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TWL: Ammeter conversion

G
GYMKIDD319@aol.com
Tue, Dec 9, 2003 5:04 PM

Al,
Why bother changing the arrangement you have?? That is, what do you wish to
accomplish??
Unless your batteries are not being fully charged or you feel the alternator
current is too low resulting in long charge times, I'd be inclined to keep the
current arrangement.

A simple test would be to check the voltage at the alternator during a
reasonably heavy charging current then measure the voltage at the battery
terminal....use a good quality digital voltmeter for accurate readings....the difference
is all the voltage losses in the wiring and meters you describe....
Maybe someone else can  post an appropriate difference...I'd say a difference
of 0.1 volt is "all ok", a difference of 0.5 volt is definitely
unacceptable....

An alternative to replacing the meters, if the voltage difference is of
concern, could be to boost the voltage via the regulator (if yours are adjustable)
a few tenths to get the battery terminal voltage you want.....

On my old Hatteras, I think  the heavy gauge wire to the f/b station meters
is the source for 12 volts up there.....so if you decide to fuss around, check
this out or be sure to leave the exisiting cables active to your stations.....

I've fussed with ammeters which have an external shunt bolted to the back of
a voltmeter...the face reads "amps"....if you have this style, you can remove
the metal shunt strip  and mount it elsewhere... run light wires to the same
points from each end of the shunt to the prior connections at the back of the
meter..

Cheers,
Rob Brueckner
1972 Hatteras Yachtfish

Al, Why bother changing the arrangement you have?? That is, what do you wish to accomplish?? Unless your batteries are not being fully charged or you feel the alternator current is too low resulting in long charge times, I'd be inclined to keep the current arrangement. A simple test would be to check the voltage at the alternator during a reasonably heavy charging current then measure the voltage at the battery terminal....use a good quality digital voltmeter for accurate readings....the difference is all the voltage losses in the wiring and meters you describe.... Maybe someone else can post an appropriate difference...I'd say a difference of 0.1 volt is "all ok", a difference of 0.5 volt is definitely unacceptable.... An alternative to replacing the meters, if the voltage difference is of concern, could be to boost the voltage via the regulator (if yours are adjustable) a few tenths to get the battery terminal voltage you want..... On my old Hatteras, I think the heavy gauge wire to the f/b station meters is the source for 12 volts up there.....so if you decide to fuss around, check this out or be sure to leave the exisiting cables active to your stations..... I've fussed with ammeters which have an external shunt bolted to the back of a voltmeter...the face reads "amps"....if you have this style, you can remove the metal shunt strip and mount it elsewhere... run light wires to the same points from each end of the shunt to the prior connections at the back of the meter.. Cheers, Rob Brueckner 1972 Hatteras Yachtfish
RW
Rich Werner
Wed, Dec 10, 2003 1:19 AM

Does anyone have any experience with the Wallas Diesel stove with the heat
option, both as a stove and a heater?  Any input is appreciated.  Might be
used on a GB-32 woodie.

Thanks.

Rich
GB32-277 1972

Does anyone have any experience with the Wallas Diesel stove with the heat option, both as a stove and a heater? Any input is appreciated. Might be used on a GB-32 woodie. Thanks. Rich GB32-277 1972
BK
Bill Kinsey
Wed, Dec 10, 2003 2:16 AM

----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich Werner" richw@keyadvice.com
To: trawler-world-list@lists.samurai.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 09, 2003 5:19 PM
Subject: TWL: Wallas Diesel Stove

Does anyone have any experience with the Wallas Diesel stove with the heat
option, both as a stove and a heater?  Any input is appreciated.  Might be
used on a GB-32 woodie.

I had one on a 26ft sailboat and was very pleased with it. The fuel supply
was a 5 litre plastic jug strapped to a bulkhead under the stove. No odour
problems.  Virtually silent* except when the blower lid is closed and heat
is being blown out the front of the stove. [*a slightly louder fan noise
when the blower top is horizontal, i.e.in use]

The controls are easy to use and seem to prevent screw-ups. The flame is
fully contained and water vapour exits through the cabin/hull side vent (or
a cabin-top one if you wish).  Dry heat! The start-up and shut-down
procedures are controlled by the stove's electronics.

The downsides? The hot air exits at stove-top level, rather than at your
feet as with some heating systems. The cook top has room for only two
pots/pans. [It's smooth (black glass) and easy to clean. But don't drop
anything on it.]  Slower than propane but much faster than a Dickinson
stove. Not inexpensive.

ScanMarine in Seattle is the North American distributor/US dealer. River
Marine in Vancouver, BC is a Canadian source. Both are knowledgeable and
helpful.

No connections, etc. etc.

Bill Kinsey
26 Tolly
Kinship 3

----- Original Message ----- From: "Rich Werner" <richw@keyadvice.com> To: <trawler-world-list@lists.samurai.com> Sent: Tuesday, December 09, 2003 5:19 PM Subject: TWL: Wallas Diesel Stove > Does anyone have any experience with the Wallas Diesel stove with the heat > option, both as a stove and a heater? Any input is appreciated. Might be > used on a GB-32 woodie. > I had one on a 26ft sailboat and was very pleased with it. The fuel supply was a 5 litre plastic jug strapped to a bulkhead under the stove. No odour problems. Virtually silent* except when the blower lid is closed and heat is being blown out the front of the stove. [*a slightly louder fan noise when the blower top is horizontal, i.e.in use] The controls are easy to use and seem to prevent screw-ups. The flame is fully contained and water vapour exits through the cabin/hull side vent (or a cabin-top one if you wish). Dry heat! The start-up and shut-down procedures are controlled by the stove's electronics. The downsides? The hot air exits at stove-top level, rather than at your feet as with some heating systems. The cook top has room for only two pots/pans. [It's smooth (black glass) and easy to clean. But don't drop anything on it.] Slower than propane but much faster than a Dickinson stove. Not inexpensive. ScanMarine in Seattle is the North American distributor/US dealer. River Marine in Vancouver, BC is a Canadian source. Both are knowledgeable and helpful. No connections, etc. etc. Bill Kinsey 26 Tolly Kinship 3