Long, long, long story! Part two from Diesel Duck
Dear Friends,
This is the follow-up of the first part of our Diesel Duck
41 story, which was published in January on this list. This
part will cover briefly our travels.
With a finished new Duck we left Whitby, Canada in Sept.
2005 the way Ontarians do, down the New York Canal, Hudson
and the ICW. By the time we reached Miami, our seamanship
skills were sharpened up. While in Canada my theory in
navigation was paper charts only, having done a big trip on
our sailboat 20 years ago with two Atlantic crossings, the
use of paper charts was burnt into my system. Well, from
Miami on, I basically used electronic charts, C-Map, which
came with our Furuno Navnet. Oh, what a joy these
electronic charts can be. Our paper charts were not thrown
overboard. I still use them for route planning and as a
back-up.
Our route brought us through the Caribbean with all the
pleasant islands like: St. Thomas, St. Martin, Martinique
etc. all the way to Margarita, Venezuela. The diesel fuel
is dirt cheap there and very clean, but high in sulphur
content. (Not a bad thing, really). 3000 liter (800 gal)
was US $36. Unbelievable isn't it?
The winter 2006/7 was spent in St. Thomas close to sources
for Butterball turkey and the whole works for Xmas. 2007 we
did the Caribbean cruise again and stopped in Cumana,
Venezuela to fill up the Duck with the good, inexpensive
diesel. Here is some food for thought. Two 24 pack of
excellent Polar beer cost US $12, and 1000 liter (265 gal)
cost the same. What would you buy?
We managed to get a cruising permit for Venezuela and the
permission to go to Puerto Ordaz up on the Orinoco river.
The route to get there logically is to bypass Trinidad in
the Gulf of Paria and entering south of Trinidad the Rio
Macareo, one of the delta arms of the mighty Rio Orinoco.
The Orinoco forms 5 delta arms emptying the water into the
Atlantic. Three of them used to be navigational, but not
any more. The arm Rio Manamo got closed up with a dam to
save the city of Tucupita from flooding. The arm Rio Grande
is still used for shipping and ore carriers use it. The arm
Rio Macareo was used during the war and dredged. German
U-boats kept a check on the mouth of the Rio Grande, but the
Rio Macareo flows into the Gulf of Paria and this section
was too shallow for the U-boat. Dredging stopped in the
fifties, but with the knowledge of a few way-points, Diesel
Duck was able to venture into an area which is pure
undisturbed jungle with the exception of Indians and drug
runners. No law and order. Even the chief of the village
works with the Columbians and Trinis. Fast pineros loaded
down with 50 gal drums of Acetone passed us. The Indian
women were employed by the Columbians in plants hidden in
the delta to manufacture Cocaine. Twice we were stopped and
checked out by drug bosses and every time we convinced them
we were only a mom and pop boat and gave a dickens about
their business. It cost us some cold beer. After 120 miles
in currents that ran up to 2 knots, we hit the Orinoco,
which has a 4 knot current running. Almost no tourist boats
go up there. Maybe one boat every few years. The Orinoco
is being used by commercial shipping and patrolled by
Guardia National toting machine guns on fast metal crafts,
with two 250 hp Johnsons on the back. We caused quite an
upheaval with our presence and the teniente told us:
"You cannot anchor here. It is too dangerous. Mucho
banditos! You have to go for the night to Puerto Ordaz
which is only two hours away." 20 miles and more
upriver with a current of 4 knots. It would take us about
10 hours to cover this. We were doing only 2 knots over the
ground in one hour. But the Guardia National boat would
cover this in a breeze. I almost convinced the teniente to
leave one of the FN Assault rifles with us for protection,
but after consulting with his superior over the cell phone,
the deal was off. The following day we got to the Armada
base in Puerto Ordaz, where we were incredibly well
received. They even brought us supper to the boat. There
at the base they told us to always lock up the boat. I
asked, "Banditos?" "No" they said,
"Ratas." Marlene couldn't get the DD fast
enough closed up. The whole trip was 185 miles upriver.
Many times pure jungle and lots of floating rafts of
hibiscus. One morning a tarantula was already halfway up
the anchor chain before we could persuade her to get back
onto the floating island which had rapped itself around the
anchor chain. Finishing the trip back down river, DD
sometimes topped 12 knots over the ground. Amazing!
For the winter 2007/8 we sailed from Bonaire to Puerto
Rico, to spend another Xmas in St. Thomas. To be more
precise, only two months while fitting a furling jib to the
Duck and to replace the guts of the freezer. We had the
furler shipped from Defender and the jib made locally. The
freezer's 12 V compressor and the evaporator plates came
from Sea Frost in the States.
On 2. Jan. 2008 we started moving. A real Diesel Duck
blitz. 12. Feb. Margarita, Venezuela. After a visit in
Puerto La Cruz, we stopped in Caya Borracha to clean
DD's bottom while diving and from there onto Carabelleda
to fill up with diesel fuel. Please click up Piracy at the
noonsite webpage of the recent terrible pirate attacks in
Borracha and Caraballeda.
http://www.noonsite.com
With a 2 day stop in Curacao we arrived in Panama, Colon on
Easter Saturday. Darn! We missed tons of action there just
by a few days. Part of the new James Bond movie was made
there in the Shelter Bay Marina, Colon and surrounding
waters. All participating cruising boats were paid $100/day
up to 16 days to take part in spicing up the scenery while
Daniel Craig (James Bond) was shooting holes into boats.
Leaving DD in the marina we took a trip to Germany and
after our return hauled her out of the water for a bottom
job. A problem emerged from the Panama Canal Authorities in
Apr. 08. Canal transit time was backlogged up to 10 weeks
waiting time, because the canal pilots operated on a work to
rule campaign. Having blasted through the San Blas islands
before our trip to Germany, we then decided to sail back to
the 350+ islands of the San Blas to explore the reef
surrounded islands before they sink away by the global
warming. These islands are on the Atlantic side of Panama.
You don't have to sail 1000 miles west to lay hand on a
paradise like this. Almost every day we spent snorkeling
exploring the underwater world. One time in the Coco
Bandero Cays, a group of extremely scenic islands situated
behind a four mile long protective outer barrier reef, we
noticed a 35-40 ft. speed boat coming in at sundown. The
guys on it went overboard diving and before nightfall the
boat took off again toward the open sea. Next morning an
outboard powered Kuna Indian boat with three men arrived and
chased away another Kuna Indian in a dugout who started
diving at the same spot. We didn't think much of it at
the time, but a few days later, the same exercise repeated
itself. Being curious and always looking to explore new
areas, I snorkeled past the spot on the way to a reef I
hadn't explored yet. There I noticed a 20 ft container
with an open door in 30 feet of clear water on the sea
bottom. It looked like a little underwater warehouse. What
the hell is going on here? Columbia was less than 100 miles
south. Well, I leave it at that. Marlene purchased several
Molas from the Kuna women. At times we were totally swarmed
by industrious Indians pushing their wares and we tried to
explain that we already had enough and didn't want any
more.
In the Eastern Lemmon Cays on Banedup island lives a Kuna
family running a little bakery for Kuna bread. Kuna bread
looks like a hot dog bun, but tastes like French bread.
Kunas are very business minded and dollars are very much
on their minds when they spot foreigners. This family
counts the anchored boats and how many people are on board.
Then, in the afternoon, when the bread is ready, the baker
blows a conch shell horn and the surrounding cruisers jump
in their dinghies to purchase this warm, crusty, fresh
bread. We followed the example and brought a half a dozen
loafs back to DD to be devoured with gusto. However, my
appetite diminished when I discovered the added protein
baked within (weevils).
Our biggest problem in the San Blas was the rain and the
relentless thunderstorms at this time of year. Quite
unsettling sometimes to watch lightening all around us. The
rainy season had arrived and the humidity climbed sometimes
up to 100%. Change of plans! DD left the San Blas and did
an overnighter to Boca del Toro at the Costa Rica border.
However, it rained a lot there too so we sailed into the Rio
Chagres by Colon. An old pirate holdout and pure jungle
teeming with wildlife like jungle cats and monkeys. There
were plenty of wild mango trees. Fruit ripe to eat and
plentiful to pick. Hoards of monkeys gorging themselves on
these sweet fruits and they didn't mind when we helped
ourselves also for an easy picking.
While we sat in these still waters I used the opportunity
to do engine maintenance. Changed the timing belt, a 2000
hrs maintenance requirement on our trusted Perkins diesel
engine. Then exchanged the transmission fluid and the
engine oil. We had heard that the canal pilots run the
engines at full throttle. Buggers they are! Being prepared
is better than having an engine problem in the middle of the
canal.
With a freshly serviced engine and a good load of juicy
mangoes, DD arrived on Independence Day, the 4th of July at
Colon harbor. We visited the Panama Canal Authorities'
office, paid the $600 fee and the $800 deposit to get the
ball rolling for the canal transit and made an appointment
for the Admeasurer, a name for the guy who is like some kind
of inspector. He inspects your toilet and makes sure the
canal pilot does not have to use a bucket or bed pan on your
boat. I am convinced, these pilots have seen it all and
have had wild experiences. The Admeasurer measures as well
the boat's length, width and heights and tells you to
feed the pilot an evening meal, a breakfast and a lunch plus
snacks in-between. Just in case these meals are not up to
snuff, the pilot will have himself meals catered from a
fancy outfit to the boat and the cost will be deducted from
your $800 deposit. A dry cleaning of his clothes or uniform
if your boat is filthy will as well bring your deposit into
trouble.
In Balboa by Panama City, DD entered the Pacific Ocean and
sailed on to the Perlas islands. The Perlas get their name
from when the Spanish conquistadores Casper de Morales and
Francisca Pizarro robbed a large amount of pearls from the
indigenous King Toe. They defeated the king and enslaved
his skilled pearl divers. Queen Mary Tudor of England's
31 carat "peregrina" pearl came from these
islands. We snorkeled there also, but didn't find one
single pearl. However, on the northern shore of the Isla
San Telmo, we noticed a beached
U-boat. It looked like a Japanese midget WWII submarine
were you lash a torpedo on each side and with a kamikaze
pilot it is steered into an enemy harbor and blows up an
important target. Later, while in Ecuador, I did some
research on this sub and found some interesting web sites
about this boat.
http://www.spiegel.de/international/spiegel/0,1518,412287,00html
http://www.thehunley.com/NEWSLETTER_62/Newletter_62.htm#THE_EXPLORER_MAY_JOIN_THE-HUNLEY
http://wikipedia.org/wik/Sub_Marine_Explorer
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Julius_H_Kroehl
The other attraction at the Perlas islands were the TV
stages on the beaches for the TV series "Survivor"
Brazilian and Columbian film crews were shooting their
episodes.
Passing Isla San Telmo, DD steered toward the Golfo de San
Miguel and stopped overnight at La Palma, the entrance to
the Rio Tuira for an adventurous trip. We traveled the
Orinoco last year, so this year we had the Rio Chargres and
the Rio Tuira on our plate. The Rio Chargres is dammed
after a few miles and is now part of the Panama Canal. But
the Rio Tuira is wild, forbidden jungle and not without some
danger, we found out ourselves. Our plan was to go all the
way up to the town of Yaviza, a wild west town with a
special police detachment to stem the flow of trouble from
the nearby Columbian guerillas. From Palma to Yaviza
it's 52 miles of jungle river. DD with 4-1/2 ft draft
still had to use the rising tide to navigate this river.
Rising tide allows you to float free when you hit ground.
In Yaviza, the Pan-American Highway stops. It begins in
Alaska and ends at Tierra de Fuego, Argentina. Between
Yaviza, Panama and Arquia, Columbia are 60 miles missing to
link the highway. Stupid political reasons prevent this
important road to be finished.
DD worked itself up the river with the tides to Yaviza
covering the 52 miles in two days. Not easy while dodging
huge debris floating down river. The wildlife was
incredible. Alligators, snakes and colorful birds. When
the tide was running out, the current reached 4-1/2 knots.
On the 3rd of Aug. we reached Yaviza. While on the approach
to the river harbor and the current against us (thanks God)
concentrating our eyes on a pedestrian suspension bridge in
front of us, we hit high power overhead lines, which stopped
the boat. Marlene screamed "Wire overhead" and I
hit the gear into reverse, gunning up the engine. DD
separated from the cable and with shaking knees we anchored
a few hundred yards down stream. Somehow we weren't
electrocuted but we felt the static. All equipments worked
still fine. Only the extrusion of the jib furler was bent
and the upper bearing block had deep scratches and burn
marks. The new furling jib took the impact.
The locals of Yaviza were parading along the harbor front
and over the small suspension bridge to have a peek at DD.
Two special forces policemen came by to see our papers and
mentioned to us that they had never seen a tourist boat up
there before. After a night anchored off the town, we
ventured back down stream, but against the tide. During the
night we struggled to free a huge mess of bamboo trees and
logs that had tangled in our anchor chain.
Once back in the Pacific, we plotted a course to Isla
Gorgona, Columbia, just SW off the city Buenaventura. The
island used to be a prison island from 1967 to 1984. Now it
is a presidential retreat for the president of Columbia and
a resort. It is heavily guarded by the Armada and special
police troop when the president or family members are
visiting. When we arrived on Sunday, the First Lady and
daughter were there but after they left on Monday, we were
invited to come ashore and dine with the manager of the Bio
Resort and to tour the prison ruins and area.
From Isla Gorgona, DD sailed further down the seashore,
always hugging the coast to pick up a counter current in the
lee of the land. The sea is often calm at night. We
stopped in Ecuador at the Bahia de Caraquez, where we spent
six weeks under anchor at Puerto Amistad socializing with a
bunch of nice cruising folks. Next stop was the very nice
Marina of Puerto Lucia in Salinas, where we left DD to fly
home to attend our son's wedding.
On Nov. 26th we started from Salinas, Ecuador on a nonstop
sail to Iquique, Chile, bypassing Peru. It took us ten days
to sail these 1400 miles. We were somehow a little late in
the season to get down to Chile before the wind along the
Peruvian coast picks up, but we just managed to slip by.
Yes, we had strong winds in the Golfo de Guayaquil where the
Humboldt current meets the South Pacific Equatorial current
and kicks up a sea. Our outboard motor bracket with the 15
hp Yamaha mounted on broke off. But just in the nick of
time we were able to lash the Yamaha to the main boom and
save it from falling overboard.
We sailed along the coast of Chile with pit stops in
Mejillones des Sur, Coquimbo and Algarrobo to pick up diesel
fuel or to break up the voyage without night watches for a
night or so. Our plan to sail from Algarrobo to Valdivia we
had to change NW on Isla de St. Maria, when a weather
warning of 30-35 kt winds and going to 40 kt forced us to
turn around and run back to Talcahuano, which we had past
during the night. The last couple of hours of getting into
the safety of the protected harbor were slaughter motoring
into 30 knots with an ugly side effect. The rapidly
dropping barometric pressure caused our compass to develop
an air-bubble. This compass is a Venus from C-Plath,
apparently one of the best. Our plan was to spend Christmas
in Valdivia, but now we were here, 220 miles north of
Valdivia and being guests at the Chilean Armada's own
marina. They furnished us with a special pass to get
through the gate of the military compound.
Up to now the weather gods were kind to us. it was a beat
from Panama on against current and wind. Our trick was to
use the lee of the land, hug the coast and most nights there
was no wind or variable winds caused by the land effect.
Many times we picked up a counter current and the Duck was
doing up to 7 kt. But my diesel fuel usage calculation was
down the drain. In the Caribbean the Duck managed to burn
4.2 - 5.0 liter/hr and the sails were helping too. At the
run along the western south American coast the fuel use hit
7 to 7.5 liter/hr. A price we had to pay beating into
prevailing winds and current. We left Talcahuano and from
that day on, to Valdivia and later to Puerto Montt, getting
closer to the 40th latitude, everything started to change.
The winds blew stronger out of the south or southwest. The
night temperature went down to 7 deg. C. There were days
where the Duck had to beat into 28 kt for hours on end. It
was uncomfortable, but doable. Marlene produced lots of
ready meals that just needed to be heated or cup a soup
where you just add hot water instead of cooking elaborate
dinners.
Puerto Montt is a wonderful place to stop. The marina, in
our case Club Nautico Reloncavi, was inexpensive, about
$5/day + electricity for a finger dock.
For cruising in the Patagonian canals, you have to get or
buy at least 2 mooring lines, floating polypropylene lines,
each 120 m long to tie up to trees or rocks while stopping
for the night in addition to your anchor. The charter boats
mount the lines on big stainless steel reels, but we stuffed
them into empty sail bags, which worked fine. Luckily, the
winds blew strong from the north in the Patagonia canals.
We experienced 40 kt and when you are tied up for the night,
rachas (williwaws) roll down the mountains fiercely, shaking
the whole boat. Now you appreciate the two extra 3/4 inch
polypropylene lines tied to the trees.
After a restful couple of weeks in Puerto Montt, the DD
moved on to Puerto Williams, the most southern town on this
planet. A 1000 miles through winding canals and sometimes
open waters. The Glaciers were a special attraction to us,
waking up with thousands of ice floes next to the boat. We
have not sailed the inside passage in British Columbia to
Alaska, but this must be in comparison similar.
Here is a little adventure which lurks beneath the water
surface. One time in the channel, moving also, our
propeller hit something soft, cutting through what turned
out to be kelp. The rails of the DD started to vibrate and
the boat lost speed. We hit the neutral gear and cut the
RPM. Shifting into reverse or forward did not help. The
propeller was rendered useless! The water temperature was a
whopping 45 deg. F inviting me to jump overboard. I was
really sorry at that moment I was not an owner of a wetsuit
or better yet a dry suit. I had to investigate the state of
the propeller. My tools were swimming trunk, mask, fins and
a hooker for air. I did my fastest dive ever, cutting free
the propeller from a pile of kelp which had rapped itself
around the prop like a frigging mess in less than 60
seconds. Hey, speed is everything!
Now we are in Puerto Williams, tied to the famous
"Micalvi", a retired Armada supply ship, serving
now as a club house and bar. Meanwhile 40 miles further
south a strong gale blows around the horn. Shall we go to
the horn? It is only a few hours of cruising time away. We
are ready in our minds.
So long to you all.
Benno and Marlene "Diesel Duck"