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TWL: gas engine not starting

JR
Jack Ray
Thu, Apr 17, 2003 1:55 PM

My new to me Tollycraft 26 could be the source of a daily inquiry of the
list, but I will try to limit my appetite for help and advice. However,
not being able to start the engine seriously cuts back on boating
enjoyment so here goes.

I have not been able to get my single gas inboard started this spring. I
bought the boat in July and it had been sitting for at least two years.
The engine, a Crusader 270 (Chevy small block), ran pretty well last
fall. I ran the old fuel out of the tanks, refilled before layup, added
Stabil and changed the water separator/fuel filter. I ran the boat
enough to insure the carb had stabilized fuel in it.

After launching the other day I brought fresh batteries aboard and tried
to start the engine. She turned over smartly, but would not start. I
checked the fuel valves and vents, OK. I checked for spark,OK. I poured
a half-ounce of gas into the carb. Started and ran a few seconds. Hmmm.
It seems the ignition system is OK, so it's a fuel thing I suppose.
Since I had just changed the fuel filter, I didn't wish to change it
again. Instead I tried hooking an outboard tank filled with straight gas
to the inlet side of the fuel pump. No go. I then disconnected the fuel
line between the fuel pump and the carb to check the fuel pump. It does
pump while cranking, but I got some water and crud in the first few
spurts. I checked the filter in the carb and it was quite dirty. I
changed it and put a new fuel line between the pump and the carb. Still
wont start. The fuel pump is a Carter that has a sight tube that will
fill with fuel if the diaphragm goes, it's dry. The only test for the
fuel pump in the service manual is a pressure test while running. It
does pump while cranking, but I am not sure about adequate volume or
pressure. Seems OK.

I am thinking I must have crud and water in the carb, or a problem with
the needle valve or float. It's a Rochester Quadrajet, and I don't feel
up to rebuilding it myself, but have a very tight boat budget (I spent
the kitchen money on the boat!). Can anyone think of anything to try
before taking the carb off? Am I correct to think that because it will
run a few seconds on gas poured into the carb that the ignition system
is OK?

I'm stumped.  I'd sure appreciate any help.

Thanks,

Jack
MV Guambiana
Near the head of navigation on the Mississippi.

------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $8.99/mo! ------

My new to me Tollycraft 26 could be the source of a daily inquiry of the list, but I will try to limit my appetite for help and advice. However, not being able to start the engine seriously cuts back on boating enjoyment so here goes. I have not been able to get my single gas inboard started this spring. I bought the boat in July and it had been sitting for at least two years. The engine, a Crusader 270 (Chevy small block), ran pretty well last fall. I ran the old fuel out of the tanks, refilled before layup, added Stabil and changed the water separator/fuel filter. I ran the boat enough to insure the carb had stabilized fuel in it. After launching the other day I brought fresh batteries aboard and tried to start the engine. She turned over smartly, but would not start. I checked the fuel valves and vents, OK. I checked for spark,OK. I poured a half-ounce of gas into the carb. Started and ran a few seconds. Hmmm. It seems the ignition system is OK, so it's a fuel thing I suppose. Since I had just changed the fuel filter, I didn't wish to change it again. Instead I tried hooking an outboard tank filled with straight gas to the inlet side of the fuel pump. No go. I then disconnected the fuel line between the fuel pump and the carb to check the fuel pump. It does pump while cranking, but I got some water and crud in the first few spurts. I checked the filter in the carb and it was quite dirty. I changed it and put a new fuel line between the pump and the carb. Still wont start. The fuel pump is a Carter that has a sight tube that will fill with fuel if the diaphragm goes, it's dry. The only test for the fuel pump in the service manual is a pressure test while running. It does pump while cranking, but I am not sure about adequate volume or pressure. Seems OK. I am thinking I must have crud and water in the carb, or a problem with the needle valve or float. It's a Rochester Quadrajet, and I don't feel up to rebuilding it myself, but have a very tight boat budget (I spent the kitchen money on the boat!). Can anyone think of anything to try before taking the carb off? Am I correct to think that because it will run a few seconds on gas poured into the carb that the ignition system is OK? I'm stumped. I'd sure appreciate any help. Thanks, Jack MV Guambiana Near the head of navigation on the Mississippi. ------ http://USFamily.Net/info - Unlimited Internet - From $8.99/mo! ------
CG
Chris Grubb
Thu, Apr 17, 2003 4:40 PM

<<<<<I have not been able to get my single gas inboard started this spring.

Jack,
I would try tapping the carb with a small brass hammer, or even a
screwdriver handle, right around where the fuel line goes in.  Don't distort
it, just little love taps.  A lot of times the needle valve will get stuck
in the closed position.  (gas in carb, float in shutoff position.  gas
evaporates, float stays put)  A lot of times a slight tapping will let the
float fall back down to the open position.  If this fixes it, be leery.
Lots of time the needle valve will stick again.  Probably at the worst
moment, such as docking in a wind.
Had this happen on a Dodge truck recently (had little use for 2 years by the
PO).  It would stick intermittently in the morning for about the first 2000
miles.  Seems ok now.  I did run some Gumout cleaner through the fuel
system.  If this does the trick, maybe you'll feel better about spending $
for a carb rebuild (or de-gum) instead of playing Guess and By Golly with
parts.
Good Luck,
Chris

<<<<<I have not been able to get my single gas inboard started this spring. >>>>> Jack, I would try tapping the carb with a small brass hammer, or even a screwdriver handle, right around where the fuel line goes in. Don't distort it, just little love taps. A lot of times the needle valve will get stuck in the closed position. (gas in carb, float in shutoff position. gas evaporates, float stays put) A lot of times a slight tapping will let the float fall back down to the open position. If this fixes it, be leery. Lots of time the needle valve will stick again. Probably at the worst moment, such as docking in a wind. Had this happen on a Dodge truck recently (had little use for 2 years by the PO). It would stick intermittently in the morning for about the first 2000 miles. Seems ok now. I did run some Gumout cleaner through the fuel system. If this does the trick, maybe you'll feel better about spending $ for a carb rebuild (or de-gum) instead of playing Guess and By Golly with parts. Good Luck, Chris
K
Keith
Fri, Apr 18, 2003 1:15 AM

You are correct, sir... but rebuilding a Qjet isn't hard at all. Just get
the kit and it should have instructions. Be sure to do it on a workbench or
someplace where you won't lose any small parts. I think it only has about a
dozen parts in the kit.

You could try spraying a can of Gumout in there while cranking... it'll run
on the Gumout and it'll clean it out well. Spray it into the throttle
bodies, and the vent tube that's sticking up. If that doesn't work, tear
into it and you'll be surprised how easy it is to rebuild.

Keith
__
Always try to keep the number of departures you make from your slip equal to
the number of returns you've made.
----- Original Message -----
<snip>

I am thinking I must have crud and water in the carb, or a problem with
the needle valve or float. It's a Rochester Quadrajet, and I don't feel
up to rebuilding it myself, but have a very tight boat budget (I spent
the kitchen money on the boat!). Can anyone think of anything to try
before taking the carb off?

You are correct, sir... but rebuilding a Qjet isn't hard at all. Just get the kit and it should have instructions. Be sure to do it on a workbench or someplace where you won't lose any small parts. I think it only has about a dozen parts in the kit. You could try spraying a can of Gumout in there while cranking... it'll run on the Gumout and it'll clean it out well. Spray it into the throttle bodies, and the vent tube that's sticking up. If that doesn't work, tear into it and you'll be surprised how easy it is to rebuild. Keith __ Always try to keep the number of departures you make from your slip equal to the number of returns you've made. ----- Original Message ----- <snip> > > I am thinking I must have crud and water in the carb, or a problem with > the needle valve or float. It's a Rochester Quadrajet, and I don't feel > up to rebuilding it myself, but have a very tight boat budget (I spent > the kitchen money on the boat!). Can anyone think of anything to try > before taking the carb off? > >
JA
Jim Alexander
Fri, Apr 18, 2003 2:49 AM

At 08:15 PM 4/17/03 -0500, you wrote:

You are correct, sir... but rebuilding a Qjet isn't hard at all. Just get
the kit and it should have instructions. Be sure to do it on a workbench or
someplace where you won't lose any small parts. I think it only has about a
dozen parts in the kit.

You could try spraying a can of Gumout in there while cranking... it'll run
on the Gumout and it'll clean it out well. Spray it into the throttle
bodies, and the vent tube that's sticking up. If that doesn't work, tear
into it and you'll be surprised how easy it is to rebuild.

Keith

Jack,

I hate to be the one to disagree with the above, but having rebuilt
probably 100 carbs of various types, even ones that were supposedly just
rebuilt by an amateur, I have to speak up here.  While carb rebuilding to
someone with the right equipment, which includes not just a can of carb
spray but a proper soak tank, tools and an air compressor to allow blowing
out the passages, rebuilding a carb properly can have a lot of
pit-falls.  Especially to someone who has never done one under proper
supervision.  Lacking both the proper equipment and prior experience I
think having the carb professionally done is the right thing to do here.

Jim Alexander, Realtor
Vista 43
Port Charlotte, FL

At 08:15 PM 4/17/03 -0500, you wrote: >You are correct, sir... but rebuilding a Qjet isn't hard at all. Just get >the kit and it should have instructions. Be sure to do it on a workbench or >someplace where you won't lose any small parts. I think it only has about a >dozen parts in the kit. > >You could try spraying a can of Gumout in there while cranking... it'll run >on the Gumout and it'll clean it out well. Spray it into the throttle >bodies, and the vent tube that's sticking up. If that doesn't work, tear >into it and you'll be surprised how easy it is to rebuild. > > >Keith Jack, I hate to be the one to disagree with the above, but having rebuilt probably 100 carbs of various types, even ones that were supposedly just rebuilt by an amateur, I have to speak up here. While carb rebuilding to someone with the right equipment, which includes not just a can of carb spray but a proper soak tank, tools and an air compressor to allow blowing out the passages, rebuilding a carb properly can have a lot of pit-falls. Especially to someone who has never done one under proper supervision. Lacking both the proper equipment and prior experience I think having the carb professionally done is the right thing to do here. Jim Alexander, Realtor Vista 43 Port Charlotte, FL
FB
Frank Burrows
Fri, Apr 18, 2003 3:09 AM

I have to agree with Jim that successfully rebuilding a carburetor if you
have never done it before is not all that easy. The second issue is that a
no start condition is not normally associated with a carburetor. Once
someone has walked you through what is inside a carburetor and if you know
what you are looking for it is not rocket science. I can remember a 2 day
GM school on Quadrajets and I was not bored.

Frank Burrows

. but rebuilding a Qjet isn't hard at all.

I have to agree with Jim that successfully rebuilding a carburetor if you have never done it before is not all that easy. The second issue is that a no start condition is not normally associated with a carburetor. Once someone has walked you through what is inside a carburetor and if you know what you are looking for it is not rocket science. I can remember a 2 day GM school on Quadrajets and I was not bored. Frank Burrows >>. but rebuilding a Qjet isn't hard at all.
AJ
Arild Jensen
Fri, Apr 18, 2003 6:39 AM

-----Original Message-----
Keith wrote:
but rebuilding a Qjet isn't hard at all. Just get the kit and it should have
instructions. Be sure to do it on a workbench or
someplace where you won't lose any small parts. I think it only has about a
dozen parts in the kit.

REPLY

Having specialized in tinkering with Q-jets for about 9 years  while racing on
older corvette I  am inclined to  agree that  rebuilding one of these is not a
good idea for a beginner who has not  done it before.

Furthermore,  it is getting very difficult to find  rebuild kits  of
conventional carbs.
GM started  the switch over to fuel injection  back in  the mid eighties.
My 1986  Buick had an electric Q-jet  and by 1988 it was completely
electronic - throttle body injection.

Auto parts stores  had to special order  Q-jet  carb kits  since only specialty
shops  bother to rebuild them.

regards

Arild


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-----Original Message----- Keith wrote: but rebuilding a Qjet isn't hard at all. Just get the kit and it should have instructions. Be sure to do it on a workbench or someplace where you won't lose any small parts. I think it only has about a dozen parts in the kit. REPLY Having specialized in tinkering with Q-jets for about 9 years while racing on older corvette I am inclined to agree that rebuilding one of these is not a good idea for a beginner who has not done it before. Furthermore, it is getting very difficult to find rebuild kits of conventional carbs. GM started the switch over to fuel injection back in the mid eighties. My 1986 Buick had an electric Q-jet and by 1988 it was completely electronic - throttle body injection. Auto parts stores had to special order Q-jet carb kits since only specialty shops bother to rebuild them. regards Arild --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.423 / Virus Database: 238 - Release Date: 11/25/2002
RR
Ron Rogers
Fri, Apr 18, 2003 3:11 PM

Locally, a new Edelbrock copy of the old Carter 4 barrel cost the same as a
professional rebuild. In fact, the Edelbrock was labeled as a factory
rebuild, but was in fact new. The auto version has all the marine components
and is cheaper. With the carb professionally installed, the engine ran
better at low speed and was quieter. And now, I bought a diesel.

Ron Rogers
Annapolis, MD
{8^0)

Locally, a new Edelbrock copy of the old Carter 4 barrel cost the same as a professional rebuild. In fact, the Edelbrock was labeled as a factory rebuild, but was in fact new. The auto version has all the marine components and is cheaper. With the carb professionally installed, the engine ran better at low speed and was quieter. And now, I bought a diesel. Ron Rogers Annapolis, MD {8^0)