Thank God, you're all saying :-)  I've received a LOT of e-mails
chastising me for spending money to do a job I could do myself.  Some
have been polite suggestions that I should consider trying it myself,
some have been the "you're a real dumb-ass" variety.

I received a nice and thoughtful comment this morning from a lister, and
after writing my reply I thought perhaps what I said might be helpful to
another newbie like me trying to decide between doing a job themselves
or hiring the work out to a pro.  So for what it's worth, I've attached
my reply here, and I promise I won't bring up the subject again on the
list.  At least not for awhile :-)

MY REPLY:  Thanks for your note.  Since the mechanics can do the job,
I'm sure I could figure out how to do the job.  The key is "figure out."
The engine room on our GB36 is pretty cramped with two Lehmans and an
Onan in it.  People have said, "Just use a bottle jack and stick some
timbers under the engine when you jack up each corner."  Well, where do
you put the jack so it doesn't punch through the bottom of the boat,
where do you stick the timbers (there's nowhere obvious I can see), what
do I do if one of the mount securing bolts is seized?  And so on.

I've had a few people in my marina tell me the "just do it yourself"
thing, and when I've asked them to explain how, they've come to the boat
and said, "Hm, there's nowhere easy to put the jack, is there, so you'll
have to fabricate a thing to set it on and lift the corner with."  I
say, "Okay, so I do that and lift a corner of the engine.  Now where to
I put the timbers to support it while I do the work?"  They say, "Hm,
there's really nowhere convenient to stick a timber, is there.  I guess
you'll have to fabricate a support that spans the engine stringers and
goes under the engine somehow."  Somehow-- I like that part.

I've removed engines from vehicles, and with the right tools and with
nothing going wrong, it's pretty easy.  The procedure to replace the
mounts on the Lehmans is incredibly simple, much easier than some of the
vehicles I've worked on, but that's not the issue.  The issue is
actually doing it, figuring out how to position the jack and support the
engine and all that.  The shop can do it with their eyes closed just
about, but even for them it takes a lot of time to maneuver things
around in the engine room.  But at least they're not starting at the
bottom of the learning curve.

So weighing the pros and cons--- If I do it, I save $3,000-$5,000.  I
also run the risk of damaging or breaking something.  I may run into a
problem I need to call a professional in for anyway, like an unexpected
seized bolt .  If I do it wrong, I've got no recourse but to do it over
or call a pro in to do it right.  It's going to take me a lot of time to
do with two engines in a cramped space.  I know how to align an engine,
but I've never done it, so it's going to take me a long time of trial
and error to get it right.  Times two.  I'm at the bottom of the
learning curve.

If the shop does it, I'm out $3,000-$5,000.  But they know how to do it,
and so will get it right the first time.  Their work comes with a
warranty, so if problems arise later, I have recourse to get it fixed at
no cost.  They know how to deal with all the unexpected stuff that can
come up because they deal with it every day.  They have all the tools
and know all the tricks.  I want the job done in two days between
weekends when we use the boat, and they can do it in two days.  They're
at the top of the learning curve.

So adding all that up and rolling in the value of my time to me, it
makes a lot more sense to me and my wife to have the shop do it than for
me to do it, even though I'm well aware I could do it..... eventually.

I had the shop service our engines the first two times they needed it.
I watched and read the engine manuals and now I do it all myself in
terms of changing oil, filters, bleeding the lines, etc.  But these are
jobs that need doing on a regular basis, every 50 hours on the Simms
pumps and 100 hours on the engines ( my interval, not the manual's).
Doing it myself saves me at least $500 in labor costs every time.  But
we're probably going to change engine mounts just this one time, even if
we own the boat for twenty more years.  So I don't see much value in
risking all the cons on the do-it-yourself list when I'm never going to
have to do it again.  The one-time cost to get it done fast and right
seems worth it to us.  It may not to someone else.

C. Marin Faure
GB36-403 "La Perouse"
Bellingham, Washington

Marin wrote:
I've had a few people in my marina tell me the "just do it yourself"
thing, and when I've asked them to explain how, they've come to the boat
and said, "Hm, there's nowhere easy to put the jack,

REPLY
Not every person grew up as a shade tree mechanic.  Nor do most people have all
the nifty tools for each job.
Despite being a long time hot rodder and  having pulled  a fair number of
engines, I learned a new trick  last time I got involved in changing the engine
mounts on a boat.

We had a "power Pac" but instead of a bottle jack the head mechanic had a wedge
jack.
This little item looks just like a wedge used for splitting logs except it was
blunter and shorter

Closer examination showed that it was split and hinged  so that as you pumped on
the "power Pac" the two faces of the wedge moved apart.
Neatest thing you ever saw!
It was perfect for jamming into the half inch gap between engine mount and
longitudinal stringer plate.
But as Marin says the pros are at the top of the learning curve.
On this job the mechanic let his assistant ( his boating buddy)  use the Pac to
lift a mount to make an adjustment.
Unfortunately the guy forgot to loosen off the upper nut enough before using the
jack to lift.
Yep!  you guessed it.  The mount broke.  We were delayed for a day while another
mount was ordered in.
Cost for parts, shipping & handling, plus overnight surcharge amounted to
$150.00
Expensive learning curve.  "Good thing it was not the engine casting itself that
broke.
This was a 12Ton power Pac and could do a lot of damage in short order.

A 12T power Pac is now on my wish list;    .  .  . together with a whole slew
of other tools. < grin >

Arild

Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.588 / Virus Database: 372 - Release Date: 2/13/2004