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TWL: 120VAC Fans

T
TSmith6410@aol.com
Wed, Feb 27, 2002 11:43 PM

Suggestions for 120 VAC portable fans for engine room use?

They would be used during summer engine room maintenance chores to cool me,
and to run 7 x 24 to prevent mildew,  and / or to cool the fuel polishing
pump when it's being used.  That pump runs at 105F when the engine room is at
85F.  For you non-tropically-challenged types, that's 85F without the engines
/ genset having been run in days.  8-)

Don't be confused. These portable units would NOT be used for engine room
ventilation.  There are separate 12VDC fans for that.

We've used several 10" - 12" portable 120VAC fans in the engine room.  The
problem is the fans don't hold up long when exposed to summer operating
temperatures of 120 - 130 deg F.  Their bearings seem to go; perhaps lose
lubrication?  Corrosion is NOT a problem.

Would rather pay a little more for durable fans that I can leave in the E/R
rather than storing them elsewhere until needed.  They're needed from May -
October so otherwise that'd be a lot of back-and-forth.

No joy in the Grainger catalog or my attempts at internet searches or local
stores.  Local stores naturally enough only stock standard household fans.

My backup plan is to buy 12" standard 120VAC fans and just replace them
annually.  (I got nervous when first discovering the problem.  I turned off a
fan, and the blade stopped instantly vs. coasting down.  When I turned it
back on, it had a different / unappealing sound.  I don't like to think of a
fan running 7 x 24 in the E/R that could overheat or short.)

Terry & Christine Smith
M/V "Fiddler's Green"
Great Harbour 37 - #14
Houston, TX

Suggestions for 120 VAC portable fans for engine room use? They would be used during summer engine room maintenance chores to cool me, and to run 7 x 24 to prevent mildew, and / or to cool the fuel polishing pump when it's being used. That pump runs at 105F when the engine room is at 85F. For you non-tropically-challenged types, that's 85F without the engines / genset having been run in days. 8-) Don't be confused. These portable units would NOT be used for engine room ventilation. There are separate 12VDC fans for that. We've used several 10" - 12" portable 120VAC fans in the engine room. The problem is the fans don't hold up long when exposed to summer operating temperatures of 120 - 130 deg F. Their bearings seem to go; perhaps lose lubrication? Corrosion is NOT a problem. Would rather pay a little more for durable fans that I can leave in the E/R rather than storing them elsewhere until needed. They're needed from May - October so otherwise that'd be a lot of back-and-forth. No joy in the Grainger catalog or my attempts at internet searches or local stores. Local stores naturally enough only stock standard household fans. My backup plan is to buy 12" standard 120VAC fans and just replace them annually. (I got nervous when first discovering the problem. I turned off a fan, and the blade stopped instantly vs. coasting down. When I turned it back on, it had a different / unappealing sound. I don't like to think of a fan running 7 x 24 in the E/R that could overheat or short.) Terry & Christine Smith M/V "Fiddler's Green" Great Harbour 37 - #14 Houston, TX
S
scaramouche@tvo.org
Wed, Feb 27, 2002 11:53 PM

Suggestions for 120 VAC portable fans for engine room use?

I retired from 25 years working with mainframe computers. We used an item called "muffin-fan" to cool circuits and power supplies. Never seen one of them pack-in. You should be able to get them from computer surplus stores.
I'm not talking Radio-Shack type fans, but heavy duty, sealed bearing, impedance protected, industrial continuous rated fans. Those things are not cheap, but they are indestructable. Try service departments of IBM, Amdal, Honeywell, CDC etc for a source.
Arild, can you suggest a supplier?

George of Scaramouche, Lake Ontario

TSmith6410@aol.com writes: >Suggestions for 120 VAC portable fans for engine room use? I retired from 25 years working with mainframe computers. We used an item called "muffin-fan" to cool circuits and power supplies. Never seen one of them pack-in. You should be able to get them from computer surplus stores. I'm not talking Radio-Shack type fans, but heavy duty, sealed bearing, impedance protected, industrial continuous rated fans. Those things are not cheap, but they are indestructable. Try service departments of IBM, Amdal, Honeywell, CDC etc for a source. Arild, can you suggest a supplier? George of Scaramouche, Lake Ontario
A
arider@bellsouth.net
Thu, Feb 28, 2002 12:04 AM

One more thought would be to use a thermostatically controlled attic
ventilation fan found at the home stores.  The thermostat would be a plus. I
believe they are 12" fans.  The type sold for a gables would be the best
because it would come without the roof flashing and encased in a round
shroud with mounting flanges.  They do not have a fan screen/grille, but are
rated for use in a hot attic and continuous duty.  My experience is that
they last only a few seasons based on the amount of fans we replace each
year.  When the bearing gets dry, they make a sound that you won't
miss..........
I think they are brushless and would not be a fire hazard.  I would be sure
that any fan is installed with a properly rated circuit breaker even a plug
strip with a breaker built in is fine.

Bob Clinkenbeard
M/V Twin Screws
1964 Chris Craft Roamer 56'
Under reconstruction in Savannah

----- Original Message -----
From: TSmith6410@aol.com
To: trawler-world-list@samurai.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2002 6:43 PM
Subject: TWL: 120VAC Fans

Suggestions for 120 VAC portable fans for engine room use?

They would be used during summer engine room maintenance chores to cool

me,

and to run 7 x 24 to prevent mildew,  and / or to cool the fuel polishing
pump when it's being used.  That pump runs at 105F when the engine room is

at

85F.  For you non-tropically-challenged types, that's 85F without the

engines

/ genset having been run in days.  8-)

Don't be confused. These portable units would NOT be used for engine room
ventilation.  There are separate 12VDC fans for that.

We've used several 10" - 12" portable 120VAC fans in the engine room.  The
problem is the fans don't hold up long when exposed to summer operating
temperatures of 120 - 130 deg F.  Their bearings seem to go; perhaps lose
lubrication?  Corrosion is NOT a problem.

Would rather pay a little more for durable fans that I can leave in the

E/R

rather than storing them elsewhere until needed.  They're needed from

May -

October so otherwise that'd be a lot of back-and-forth.

No joy in the Grainger catalog or my attempts at internet searches or

local

stores.  Local stores naturally enough only stock standard household fans.

My backup plan is to buy 12" standard 120VAC fans and just replace them
annually.  (I got nervous when first discovering the problem.  I turned

off a

fan, and the blade stopped instantly vs. coasting down.  When I turned it
back on, it had a different / unappealing sound.  I don't like to think of

a

fan running 7 x 24 in the E/R that could overheat or short.)

Terry & Christine Smith
M/V "Fiddler's Green"
Great Harbour 37 - #14
Houston, TX

One more thought would be to use a thermostatically controlled attic ventilation fan found at the home stores. The thermostat would be a plus. I believe they are 12" fans. The type sold for a gables would be the best because it would come without the roof flashing and encased in a round shroud with mounting flanges. They do not have a fan screen/grille, but are rated for use in a hot attic and continuous duty. My experience is that they last only a few seasons based on the amount of fans we replace each year. When the bearing gets dry, they make a sound that you won't miss.......... I think they are brushless and would not be a fire hazard. I would be sure that any fan is installed with a properly rated circuit breaker even a plug strip with a breaker built in is fine. Bob Clinkenbeard M/V Twin Screws 1964 Chris Craft Roamer 56' Under reconstruction in Savannah ----- Original Message ----- From: <TSmith6410@aol.com> To: <trawler-world-list@samurai.com> Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2002 6:43 PM Subject: TWL: 120VAC Fans > Suggestions for 120 VAC portable fans for engine room use? > > They would be used during summer engine room maintenance chores to cool me, > and to run 7 x 24 to prevent mildew, and / or to cool the fuel polishing > pump when it's being used. That pump runs at 105F when the engine room is at > 85F. For you non-tropically-challenged types, that's 85F without the engines > / genset having been run in days. 8-) > > Don't be confused. These portable units would NOT be used for engine room > ventilation. There are separate 12VDC fans for that. > > We've used several 10" - 12" portable 120VAC fans in the engine room. The > problem is the fans don't hold up long when exposed to summer operating > temperatures of 120 - 130 deg F. Their bearings seem to go; perhaps lose > lubrication? Corrosion is NOT a problem. > > Would rather pay a little more for durable fans that I can leave in the E/R > rather than storing them elsewhere until needed. They're needed from May - > October so otherwise that'd be a lot of back-and-forth. > > No joy in the Grainger catalog or my attempts at internet searches or local > stores. Local stores naturally enough only stock standard household fans. > > My backup plan is to buy 12" standard 120VAC fans and just replace them > annually. (I got nervous when first discovering the problem. I turned off a > fan, and the blade stopped instantly vs. coasting down. When I turned it > back on, it had a different / unappealing sound. I don't like to think of a > fan running 7 x 24 in the E/R that could overheat or short.) > > Terry & Christine Smith > M/V "Fiddler's Green" > Great Harbour 37 - #14 > Houston, TX >
E
elnav@uniserve.com
Thu, Feb 28, 2002 1:21 AM

At 06:43 PM 02/27/2002 EST, TSmith6410@aol.com wrote:

Suggestions for 120 VAC portable fans for engine room use?

They would be used during summer engine room maintenance chores to cool me,
and to run 7 x 24 to prevent mildew,
No joy in the Grainger catalog or my attempts at internet searches or local
stores.  Local stores naturally enough only stock standard household fans.

REPLY
The topic of cooling  fans is very apropo considering  I just experienced a
computer meltdown as a result of  cooling fan problem.

I would suggest looking for industrial grade fans;  NOT  consumer quality.
Honeywell, Johnson Controls or any  other HVAC  equipment suppliers.

BTW,  I also suggest  looking at  installing them permanently in a secure
manner.
As for the salt air environment, consider that any house built  close to
shore is experiencing the same moist salt air as a boat docked in a marina.
All the  bigger yachts  have such installations  as part of the  original
design.
Delta T  is one  popular brand of  equipment supplier.  They have variable
speed AC fans.
While not cheap they  do stand up for years of service.
But then so does any number of HVAC  brands  in Florida, Texas and S.
California.

Regards
Arild

At 06:43 PM 02/27/2002 EST, TSmith6410@aol.com wrote: >Suggestions for 120 VAC portable fans for engine room use? > >They would be used during summer engine room maintenance chores to cool me, >and to run 7 x 24 to prevent mildew, >No joy in the Grainger catalog or my attempts at internet searches or local >stores. Local stores naturally enough only stock standard household fans. REPLY The topic of cooling fans is very apropo considering I just experienced a computer meltdown as a result of cooling fan problem. I would suggest looking for industrial grade fans; NOT consumer quality. Honeywell, Johnson Controls or any other HVAC equipment suppliers. BTW, I also suggest looking at installing them permanently in a secure manner. As for the salt air environment, consider that any house built close to shore is experiencing the same moist salt air as a boat docked in a marina. All the bigger yachts have such installations as part of the original design. Delta T is one popular brand of equipment supplier. They have variable speed AC fans. While not cheap they do stand up for years of service. But then so does any number of HVAC brands in Florida, Texas and S. California. Regards Arild
E
elnav@uniserve.com
Thu, Feb 28, 2002 1:43 AM

The request  for suggestions on 120V fans  struck close to home.

Last week I suffered a computer crash. Things went from bad to worse in a
domino seriss of events.
First the hard drive crashed, then the  monitor died, th the  video card
went south and  finally the CPU and  also the power supply had to be
replaced.  Although I had done some backups, when the  main computer
failed I had no means of accessing the  backed up data.
No sooner than I fixed one thing than the next crashed.  Itss been fun!  <
NOT >  ;-((((

What really hurt is the fact I know btter;  but forgot!
Electronics need cooling air and fans get dusty.  They need maintenance.
Trouble is,  when the blades are spinning 24/7  you don't see the dust and
tend to forget.

The computer was purchased  back in May 1998 and has been left running
pretty well  constantly.
The CPU ( which has a fan on a heat sink  cooked causing the  computer to
hiccup and screw up timing control signals and  other functions.  That may
have contributed to the hard disk crash.
A surface scann showed about 50 hits where the magnetic media is damaged.

The clogged  power supply fan  which normally pulls air through the
computer cabinet  slowed down and caused tthe power supply to cook.
Whether this caused voltage  spikes  or not is  a moot point.
Lack of cooling for the built in monitor most likely caused  it  to fail,
burning out the cathode tube heater.

Well I had to replace all the cooling fans plus the other  damaged
components and equipment.
If there is a lesson to be learned its this.

Filter the air if possible.
Check and clean the filters often.
If in doubt use a cheap indoor/outdoor type thermometer  as a sensor  and
put the display wher you can see it.
At less than $10  USD  each this is a low cost upgrade, that pays big
dividends.

What has this got to do with boats?    PLENTY!!
On board boats  we tend to  cram all sorts of stuff into every nook  and
cranny; often without consideration for adequate airflow.
In my case I built the  computer into a combination desk-wall unit  in my
motorhome much as you might do on a boat.
Had the unit been sitting out in the open on a tesk top  chances are it
would not have gotten so clogged, or else I would have noticed it sooner.
It might also have kept cooler and thus lived longer.

As for longevity, the  fact these fans ran 24/7 since 1998  is a good
indication that ball bearing fans do last longer and  are worth the money.
However,  cooling a cabinet is not the same as  coling an entire engine room.
Check the CFM  rating of the fans you plan to use.
Look for a complete air change every 30  minutes  for ventilation (
mustiness ), every two to ten minutes if you also want cooling.

Cheers

Arild

The request for suggestions on 120V fans struck close to home. Last week I suffered a computer crash. Things went from bad to worse in a domino seriss of events. First the hard drive crashed, then the monitor died, th the video card went south and finally the CPU and also the power supply had to be replaced. Although I had done some backups, when the main computer failed I had no means of accessing the backed up data. No sooner than I fixed one thing than the next crashed. Itss been fun! < NOT > ;-(((( What really hurt is the fact I know btter; but forgot! Electronics need cooling air and fans get dusty. They need maintenance. Trouble is, when the blades are spinning 24/7 you don't see the dust and tend to forget. The computer was purchased back in May 1998 and has been left running pretty well constantly. The CPU ( which has a fan on a heat sink cooked causing the computer to hiccup and screw up timing control signals and other functions. That may have contributed to the hard disk crash. A surface scann showed about 50 hits where the magnetic media is damaged. The clogged power supply fan which normally pulls air through the computer cabinet slowed down and caused tthe power supply to cook. Whether this caused voltage spikes or not is a moot point. Lack of cooling for the built in monitor most likely caused it to fail, burning out the cathode tube heater. Well I had to replace all the cooling fans plus the other damaged components and equipment. If there is a lesson to be learned its this. Filter the air if possible. Check and clean the filters often. If in doubt use a cheap indoor/outdoor type thermometer as a sensor and put the display wher you can see it. At less than $10 USD each this is a low cost upgrade, that pays big dividends. What has this got to do with boats? PLENTY!! On board boats we tend to cram all sorts of stuff into every nook and cranny; often without consideration for adequate airflow. In my case I built the computer into a combination desk-wall unit in my motorhome much as you might do on a boat. Had the unit been sitting out in the open on a tesk top chances are it would not have gotten so clogged, or else I would have noticed it sooner. It might also have kept cooler and thus lived longer. As for longevity, the fact these fans ran 24/7 since 1998 is a good indication that ball bearing fans do last longer and are worth the money. However, cooling a cabinet is not the same as coling an entire engine room. Check the CFM rating of the fans you plan to use. Look for a complete air change every 30 minutes for ventilation ( mustiness ), every two to ten minutes if you also want cooling. Cheers Arild
E
elnav@uniserve.com
Thu, Feb 28, 2002 3:34 AM

At 05:43 PM 02/27/2002 -0800, Arild Jensen wrote:

Last week I suffered a computer crash. Things went from bad to worse in a
domino seriss of events.

snip<<<

POST SCRIPT
Judging from tthe  number of misssing characters  and double hitts, looks
like a new keyboard or  sometthing elsse on the mother board still needs
replacement.  - Sorry about the typos!  < grin>

Arild

At 05:43 PM 02/27/2002 -0800, Arild Jensen wrote: >Last week I suffered a computer crash. Things went from bad to worse in a >domino seriss of events. >>> snip<<< POST SCRIPT Judging from tthe number of misssing characters and double hitts, looks like a new keyboard or sometthing elsse on the mother board still needs replacement. - Sorry about the typos! < grin> Arild
GM
Gregg.McKay@telus.net
Thu, Feb 28, 2002 5:57 AM

<<<<<Judging from tthe number of misssing characters and double hitts...>>>>>

Arild:  On a software course I took once, those were referred to as
PEBCAK errors.

(problem exists between chair and keyboard)

Gregg

<<<<<Judging from tthe number of misssing characters and double hitts...>>>>> Arild: On a software course I took once, those were referred to as PEBCAK errors. (problem exists between chair and keyboard) Gregg
S
scaramouche@tvo.org
Thu, Feb 28, 2002 3:27 PM

I would suggest looking for industrial grade fans;  NOT  consumer quality.
Honeywell, Johnson Controls or any  other HVAC  equipment suppliers.

Arild: Thanks for including my favourite company name: "Honeywell". (I concur)
I'm getting a lifetime pension from them. Enough to never having to work again -- so I took up boating and leasing out sailboats (had six there for a while). Did I say never having to work again?  <VBG>

George

BTW: Did you see Larry's reply to mine re muffin fans?

elnav@uniserve.com writes: >I would suggest looking for industrial grade fans; NOT consumer quality. >Honeywell, Johnson Controls or any other HVAC equipment suppliers. Arild: Thanks for including my favourite company name: "Honeywell". (I concur) I'm getting a lifetime pension from them. Enough to never having to work again -- so I took up boating and leasing out sailboats (had six there for a while). Did I say never having to work again? <VBG> George BTW: Did you see Larry's reply to mine re muffin fans?
N
Nunas@pacific.net.sg
Thu, Feb 28, 2002 10:31 PM

This brings to mind something that I once wrote in about to Living
Aboard Magazine, but which I probably did not mention here.  That is,
one can overcome the cooling problem by tying a small auxiliary fan to
the unit you want to cool.

For example, we have a built in microwave oven the cabinet for which has
totally inadequate ventilation.  The original owner put a 240-volt
computer fan on a switch in the cabinet, to cool it.  The problem is one
often forgets to switch on the fan; just about as often the fan gets
left on (as it is very quiet) and, if you leave the boat, runs 24/7.

Another example is the little Norcold fridge on our previous boat.  It
ran for hours on end until we added a tiny 12-volt auxiliary fan and cut
a hole so that the heat could escape.

We have found that there is generally some place where you can find
switched 12-volts or mains voltage in an appliance.  In the case of our
microwave oven, it was the internal light bulb.  We added a socket at
the back of the microwave, labelled it "fan" and hooked it to the aux
fan.  For the fridge, it was the compressor.  The only thing you have to
watch for is that modern appliances sometimes have fairly light-duty
switching, often solid state; use a fan that is just big enough to do
the job and not some big honking blower that will draw too much current
and destroy the device you wish to save!

In the case of the fuel pump in the original thread, it ought to be a
simple matter to rig a computer fan across the pump wires and mount it
next to the pump.

As for toiling in a sweaty engine room, here on the equator we have
experience!  We have not found that it is necessary to run a fan 24/7 to
control mildew; I'd look for the source of the problem for that.  Is the
bilge wetter than it could be?  Is there a lot of unpainted wood that
can trap humidity?  Stuff like that.  To cool myself, I just open a
hatch or two and place strategically a fan to blow the cooler air from
the cabin down into the engine or  mechanical rooms.

Smooth seas,
Maurice & Louise-Ann Nunas
AKAMA, KK Whaleback #2
Raffles Marina, Singapore

-----Original Message <snipped>-----
From: owner-trawler-world-list@samurai.com
[mailto:owner-trawler-world-list@samurai.com] On Behalf Of Arild Jensen

On board boats  we tend to  cram all sorts of stuff into every nook  and
cranny; often without consideration for adequate airflow.
In my case I built the  computer into a combination desk-wall unit  in
my
motorhome much as you might do on a boat.

This brings to mind something that I once wrote in about to Living Aboard Magazine, but which I probably did not mention here. That is, one can overcome the cooling problem by tying a small auxiliary fan to the unit you want to cool. For example, we have a built in microwave oven the cabinet for which has totally inadequate ventilation. The original owner put a 240-volt computer fan on a switch in the cabinet, to cool it. The problem is one often forgets to switch on the fan; just about as often the fan gets left on (as it is very quiet) and, if you leave the boat, runs 24/7. Another example is the little Norcold fridge on our previous boat. It ran for hours on end until we added a tiny 12-volt auxiliary fan and cut a hole so that the heat could escape. We have found that there is generally some place where you can find switched 12-volts or mains voltage in an appliance. In the case of our microwave oven, it was the internal light bulb. We added a socket at the back of the microwave, labelled it "fan" and hooked it to the aux fan. For the fridge, it was the compressor. The only thing you have to watch for is that modern appliances sometimes have fairly light-duty switching, often solid state; use a fan that is just big enough to do the job and not some big honking blower that will draw too much current and destroy the device you wish to save! In the case of the fuel pump in the original thread, it ought to be a simple matter to rig a computer fan across the pump wires and mount it next to the pump. As for toiling in a sweaty engine room, here on the equator we have experience! We have not found that it is necessary to run a fan 24/7 to control mildew; I'd look for the source of the problem for that. Is the bilge wetter than it could be? Is there a lot of unpainted wood that can trap humidity? Stuff like that. To cool myself, I just open a hatch or two and place strategically a fan to blow the cooler air from the cabin down into the engine or mechanical rooms. Smooth seas, Maurice & Louise-Ann Nunas AKAMA, KK Whaleback #2 Raffles Marina, Singapore -----Original Message <snipped>----- From: owner-trawler-world-list@samurai.com [mailto:owner-trawler-world-list@samurai.com] On Behalf Of Arild Jensen On board boats we tend to cram all sorts of stuff into every nook and cranny; often without consideration for adequate airflow. In my case I built the computer into a combination desk-wall unit in my motorhome much as you might do on a boat.
C
cculotta@iamerica.net
Fri, Mar 1, 2002 12:02 AM

Nunas mentions toiling in a hot engine room.
What I did was mount a nice 12 inch osculating  house hold style fan in the
engine room. When working just turn it on and it  REALLY  helps. It is so
easy , why did it take me so long to do it!!!!!
CCC
LETS ROLL
CHARLES and PAT CULOTTA
Patterson, La.
http://www.geocities.com/charlesculotta/

Nunas mentions toiling in a hot engine room. What I did was mount a nice 12 inch osculating house hold style fan in the engine room. When working just turn it on and it REALLY helps. It is so easy , why did it take me so long to do it!!!!! CCC LETS ROLL CHARLES and PAT CULOTTA Patterson, La. http://www.geocities.com/charlesculotta/