are entering truly hairy waters (tidal rapids, etc) with
the rocks very close, I sometimes have the wing running and warmed up
and ready to give me steerageway if something happened to the main.
Otherwise, you could be on the rocks in a couple of minutes. And with
the offset position, it also gives you a measure of "twin engine"
turning ability if something happened to rudder. In other words,
between forward and reverse, you could put that "yaw" issue to work
for you.
So as you can tell, I'm a big fan of offset wing engines with "sacred"
separate fuel supplies, batteries, shaft, prop, etc. and the
flexibility that comes with all that. Some owners add additional
alternators and hydraulic pumps to wing as well, given we might as
well put that little diesel (mine is a Lugger, so its built to be
used) to work.
John Marshall
N5520-Serendipity
On Sep 13, 2009, at 8:49 AM, Les Dobbe wrote:
Phil,
Bill is spot on with pricing. One of the factors I went with
Keypower was total system integration.
At the time they offered the get home drive, stabilizers, a
hydraulic alternator, hydraulic thrusters and a hydraulic bilge pump.
I wanted to try and alleviate cross brands coordinating the
hydraulic design and who would take the lead. I ended up with one
manufacturer who took total ownership.
Regarding trans run times. Twin Disc told me, officially, to run
8 hours and to fill the trans full of oil then drain to a full
level. Unofficially they said given the slow RPM they said it would
go a "long" time.
I have a reverso system for a lot of applications so I thought I
could easily fill and drain while underway if I were inclined to.
Downsides: Marginal speed/power for a long term solution. My
system was designed to go indefinitely. Advantages: Little
additional system maintenance. I delivered, 3000 miles, another
boat with a wing engine and found that the yaw in the boat, with an
offset wing engine, was more than the autopilot could overcome. This
was a deciding factor for me in my order process. Other owners of
the same brand size did not experience the same effect.
This discussion has come up several times to the list but I am
very happy with my solution and have had no regrets.
Those of you who are driving the main shaft using a hydraulic
motor: What are the down sides to pushing the main shaft with
the transmission in neutral? Can this be done indefinitely
without damage? Is there a ball park cost figure for adding one
of these clamp-on drive units?
Phil Eslinger
Flat Earth N50
We have a Twin Disc transmission that will run for several days in
neutral
without a problem. That said, we have installed a trailing pump that
circulates the transmission oil while the get home drive is
engaged. This
allows continuous operation.
The complete drive installation was in excess of $30,000.00+
because we had an
early model from a previous manufacturer that subsequently sold the
rights to
Wesmar. We had to do a lot of extra machining and hydraulic work
to make the
drive engagement operational from a remote location and we also
machined new
NiAl Bronze engagement cog rings to replace the Aluminum cogs that
came with
the unit. I am not sure, but I think you can install the new
improved drive
from Wesmar for $20,000 or less depending on the size of the unit.
Les Dobbe
stated that Keypower has eliminated the need for cutting the main
shaft (the
main reason we did not go with Keypower) and that makes the
Keypower unit a
good option too in my opinion. I am not completely sure, but I
think both the
Keypower and Wesmar units are priced similarly.
Bill Bahlburg
Porosity Selene5903
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