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TWL: Re: Carpets that work and don't stick

N
Nswift@aol.com
Mon, Jun 11, 2001 5:53 PM

I received several suggestions about throw rugs with rubberized backings that
would again stick and make marks on the teak and holly floor. Most said to
enjoy my floors and then use chemicals to remove the build-up from the
underlayment.

Remember, I have tried:

Using the thin layer rubberized stuff from Walmart under throw rugs

Buying the rubberized backed carpets from Lowe's. They look nice and they 

last about 6 months. Then they powder and stick to the floor. They make a
terrible mess.

If any of you know of a great throw rug that won't skid and won't cause
damage to our beautiful floors, please e-mail us.

Thank you

I received several suggestions about throw rugs with rubberized backings that would again stick and make marks on the teak and holly floor. Most said to enjoy my floors and then use chemicals to remove the build-up from the underlayment. Remember, I have tried: Using the thin layer rubberized stuff from Walmart under throw rugs Buying the rubberized backed carpets from Lowe's. They look nice and they last about 6 months. Then they powder and stick to the floor. They make a terrible mess. If any of you know of a great throw rug that won't skid and won't cause damage to our beautiful floors, please e-mail us. Thank you
D
dalescott@cablespeed.com
Mon, Jun 11, 2001 6:53 PM

We have been experiencing the same problems with our GB42CL.  My wife bought
beautiful oriental carpets which are guaranteed to slip out from under your
feet at the most inopportune time.  We've tried three different non-slip
pads.  All have adhered to the teak floor and required countless hours with
Murphys oil-soap and fine steel wool to remove.  These carpets represented a
fairly substantial investment so we would really like to find something to
place under them that will keep them from sliding around yet not adhere to
the teak.

We have been experiencing the same problems with our GB42CL. My wife bought beautiful oriental carpets which are guaranteed to slip out from under your feet at the most inopportune time. We've tried three different non-slip pads. All have adhered to the teak floor and required countless hours with Murphys oil-soap and fine steel wool to remove. These carpets represented a fairly substantial investment so we would really like to find something to place under them that will keep them from sliding around yet not adhere to the teak.
N
normrose@earthlink.net
Mon, Jun 11, 2001 7:17 PM

Dale & Nswift,
Look, just a wild thought...what about painting the back of a carpet
with that liquid rubber stuff you put on tool handles? And, I saw
somewhere (of course I don't remember) an advt. for a brushable rubber
truck bedliner type material. Perhaps either of these on the back of a
rug would be tough enough to stand up to your situation.
What thinkest thou?

Norm Rose

I joined a health club last year, spent about $400. Haven't lost a
pound. Apparently you have to show up.

Dale & Nswift, Look, just a wild thought...what about painting the back of a carpet with that liquid rubber stuff you put on tool handles? And, I saw somewhere (of course I don't remember) an advt. for a brushable rubber truck bedliner type material. Perhaps either of these on the back of a rug would be tough enough to stand up to your situation. What thinkest thou? Norm Rose I joined a health club last year, spent about $400. Haven't lost a pound. Apparently you have to show up.
S
samakijoe@mediaone.net
Mon, Jun 11, 2001 8:17 PM

At 01:53 PM 06/11/2001 EDT, Nswift@aol.com wrote:

I received several suggestions about throw rugs with rubberized backings

that

would again stick and make marks on the teak and holly floor. Most said to
enjoy my floors and then use chemicals to remove the build-up from the
underlayment.

Remember, I have tried:

Using the thin layer rubberized stuff from Walmart under throw rugs

Buying the rubberized backed carpets from Lowe's. They look nice and

they

last about 6 months. Then they powder and stick to the floor. They make a
terrible mess.

If any of you know of a great throw rug that won't skid and won't cause
damage to our beautiful floors, please e-mail us.

Thank you

Maybe we need to look at what you are using for a coating on the wood.
Does anyone have a suggestion for a coating that has shown to be usable in
this situation?...jd

Joe DellaFera / Margaret Murray
36' Prairie  DC "Prairie Star"
Pompano Beach, Fl.

At 01:53 PM 06/11/2001 EDT, Nswift@aol.com wrote: >I received several suggestions about throw rugs with rubberized backings that >would again stick and make marks on the teak and holly floor. Most said to >enjoy my floors and then use chemicals to remove the build-up from the >underlayment. > >Remember, I have tried: > > Using the thin layer rubberized stuff from Walmart under throw rugs > > Buying the rubberized backed carpets from Lowe's. They look nice and they >last about 6 months. Then they powder and stick to the floor. They make a >terrible mess. > > >If any of you know of a great throw rug that won't skid and won't cause >damage to our beautiful floors, please e-mail us. > >Thank you Maybe we need to look at what you are using for a coating on the wood. Does anyone have a suggestion for a coating that has shown to be usable in this situation?...jd Joe DellaFera / Margaret Murray 36' Prairie DC "Prairie Star" Pompano Beach, Fl.
T
tobyboat@worldnet.att.net
Mon, Jun 11, 2001 9:23 PM

so we would really like to find something to

place under them that will keep them from sliding around yet not adhere to

the teak.

***  I simply gave up and put in some snaps - the carpet stays put -  and
I am no longer afraid to walk across the floor .

Ken

so we would really like to find something to > place under them that will keep them from sliding around yet not adhere to the teak. *** I simply gave up and put in some snaps - the carpet stays put - and I am no longer afraid to walk across the floor . Ken
Y
yourcaptain@earthlink.net
Mon, Jun 11, 2001 10:44 PM

like to find something to

place under them that will keep them from sliding around yet not adhere to
the teak.

---===========================
Have you tried spraying on a little contact cement, let it dry thoroughly
so it doesn't stick. I believe this will stop the sliding.
.
Captain Al Pilvinis

"M/V Driftwood"--Prairie 47
2630 N.E. 41st Street
Lighthouse Point, Fl 33064-8064
Voice 954-941-2556 Fax 954 788-2666
Email  yourcaptain@earthlink.net
Website http://home.earthlink.net/~yourcaptain

like to find something to >place under them that will keep them from sliding around yet not adhere to >the teak. ============================================================ Have you tried spraying on a little contact cement, let it dry thoroughly so it doesn't stick. I believe this will stop the sliding. . Captain Al Pilvinis "M/V Driftwood"--Prairie 47 2630 N.E. 41st Street Lighthouse Point, Fl 33064-8064 Voice 954-941-2556 Fax 954 788-2666 Email yourcaptain@earthlink.net Website http://home.earthlink.net/~yourcaptain
Y
yourcaptain@earthlink.net
Mon, Jun 11, 2001 10:50 PM

something to

place under them that will keep them from sliding around yet not adhere to
the teak.

---=======================
Another thought
Dale
I use silicone under many items to keep them from sliding around, even
coffee mugs and leaves no residue.
You can get watery windshield sealant, works great for me.
.
Captain Al Pilvinis

"M/V Driftwood"--Prairie 47
2630 N.E. 41st Street
Lighthouse Point, Fl 33064-8064
Voice 954-941-2556 Fax 954 788-2666
Email  yourcaptain@earthlink.net
Website http://home.earthlink.net/~yourcaptain

something to >place under them that will keep them from sliding around yet not adhere to >the teak. ======================================================== Another thought Dale I use silicone under many items to keep them from sliding around, even coffee mugs and leaves no residue. You can get watery windshield sealant, works great for me. . Captain Al Pilvinis "M/V Driftwood"--Prairie 47 2630 N.E. 41st Street Lighthouse Point, Fl 33064-8064 Voice 954-941-2556 Fax 954 788-2666 Email yourcaptain@earthlink.net Website http://home.earthlink.net/~yourcaptain
Y
yourcaptain@earthlink.net
Mon, Jun 11, 2001 10:55 PM

Norm Rose

I joined a health club last year, spent about $400. Haven't lost a
pound. Apparently you have to show up.

---============================
Your problem Norm is you are showing up at the dinner table.
.
Captain Al Pilvinis

"M/V Driftwood"--Prairie 47
2630 N.E. 41st Street
Lighthouse Point, Fl 33064-8064
Voice 954-941-2556 Fax 954 788-2666
Email  yourcaptain@earthlink.net
Website http://home.earthlink.net/~yourcaptain

>Norm Rose > >I joined a health club last year, spent about $400. Haven't lost a >pound. Apparently you have to show up. ============================================================= Your problem Norm is you are showing up at the dinner table. . Captain Al Pilvinis "M/V Driftwood"--Prairie 47 2630 N.E. 41st Street Lighthouse Point, Fl 33064-8064 Voice 954-941-2556 Fax 954 788-2666 Email yourcaptain@earthlink.net Website http://home.earthlink.net/~yourcaptain
D
dbarnard@virtualacreage.com
Mon, Jun 11, 2001 11:36 PM

Here's maybe a simple solution, easily tried. Spray the back of a carpet
with 3M Spray 77, that super-duper spray adhesive. It won't glue it down
permanently, but should maybe stop the slipperies.

BTW: I had this job once, where this one guy spent far too much time on the
shop phone. The foreman commented that he must be glued to the stool by the
phone. That started my devious mind working. When no one was looking, I
goobered up the stool's seat with 77, then told the guy that he had a phone
call. So he plunks himself down on the stool to take the call.

I don't know which was funnier, watching the guy freak out as he was waving
around this stool stuck tight to his ass, or the sight of three carpenters
yanking away on the legs of that stool, trying to unstick it. Liked to've
hurt myself, I was laughing so hard!

Now if everyone is good, I'll tell the story of stapling this other spacey
guy's shoe to the floor without him noticing my work!


Doug Barnard
rebuilding a 20' Skipjack
"Fiesta Bimbo"
trawler-crawler wannabe

Here's maybe a simple solution, easily tried. Spray the back of a carpet with 3M Spray 77, that super-duper spray adhesive. It won't glue it down permanently, but should maybe stop the slipperies. BTW: I had this job once, where this one guy spent far too much time on the shop phone. The foreman commented that he must be glued to the stool by the phone. That started my devious mind working. When no one was looking, I goobered up the stool's seat with 77, then told the guy that he had a phone call. So he plunks himself down on the stool to take the call. I don't know which was funnier, watching the guy freak out as he was waving around this stool stuck tight to his ass, or the sight of three carpenters yanking away on the legs of that stool, trying to unstick it. Liked to've hurt myself, I was laughing so hard! Now if everyone is good, I'll tell the story of stapling this other spacey guy's shoe to the floor without him noticing my work! ___________________________ Doug Barnard rebuilding a 20' Skipjack "Fiesta Bimbo" trawler-crawler wannabe
J
JKT99@prodigy.net
Sat, Jun 16, 2001 2:14 PM

From: Nswift@aol.com wrote:

I received several suggestions about throw rugs with rubberized backings

that

would again stick and make marks on the teak and holly floor. Most said to
enjoy my floors and then use chemicals to remove the build-up from the
underlayment.

A rather tardy reply:

We have had success using those rubber rings from fruit canning jars (the
old Mason type jars). Just sew one under each corner, or if round or oval
rugs, sew a few around the circumference. Stops the slipping and they
haven't affected the wood floors at all. May work for you too.

Regards,

John Garrison
"Just Keel-ing Time"
Lake Norman, NC

From: <Nswift@aol.com> wrote: > I received several suggestions about throw rugs with rubberized backings that > would again stick and make marks on the teak and holly floor. Most said to > enjoy my floors and then use chemicals to remove the build-up from the > underlayment. A rather tardy reply: We have had success using those rubber rings from fruit canning jars (the old Mason type jars). Just sew one under each corner, or if round or oval rugs, sew a few around the circumference. Stops the slipping and they haven't affected the wood floors at all. May work for you too. Regards, John Garrison "Just Keel-ing Time" Lake Norman, NC
S
scaramouche@tvo.org
Sat, Jun 16, 2001 4:36 PM

When I was in the photography business we used to buy a spray-on
stuff from professional arts-supply stores, that would leave a film
so that you could pull and reposition your artwork many times.
There were two types, a permanent fixed spray and the moveable spray
(the one I'm talking about) I don't remember the correct name, but it
was from 3M  and called "moveable photomount" or something like that.
It might work for you. The spray goes on the artwork (photos), never
on the backboard which was usually white or gray cardboard type stuff
and never left a residue.

George of Scaramouche

P.s: It was NOT cheap!

When I was in the photography business we used to buy a spray-on stuff from professional arts-supply stores, that would leave a film so that you could pull and reposition your artwork many times. There were two types, a permanent fixed spray and the moveable spray (the one I'm talking about) I don't remember the correct name, but it was from 3M and called "moveable photomount" or something like that. It might work for you. The spray goes on the artwork (photos), never on the backboard which was usually white or gray cardboard type stuff and never left a residue. George of Scaramouche P.s: It was NOT cheap!