Replumbing holding tank
I'm faced with dealing with the fact that both the pumpout and macerator
lines on Sanderling's holding tank is connected at the midpoint in the
height of the tank; in essence, only half of the tank is available for sewage.
There is a deck plate over the top of the tank that allows access to the top
of the tank where I can install a 4-inch inspection port in order to remove
the contents of the bottom 1/2 of the tank, and then clean it out. From that
location I could also reach (through the inside of the tank) the side where
the pumpout/macerator lines are located. There is enough room outside the
tank on that side to drill another hole to reposition the pumpout line at
the bottom of the tank.
The question is: what can I use to fasten the inspection port and a
thru-hull (or something similar) in such a way that it will be secure and
not leak, and what should I use for the fitting to which the pumpout line
will attach?
The tank is made of a gray plastic material. The current pumpout port looks
like it is "glued" in place - very solid - definitely not the screw-in type
of port found on modern plastic holding tanks.
I'd appreciate hearing from anyone who has a suggestion about what materials
to use for the "thru hull" and the caulk/glue to hold it in place.
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Bob McLeran and Judy Young Manatee Cove Marina
M/V Sanderling Patrick Air Force Base
Hampton 35 Trawler Melbourne, Florida
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob McLeran" rmcleran@ix.netcom.com
I'm faced with dealing with the fact that both the pumpout and macerator
lines on Sanderling's holding tank is connected at the midpoint in the
height of the tank; in essence, only half of the tank is available for
sewage. (endsnip)
Hi Bob!
First, have you been able to look inside the tank to see if these
connections have an L on the inside to direct the suction down to the bottom
of the tank? I find it very odd that anyone would have installed a pumpout
connection in the center of the tank like yours appears to be where it would
never be able to empty more than half the tank.
Secondly, I understand that the flange is glued to the side of the tank, but
is the actual hose connection screwed into this flange where you could
remove it and fashion your own L shape pickup to accesss the bottom of the
tank through the existing flange?
If all else fails, instead of drilling a hole and attaching a new flange at
the botttom of the tank where a leak would be a very bad thing, I suggest
you do this from the top of the tank and install what I think they call a
"standpipe". It is just a length of PVC pipe with the end cut at an angle
and ending very close to the bottom of the tank. That way, if your flange
connection does leak, the leak is at the top of the tank and not at the
bottom. I have installed several of the new plastic tanks and this is how
the "big boys" do it. All flange/connections are done through the top of the
tank.
Brent Hodges
M/V Frienship
43 Albin Sundeck
Ardmore, Ok / Seabrook, Tx.
Perhaps the simplest solution would be to add both a discharge port and a
pump-out port with pipe to the bottom of the tank in the cover plate at the
inspection port. Fill from the top and suck out at the bottom and no new
holes while maintaining the inspection port.
Good luck,
Bob Lowe
www.MV-Dreamer.com
www.CruisingAndMaintainingYourBoat.com
I'm faced with dealing with the fact that both the pumpout and macerator
lines on Sanderling's holding tank is connected at the midpoint in the
height of the tank; in essence, only half of the tank is available for
sewage.
There is a deck plate over the top of the tank that allows access to the top
of the tank where I can install a 4-inch inspection port in order to remove
the contents of the bottom 1/2 of the tank, and then clean it out. From that
location I could also reach (through the inside of the tank) the side where
the pumpout/macerator lines are located. There is enough room outside the
tank on that side to drill another hole to reposition the pumpout line at
the bottom of the tank.
The question is: what can I use to fasten the inspection port and a
thru-hull (or something similar) in such a way that it will be secure and
not leak, and what should I use for the fitting to which the pumpout line
will attach?
The tank is made of a gray plastic material. The current pumpout port looks
like it is "glued" in place - very solid - definitely not the screw-in type
of port found on modern plastic holding tanks.
I'd appreciate hearing from anyone who has a suggestion about what materials
to use for the "thru hull" and the caulk/glue to hold it in place.
Bob McLeran and Judy