Greg,
Yes, adhesive lined heat-shrink tubing is different from the regular stuff,
and substantially more expensive. If it doesn't say adhesive-lined in the
ad or on the package, it isn't.
And I just noticed crimping tools on www.genuinedealz.com. The hammer-anvil
type is $30, and the long-handled compound type (like mine) $231. Both
tools cover from #6 to #4/0, with the expensive one also covering 250MCM (a
size larger than #4/0).
As to the size of your battery cables, it all depends. We'd need to know
the total run length (from battery to switches to starter motor and back to
the battery negative terminal), and the starter motor current, or at least
the approximate engine size and make. Some boats have very long cable runs
because of the battery switch location (like yours, it sounds like).
Sometimes the switch can be relocated to shorten the runs while still being
accessible in an emergency.
Mark Richter, "Winnie the Pooh", Ortona, FL on the Okeechbee Waterway
Mark's Mobile Marine
General boat repairs at my dock or yours
Specializing in electrical system design, installation and repair
----- Original Message -----
That settles it!! I too have always thought that soldering would be the
better way to go. Now I get to buy a crimper. I have a hand
stripper/crimper like most of us to that handles up to #10 wire. I'm not
there but I believe that the largest wire I have on my boat is 2/0. Those
are about 20' long and run from the location of the 8D house batteries to
the selector switch at the main panel near the helm. Does that size sound
about right?
So, I need a manageable crimper with die sets up to the largest size I
have
on my boat and some other sizes down to #8. Can all those be found to fit
one tool?
I have also used heat shrink tubing on most of my work but just off the
shelf at the big box or Radio Shack. You guys are mentioning "adhesive"
heat shrink. Is that different? Do I need to go to the electrical supply
store?
Greg,
Yes, adhesive lined heat-shrink tubing is different from the regular stuff,
and substantially more expensive. If it doesn't say adhesive-lined in the
ad or on the package, it isn't.
And I just noticed crimping tools on www.genuinedealz.com. The hammer-anvil
type is $30, and the long-handled compound type (like mine) $231. Both
tools cover from #6 to #4/0, with the expensive one also covering 250MCM (a
size larger than #4/0).
As to the size of your battery cables, it all depends. We'd need to know
the total run length (from battery to switches to starter motor and back to
the battery negative terminal), and the starter motor current, or at least
the approximate engine size and make. Some boats have very long cable runs
because of the battery switch location (like yours, it sounds like).
Sometimes the switch can be relocated to shorten the runs while still being
accessible in an emergency.
Mark Richter, "Winnie the Pooh", Ortona, FL on the Okeechbee Waterway
Mark's Mobile Marine
General boat repairs at my dock or yours
Specializing in electrical system design, installation and repair
----- Original Message -----
> That settles it!! I too have always thought that soldering would be the
> better way to go. Now I get to buy a crimper. I have a hand
> stripper/crimper like most of us to that handles up to #10 wire. I'm not
> there but I believe that the largest wire I have on my boat is 2/0. Those
> are about 20' long and run from the location of the 8D house batteries to
> the selector switch at the main panel near the helm. Does that size sound
> about right?
>
> So, I need a manageable crimper with die sets up to the largest size I
> have
> on my boat and some other sizes down to #8. Can all those be found to fit
> one tool?
>
> I have also used heat shrink tubing on most of my work but just off the
> shelf at the big box or Radio Shack. You guys are mentioning "adhesive"
> heat shrink. Is that different? Do I need to go to the electrical supply
> store?
