Empathy List Archives

V

veiner@juno.com

Tue, Feb 10, 2009 12:38 PM

Keith wrote:

" 9.. Let the glue dry per manufacturer's recommendations, usually
overnight. The next day, come back with a SHARP chisel to knock the tops off.
If you can tell the slope of the grain, chisel from the side with the lowest
point of slope, so that the bung chisels off and doesn't end up lower than the
hole. If not, don't worry. it's not the end of the world."

In general, the steps you outline for maintaining teak decks is specific and
accurate. However, in step 9, you recommend taking a "SHARP chisel and hamme"
to knock off the tops of the bungs.

While building a sailboat, I had an old German master shipwright show me the
correct way to trim bungs. You use the sharp chisel to shave or skive the
bung. That way, you can always control the bung height. Course teak bungs will
frequently break if you use a hammer and chisel, resulting in some cuts being
lower than the deck.

In most cases, a professional will shave the bung slightly higher than the
deck so that it can be lightly sanded flush.
Martin I. Veiner
Key Largo, FL

FTD.com
Shop now and save $15 on Flowers and Gifts from FTD!
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Keith wrote: " 9.. Let the glue dry per manufacturer's recommendations, usually overnight. The next day, come back with a SHARP chisel to knock the tops off. If you can tell the slope of the grain, chisel from the side with the lowest point of slope, so that the bung chisels off and doesn't end up lower than the hole. If not, don't worry. it's not the end of the world." In general, the steps you outline for maintaining teak decks is specific and accurate. However, in step 9, you recommend taking a "SHARP chisel and hamme" to knock off the tops of the bungs. While building a sailboat, I had an old German master shipwright show me the correct way to trim bungs. You use the sharp chisel to shave or skive the bung. That way, you can always control the bung height. Course teak bungs will frequently break if you use a hammer and chisel, resulting in some cuts being lower than the deck. In most cases, a professional will shave the bung slightly higher than the deck so that it can be lightly sanded flush. Martin I. Veiner Key Largo, FL ____________________________________________________________ FTD.com Shop now and save $15 on Flowers and Gifts from FTD! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2131/fc/u4MuSHFRkLfDtvxVxvmbLzTUYI78U9tTE xtq6yezaOQY5h5pb9G00/

AT

Al Thomason

Tue, Feb 10, 2009 2:02 PM

Couple of other hints that helps me :-)

Take a dental pick and scrape out the screw head before whacking with the
screw driver.

I use a manual screw driver to take the screws out. When you do 1st put a
bit of pressure like you are tightening the screw, just enough to 'break it
loose'. Then you can back the screw out. This is a good idea for any old
screw bedded in wood. It will reduce the odds of striping out the head.

When chissleing the bungs off, you want to 'whack' them off about 1/8" proud
of the deck, then shave off the rest level. In this way, if the grain runs
down you can come at it from the other side and not worry about it breaking
out and being too short.

-al-

Couple of other hints that helps me :-) Take a dental pick and scrape out the screw head before whacking with the screw driver. I use a manual screw driver to take the screws out. When you do 1st put a bit of pressure like you are tightening the screw, just enough to 'break it loose'. Then you can back the screw out. This is a good idea for any old screw bedded in wood. It will reduce the odds of striping out the head. When chissleing the bungs off, you want to 'whack' them off about 1/8" proud of the deck, then shave off the rest level. In this way, if the grain runs down you can come at it from the other side and not worry about it breaking out and being too short. -al-

RW

Rich Werner

Tue, Feb 10, 2009 3:08 PM

Try using a brace and bit for removing screws. Gives lots of leverage and
less chance of stripping the screw head because you have good downward
pressure.

Rich

Rich & Laura Werner
GB32-277
rwmobile@keyadvice.com iTouch Mail
(206) 789-6310 - Office
(206) 786-0081 - Cell
http://www.werner2.com/poco

-----Original Message-----

I use a manual screw driver to take the screws out. When you do 1st put a
bit of pressure like you are tightening the screw, just enough to 'break it
loose'. Then you can back the screw out. This is a good idea for any old
screw bedded in wood. It will reduce the odds of striping out the head.

Try using a brace and bit for removing screws. Gives lots of leverage and less chance of stripping the screw head because you have good downward pressure. Rich ______________________________ Rich & Laura Werner GB32-277 rwmobile@keyadvice.com iTouch Mail (206) 789-6310 - Office (206) 786-0081 - Cell http://www.werner2.com/poco -----Original Message----- I use a manual screw driver to take the screws out. When you do 1st put a bit of pressure like you are tightening the screw, just enough to 'break it loose'. Then you can back the screw out. This is a good idea for any old screw bedded in wood. It will reduce the odds of striping out the head.

W&

Wesley & Patty Eldred

Tue, Feb 10, 2009 3:17 PM

Years ago some British motorcycles used aluminum screws on their engines.
The only tool that would reliably loosen these without damaging the heads
was the hammer struck impact driver which simultaneously drives the
screwdriver bit into the screw head and imparts a small rotation by way of
interacting cam lobes. Mine is still a treasured part of my toobox after 50
years. For about $25 with no batteries needed, everyone should have one.
The Craftsman version can be viewed here:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00947641000P?vName=Tools

Regards,

Wesley, LNVT
wpeldred@comcast.net

----- Original Message -----
From: "Al Thomason" thomason.al@gmail.com
To: trawlers-and-trawlering@lists.samurai.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 10, 2009 9:02 AM
Subject: Re: T&T: Teak Bung Deck Maintenance

I use a manual screw driver to take the screws out. When you do 1st put a
bit of pressure like you are tightening the screw, just enough to 'break
it
loose'. Then you can back the screw out. This is a good idea for any old
screw bedded in wood. It will reduce the odds of striping out the head.

Years ago some British motorcycles used aluminum screws on their engines. The only tool that would reliably loosen these without damaging the heads was the hammer struck impact driver which simultaneously drives the screwdriver bit into the screw head and imparts a small rotation by way of interacting cam lobes. Mine is still a treasured part of my toobox after 50 years. For about $25 with no batteries needed, everyone should have one. The Craftsman version can be viewed here: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00947641000P?vName=Tools Regards, Wesley, LNVT wpeldred@comcast.net ----- Original Message ----- From: "Al Thomason" <thomason.al@gmail.com> To: <trawlers-and-trawlering@lists.samurai.com> Sent: Tuesday, February 10, 2009 9:02 AM Subject: Re: T&T: Teak Bung Deck Maintenance > I use a manual screw driver to take the screws out. When you do 1st put a > bit of pressure like you are tightening the screw, just enough to 'break > it > loose'. Then you can back the screw out. This is a good idea for any old > screw bedded in wood. It will reduce the odds of striping out the head.

DK

Dale Kern

Tue, Feb 10, 2009 5:19 PM

Rich offers great advice, use a brace to hold the screw bit. Have a number of
different bits, sizes and shapes (look at the tip), available to better match
the screws. Often, more than one "style" of screw is used on the same project
and a different bit will fit better.

Then, be sure to have a set of screw extractors on hand. A set of 4 or 5 can
be purchased for less than $20 at tool shops or online. I've lost track of
the number of times screw, bolt extractors and nut crackers have saved my
behind on projects.

Dale
Promised Wind, Cat. 34
Utah

-----Original Message-----
From: trawlers-and-trawlering-bounces@lists.samurai.com
[mailto:trawlers-and-trawlering-bounces@lists.samurai.com] On Behalf Of Rich
Werner
Sent: Tuesday, February 10, 2009 8:09 AM
To: trawlers-and-trawlering@lists.samurai.com
Subject: Re: T&T: Teak Bung Deck Maintenance

Try using a brace and bit for removing screws. Gives lots of leverage and
less chance of stripping the screw head because you have good downward
pressure.

Rich

Rich & Laura Werner
GB32-277
rwmobile@keyadvice.com iTouch Mail
(206) 789-6310 - Office
(206) 786-0081 - Cell
http://www.werner2.com/poco

-----Original Message-----

I use a manual screw driver to take the screws out. When you do 1st put a
bit of pressure like you are tightening the screw, just enough to 'break it
loose'. Then you can back the screw out. This is a good idea for any old
screw bedded in wood. It will reduce the odds of striping out the head.

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Rich offers great advice, use a brace to hold the screw bit. Have a number of different bits, sizes and shapes (look at the tip), available to better match the screws. Often, more than one "style" of screw is used on the same project and a different bit will fit better. Then, be sure to have a set of screw extractors on hand. A set of 4 or 5 can be purchased for less than $20 at tool shops or online. I've lost track of the number of times screw, bolt extractors and nut crackers have saved my behind on projects. Dale Promised Wind, Cat. 34 Utah -----Original Message----- From: trawlers-and-trawlering-bounces@lists.samurai.com [mailto:trawlers-and-trawlering-bounces@lists.samurai.com] On Behalf Of Rich Werner Sent: Tuesday, February 10, 2009 8:09 AM To: trawlers-and-trawlering@lists.samurai.com Subject: Re: T&T: Teak Bung Deck Maintenance Try using a brace and bit for removing screws. Gives lots of leverage and less chance of stripping the screw head because you have good downward pressure. Rich ______________________________ Rich & Laura Werner GB32-277 rwmobile@keyadvice.com iTouch Mail (206) 789-6310 - Office (206) 786-0081 - Cell http://www.werner2.com/poco -----Original Message----- I use a manual screw driver to take the screws out. When you do 1st put a bit of pressure like you are tightening the screw, just enough to 'break it loose'. Then you can back the screw out. This is a good idea for any old screw bedded in wood. It will reduce the odds of striping out the head. _______________________________________________ http://lists.samurai.com/mailman/listinfo/trawlers-and-trawlering To unsubscribe or modify your subscription options (get password, change email address, etc) go to: http://lists.samurai.com/mailman/options/trawlers-and-trawlering Trawlers & Trawlering and T&T are trademarks of Water World Productions. Unauthorized use is prohibited.

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Re: T&T: Teak Bung Deck Maintenance