Re: T&T: Vacuflush Cycling
In a message dated 4/1/2008 10:17:18 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
skinner555@comcast.net writes:
My new vacuflush system's vacuum pump recycles every 90 minutes, service
gut
says this meets factory specs. Seams unreasonable. Any opinions on this?
The only times I can recall our vacuflush recycling was when something was
obstructing a good seal, which meant that the unit drew all the water out and I
could hear air being sucked in. I cleared it by running a short piece of
plastic around the groove at the base; it was usually a small piece of tissue or
even a hair strand.
Reid Gantt
Atlantic 30
"Vouivre"
Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video
on AOL Home.
(http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15&ncid=aolhom00030000000001)
From: ReidGantt@aol.com
To: skinner555@comcast.net; trawlers-and-trawlering@lists.samurai.com
The only times I can recall our vacuflush recycling was when something was
obstructing a good seal, which meant that the unit drew all the water out
and I
could hear air being sucked in. I cleared it by running a short piece of
plastic around the groove at the base; (endsnip)
SeaLand actually makes a small tool just for cleaning that seal. It' a flat
plastic piece about the size of a popsicle stick with a small area of
abrasive (more like short velcro) on one side. They come with new toilets,
but can be bought seperately.
Brent Hodges
"Brent Hodges" vbhodges@gmail.com writes:
SeaLand actually makes a small tool just for cleaning that seal. It' a flat
plastic piece about the size of a popsicle stick with a small area of
abrasive (more like short velcro) on one side. They come with new toilets,
but can be bought seperately.
A few comments on this thread:
As everyone else has said, the units should not be cycling... at all. If they
are, it's a problem and it must be tracked down.
The best troubleshooting advice is to see whether the bowl is dry. If it's
dry, the leak is in the ball valve at the bottom of the toilet. In every case
where my pumps have cycled, this has been the culprit. If the bowl still has
water, the leak is downstream of the ball valve.
Notwithstanding the cleaning tool from Sealand, the best results I have had
cleaning a leaky ball valve are when I hold the ball valve open with my foot,
and then clean carefully all the way around the inside of the rubber gasket.
I just use paper towel and Sunlight. YOU DO NOT WANT A NICK IN THE SEAL!
This next part may be a bit controversial, we'll see what Peggie has to say
about it.
I read once long ago that vinegar was good for cleaning heads. And I used to
work in a lab and we had a oily sort of lubricant that we used for O-rings
and other rubber seals. So, I got to thinking that a nice emulsion of vinegar
and vegetable oil would be good to clean and lubricate the rubber parts in my
heads. Fortunately Kraft makes a product that contains exactly these
ingredients and best of all bottle costs about $1.29 in the salad dressing
aisle at your local supermarket. So after cleaning the ball valve I go to the
fridge, find the oldest bottle of salad dressing I have, and pour about a
cupful into the head. Work the ball valve open and closed about 10 times. So
far (4 years) the results have been perfect.
Finally, I am not keen on replacing the duckbills, so I don't put TP down the
heads. I find if you provide a little stainless-steel trash can right beside
the head you can divert most of it without a hassle. Again, 4 years and no
problems with the duckbills.
YMMV, etc.
Scott Welch
FirstClass Product Manager
www.firstclass.com
Those who make no mistakes rarely make anything.
Scott H.E. Welch wrote:
Finally, I am not keen on replacing the duckbills, so I don't put TP down the
heads. I find if you provide a little stainless-steel trash can right beside
the head you can divert most of it without a hassle. Again, 4 years and no
problems with the duckbills.
I've been a licensed plumber for nearly 30 years, and in that time I've
experienced pretty much the whole gamut of things sanitary and probably
more un-sanitary. Some of what I've seen could probably cause the casual
viewer to lose lunch. It goes with the territory.
No offense Scott, but I've run into folks on land as well as many
boaters who insist on the particularly unsanitary practice of storing
used toilet paper in a container next to the potty. How gross! (Even to
a professional plumber, it's unappealing.) A vacu-flush will easily
handle the TP Sea Land recommends. The consistency when wet is no
different than the waste the system is designed to handle, and although
I can't speak for the designers, I'm positive they designed the toilets
to flush the paper they recommend. I'd sooner deal with a well-rinsed
duckbill valve than cart out used toilet paper on a regular basis. I've
been boating for over 30 years, and have never had a head problem that
could be related directly to toilet paper. I've certainly had paper pack
up in a line due to another cause, but it was never the direct cause of
the problem. Tissues, yes. That's why we don't keep them available in
the guest head.
Flush the paper. It really won't cause a problem if you use the marine
paper, and it certainly is much more sanitary.
Steve Sipe