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Re: T&T: Solar Panel R&D

L
lrzeitlin@aol.com
Tue, May 25, 2010 5:57 PM

Rob,
If you just want the solar panels to trickle charge your batteries
rather than supply appreciable amounts of power the task is pretty
easy. I used solar panels to keep the batteries of my sailboat charged
up for use on weekends. The boat was kept at a mooring and most
weekends the engine was not run long enough to fully charge the
batteries. For top off or charge maintenance installations fitting a
solar panel is simple. It ain't brain surgery.

First, note the size of the battery bank that you want to keep topped
up. Assume that the battery will lose about 1% of its charge per day.
This amount may vary depending on the age and quality of the battery
but 1% is a good estimate. If you have a 200 amp hour battery, the
solar panel will have to provide at least 2 amp hours per day to keep a
fully charged battery topped up.

Second, most solar panel experts maintain that a typical solar panel at
a moderate latitude, i.e. most of the continental US, will provide full
electrical output for only six hours a day. That means that on a good
day you will need a solar panel capable of putting out .333 amps to
keep the battery topped up. Given the fact that  there are occasional
clouds, a 5 watt, 12v. solar panel should do the job nicely. These are
typically sold in auto and boating stores as trickle charging batteries
and cost about $100 or less. While the nominal voltage of the battery
is 12 v. most put out between 15 to 18 volts. For safety's sake you
might want to put a diode in the line from the charger to the battery.
This will prevent a reverse flow of electricity from battery to the
solar panel if there is no panel output or a short circuit. Most solar
panels already either contain a built in diode or will not allow a
reverse flow of electricity.

Third, if the maximum output of the solar panel is less than 5% of the
capacity of the battery, you do not need a charge controller, although
putting one in the line wouldn't hurt. But for a battery and a solar
panel in this range it is just an added expense. Your 200 amp hr
battery could use up to a 10 watt solar panel with no more protection
than the in line diode.

You will have to scale these figures up or down to the size solar panel
for the batteries that you have.

Small solar panels in the under 30 watt range are sold in just about
every boating store. You can save about 20% by buying on the internet.
Just do a google search for solar panels and you will find more
information than you want to know.

Larry Z

Rob, If you just want the solar panels to trickle charge your batteries rather than supply appreciable amounts of power the task is pretty easy. I used solar panels to keep the batteries of my sailboat charged up for use on weekends. The boat was kept at a mooring and most weekends the engine was not run long enough to fully charge the batteries. For top off or charge maintenance installations fitting a solar panel is simple. It ain't brain surgery. First, note the size of the battery bank that you want to keep topped up. Assume that the battery will lose about 1% of its charge per day. This amount may vary depending on the age and quality of the battery but 1% is a good estimate. If you have a 200 amp hour battery, the solar panel will have to provide at least 2 amp hours per day to keep a fully charged battery topped up. Second, most solar panel experts maintain that a typical solar panel at a moderate latitude, i.e. most of the continental US, will provide full electrical output for only six hours a day. That means that on a good day you will need a solar panel capable of putting out .333 amps to keep the battery topped up. Given the fact that there are occasional clouds, a 5 watt, 12v. solar panel should do the job nicely. These are typically sold in auto and boating stores as trickle charging batteries and cost about $100 or less. While the nominal voltage of the battery is 12 v. most put out between 15 to 18 volts. For safety's sake you might want to put a diode in the line from the charger to the battery. This will prevent a reverse flow of electricity from battery to the solar panel if there is no panel output or a short circuit. Most solar panels already either contain a built in diode or will not allow a reverse flow of electricity. Third, if the maximum output of the solar panel is less than 5% of the capacity of the battery, you do not need a charge controller, although putting one in the line wouldn't hurt. But for a battery and a solar panel in this range it is just an added expense. Your 200 amp hr battery could use up to a 10 watt solar panel with no more protection than the in line diode. You will have to scale these figures up or down to the size solar panel for the batteries that you have. Small solar panels in the under 30 watt range are sold in just about every boating store. You can save about 20% by buying on the internet. Just do a google search for solar panels and you will find more information than you want to know. Larry Z
DM
David Marchand
Tue, May 25, 2010 7:54 PM

Bob and Larry:

While I mostly agree with Larry's recommendations, I think that his rule of
thumb of 5% for not needing a charge controller is about double too high. I
had an RV with 200 amp hours of battery capacity. I left a 32 watt solar
panel hooked up continuously for several months. Admitedly this was in
southern California with abundant sunshine. While it probably didn't hurt
the batteries, it sure used some water. I had to add water every other month
to keep the level up.

A $50 charge controller will solve that problem. You don't need a MPPT
controller just a cheap Morningstar or something similar.

David

Bob and Larry: While I mostly agree with Larry's recommendations, I think that his rule of thumb of 5% for not needing a charge controller is about double too high. I had an RV with 200 amp hours of battery capacity. I left a 32 watt solar panel hooked up continuously for several months. Admitedly this was in southern California with abundant sunshine. While it probably didn't hurt the batteries, it sure used some water. I had to add water every other month to keep the level up. A $50 charge controller will solve that problem. You don't need a MPPT controller just a cheap Morningstar or something similar. David
R
Rob
Wed, May 26, 2010 8:14 AM

Rob,

If you just want the solar panels to trickle charge your batteries
rather than supply appreciable amounts of power the task is pretty
easy<

I have 4 x 70amp batteries hooked up in two separate banks that I can
combine. I have an 85watt Solar panel mounted flat at the back of the fly
bridge. A 10amp controller is hooked into a volt meter and two switches that
I can switch the charge to either bank or both. What I do is run it to one
bank a week and then swap it over the following week. The volt meter shows
when the battery is down by the charge going in and available sun. It was a
set up suggested to me by a yachty that had a similar set (although smaller)
up for years.
It works well. I intend to leave the fridge on and see if it can keep the
charge up.
Engine batteries get charged when we use the boat off one motor, the other
charging the aforementioned banks. If they are down I can always combine
with the house bank.

I bought off the web after doing a lot of homework on how big to go. The
loss in lack of sun etc (Calder's) plus controller etc indicate bigger is
better.

Rob Harrington-Johnson
Sydney
Australia

>Rob, If you just want the solar panels to trickle charge your batteries rather than supply appreciable amounts of power the task is pretty easy< I have 4 x 70amp batteries hooked up in two separate banks that I can combine. I have an 85watt Solar panel mounted flat at the back of the fly bridge. A 10amp controller is hooked into a volt meter and two switches that I can switch the charge to either bank or both. What I do is run it to one bank a week and then swap it over the following week. The volt meter shows when the battery is down by the charge going in and available sun. It was a set up suggested to me by a yachty that had a similar set (although smaller) up for years. It works well. I intend to leave the fridge on and see if it can keep the charge up. Engine batteries get charged when we use the boat off one motor, the other charging the aforementioned banks. If they are down I can always combine with the house bank. I bought off the web after doing a lot of homework on how big to go. The loss in lack of sun etc (Calder's) plus controller etc indicate bigger is better. Rob Harrington-Johnson Sydney Australia