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Re: T&T: Constructing a lowering hard-top bimini

RP
Robert Phillips
Tue, Dec 31, 2013 12:52 PM

We have made a number of structures which could be lowered to reduce the height.  The simplest method is to use receivers for the deck mounts, larger diameter tube than the legs, with all of the legs parallel.  The legs slide into and out of the receivers to whatever height you want, so long as you have clearance under the deck.  Where there wasn't clearance under the deck we've made above deck receivers with triangular support legs.

We have used custom clamps on the top of the receivers when cost wasn't an issue, or just pins through both when it was.

Having done many cost analysis, the hard top will cost three to four times as much as a welded frame with coated vinyl top laced on.  You still need almost as much frame with the hard top.

Coated vinyls are as waterproof as a hardtop, much more easily removable for storms and the overall structure is generally lighter.  There are a number of examples here, http://www.doylecaribbean.com/Canvas/fixedframe.html , of welded fabric covered structures.  All of the examples' fabric is still in use with Y-Not's having 60,000 plus miles which included six Atlantic crossings and a year in the Indian Ocean since installation in 2001.  Belladonna has as many miles or more having spent three years in the Pacific from Alaska to New Zealand and popping back and forth from San Diego to here a couple of times a year.

I strongly advocate schedule 80 aluminum pipe for the structure as it is maintenance free; I have replaced almost every bit of SS on Another Asylum with aluminum because life is too short to waste it polishing SS.. The top on my fly bridge is 17' x 12', went on in 01, covered with black Shelter-Rite and the only thing I have done in twelve years is re-lace the fabric last year because the 1/8" lacing line finally gave up.  I haven't removed it for hurricanes, although I do throw a few lines over it.

Happy to help with advice; don't work long distance so not violating commercial rules on the forum.

Best,

Bob

Robert Phillips, Another Asylum
Doyle Sailmakers BVI, Ltd.
bob@doylecaribbean.com
Mobile 284-541-2206
Office 284-494-2569

We have made a number of structures which could be lowered to reduce the height. The simplest method is to use receivers for the deck mounts, larger diameter tube than the legs, with all of the legs parallel. The legs slide into and out of the receivers to whatever height you want, so long as you have clearance under the deck. Where there wasn't clearance under the deck we've made above deck receivers with triangular support legs. We have used custom clamps on the top of the receivers when cost wasn't an issue, or just pins through both when it was. Having done many cost analysis, the hard top will cost three to four times as much as a welded frame with coated vinyl top laced on. You still need almost as much frame with the hard top. Coated vinyls are as waterproof as a hardtop, much more easily removable for storms and the overall structure is generally lighter. There are a number of examples here, http://www.doylecaribbean.com/Canvas/fixedframe.html , of welded fabric covered structures. All of the examples' fabric is still in use with Y-Not's having 60,000 plus miles which included six Atlantic crossings and a year in the Indian Ocean since installation in 2001. Belladonna has as many miles or more having spent three years in the Pacific from Alaska to New Zealand and popping back and forth from San Diego to here a couple of times a year. I strongly advocate schedule 80 aluminum pipe for the structure as it is maintenance free; I have replaced almost every bit of SS on Another Asylum with aluminum because life is too short to waste it polishing SS.. The top on my fly bridge is 17' x 12', went on in 01, covered with black Shelter-Rite and the only thing I have done in twelve years is re-lace the fabric last year because the 1/8" lacing line finally gave up. I haven't removed it for hurricanes, although I do throw a few lines over it. Happy to help with advice; don't work long distance so not violating commercial rules on the forum. Best, Bob Robert Phillips, Another Asylum Doyle Sailmakers BVI, Ltd. bob@doylecaribbean.com Mobile 284-541-2206 Office 284-494-2569
J
johnesch888@sbcglobal.net
Tue, Dec 31, 2013 2:37 PM

----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Phillips" bob@doylecaribbean.com
To: trawlers@lists.trawlering.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 31, 2013 7:52 AM
Subject: Re: T&T: Constructing a lowering hard-top bimini

We have made a number of structures which could be lowered to reduce the
height.  The simplest method is to use receivers for the deck mounts,
larger diameter tube than the legs, with all of the legs parallel.  The
legs slide into and out of the receivers to whatever height you want, so
long as you have clearance under the deck.  Where there wasn't clearance
under the deck we've made above deck receivers with triangular support
legs.

We have used custom clamps on the top of the receivers when cost wasn't an
issue, or just pins through both when it was.

Having done many cost analysis, the hard top will cost three to four times
as much as a welded frame with coated vinyl top laced on.  You still need
almost as much frame with the hard top.

Coated vinyls are as waterproof as a hardtop, much more easily removable
for storms and the overall structure is generally lighter.  There are a
number of examples here,
http://www.doylecaribbean.com/Canvas/fixedframe.html , of welded fabric
covered structures.  All of the examples' fabric is still in use with
Y-Not's having 60,000 plus miles which included six Atlantic crossings and
a year in the Indian Ocean since installation in 2001.  Belladonna has as
many miles or more having spent three years in the Pacific from Alaska to
New Zealand and popping back and forth from San Diego to here a couple of
times a year.

I strongly advocate schedule 80 aluminum pipe for the structure as it is
maintenance free; I have replaced almost every bit of SS on Another Asylum
with aluminum because life is too short to waste it polishing SS.. The top
on my fly bridge is 17' x 12', went on in 01, covered with black
Shelter-Rite and the only thing I have done in twelve years is re-lace the
fabric last year because the 1/8" lacing line finally gave up.  I haven't
removed it for hurricanes, although I do throw a few lines over it.

Happy to help with advice; don't work long distance so not violating
commercial rules on the forum.

Best,

Bob

Robert Phillips, Another Asylum
Doyle Sailmakers BVI, Ltd.
bob@doylecaribbean.com
Mobile 284-541-2206
Office 284-494-2569


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----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert Phillips" <bob@doylecaribbean.com> To: <trawlers@lists.trawlering.com> Sent: Tuesday, December 31, 2013 7:52 AM Subject: Re: T&T: Constructing a lowering hard-top bimini > We have made a number of structures which could be lowered to reduce the > height. The simplest method is to use receivers for the deck mounts, > larger diameter tube than the legs, with all of the legs parallel. The > legs slide into and out of the receivers to whatever height you want, so > long as you have clearance under the deck. Where there wasn't clearance > under the deck we've made above deck receivers with triangular support > legs. > > We have used custom clamps on the top of the receivers when cost wasn't an > issue, or just pins through both when it was. > > Having done many cost analysis, the hard top will cost three to four times > as much as a welded frame with coated vinyl top laced on. You still need > almost as much frame with the hard top. > > Coated vinyls are as waterproof as a hardtop, much more easily removable > for storms and the overall structure is generally lighter. There are a > number of examples here, > http://www.doylecaribbean.com/Canvas/fixedframe.html , of welded fabric > covered structures. All of the examples' fabric is still in use with > Y-Not's having 60,000 plus miles which included six Atlantic crossings and > a year in the Indian Ocean since installation in 2001. Belladonna has as > many miles or more having spent three years in the Pacific from Alaska to > New Zealand and popping back and forth from San Diego to here a couple of > times a year. > > I strongly advocate schedule 80 aluminum pipe for the structure as it is > maintenance free; I have replaced almost every bit of SS on Another Asylum > with aluminum because life is too short to waste it polishing SS.. The top > on my fly bridge is 17' x 12', went on in 01, covered with black > Shelter-Rite and the only thing I have done in twelve years is re-lace the > fabric last year because the 1/8" lacing line finally gave up. I haven't > removed it for hurricanes, although I do throw a few lines over it. > > Happy to help with advice; don't work long distance so not violating > commercial rules on the forum. > > Best, > > Bob > > > Robert Phillips, Another Asylum > Doyle Sailmakers BVI, Ltd. > bob@doylecaribbean.com > Mobile 284-541-2206 > Office 284-494-2569 > > > > _______________________________________________ > http://lists.trawlering.com/mailman/listinfo/trawlers_lists.trawlering.com > > To unsubscribe or modify your subscription options (get password, change > email address, etc) go to: > http://lists.trawlering.com/mailman/listinfo/trawlers_lists.trawlering.com > Trawlers & Trawlering and T&T are trademarks of Water World > Productions. Unauthorized use is prohibited.