RR
Ron Rogers
Mon, Dec 14, 2009 11:13 PM
Another alternative: < http://www.onlineindustrialsupply.com/tyrrsucodi.html
>
Ron Rogers
BH
Brent Hodges
Mon, Dec 14, 2009 11:18 PM
What you may want to consider using, unless you are sandblasting, is a 4
or
4.5 angle grinder with heavy grit (36 or less) grinding discs, or a
composite
grinding disc.
This is a fine tool to have onboard. You can get them at Home Debit in the
Ryobi brand for about $40, and they seem to be as well built as you could
ever hope for for the money. I've had one that I use quite a bit (at least
once a week) and it's still in perfect shape after about 4 years. Get one of
them, and spend another $40 or so on attachments, (cutting wheels, wire
brushes, sanding attachment, paper, etc) and you'll never regret it. I used
it to clean my running gear last time I hauled out as I remember. I get the
most use cutting ss bolts, brackets, and whatever with the little cutting
wheels. I cut an 1 1/4" prop shaft (frozen coupler) in about 5 minutes on a
customers boat (and one $2 cutting wheel) where the yard said it usually
took them almost an hour with a sawzall and several expensive blades.
Every time I use it, I wonder why I didn't have one years ago.
Brent Hodges
Friendship
43 Albin
Seabrook, Tx.
> What you may want to consider using, unless you are sandblasting, is a 4
> or
> 4.5 angle grinder with heavy grit (36 or less) grinding discs, or a
> composite
> grinding disc.
This is a fine tool to have onboard. You can get them at Home Debit in the
Ryobi brand for about $40, and they seem to be as well built as you could
ever hope for for the money. I've had one that I use quite a bit (at least
once a week) and it's still in perfect shape after about 4 years. Get one of
them, and spend another $40 or so on attachments, (cutting wheels, wire
brushes, sanding attachment, paper, etc) and you'll never regret it. I used
it to clean my running gear last time I hauled out as I remember. I get the
most use cutting ss bolts, brackets, and whatever with the little cutting
wheels. I cut an 1 1/4" prop shaft (frozen coupler) in about 5 minutes on a
customers boat (and one $2 cutting wheel) where the yard said it usually
took them almost an hour with a sawzall and several expensive blades.
Every time I use it, I wonder why I didn't have one years ago.
Brent Hodges
Friendship
43 Albin
Seabrook, Tx.
RA
Rudy and Jill
Tue, Dec 15, 2009 12:01 AM
This is a fine tool to have onboard. You can get them at
Home Debit in the Ryobi brand for about $40, and they seem
to be as well built as you could ever hope for for the
money.
There at first I thought Brent was talking about the Fein tool- cutting a shaft in a few minutes? I was thinking that I got a bad unit, but then I realized he was talking about the angle grinder.
If you need another reason to buy one, for those who haven't thought about it, an angle grinder (circular saw, too) with a composite wheel cuts fiberglass and does it easily, if you hold it on edge. Curves, straight lines, it'll do it all and without breaking a sweat. As the wheel wears down, you just put another one in. These composite wheels, either for masonry or steel, lasts considerably longer than any toothed blade.
When the opportunity presents itself, I'll use the 7 inch blades, either in my circular saw or table saw, and when the blade gets too small for that use, I then save them for use in the angle grinder (they all use 5/8 arbor). Can anybody bet that for cheap?
Rudy
Briney Bug, Panama City, Fl
> This is a fine tool to have onboard. You can get them at
> Home Debit in the Ryobi brand for about $40, and they seem
> to be as well built as you could ever hope for for the
> money.
There at first I thought Brent was talking about the Fein tool- cutting a shaft in a few minutes? I was thinking that I got a bad unit, but then I realized he was talking about the angle grinder.
If you need another reason to buy one, for those who haven't thought about it, an angle grinder (circular saw, too) with a composite wheel cuts fiberglass and does it easily, if you hold it on edge. Curves, straight lines, it'll do it all and without breaking a sweat. As the wheel wears down, you just put another one in. These composite wheels, either for masonry or steel, lasts considerably longer than any toothed blade.
When the opportunity presents itself, I'll use the 7 inch blades, either in my circular saw or table saw, and when the blade gets too small for that use, I then save them for use in the angle grinder (they all use 5/8 arbor). Can anybody bet that for cheap?
Rudy
Briney Bug, Panama City, Fl
SD
Steven Dubnoff
Tue, Dec 15, 2009 1:53 AM
If you need another reason to buy one, for those who haven't thought
about it, an angle grinder (circular saw, too) with a composite
wheel cuts fiberglass and does it easily, if you hold it on edge.
Curves, straight lines, it'll do it all and without breaking a
sweat. As the wheel wears down, you just put another one in. These
composite wheels, either for masonry or steel, lasts considerably
longer than any toothed blade.
I am not looking forward to cutting off another four inches from my
dingy davit (3.5" aluminum tube). When I did that the first time
with a Sawzall, it took me about half an hour. Is the angle grinder
the tool of choice? Does anyone have any recommendations for an
appropriate cutting wheel? Do I need a diamond one?
Thanks,
Steve
>If you need another reason to buy one, for those who haven't thought
>about it, an angle grinder (circular saw, too) with a composite
>wheel cuts fiberglass and does it easily, if you hold it on edge.
>Curves, straight lines, it'll do it all and without breaking a
>sweat. As the wheel wears down, you just put another one in. These
>composite wheels, either for masonry or steel, lasts considerably
>longer than any toothed blade.
I am not looking forward to cutting off another four inches from my
dingy davit (3.5" aluminum tube). When I did that the first time
with a Sawzall, it took me about half an hour. Is the angle grinder
the tool of choice? Does anyone have any recommendations for an
appropriate cutting wheel? Do I need a diamond one?
Thanks,
Steve
RA
Rudy and Jill
Tue, Dec 15, 2009 2:27 AM
I am not looking forward to cutting off another four inches
from my dingy davit (3.5" aluminum tube). When I did
that the first time with a Sawzall, it took me about half an
hour. Is the angle grinder the tool of choice?
Does anyone have any recommendations for an appropriate
cutting wheel? Do I need a diamond one?
Steve, for cutting aluminum, think about using a high-count, carbide tooth blade in your circular saw, a similar blade that you'd use to make smooth cuts in plywood with. This setup will cut easily, especially with a lubricant, either a commercial lub, or even just WD40. Cut through in one direction, then rotate and finish the cut. At a minimum, eye protection is needed, but a face shield makes it much more pleasant on the face.
My experience is that an angle grinder doesn't work so well for a cutoff tool, for aluminum, as the composite wheels clog up too easy. There are some thin cutoff blades that can work better, but I find the circular saw faster and less dangerous than these thin cutoff wheels. (I have a nice scar to remind me of this.) But with coarse sanding discs, an angle grinder is great for cleaning up the cut, as is a belt sander. Graduating to finer grit will allow you to polish the cut.
High-cost blades are not important although carbide tip blades are more helpful than blades with just hardened steel tips. Aluminum can generally be worked with typical wood working saws, grinders and sanders. Metal files also work on aluminum starting with coarse for fast work and graduating to fine tooth files to smooth everything out and finer and finer sand paper until as smooth as you desire.
Rudy
Briney Bug, Panama City, Fl
> I am not looking forward to cutting off another four inches
> from my dingy davit (3.5" aluminum tube). When I did
> that the first time with a Sawzall, it took me about half an
> hour. Is the angle grinder the tool of choice?
> Does anyone have any recommendations for an appropriate
> cutting wheel? Do I need a diamond one?
Steve, for cutting aluminum, think about using a high-count, carbide tooth blade in your circular saw, a similar blade that you'd use to make smooth cuts in plywood with. This setup will cut easily, especially with a lubricant, either a commercial lub, or even just WD40. Cut through in one direction, then rotate and finish the cut. At a minimum, eye protection is needed, but a face shield makes it much more pleasant on the face.
My experience is that an angle grinder doesn't work so well for a cutoff tool, for aluminum, as the composite wheels clog up too easy. There are some thin cutoff blades that can work better, but I find the circular saw faster and less dangerous than these thin cutoff wheels. (I have a nice scar to remind me of this.) But with coarse sanding discs, an angle grinder is great for cleaning up the cut, as is a belt sander. Graduating to finer grit will allow you to polish the cut.
High-cost blades are not important although carbide tip blades are more helpful than blades with just hardened steel tips. Aluminum can generally be worked with typical wood working saws, grinders and sanders. Metal files also work on aluminum starting with coarse for fast work and graduating to fine tooth files to smooth everything out and finer and finer sand paper until as smooth as you desire.
Rudy
Briney Bug, Panama City, Fl
RR
Ron Rogers
Tue, Dec 15, 2009 2:49 AM
You must have been using the wrong blade. With the appropriate Sawzall
bi-metal hacksaw blade, a careful cut can be made in one minute. Another way
that is guaranteed more precise is a tube/pipe cutter. You can rent it. It
looks like a big "C" clamp and has a hardened steel cutting wheel on one
side of the jaw and a roller on the other. You just locate it on the pipe
where you want the cut and tighten it a little and rotate the clamp around
the pipe. Then tighten a little more and continue until the pipe is cut
through. If you can't rent one big enough, there are two other rental tools
used by plumbers that will do it.
Of course, you could take it to someone with a metal cutoff saw and it will
be cut through in a second. Do it the right way. You should consider keeping
a manual hacksaw with bi-metal blades onboard for emergencies. You can do
that for under $30.00.
Ron Rogers
-----Original Message-----
From: Steven Dubnoff
Sent: Monday, December 14, 2009 8:53 PM
I am not looking forward to cutting off another four inches from my
dingy davit (3.5" aluminum tube). When I did that the first time
with a Sawzall, it took me about half an hour. Is the angle grinder
the tool of choice? Does anyone have any recommendations for an
appropriate cutting wheel? Do I need a diamond one?
Thanks,
Steve
You must have been using the wrong blade. With the appropriate Sawzall
bi-metal hacksaw blade, a careful cut can be made in one minute. Another way
that is guaranteed more precise is a tube/pipe cutter. You can rent it. It
looks like a big "C" clamp and has a hardened steel cutting wheel on one
side of the jaw and a roller on the other. You just locate it on the pipe
where you want the cut and tighten it a little and rotate the clamp around
the pipe. Then tighten a little more and continue until the pipe is cut
through. If you can't rent one big enough, there are two other rental tools
used by plumbers that will do it.
Of course, you could take it to someone with a metal cutoff saw and it will
be cut through in a second. Do it the right way. You should consider keeping
a manual hacksaw with bi-metal blades onboard for emergencies. You can do
that for under $30.00.
Ron Rogers
-----Original Message-----
From: Steven Dubnoff
Sent: Monday, December 14, 2009 8:53 PM
I am not looking forward to cutting off another four inches from my
dingy davit (3.5" aluminum tube). When I did that the first time
with a Sawzall, it took me about half an hour. Is the angle grinder
the tool of choice? Does anyone have any recommendations for an
appropriate cutting wheel? Do I need a diamond one?
Thanks,
Steve
AM
Alec McLocklin (amclockl)
Tue, Dec 15, 2009 6:46 PM
My experience is that an angle grinder doesn't work so well for a cutoff
tool, for aluminum, as the composite wheels clog up too easy. There are
some thin cutoff blades that can work better, but I find the circular
saw faster and less dangerous than these thin cutoff wheels. (I have a
nice scar to remind me of this.) But with coarse sanding discs, an angle
grinder is great for cleaning up the cut, as is a belt sander.
Graduating to finer grit will allow you to polish the cut.
High-cost blades are not important although carbide tip blades are more
helpful than blades with just hardened steel tips. Aluminum can
generally be worked with typical wood working saws, grinders and
sanders. Metal files also work on aluminum starting with coarse for fast
work and graduating to fine tooth files to smooth everything out and
finer and finer sand paper until as smooth as you desire.
Rudy
Briney Bug, Panama City, Fl
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Trawlers & Trawlering and T&T are trademarks of Water World Productions.
Unauthorized use is prohibited.
Remember to use ear protection! Those blades scream your brains out at
the same time that they do an awesome job.
I second the use of a Fein tool. Use it to plunge cut all the time. Not
many tools can plunge cut in a straight line.
Alec
GB 49 Alaskan
My experience is that an angle grinder doesn't work so well for a cutoff
tool, for aluminum, as the composite wheels clog up too easy. There are
some thin cutoff blades that can work better, but I find the circular
saw faster and less dangerous than these thin cutoff wheels. (I have a
nice scar to remind me of this.) But with coarse sanding discs, an angle
grinder is great for cleaning up the cut, as is a belt sander.
Graduating to finer grit will allow you to polish the cut.
High-cost blades are not important although carbide tip blades are more
helpful than blades with just hardened steel tips. Aluminum can
generally be worked with typical wood working saws, grinders and
sanders. Metal files also work on aluminum starting with coarse for fast
work and graduating to fine tooth files to smooth everything out and
finer and finer sand paper until as smooth as you desire.
Rudy
Briney Bug, Panama City, Fl
_______________________________________________
http://lists.samurai.com/mailman/listinfo/trawlers-and-trawlering
To unsubscribe or modify your subscription options (get password, change
email address, etc) go to:
http://lists.samurai.com/mailman/options/trawlers-and-trawlering
Trawlers & Trawlering and T&T are trademarks of Water World Productions.
Unauthorized use is prohibited.
Remember to use ear protection! Those blades scream your brains out at
the same time that they do an awesome job.
I second the use of a Fein tool. Use it to plunge cut all the time. Not
many tools can plunge cut in a straight line.
Alec
GB 49 Alaskan