What Keith Christianson describes (layers of mat and roving, with glass on top laminated with polyester resin) is effectively making another deck or hull protion. The polyester adheres fairly well to other polyester surfaces, but not as well as epoxy. Polyester does not adhere well to teak, no matter how well it is prepared. Epoxy does not work well with mat and roving, but does work well with glass which has sizing for epoxy. There is a real quality difference in teak decks--and substructures. Some boats have great decks and never leak or delaminate. Others seem to start at the beginning and go downhill. Also if you are in an area with freezing weather and some water gets in grooves along side the polysulfide there will be slow delmaination from the polyester and teak. Also remember that many boats were built with inferior one part polysulfide vs a high quality two part polysulfide. The substrate may be molded fiberglass with a cored deck (balsa or closed cell foam)--or plywood (in some cases squares of what I refer to as "mystery wood" which is covered with a single layer of glass--or even no glass at all! One of the more difficult parts of any fiberglass/epoxy lamination covering is fairing the finished surface to perfect level smooth surface. Many times inferior products are used here because they are quick and easy and in a few years they will begin to crack. Another covering material not mentioned in this thread is Treadmaster or other cork composition coverings--or PVC teak simulated products. Plasteak, Flexiteek, Trex, and Marinedeck are other synthetics.. One of the list members was experimenting with some of these products may enlighten us. None of these techiniques are not without a lot of work! Bob Austin