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replacement fuel tank leak

BE
bob england
Sat, Jun 17, 2006 2:20 PM

If I were you, I would tell the yard that I had the utmost confidence in
there ability to fix this problem correctly at no expense to me. As far as I
know the only CORRECT fix is to pull the tank, cut out the offending fixture
and replace it, period. Any number of quick and easy fixes will work but
this is the recognized "right" way and if they are really a good yard there
won't be any discussion about alternatives. That's one of the perks of
dealing with reputable yards, there reputation is always on the line and
they want to keep it good. Just give them the insentive to do the job to
your satisfaction. If you are satisfied with an easy fix, that's ok to, but
these guys know what to do to make it right.

If I were you, I would tell the yard that I had the utmost confidence in there ability to fix this problem correctly at no expense to me. As far as I know the only CORRECT fix is to pull the tank, cut out the offending fixture and replace it, period. Any number of quick and easy fixes will work but this is the recognized "right" way and if they are really a good yard there won't be any discussion about alternatives. That's one of the perks of dealing with reputable yards, there reputation is always on the line and they want to keep it good. Just give them the insentive to do the job to your satisfaction. If you are satisfied with an easy fix, that's ok to, but these guys know what to do to make it right.
BM
Bob McLeran
Sat, Jun 17, 2006 2:40 PM

And that's what they're going to do. I drove over to the yard first
thing this morning and talked with the yard manager and the two workers
while they were having their morning work conference. I presented them
with some of the constructive alternatives provided by listees in
response to my posting yesterday. The most likely, IMHO, was to machine
down an over sized male fitting to match the threads in the bung. The
yard manager said it would be nearly impossible to get it the right size
and thread gage.

Whole thing has been discussed with the fabricator. Replacing the bung
on the boat is out of the question because of the high heat involved in
"welding" aluminum, according to the fabricator and the yard manager.

Only viable option is to remove the new tank, and have the bung replaced
with one with the proper threads. There's no other alternative that
would guarantee it wouldn't be a problem 6 months or a year down the
waterway. The engine is coming out today to allow them to get to the tank.

I agree with them.

If the fitting were on the fill tube or at the very top of the tank I
might be inclined to argue for a JB Weld fix, but this one is at the
very bottom of the tank where the cross-tank line connects.

Not discussing responsibility with anyone until I'm out of the yard!
<><><><><><><><><><><><><><>Mozilla Thunderbird<><><><><><><><><><><><>
Bob McLeran and Judy Young                      Manatee Cove Marina
M/V Sanderling                                  Patrick Air Force Base
Hampton 35 Trawler                              Melbourne, Florida

On 6/17/2006 11:20 AM, bob england wrote:

If I were you, I would tell the yard that I had the utmost confidence in
there ability to fix this problem correctly at no expense to me. As far as I
know the only CORRECT fix is to pull the tank, cut out the offending fixture
and replace it, period. Any number of quick and easy fixes will work but
this is the recognized "right" way and if they are really a good yard there
won't be any discussion about alternatives. That's one of the perks of
dealing with reputable yards, there reputation is always on the line and
they want to keep it good. Just give them the insentive to do the job to
your satisfaction. If you are satisfied with an easy fix, that's ok to, but
these guys know what to do to make it right.

And that's what they're going to do. I drove over to the yard first thing this morning and talked with the yard manager and the two workers while they were having their morning work conference. I presented them with some of the constructive alternatives provided by listees in response to my posting yesterday. The most likely, IMHO, was to machine down an over sized male fitting to match the threads in the bung. The yard manager said it would be nearly impossible to get it the right size and thread gage. Whole thing has been discussed with the fabricator. Replacing the bung on the boat is out of the question because of the high heat involved in "welding" aluminum, according to the fabricator and the yard manager. Only viable option is to remove the new tank, and have the bung replaced with one with the proper threads. There's no other alternative that would guarantee it wouldn't be a problem 6 months or a year down the waterway. The engine is coming out today to allow them to get to the tank. I agree with them. If the fitting were on the fill tube or at the very top of the tank I might be inclined to argue for a JB Weld fix, but this one is at the very bottom of the tank where the cross-tank line connects. Not discussing responsibility with anyone until I'm out of the yard! <><><><><><><><><><><><><><>Mozilla Thunderbird<><><><><><><><><><><><> Bob McLeran and Judy Young Manatee Cove Marina M/V Sanderling Patrick Air Force Base Hampton 35 Trawler Melbourne, Florida On 6/17/2006 11:20 AM, bob england wrote: > If I were you, I would tell the yard that I had the utmost confidence in > there ability to fix this problem correctly at no expense to me. As far as I > know the only CORRECT fix is to pull the tank, cut out the offending fixture > and replace it, period. Any number of quick and easy fixes will work but > this is the recognized "right" way and if they are really a good yard there > won't be any discussion about alternatives. That's one of the perks of > dealing with reputable yards, there reputation is always on the line and > they want to keep it good. Just give them the insentive to do the job to > your satisfaction. If you are satisfied with an easy fix, that's ok to, but > these guys know what to do to make it right.