In a message dated 24-12-98 19:13:18 PM Eastern Standard Time, TOBYBOAT writes: << Subj: Re: Lurker comes out <<Date: 24-12-98 19:13:18 PM Eastern Standard Time << From: TOBYBOAT <<To: Steely8049 << Chuck, <snip> << I am interested in what you did for your decks? There is a Gulfstar in the <<slip in back of mine with bad decks that I think will go at a low price when finally <<sold. It is an early -- maybe 73 - and the decks are -- as you say a trampoline. << Did you take the deck up or go up form inside. Since the G. Star has no <<teak I was thinking of going up from inside. << Ken I originally send this as private to TOBYBOAT but it may be of interest to the list. As he did not have a teak deck too worry about I didn't mention the part about ripping up the old teak, the crystallized screws, and removing the black gunk the teak was set in. Here is my reply: << I went at it from the top. Here in brief is what I did: 1. Using a right angle grinder cut up the top layer in sections roughly 3' long staying about 1" in from the trough next to the toe rail and the cabin side. 2. The old core was 1/2" plywood in about 8' squares. All of it was delaminated, soaking wet, and usually easy to remove. 3. Used a variety of chisels, linoleum cutter, and wire brush wheel on an electric drill to remove the residue under the intact glass at the edges resulting from the cuts in #1 above. Also sand and grind the upper surface, now revealed, of the underside layer of glass. The boat builder had make about 1" diameter holes in the original plywood core and filled them with glass evidently as support for the top glass layer. These usually could be knocked off with a hammer then ground down smooth. I considered it essential to get this exposed layer of glass clean of all traces of the old core and whatever is was attached with. 4. I replaced the old core with 1/2" PVC, high density foam, bedded in an epoxy slurry. I used WEST system and their adhesive filler. The foam MUST BE SANDED with about 60 grit sand paper to roughen its surface or the epoxy WILL NOT make a firm bond. 5. After thoroughly cleaning the old top layer I replaced it with a similar epoxy slurry. The top layer would not lay down smoothly so I used a combination of weights, mostly gallon jugs of water and concrete blocks to make it behave. Also sometimes used self tapping pan head screws to hold it firmly down if the weights were not suitable. The screws I sprayed with PAM so they could be easily removed when the epoxy set up. The weights were sat on plastic 5 mm sheet so they wouldn't stick. 6. This surface was next sanded smooth with a belt sander, valleys filled with Bondo in non critical areas, or epoxy mixed to a peanut butter consistency in more critical joint areas. 7. For an edge along the trough next to toe rail I ripped the old teak into 3/4" strips, quarter rounded one side on a shaper, and fixed with them epoxy down the edge of what would be the new deck. This was to hide and protect the exposed edge of the new PVC foam and glass which was to come. 8. On top of the replaced old glass I bedded a single layer of fiberglass mat, and topped it with a layer of 1'4" PVC high density foam again bedded in an epoxy slurry. 9. All seams that were not tight fitting were filled and smoothed with epoxy putty. 10. On top of this layer of foam I applied two layer of biaxial fiberglass mat. 11. This top layer of foam and glass covered all sins, brought the deck level back to the height of the old teak deck, and smoothed the decks surface . Now this is where I ended last October as I had to haul the boat and weather was getting too cold in my opinion to continue. Besides I was worn out as I had started this project in mid-June and it was a one man operation all along. In the spring I plan to sand the deck smooth apply a coating of epoxy tinted white and then nonskid it. I'm open to ideas on the nonskid part. I did not tear up the whole deck at once but worked in sections of about 5 - 6 feet at a time up to the point of adding the 1/4" layer of foam. I didn't want the cabin to fall into the bilge or something equally discouraging to happen. I was also very lucky that northern Virginia had one of the driest summers on record so having it rain and then having to figure out how to dry everything before going on did not occur. Would be best to do this project under cover. This was my first experience doing something like this. Not sure its the right way but right now I have a deck that is solid as a rock, does not leak, and looks pretty good. Maybe not as salty as teak but suits me. If I have not been clear on some points or if you have any other questions I'll be glad to try and answer. I kind of wish that I had been aware of the TWL before I started as I may have done some things differently, found other better or less expensive materials, finished sooner, and so on. But, the above is what was done and so be it as I'm damn sure not tearing it up and starting over. Merry Christmas and smooth boating next year. Chuck Monroe, MV Ebb Tide. >>