Hello Warm Water Cruisers,
I am in Costa Rica and will be entering the canal zone in a couple
of weeks. Meanwhile my bottom paint applied in Newport Calif in Oct/07
is doing miserably. I will probably get the bottom in Panama or
Cartegena before I leave the area. I had convinced myself that a hard
bottom paint was the way to go since I'm having to clean the bottom
every month. With the ablative I just see mucho dollars going up in a
cloud. I guess the argument could be that if the ablative had enough
copper/tin additives the scrubbing wouldn't need to take place. Well we
aren't on the move all the time so the self polishing lags a bit when we
are "smelling the roses" for a month or two at a time.
Curious as to what is the common practice where high content
biocides are available? Hard or soft? I was told by Shelter Bay Marina
that they have a very hard ablative with all the additives. Is this a
good compromise.
The next potential haul out will be in a year, probably stateside.
Thanks,
Les Dobbe
"Voyager"
Cocos, Costa Rica
My research on this subject has led me to specify Jotun SeaQuantum Ultra for
my next repaint: http://tinyurl.com/44w5jg
Thorstein Midttun
NORNA
I've used Petit Trinidad (now the SR version) for years. It's a hard epoxy,
and I get 3 years out of it easily. This is on the Texas coast, nice and
warm!
Keith
Teak does not age gracefully; it ages immediately.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Les Dobbe" lesdobbe@gmail.com
Curious as to what is the common practice where high content
biocides are available? Hard or soft? I was told by Shelter Bay Marina
that they have a very hard ablative with all the additives. Is this a
good compromise.
Les,
Before leaving on FUBAR I had Driscolls in Shelter Island repaint the
bottom. I asked them to use Petit Trinidad SR but they said Seahawk
Sharkskin was a much better paint at 1/2 the cost. Since you put ablative
paint on, you may have other issues to deal with, but I would recommend you
consider Sharkskin. Good luck! Scott