Propane stove/line installation
I'm in the process of installing a new Force 10 propane stove in
Sanderling to replace an aged electric stove. The stove is waiting to be
put in place once the propane line, solenoid and regulator are properly
connected, and that is the basis of this question.
Per ABYC standards, the flexible propane line will consist of a single
line from the stove, through the exterior bulkhead to the outside where
it will connect with the regulator. There is a male fitting on the stove
which will attach to the female fitting on the propane line. The
installation instructions that came with the stove say that no tape or
compound should be used in the fitting, but that it should be tightened
to a certain specified torque.
The question: should the fitting at the stove side be put together "dry"
or would it be more prudent to use tape or a compound such as Lock-Tite
or a joint compound made specifically for gas lines?
There will also be several fittings outside between the line, regulator,
and solenoid to which the answer may apply. All the parts meet or exceed
ABYC standards.
This isn't intended to provoke a discussion of the benefits/dangers of
propane versus electric. I'm well-aware of the potential danger of
propane if the joints are not sealed properly, and that is the reason
for this question.
--
<><><><><><><><><><><><>Mozilla Thunderbird<><><><><><><><><><>
Bob McLeran and Judy Young Manatee Cove Marina
MV Sanderling Patrick Air Force Base
Defever 41 Trawler Melbourne, Florida
Bob McLeran rmcleran@ix.netcom.com writes:
The question: should the fitting at the stove side be put together "dry"
or would it be more prudent to use tape or a compound such as Lock-Tite
or a joint compound made specifically for gas lines?
Bob,
A couple of points. First, propane fittings are compression-style fittings
which depend on a tight compression between two beveled faces. The threads do
not perform any sealing at all, but merely compress the two angled faces.
This style of fitting has many, many advantages, especially the fact that it
may be reassembled over and over. However, in order for it to work it is
imperative that there is nothing between the two faces. This includes tape
and compound.
By the way, you may wish to investigate this type of fitting for all of your
pressure applications. On Island Eagle I used JIC hydraulic fittings
exclusively for the fuel system, and Swage-Lok fittings for the hydraulic
steering and air pressure systems. Both of these styles of fittings are (a)
inexpensive (b) readily available from industrial suppliers (c) easy to
disassemble and reassemble and (d) capable of withstanding up to about 2500
PSI.
Scott Welch
Product Manager, FirstClass Group
"If we continue to take an eye for an eye, then surely the whole world will
go blind." - Gandhi
Bob,
As the fittings are brass - and a soft alloy is usually used for these
fittings - I have always been taught that they should be connected
absolutely dry with no teflon tape or dope. The reasoning is that tape or a
sealant can deteriorate with time and a tiny crack develop. Even if the
propane molecules have to pass out in single file, it can blow you up. As to
torque, I wouldn't let that deter you from attaching the fittings dry. Get
'em good and tight and then use your nose, dish soap and even a small flame
to test the joint.
Best,
Rob & Robin Dorsey
"Best Revenge"
On the Ohio
http://BestRevenge.us
-----Original Message-----
From: trawlers-and-trawlering-bounces@lists.samurai.com
[mailto:trawlers-and-trawlering-bounces@lists.samurai.com] On Behalf Of Bob
McLeran
Sent: Monday, September 10, 2007 9:35 AM
To: T-T&T List
Subject: T&T: Propane stove/line installation
I'm in the process of installing a new Force 10 propane stove in Sanderling
to replace an aged electric stove. The stove is waiting to be put in place
once the propane line, solenoid and regulator are properly connected, and
that is the basis of this question.
Per ABYC standards, the flexible propane line will consist of a single line
from the stove, through the exterior bulkhead to the outside where it will
connect with the regulator. There is a male fitting on the stove which will
attach to the female fitting on the propane line. The installation
instructions that came with the stove say that no tape or compound should be
used in the fitting, but that it should be tightened to a certain specified
torque.
The question: should the fitting at the stove side be put together "dry"
or would it be more prudent to use tape or a compound such as Lock-Tite or a
joint compound made specifically for gas lines?
There will also be several fittings outside between the line, regulator, and
solenoid to which the answer may apply. All the parts meet or exceed ABYC
standards.
This isn't intended to provoke a discussion of the benefits/dangers of
propane versus electric. I'm well-aware of the potential danger of propane
if the joints are not sealed properly, and that is the reason for this
question.
--
<><><><><><><><><><><><>Mozilla Thunderbird<><><><><><><><><><>
Bob McLeran and Judy Young Manatee Cove Marina
MV Sanderling Patrick Air Force Base
Defever 41 Trawler Melbourne, Florida
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Bob McLeran wrote:
<snip>The question: should the fitting at the stove side be put together "dry"
or would it be more prudent to use tape or a compound such as Lock-Tite
or a joint compound made specifically for gas lines?
Bob,
You'll get as many opinions on this as there are variety of fittings!
I can tell you from 25 yrs of experience in the plumbing/hvac trades
that I always use some sort of sealant or dope on pipe fittings, even
flares. I've found that the doped joints are less prone to leakage, the
dope also provides a lubricant quality to insure a good seal. Yes,
technically flares are supposed to be drawn up dry, but with brass
flares, I personally prefer to have a bit of insurance. I use "Leak
lock" blue or Rectorseal #5. No teflon tape. Draw tight, but don't go
nuts on the torque. Moderate torque with 8" wrench should do. Always
test finished lines with soap or a detector. JIC fittings are a
different animal, same with swage lok. But I think you'll find that the
typical ABYC accepted LP hose will have brass flares crimped onto the
terminations. Any threaded fittings should be assembled with dope. I
stay away from teflon tape due to the potential of shredding the tape &
having it travel into the piping & related valves, etc. If you do use
teflon, always leave the 1st two threads bare.
YMMV, of course, and there will be 'experts' out there who've never
turned a wrench ready to crucify me for my methods. <G>
steve sipe
Hi Bob:
I don't have any opinion about pipe dope, but I have, from
experience, one critical piece of advise. Make sure that there is no
excess hose under the stove. The turkeys that installed mine left a
loop which was in contact with the hot stainless surface under the
oven. If had not been for a gradual constriction of gas flow caused
by melting hose that caused me to investigate, I could well have been blown up.
Best,
Steve
Steve Dubnoff
1966 Willard Pilothouse
www.mvnereid.com
sdubnoff@circlesys.com