The Velvet Drive rear seal can be replaced while the boat is in the water if you have sufficient clearance to uncouple the shaft and slide it back 10" to 12". This is one of those situations where a twin screw boat has an advantage, as you can usually slide the shafts back and the props do not encounter a rudder as they do with a single screw drive. Once you unbolt the coupling, you need to loosen the shaft stuffing box, so that you can slide the shaft back. I had to pry them apart and actually use a jack to gently (!) push the shaft back. I always prefer a jack to a hammer. Hammering on that shaft might only increase shaft vibration, which may have been the cause of the seal leaking in the first place. After that, you only have to remove the reverse gear housing, not the whole transmission. I do not remember, but I think the reverse gear is held on with about 6 bolts. Remove the the reverse gear and take it to a shop which has the expertise to measure the critical tolerances to determine the seal size. You may also want to change the prop nut while you have the gear off, as this nut coming undone has been the cause of many premature transmission failures. The actual removal of the reverse gear only takes about 45 minutes once you figure out what you are doing. Suggest you buy a bolt about 1.5" longer than the ones that bolt the reverse gear to the transmission housing. Cut off the head (just one bolt) and use it as a pilot shaft when you are ready to re-attach the reverse gear. This headless bolt will save you hours of frustration and probably save some fingers as well. Thanks Phil Rosch for sharing this tip with me on TL two years ago! Good luck, Martin Veiner _____________________________________________________________ Hotel pics, info and virtual tours. Click here to book a hotel online. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2111/fc/Ioyw6iiflKGqH0L6DfYIeaNa4aoxg1BY1 WCeFWsoCvTQjmFgHBD4kc/

Thanks for all the tips. The seal that is leaking is not the rear seal but rather one of the pump seals. I am getting transmission fluid from the bell housing vent hole which means I will have to remove the entire transmission to get to the pump seals. Sounds like I will have to wait until I get the boat out of the water. John veiner@juno.com wrote: >The Velvet Drive rear seal can be replaced while the boat is in the water if >you have sufficient clearance to uncouple the shaft and slide it back 10" to >12". > >This is one of those situations where a twin screw boat has an advantage, as >you can usually slide the shafts back and the props do not encounter a rudder >as they do with a single screw drive. > >Once you unbolt the coupling, you need to loosen the shaft stuffing box, so >that you can slide the shaft back. I had to pry them apart and actually use a >jack to gently (!) push the shaft back. I always prefer a jack to a hammer. >Hammering on that shaft might only increase shaft vibration, which may have >been the cause of the seal leaking in the first place. > >After that, you only have to remove the reverse gear housing, not the whole >transmission. I do not remember, but I think the reverse gear is held on with >about 6 bolts. > >Remove the the reverse gear and take it to a shop which has the expertise to >measure the critical tolerances to determine the seal size. You may also want >to change the prop nut while you have the gear off, as this nut coming undone >has been the cause of many premature transmission failures. The actual removal >of the reverse gear only takes about 45 minutes once you figure out what you >are doing. > >Suggest you buy a bolt about 1.5" longer than the ones that bolt the reverse >gear to the transmission housing. Cut off the head (just one bolt) and use it >as a pilot shaft when you are ready to re-attach the reverse gear. This >headless bolt will save you hours of frustration and probably save some >fingers as well. Thanks Phil Rosch for sharing this tip with me on TL two >years ago!