trawlers@lists.trawlering.com

TRAWLERS & TRAWLERING LIST

View all threads

rust on the tank top

RT
Richard Tomkinson
Wed, Jun 6, 2012 12:56 AM

Help please. Have discovered rust on the top of the tank particularly around the fill hose. I am on the source of the leak, but am looking for advice for the tank. Surgery tomorrow to get access.
My current plan is to vac out, wire brush the area, vac again, Phospho three times, dry then CPES.
Comments?
Richard

Help please. Have discovered rust on the top of the tank particularly around the fill hose. I am on the source of the leak, but am looking for advice for the tank. Surgery tomorrow to get access. My current plan is to vac out, wire brush the area, vac again, Phospho three times, dry then CPES. Comments? Richard
BM
Bob McLeran
Wed, Jun 6, 2012 3:17 AM

I think you're good up to the point of the CPES which is formulated to
penetrate permeable materials such as wood; steel/iron converted with
PHOSPO doesn't fit that category. PHOSPHO will convert any leftover rust
into solid metal and create a barrier. Then use a couple of coats of
Rustoleum base rather than CPES.

<><><><><><><><><><><><>Mozilla Thunderbird<><><><><><><><><><>
Bob McLeran and Judy Young              Manatee Cove Marina
MV Sanderling                            Patrick Air Force Base
DeFever 41 Trawler                      Melbourne, Florida
Blog: http://mvsanderling.net/Blog
Web: http://cruising.mvsanderling.net/

On 6/5/2012 8:56 PM, Richard Tomkinson wrote:

Help please. Have discovered rust on the top of the tank particularly
around the fill hose. I am on the source of the leak, but am looking
for advice for the tank. Surgery tomorrow to get access. My current
plan is to vac out, wire brush the area, vac again, Phospho three
times, dry then CPES. Comments? Richard

I think you're good up to the point of the CPES which is formulated to penetrate permeable materials such as wood; steel/iron converted with PHOSPO doesn't fit that category. PHOSPHO will convert any leftover rust into solid metal and create a barrier. Then use a couple of coats of Rustoleum base rather than CPES. <><><><><><><><><><><><>Mozilla Thunderbird<><><><><><><><><><> Bob McLeran and Judy Young Manatee Cove Marina MV Sanderling Patrick Air Force Base DeFever 41 Trawler Melbourne, Florida Blog: http://mvsanderling.net/Blog Web: http://cruising.mvsanderling.net/ On 6/5/2012 8:56 PM, Richard Tomkinson wrote: > Help please. Have discovered rust on the top of the tank particularly > around the fill hose. I am on the source of the leak, but am looking > for advice for the tank. Surgery tomorrow to get access. My current > plan is to vac out, wire brush the area, vac again, Phospho three > times, dry then CPES. Comments? Richard
LB
Leonard Brunotte
Sun, Jun 10, 2012 11:19 AM

Rich,
This seems to be the most common cause of fuel tank failure.  Most
important: find and stop the water intrusion. Suggestion: If you have tank
fuel fill fittings in deck check them for the possible source of water
intrusion.
Kindest regards,
Leonard Brunotte

<<<<>>>>>
Subject: T&T: rust on the tank top

Help please. Have discovered rust on the top of the tank particularly around
the fill hose. <<<>>>>>
Comments?
Richard


http://lists.trawlering.com/mailman/listinfo/trawlers_lists.trawlering.com

To unsubscribe or modify your subscription options (get password, change
email address, etc) go to:
http://lists.trawlering.com/mailman/listinfo/trawlers_lists.trawlering.com
Trawlers & Trawlering and T&T are trademarks of Water World Productions.
Unauthorized use is prohibited.

Rich, This seems to be the most common cause of fuel tank failure. Most important: find and stop the water intrusion. Suggestion: If you have tank fuel fill fittings in deck check them for the possible source of water intrusion. Kindest regards, Leonard Brunotte <<<<>>>>> Subject: T&T: rust on the tank top Help please. Have discovered rust on the top of the tank particularly around the fill hose. <<<>>>>> Comments? Richard _______________________________________________ http://lists.trawlering.com/mailman/listinfo/trawlers_lists.trawlering.com To unsubscribe or modify your subscription options (get password, change email address, etc) go to: http://lists.trawlering.com/mailman/listinfo/trawlers_lists.trawlering.com Trawlers & Trawlering and T&T are trademarks of Water World Productions. Unauthorized use is prohibited.
RP
richter-pooh@rocketmail.com
Tue, Jun 12, 2012 1:14 AM

Bryan,
Your e-mail address wouldn't accept my reply.
Yes, there are no 4-d marine batteries. But then there are no marine batteries at all, only starting and deep-cycle batteries. Marine batteries are a marketing invention. I strongly favor golf cart batteries. They only come in deep- cycle, which is what you need. They weigh half as much as 8-Ds so you may preserve your vertebrae. And they give the most amp hours for the money. I like Trojan T-105s, but they tend to be pricy. Costco and SAMs have a lesser brand at an attractive price, $79 at last check. I'd pay $20 more for the Trojans, but they tend to be even higher.

Mark. 863-517-1152 presently in Michigan

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 11, 2012, at 4:44 PM, Bryan Victhom bvcom@videotron.ca wrote:

Hello Mark

Sorry to bother you. I'd like to have your advice on batteries.

My 2 4D batteries are dead, probably sulfated. They had each 1000 CCA
capacity.

I'm trying to figure if I should replace them with the same thing, or go
with 4 golf cart batteries 6V in series, or a big 8D battery.

I don't think I can afford AGM batteries.

Is there an option better than another ? I was told there are no Marine 4D
batteries, so I probably had regular ones.

I need to power a fridge, computers, automatic pilot, DEL lights, and spend
many days in a row at anchor. To recharge, I have a 20 years old Raritan
Crow II Marine Automatic Converter R 3012F-3, rated for 30Amp at 12V.
Can I still trust it ?

Thanks a lot for your help if you have some time to answer back !

Bryan

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 5, 2012, at 8:56 PM, "Richard Tomkinson" capnrich@wavecable.com wrote:

Help please. Have discovered rust on the top of the tank particularly around the fill hose. I am on the source of the leak, but am looking for advice for the tank. Surgery tomorrow to get access.
My current plan is to vac out, wire brush the area, vac again, Phospho three times, dry then CPES.
Comments?
Richard


http://lists.trawlering.com/mailman/listinfo/trawlers_lists.trawlering.com

To unsubscribe or modify your subscription options (get password, change email address, etc) go to: http://lists.trawlering.com/mailman/listinfo/trawlers_lists.trawlering.com
Trawlers & Trawlering and T&T are trademarks of Water World
Productions. Unauthorized use is prohibited.

Bryan, Your e-mail address wouldn't accept my reply. Yes, there are no 4-d marine batteries. But then there are no marine batteries at all, only starting and deep-cycle batteries. Marine batteries are a marketing invention. I strongly favor golf cart batteries. They only come in deep- cycle, which is what you need. They weigh half as much as 8-Ds so you may preserve your vertebrae. And they give the most amp hours for the money. I like Trojan T-105s, but they tend to be pricy. Costco and SAMs have a lesser brand at an attractive price, $79 at last check. I'd pay $20 more for the Trojans, but they tend to be even higher. Mark. 863-517-1152 presently in Michigan Sent from my iPhone On Jun 11, 2012, at 4:44 PM, Bryan Victhom <bvcom@videotron.ca> wrote: > Hello Mark > > Sorry to bother you. I'd like to have your advice on batteries. > > My 2 4D batteries are dead, probably sulfated. They had each 1000 CCA > capacity. > > I'm trying to figure if I should replace them with the same thing, or go > with 4 golf cart batteries 6V in series, or a big 8D battery. > > I don't think I can afford AGM batteries. > > Is there an option better than another ? I was told there are no Marine 4D > batteries, so I probably had regular ones. > > I need to power a fridge, computers, automatic pilot, DEL lights, and spend > many days in a row at anchor. To recharge, I have a 20 years old Raritan > Crow II Marine Automatic Converter R 3012F-3, rated for 30Amp at 12V. > Can I still trust it ? > > Thanks a lot for your help if you have some time to answer back ! > > Bryan > Sent from my iPhone On Jun 5, 2012, at 8:56 PM, "Richard Tomkinson" <capnrich@wavecable.com> wrote: > Help please. Have discovered rust on the top of the tank particularly around the fill hose. I am on the source of the leak, but am looking for advice for the tank. Surgery tomorrow to get access. > My current plan is to vac out, wire brush the area, vac again, Phospho three times, dry then CPES. > Comments? > Richard > _______________________________________________ > http://lists.trawlering.com/mailman/listinfo/trawlers_lists.trawlering.com > > To unsubscribe or modify your subscription options (get password, change email address, etc) go to: http://lists.trawlering.com/mailman/listinfo/trawlers_lists.trawlering.com > Trawlers & Trawlering and T&T are trademarks of Water World > Productions. Unauthorized use is prohibited.
AW
Andy Woods
Wed, Jun 13, 2012 5:04 PM

I'm trying to figure if I should replace them with the same thing, or go
with 4 golf cart batteries 6V in series, or a big 8D battery. Bryan, Do yourself a favor and follow Mark's advice, you won't regret it.  I bought golf cart batteries from Interstate and they have worked beautifully.  I had a local distributor close to my home.  I paid 59 bucks apiece for them seven years ago but they robably cost more now.  They also made up jumper cables for me to connect all of the batteries together.  Battery boxes are available from a company called Dyno(?), check out  Fisheries Supplie.  I replaced two 8D batteries with eight 6v golf cart batteries and stayed with the 4D battery for starting the engine.  I know ithe 4D is overkill but I had a box and a place for it so it fit in well.  It's much easier to handle the golf cart batteries than the 8D batteries. I have no affiliation with Interstate Batteries, it's just another option. Regards, Andy

Andy Woods
Grand Folly
1970 Grand Banks 36 Classic
Blades, DE.
grandfolly@hotmail.com

> > I'm trying to figure if I should replace them with the same thing, or go > > with 4 golf cart batteries 6V in series, or a big 8D battery. Bryan, Do yourself a favor and follow Mark's advice, you won't regret it. I bought golf cart batteries from Interstate and they have worked beautifully. I had a local distributor close to my home. I paid 59 bucks apiece for them seven years ago but they robably cost more now. They also made up jumper cables for me to connect all of the batteries together. Battery boxes are available from a company called Dyno(?), check out Fisheries Supplie. I replaced two 8D batteries with eight 6v golf cart batteries and stayed with the 4D battery for starting the engine. I know ithe 4D is overkill but I had a box and a place for it so it fit in well. It's much easier to handle the golf cart batteries than the 8D batteries. I have no affiliation with Interstate Batteries, it's just another option. Regards, Andy Andy Woods Grand Folly 1970 Grand Banks 36 Classic Blades, DE. grandfolly@hotmail.com