Empathy List Archives

G&

George & Emilie Rankin

Wed, May 19, 2010 3:10 PM

Why not use a 12V DC-DC converter/charger to keep the electronics battery
charged? It is a more expensive solution but is almost foolproof.

I use something from Mastervolt, but there are other products (get one
designed for marine use).
(http://www.mastervolt.com/view_product.php?lang=2&section=mobile&prggr_id=10
14&prg_id=1084&pro_id=5220). It is essentially a DC battery charger that is
powered from your house bank (or starting bank if that is all you have).

George R

Silk Road

Why not use a 12V DC-DC converter/charger to keep the electronics battery charged? It is a more expensive solution but is almost foolproof. I use something from Mastervolt, but there are other products (get one designed for marine use). (http://www.mastervolt.com/view_product.php?lang=2&section=mobile&prggr_id=10 14&prg_id=1084&pro_id=5220). It is essentially a DC battery charger that is powered from your house bank (or starting bank if that is all you have). George R Silk Road

FB

Frank Burrows

Wed, May 19, 2010 3:59 PM

George:

The MasterVolt at $550 is more than I want to invest in this thing. I
never considered running this rig off of my inverter bank which is
separate from the two starting banks.and would make a lot more sense.
Others have suggested a 110 volt dedicated charger for the electronics
battery which would also be a more cost effective solution.

thanks

Frank Burrows 79 43' Viking Piney Narrows Chesapeake Bay

On 5/19/2010 11:10 AM, George & Emilie Rankin wrote:

Why not use a 12V DC-DC converter/charger to keep the electronics battery
charged? It is a more expensive solution but is almost foolproof.

George: The MasterVolt at $550 is more than I want to invest in this thing. I never considered running this rig off of my inverter bank which is separate from the two starting banks.and would make a lot more sense. Others have suggested a 110 volt dedicated charger for the electronics battery which would also be a more cost effective solution. thanks Frank Burrows 79 43' Viking Piney Narrows Chesapeake Bay On 5/19/2010 11:10 AM, George & Emilie Rankin wrote: > Why not use a 12V DC-DC converter/charger to keep the electronics battery > charged? It is a more expensive solution but is almost foolproof.

PB

Peter Bennett

Wed, May 19, 2010 4:19 PM

I run all my electronics directly from the house bank, and only the
engine, its instruments, and bow thruster from the start battery.
This removes any chance of starting transients affecting the
electronics, and doesn't require a separate electronics battery.

Wednesday, May 19, 2010, 8:59:34 AM, Frank wrote:

FB> George:

FB> The MasterVolt at $550 is more than I want to invest in this thing. I
FB> never considered running this rig off of my inverter bank which is
FB> separate from the two starting banks.and would make a lot more sense.
FB> Others have suggested a 110 volt dedicated charger for the electronics
FB> battery which would also be a more cost effective solution.

FB> thanks

FB> Frank Burrows 79 43' Viking Piney Narrows Chesapeake Bay

FB> On 5/19/2010 11:10 AM, George & Emilie Rankin wrote:

Why not use a 12V DC-DC converter/charger to keep the electronics battery
charged? It is a more expensive solution but is almost foolproof.

--
Peter Bennett, VE7CEI Vancouver, B.C., Canada
Ennos 31 "Honeycomb"
GPS and NMEA info: http://vancouver-webpages.com/peter
Vancouver Power Squadron: http://vancouver.powersquadron.ca

I run all my electronics directly from the house bank, and only the engine, its instruments, and bow thruster from the start battery. This removes any chance of starting transients affecting the electronics, and doesn't require a separate electronics battery. Wednesday, May 19, 2010, 8:59:34 AM, Frank wrote: FB> George: FB> The MasterVolt at $550 is more than I want to invest in this thing. I FB> never considered running this rig off of my inverter bank which is FB> separate from the two starting banks.and would make a lot more sense. FB> Others have suggested a 110 volt dedicated charger for the electronics FB> battery which would also be a more cost effective solution. FB> thanks FB> Frank Burrows 79 43' Viking Piney Narrows Chesapeake Bay FB> On 5/19/2010 11:10 AM, George & Emilie Rankin wrote: >> Why not use a 12V DC-DC converter/charger to keep the electronics battery >> charged? It is a more expensive solution but is almost foolproof. -- Peter Bennett, VE7CEI Vancouver, B.C., Canada Ennos 31 "Honeycomb" GPS and NMEA info: http://vancouver-webpages.com/peter Vancouver Power Squadron: http://vancouver.powersquadron.ca

BH

Brent Hodges

Wed, May 19, 2010 11:08 PM

Hi Frank,
I've installed several of the 7610 Blue Sea Charge Relays and have been very
impressed. It has a "Start Isolation" circuit that you can hook to your
engine starter that will disconnect the batteries when you are starting the
engines. It will ONLY connect the batteries if it senses a charge present.
( 13.6 volts for 30 seconds or 13.0 for 2 minutes). It will disconnect if it
sees 12.35 volts for 10 seconds or 12.75 for 30 seconds. It is capable of
handling 120 amps of charging, so it is a pretty healthy beast. At under
$100, it's a low cost, reliable solution. I always test the start isolation
feature when I wire one in, and it works as advertised.

It also has a nifty circuit for a remote led light to tell you when your
batteries are connected, when the start isolation is engaged, and when they
are disconnected. You never have to wonder if it's working.

So, no need to redo your whole system. Just replace the charge relay and
you'll be happy.

Brent Hodges

Hi Frank, I've installed several of the 7610 Blue Sea Charge Relays and have been very impressed. It has a "Start Isolation" circuit that you can hook to your engine starter that will disconnect the batteries when you are starting the engines. It will ONLY connect the batteries if it senses a charge present. ( 13.6 volts for 30 seconds or 13.0 for 2 minutes). It will disconnect if it sees 12.35 volts for 10 seconds or 12.75 for 30 seconds. It is capable of handling 120 amps of charging, so it is a pretty healthy beast. At under $100, it's a low cost, reliable solution. I always test the start isolation feature when I wire one in, and it works as advertised. It also has a nifty circuit for a remote led light to tell you when your batteries are connected, when the start isolation is engaged, and when they are disconnected. You never have to wonder if it's working. So, no need to redo your whole system. Just replace the charge relay and you'll be happy. Brent Hodges

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