AK
Attila Kinali
Tue, Nov 29, 2022 9:01 AM
Moin,
I have been monitoring my lab with a homebrew sensor board based on a BME280
combined temp/hum/pressure sensor from Bosch. Unfortunately, the sensor seems
to have quite some drift. Now, 4 years later, one of them shows 30°C when
every other thermometer in the room shows ~22°C. And as temperature is
needed to for compensation of the other measurements, I can't trust those
either.
So, now I'm about to design and build a new system that has better long
terms stability.
At the moment I think I will go with separate sensors for temp, humidity
and pressure. Temperature is "easy", a PT100 will do the job nicely.
For humidity, there is the SHT line from Sensirion that is well known.
But I don't know of any decent absolute pressure sensor that is long-term
stable and doesn't cost an arm and a leg.
Does someone know a pressure sensor that is long-term stable?
Attila Kinali
--
The driving force behind research is the question: "Why?"
There are things we don't understand and things we always
wonder about. And that's why we do research.
-- Kobayashi Makoto
Moin,
I have been monitoring my lab with a homebrew sensor board based on a BME280
combined temp/hum/pressure sensor from Bosch. Unfortunately, the sensor seems
to have quite some drift. Now, 4 years later, one of them shows 30°C when
every other thermometer in the room shows ~22°C. And as temperature is
needed to for compensation of the other measurements, I can't trust those
either.
So, now I'm about to design and build a new system that has better long
terms stability.
At the moment I think I will go with separate sensors for temp, humidity
and pressure. Temperature is "easy", a PT100 will do the job nicely.
For humidity, there is the SHT line from Sensirion that is well known.
But I don't know of any decent absolute pressure sensor that is long-term
stable and doesn't cost an arm and a leg.
Does someone know a pressure sensor that is long-term stable?
Attila Kinali
--
The driving force behind research is the question: "Why?"
There are things we don't understand and things we always
wonder about. And that's why we do research.
-- Kobayashi Makoto
G
ghf@hoffmann-hochfrequenz.de
Tue, Nov 29, 2022 10:55 AM
Am 2022-11-29 10:01, schrieb Attila Kinali via time-nuts:
At the moment I think I will go with separate sensors for temp,
humidity
and pressure. Temperature is "easy", a PT100 will do the job nicely.
For humidity, there is the SHT line from Sensirion that is well known.
But I don't know of any decent absolute pressure sensor that is
long-term
stable and doesn't cost an arm and a leg.
Does someone know a pressure sensor that is long-term stable?
I have bought a sensor from Honeywell some years ago with the intent
to build an altimeter. Never tried it since since I have -7 diopt
now and I'm probably no longer air worthy as a glider pilot.
If I still can find it, you can have it. Either per mail or across
the table in the Zwickel in Dudweiler, some Friday evening.
Cheers, Gerhard
Am 2022-11-29 10:01, schrieb Attila Kinali via time-nuts:
> Moin,
> At the moment I think I will go with separate sensors for temp,
> humidity
> and pressure. Temperature is "easy", a PT100 will do the job nicely.
> For humidity, there is the SHT line from Sensirion that is well known.
> But I don't know of any decent absolute pressure sensor that is
> long-term
> stable and doesn't cost an arm and a leg.
>
> Does someone know a pressure sensor that is long-term stable?
I have bought a sensor from Honeywell some years ago with the intent
to build an altimeter. Never tried it since since I have -7 diopt
now and I'm probably no longer air worthy as a glider pilot.
If I still can find it, you can have it. Either per mail or across
the table in the Zwickel in Dudweiler, some Friday evening.
Cheers, Gerhard
PK
Poul-Henning Kamp
Tue, Nov 29, 2022 12:45 PM
So, now I'm about to design and build a new system that has better long
terms stability.
PT100 or PT1K are fine and stable for temperature.
We have no technology which can make long term stable precision
measurements of humidity and pressure: You will need periodic
calibration no matter what kit you get.
"Long" calibration periods are two years, and if you can avoid
condensation, you can get down to 0.5%RH drift over that period.
The big player in this space is Vaisala.com and they are not cheap.
Calibrating RH and pressure sensors are essentially just highschool
physics experiments, and if that's your hobby: Go for it.
You dont need to do it /all/ from scratch, see for instance:
https://store.vaisala.com/en/products/HMK15
--
Poul-Henning Kamp | UNIX since Zilog Zeus 3.20
phk@FreeBSD.ORG | TCP/IP since RFC 956
FreeBSD committer | BSD since 4.3-tahoe
Never attribute to malice what can adequately be explained by incompetence.
> So, now I'm about to design and build a new system that has better long
> terms stability.
PT100 or PT1K are fine and stable for temperature.
We have no technology which can make long term stable precision
measurements of humidity and pressure: You will need periodic
calibration no matter what kit you get.
"Long" calibration periods are two years, and if you can avoid
condensation, you can get down to 0.5%RH drift over that period.
The big player in this space is Vaisala.com and they are not cheap.
Calibrating RH and pressure sensors are essentially just highschool
physics experiments, and if that's your hobby: Go for it.
You dont need to do it /all/ from scratch, see for instance:
https://store.vaisala.com/en/products/HMK15
--
Poul-Henning Kamp | UNIX since Zilog Zeus 3.20
phk@FreeBSD.ORG | TCP/IP since RFC 956
FreeBSD committer | BSD since 4.3-tahoe
Never attribute to malice what can adequately be explained by incompetence.
FS
frank.stellmach@freenet.de
Tue, Nov 29, 2022 1:04 PM
Hello Attila,
first off, I did not investigate on this type of components deeply.
Anyhow, after reading the datasheet, this interesting BME280 from BOSCH seems to be defect, instead of having drifted.
Therefore I would suggest to simply replace that component, which is quite cheap.
For thermodynamic aspects it’s not well suited for responsive T and rH measurements, as the air has to diffuse into that small hole.
In my lab (DCV metrology with 3458A) I use meanwhile a UT330C data logger, which has 3 discrete sensors built in. For T they use a precision SMD NTC, evidently.
The case allows better air flow over the sensors.
Maybe you search for such a solution instead.
Frank
Hello Attila,
first off, I did not investigate on this type of components deeply.
Anyhow, after reading the datasheet, this interesting BME280 from BOSCH seems to be defect, instead of having drifted.\
Therefore I would suggest to simply replace that component, which is quite cheap.
For thermodynamic aspects it’s not well suited for responsive T and rH measurements, as the air has to diffuse into that small hole.
In my lab (DCV metrology with 3458A) I use meanwhile a UT330C data logger, which has 3 discrete sensors built in. For T they use a precision SMD NTC, evidently.\
The case allows better air flow over the sensors.
Maybe you search for such a solution instead.
Frank
BK
Bob kb8tq
Tue, Nov 29, 2022 2:34 PM
Hi
If you have a giant pile of bonus points on your credit card, you can go investigate
a “chilled mirror hygrometer”. There are a variety of brands. They all attempt to get
around the drift issue by taking it all back to dew point and thus a temperature reading.
They are very expensive and I’m sure there are subtle issues with them ( maybe
keeping the mirror clean ….who knows ).
For pressure, the local airport might be an adequate substitute. A lot depends on just
how much your building self pressurizes and how far that airport is from you. Building
issues can be addressed to some degree with a differential (indoor / outdoor) measurement.
Those are pretty easy to calibrate with a tube of water.
Bob
On Nov 29, 2022, at 4:01 AM, Attila Kinali via time-nuts time-nuts@lists.febo.com wrote:
Moin,
I have been monitoring my lab with a homebrew sensor board based on a BME280
combined temp/hum/pressure sensor from Bosch. Unfortunately, the sensor seems
to have quite some drift. Now, 4 years later, one of them shows 30°C when
every other thermometer in the room shows ~22°C. And as temperature is
needed to for compensation of the other measurements, I can't trust those
either.
So, now I'm about to design and build a new system that has better long
terms stability.
At the moment I think I will go with separate sensors for temp, humidity
and pressure. Temperature is "easy", a PT100 will do the job nicely.
For humidity, there is the SHT line from Sensirion that is well known.
But I don't know of any decent absolute pressure sensor that is long-term
stable and doesn't cost an arm and a leg.
Does someone know a pressure sensor that is long-term stable?
Attila Kinali
--
The driving force behind research is the question: "Why?"
There are things we don't understand and things we always
wonder about. And that's why we do research.
-- Kobayashi Makoto
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
To unsubscribe send an email to time-nuts-leave@lists.febo.com
Hi
If you have a giant pile of bonus points on your credit card, you can go investigate
a “chilled mirror hygrometer”. There are a variety of brands. They all attempt to get
around the drift issue by taking it all back to dew point and thus a temperature reading.
They are very expensive and I’m sure there are subtle issues with them ( maybe
keeping the mirror clean ….who knows ).
For pressure, the local airport might be an adequate substitute. A lot depends on just
how much your building self pressurizes and how far that airport is from you. Building
issues can be addressed to some degree with a differential (indoor / outdoor) measurement.
Those are pretty easy to calibrate with a tube of water.
Bob
> On Nov 29, 2022, at 4:01 AM, Attila Kinali via time-nuts <time-nuts@lists.febo.com> wrote:
>
> Moin,
>
> I have been monitoring my lab with a homebrew sensor board based on a BME280
> combined temp/hum/pressure sensor from Bosch. Unfortunately, the sensor seems
> to have quite some drift. Now, 4 years later, one of them shows 30°C when
> every other thermometer in the room shows ~22°C. And as temperature is
> needed to for compensation of the other measurements, I can't trust those
> either.
>
> So, now I'm about to design and build a new system that has better long
> terms stability.
>
> At the moment I think I will go with separate sensors for temp, humidity
> and pressure. Temperature is "easy", a PT100 will do the job nicely.
> For humidity, there is the SHT line from Sensirion that is well known.
> But I don't know of any decent absolute pressure sensor that is long-term
> stable and doesn't cost an arm and a leg.
>
> Does someone know a pressure sensor that is long-term stable?
>
> Attila Kinali
>
> --
> The driving force behind research is the question: "Why?"
> There are things we don't understand and things we always
> wonder about. And that's why we do research.
> -- Kobayashi Makoto
> _______________________________________________
> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
> To unsubscribe send an email to time-nuts-leave@lists.febo.com
LJ
Lux, Jim
Tue, Nov 29, 2022 3:25 PM
On 11/29/22 4:45 AM, Poul-Henning Kamp via time-nuts wrote:
So, now I'm about to design and build a new system that has better long
terms stability.
PT100 or PT1K are fine and stable for temperature.
We have no technology which can make long term stable precision
measurements of humidity and pressure: You will need periodic
calibration no matter what kit you get.
"Long" calibration periods are two years, and if you can avoid
condensation, you can get down to 0.5%RH drift over that period.
The big player in this space is Vaisala.com and they are not cheap.
Calibrating RH and pressure sensors are essentially just highschool
physics experiments, and if that's your hobby: Go for it.
You dont need to do it /all/ from scratch, see for instance:
https://store.vaisala.com/en/products/HMK15
One can measure humidity a variety of ways - one way is a dewpoint
sensor - a peltier device on a mirror and you sense the temperature at
which the mirror stops being specular. If the air is run through a
filter, then you don't need to clean it so often.
One can also measure humidity by measuring the loss or propagation speed
at microwave frequencies.
Measuring pressure or density is a bit trickier. I would think that the
standard piezoresistive aneroid sensors (sealed vacuum behind a strain
gage, typically micromachined silicon, but could also be on silica) are
long term stable. These sensors often have a significant tempco.
On 11/29/22 4:45 AM, Poul-Henning Kamp via time-nuts wrote:
>> So, now I'm about to design and build a new system that has better long
>> terms stability.
> PT100 or PT1K are fine and stable for temperature.
>
> We have no technology which can make long term stable precision
> measurements of humidity and pressure: You will need periodic
> calibration no matter what kit you get.
>
> "Long" calibration periods are two years, and if you can avoid
> condensation, you can get down to 0.5%RH drift over that period.
>
> The big player in this space is Vaisala.com and they are not cheap.
>
> Calibrating RH and pressure sensors are essentially just highschool
> physics experiments, and if that's your hobby: Go for it.
>
> You dont need to do it /all/ from scratch, see for instance:
>
> https://store.vaisala.com/en/products/HMK15
>
One can measure humidity a variety of ways - one way is a dewpoint
sensor - a peltier device on a mirror and you sense the temperature at
which the mirror stops being specular. If the air is run through a
filter, then you don't need to clean it so often.
One can also measure humidity by measuring the loss or propagation speed
at microwave frequencies.
Measuring pressure or density is a bit trickier. I would think that the
standard piezoresistive aneroid sensors (sealed vacuum behind a strain
gage, typically micromachined silicon, but could also be on silica) are
long term stable. These sensors often have a significant tempco.
E
ew
Tue, Nov 29, 2022 3:52 PM
We use a data logger from ebay for less than $70 https://www.ebay.com/itm/163587170025 see attached data
Bert Kehren
In a message dated 11/29/2022 10:38:30 AM Eastern Standard Time, time-nuts@lists.febo.com writes:https://www.ebay.com/itm/163587170025
Hello Attila, first off, I did not investigate on this type of components deeply. Anyhow, after reading the datasheet, this interesting BME280 from BOSCH seems to be defect, instead of having drifted.\Therefore I would suggest to simply replace that component, which is quite cheap. For thermodynamic aspects it’s not well suited for responsive T and rH measurements, as the air has to diffuse into that small hole. In my lab (DCV metrology with 3458A) I use meanwhile a UT330C data logger, which has 3 discrete sensors built in. For T they use a precision SMD NTC, evidently.\The case allows better air flow over the sensors. Maybe you search for such a solution instead. Frank_______________________________________________time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.comTo unsubscribe send an email to time-nuts-leave@lists.febo.com
We use a data logger from ebay for less than $70 https://www.ebay.com/itm/163587170025 see attached data
Bert Kehren
In a message dated 11/29/2022 10:38:30 AM Eastern Standard Time, time-nuts@lists.febo.com writes:https://www.ebay.com/itm/163587170025
Hello Attila, first off, I did not investigate on this type of components deeply. Anyhow, after reading the datasheet, this interesting BME280 from BOSCH seems to be defect, instead of having drifted.\Therefore I would suggest to simply replace that component, which is quite cheap. For thermodynamic aspects it’s not well suited for responsive T and rH measurements, as the air has to diffuse into that small hole. In my lab (DCV metrology with 3458A) I use meanwhile a UT330C data logger, which has 3 discrete sensors built in. For T they use a precision SMD NTC, evidently.\The case allows better air flow over the sensors. Maybe you search for such a solution instead. Frank_______________________________________________time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.comTo unsubscribe send an email to time-nuts-leave@lists.febo.com
LJ
Lux, Jim
Tue, Nov 29, 2022 4:02 PM
On 11/29/22 6:34 AM, Bob kb8tq via time-nuts wrote:
Hi
If you have a giant pile of bonus points on your credit card, you can go investigate
a “chilled mirror hygrometer”. There are a variety of brands. They all attempt to get
around the drift issue by taking it all back to dew point and thus a temperature reading.
They are very expensive and I’m sure there are subtle issues with them ( maybe
keeping the mirror clean ….who knows ).
They can be made to work quite well with contaminated atmospheres. I
was looking into building one for a meat smoker (where you need to
measure humidity at temperatures above 100C - the solid state sensors
don't work up there). The basic sensor is really simple - it's basically
an optocoupler behind a glass plate. (historically, it was a light
source and a photodetector on a prism, but I suspect that's because
"back when" the source and detector were "vacuum tubes" and you needed
something physically large.
There were two designs I saw: both "servo" around the dew point, but
some try to track the "beginnings of condensation", others ramp up and
down around the dewpoint and look for the change in reflectivity as it
crosses the dew point. I think, today, you could cobble something
together with an arduino, etc. Of course, if your time has any value,
then you might as well buy the $1000 sensor.
Dry/wet bulb also works, but requires maintenance.
For pressure, the local airport might be an adequate substitute. A lot depends on just
how much your building self pressurizes and how far that airport is from you. Building
issues can be addressed to some degree with a differential (indoor / outdoor) measurement.
Those are pretty easy to calibrate with a tube of water.
Bob
Either a manometer or a magnehelic gauge. And if you need it in digital
form, a camera looking at the water manometer. Of course, you WILL need
to correct for changes in the acceleration due to gravity for the
manometer. You could use silicone oil, so it doesn't evaporate.
https://dwyer-inst.com/series-magnehelic-2000.html
Referencing to published outdoor sensor of some sort.. I don't know how
accurate the standard weather service system is? I would think that it's
"good enough that planes are the right height" but I'll bet that's no
better than 0.01" of mercury (0.03" = 1 mbar/hPa). Note that reported
baro pressure is "reduced to sea level" using the ICAO standard
atmosphere, which is almost certainly NOT what your local atmosphere is
like. (you would need what's called "station pressure")
Fun fact - at some airports, the baro reading they report (particularly
on Unicom) comes from them having a calibrated altimeter, and then they
set it so it reads the known field (or altimeter) altitude. Then they
use the setting in the window as what they report. After all, the goal
is to have pilots all have a setting that makes the altitude read the
same as the field (plus height of sensor). FWIW, I don't recall ever
having my altimeter recalibrated in the several years I owned a plane.
Granted, you'd set to the pressure setting you're given, then check that
it reads reasonably close to the field altitude. But that's more a
check on "is it broken?".
On 11/29/22 6:34 AM, Bob kb8tq via time-nuts wrote:
> Hi
>
> If you have a giant pile of bonus points on your credit card, you can go investigate
> a “chilled mirror hygrometer”. There are a variety of brands. They all attempt to get
> around the drift issue by taking it all back to dew point and thus a temperature reading.
> They are very expensive and I’m sure there are subtle issues with them ( maybe
> keeping the mirror clean ….who knows ).
They can be made to work quite well with contaminated atmospheres. I
was looking into building one for a meat smoker (where you need to
measure humidity at temperatures above 100C - the solid state sensors
don't work up there). The basic sensor is really simple - it's basically
an optocoupler behind a glass plate. (historically, it was a light
source and a photodetector on a prism, but I suspect that's because
"back when" the source and detector were "vacuum tubes" and you needed
something physically large.
There were two designs I saw: both "servo" around the dew point, but
some try to track the "beginnings of condensation", others ramp up and
down around the dewpoint and look for the change in reflectivity as it
crosses the dew point. I think, today, you could cobble something
together with an arduino, etc. Of course, if your time has any value,
then you might as well buy the $1000 sensor.
Dry/wet bulb also works, but requires maintenance.
>
> For pressure, the local airport might be an adequate substitute. A lot depends on just
> how much your building self pressurizes and how far that airport is from you. Building
> issues can be addressed to some degree with a differential (indoor / outdoor) measurement.
> Those are pretty easy to calibrate with a tube of water.
>
> Bob
>
Either a manometer or a magnehelic gauge. And if you need it in digital
form, a camera looking at the water manometer. Of course, you WILL need
to correct for changes in the acceleration due to gravity for the
manometer. You could use silicone oil, so it doesn't evaporate.
https://dwyer-inst.com/series-magnehelic-2000.html
Referencing to published outdoor sensor of some sort.. I don't know how
accurate the standard weather service system is? I would think that it's
"good enough that planes are the right height" but I'll bet that's no
better than 0.01" of mercury (0.03" = 1 mbar/hPa). Note that reported
baro pressure is "reduced to sea level" using the ICAO standard
atmosphere, which is almost certainly NOT what your local atmosphere is
like. (you would need what's called "station pressure")
Fun fact - at some airports, the baro reading they report (particularly
on Unicom) comes from them having a calibrated altimeter, and then they
set it so it reads the known field (or altimeter) altitude. Then they
use the setting in the window as what they report. After all, the goal
is to have pilots all have a setting that makes the altitude read the
same as the field (plus height of sensor). FWIW, I don't recall ever
having my altimeter recalibrated in the several years I owned a plane.
Granted, you'd set to the pressure setting you're given, then check that
it reads reasonably close to the field altitude. But that's more a
check on "is it broken?".
B
Björn
Tue, Nov 29, 2022 5:43 PM
Many 🌙 moons ago I scored a bunch of DPM 7885 pressure sensors off eBay.
The herd of 10ish units were all inside 70cm (pressure converted to altitude by standard atmosphere model).
The local guy calibrating private aircraft altimeters was not interested. The sensors were likely superior to his (transfer) standard.
/Björn
Sent from my Phone
Measuring pressure or density is a bit trickier. I would think that the standard piezoresistive aneroid sensors (sealed vacuum behind a strain gage, typically micromachined silicon, but could also be on silica) are long term stable. These sensors often have a significant tempco.
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
To unsubscribe send an email to time-nuts-leave@lists.febo.com
Many 🌙 moons ago I scored a bunch of DPM 7885 pressure sensors off eBay.
The herd of 10ish units were all inside 70cm (pressure converted to altitude by standard atmosphere model).
The local guy calibrating private aircraft altimeters was not interested. The sensors were likely superior to his (transfer) standard.
/Björn
Sent from my Phone
> On 29 Nov 2022, at 16:49, Lux, Jim via time-nuts <time-nuts@lists.febo.com> wrote:
>
…
> Measuring pressure or density is a bit trickier. I would think that the standard piezoresistive aneroid sensors (sealed vacuum behind a strain gage, typically micromachined silicon, but could also be on silica) are long term stable. These sensors often have a significant tempco.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com
> To unsubscribe send an email to time-nuts-leave@lists.febo.com
LJ
Lux, Jim
Tue, Nov 29, 2022 7:00 PM
On 11/29/22 9:43 AM, Björn wrote:
Many 🌙 moons ago I scored a bunch of DPM 7885 pressure sensors off eBay.
The herd of 10ish units were all inside 70cm (pressure converted to altitude by standard atmosphere model).
The local guy calibrating private aircraft altimeters was not interested. The sensors were likely superior to his (transfer) standard.
/Björn
Sent from my Phone
A longer time ago (1980s) I was building SAW based pressure sensors as
altimeters - they wanted 1 foot accuracy from SL to 40,000 ft. We had a
fancy calibration setup that used some form of sensor that used a force
balance of some sort (there was this motor that moved a bead chain on
some sort of mechanical device.. I can't remember the details.)
I learned then "do not let Helium near a sensitive absolute pressure sensor"
It turns out this is a problem on ISS - the atmosphere on ISS has a
remarkably high helium concentration (a few percent IIRC) because it's
used for packaging, as a propellant, etc.
On 11/29/22 9:43 AM, Björn wrote:
> Many 🌙 moons ago I scored a bunch of DPM 7885 pressure sensors off eBay.
>
> The herd of 10ish units were all inside 70cm (pressure converted to altitude by standard atmosphere model).
>
> The local guy calibrating private aircraft altimeters was not interested. The sensors were likely superior to his (transfer) standard.
>
> /Björn
>
> Sent from my Phone
A longer time ago (1980s) I was building SAW based pressure sensors as
altimeters - they wanted 1 foot accuracy from SL to 40,000 ft. We had a
fancy calibration setup that used some form of sensor that used a force
balance of some sort (there was this motor that moved a bead chain on
some sort of mechanical device.. I can't remember the details.)
I learned then "do not let Helium near a sensitive absolute pressure sensor"
It turns out this is a problem on ISS - the atmosphere on ISS has a
remarkably high helium concentration (a few percent IIRC) because it's
used for packaging, as a propellant, etc.