Re: T&T: Water Tank Gauge
Thanks for the prompt replies from Lee, Rudy, Ken, Bob & Stephen.
Snake River electronics & Ferriello Sales I belive work on a similar
principle . It is my understanding that these require kizmos be attached
to the walls of the tank. I have virtually no access to the walls of the
poly tanks which are foamed in between the stringers.
Sight Glass: I am using the 3/4" clear vinyl tubing outlets which come
from the forward bottom corner of the 4 1/2" ft long, 11" deep tanks as
sight tubes. These lead up to a tee with valves. The bottom of the
vertical section is about 2" higher than the bottom of the tanks. Next is
a strainer. I have been loosening the strainer to open the tubes to the
atmosphere but for whatever reason the readings have not been very
reliable.
It does appear the Tank Tender is the "best" solution.....
Fireboy-Xintex have a "pneumatic" sensor. It indicates empty, 1/4, 1/2 3/4
and full, however, it requires a 1 1/2" opening which would require some
surgey to install. Its' price is getting up there with the Tank Tender.
Perhaps I will have another go at calibrating my "sight tubes"
Thanks to all
John
Sight Glass: I am using the 3/4" clear vinyl tubing outlets
which come
from the forward bottom corner of the 4 1/2" ft long, 11"
deep tanks as
sight tubes. These lead up to a tee with valves.
John, if there are any low spots in the line, anywhere along its lenght, the "sight glass" will not read acurately. A low spot, since you are using the existing discharge line, could be, and probably is in the line somewhere, but located where that you cannot see. If you could find it, or them, and get rid of them, then the arrangement, or at least the one I think you have, would probably work. However, I doubt that you'd find them, let alone be able to eliminate them.
It doesn't even have to be a dip, often just a flat horizontal spot will not allow accurate readings. This I know since I have this problem in one of my kerosene tanks. In addition, the sight glass should extend vertically more than the height of the tank. Also, the line, for the water level to freely rise and lower, must be open at its end, if not all the time then at least when you are taking a reading.
Sounds like you have access to the discharge port. It would probably be better and faster to install a TEE and a separate tube just for a sight glass, making sure there are no low or horizontal spots when you run the line. Tube doesn't have to be large, I generally use 1/4", even if I have to reduce down one side of the TEE.
When running the tubing, if you can, run it to some place that is easy to see, rather than somewhere that requires hatches, or worse, to be negotiated in order to see it. Many times it can be run in full view, but hidden by installing it up in a corner. Keep some slack in the vertical portion, as water will often be invisable in clear tubing.
With a sight amount of slack you can wiggle the tube to help locate top of the water level. Also, you may want to rethink keeping algae out of your water tanks. One advantage of having algae in your water is that it makes it easier to spot the water level in the sight glass. (insert laugh here)
Rudy
Briney Bug, Panama City, Fl
Snip:"...
It does appear the Tank Tender is the "best" solution.....
Fireboy-Xintex have a "pneumatic" sensor. It indicates empty, 1/4, 1/2 3/4
and full, however, it requires a 1 1/2" opening which would require some
surgey to install. Its' price is getting up there with the Tank Tender.
Perhaps I will have another go at calibrating my "sight tubes"..."
Another solution albeit pricey that is very reliable is the Maretron Tank
monitor. That is on a nema 2000 net so involves installing backbone and
having display capabilities e.g. a dsm-250 or the app that they've come out
with for I-phones /droids. I expanded the partial back bone to allow for the
many monitors they offer. I installed the Maretron tank monitor after
repeated failures of the tank tender system. It functions like a miniature
depth finder and mounts on the tank top. After calibration it has been
extremely accurate.
Joe
Carolyn Ann GH N-37
SeaLubber - I have considered using a flow meter to measure amount used,
don't know how good they are with low flow rates though and getting a
garden hose attachment to measure the amount put in. I had found one on
the internet a "Water Watch Meter" but have not been able to get to a "Buy
It" page. I have not found any in my big box stores. If you have a brand
name or store name I would follow it up.
Rudy got it right again - I have dips in my lines and not enough algae -
the later I can fix - the former ??? Is there an explanation why dips in
the lines give unreliable readings ??
The boat is a 32' PH. Tanks under salon, ending one foot aft of ER
bulkhead, discharge lines run to Fwd ER bulkhead, one "dipping" under the
engine - this may be the guy that is most confusing. I believe I can see
one of the discharge fittings, a little covered in foam, not sure if I can
see the other. I hesitate to disturb them. Good thought about teeing in
1/4" line for the sight tubes.
Joseph Pica Maretron Tank - looks very interesting, however, access would
be an issue.
Bill - thanks but the Wema are a float type and the location of my limited
access would not be practical.
Arild: I could only use float sender that required a small hole. I have
checked Popeyes Consignment shop. Johan says he sees the Tank Tender
occasionally. I have been known to klutz things together - often with out
visiting a store :) and have thought the Tank Tender can't be that
complicated. I guess one could figure out the PSI. I have an old fuel pump
pressure / vacuum gauge. A small pump might be difficult to obtain though.
All good information to tuck away
John