Nick, I have gone through several iterations of this problem on my K-42. I have an Avon 3.11 RIB which is 11 ft. long with a 15 hp Honda engine and battery. There's more to the problem than meets the eye If you have the normal mast and boom situation. The following assumes that you do. 1. You will need to raise the attachment point of the boom on the mast so that it clears the dinghy when it is horizontal. I did that after getting the boat, but you can have it arranged when the mast is installed. 2. You'll find that the end of the boom is so far aft that you will need to raise and lower it under load in addition to raising and lowering the dinghy itself under power. This situation calls for two power sources -- not one. 3. I have not found an acceptable 120 volt AC solution. I installed two 12 Volt winches with wire rope and used them for a while. They were just fair. 4. I have now installed one Powerwinch model 501, 12 volt windlass on the mast with line, pulleys, and line clutches. The system works like a charm. The line clutches allow me to apply power to either the boom or the dinghy and have the load stabilized at all times. The whole process can be done by one person without trauma. The wiring is not a problem. You'll only need to run two #8 wires from your main 12 V. distribution center through the circuit breaker (at the panel, not at the windlass) supplied with the windlass, through the windlass foot switch and then to the windlass. My switch is installed in a water proof electrical box. I store it in the locker and take it out when I need to operate the windlass. It will reach any point on the top deck. There are obvious advantages to 12 volt operation if it is possible. It is not always convenient to have the gen. set running, but most of all, you're stuck if the gen set fails. My operating lines are of two different colors for easy identification. I have back-up hand winches so that electrical failure won't cause disaster. If you need additional info, drop me a note, I'll send you a sketch if you can accept attachments. CaptnWil 40 Pier Pointe New Bern NC 28562 (252) 636-3601 captnwil@coastalnet.com -----Original Message----- >The reason for this note is that I would like to consider adding an AC >electric winch under my K39 boom (when ever I get it ((delivery slipped 2 >months to Dec)) ) so that I can winch my dinghy up and down from the top >deck in style

If you have an inverter, a 120v windlass for you dinghy is best and cheapest, by far. If no inverter, 12v is mandatory (why start genset for this?) Wil Andrews wrote: > Nick, > > I have gone through several iterations of this problem on my K-42. I have > an Avon 3.11 RIB which is 11 ft. long with a 15 hp Honda engine and battery. > There's more to the problem than meets the eye If you have the normal mast > and boom situation. The following assumes that you do. > > 1. You will need to raise the attachment point of the boom on the mast so > that it clears the dinghy when it is horizontal. I did that after getting > the boat, but you can have it arranged when the mast is installed. > > 2. You'll find that the end of the boom is so far aft that you will need to > raise and lower it under load in addition to raising and lowering the dinghy > itself under power. This situation calls for two power sources -- not one. > > 3. I have not found an acceptable 120 volt AC solution. I installed two 12 > Volt winches with wire rope and used them for a while. They were just fair. > > 4. I have now installed one Powerwinch model 501, 12 volt windlass on the > mast with line, pulleys, and line clutches. The system works like a charm. > The line clutches allow me to apply power to either the boom or the dinghy > and have the load stabilized at all times. The whole process can be done by > one person without trauma. > > The wiring is not a problem. You'll only need to run two #8 wires from your > main 12 V. distribution center through the circuit breaker (at the panel, > not at the windlass) supplied with the windlass, through the windlass foot > switch and then to the windlass. My switch is installed in a water proof > electrical box. I store it in the locker and take it out when I need to > operate the windlass. It will reach any point on the top deck. > > There are obvious advantages to 12 volt operation if it is possible. It is > not always convenient to have the gen. set running, but most of all, you're > stuck if the gen set fails. > > My operating lines are of two different colors for easy identification. I > have back-up hand winches so that electrical failure won't cause disaster. > > If you need additional info, drop me a note, I'll send you a sketch if you > can accept attachments. > > CaptnWil > 40 Pier Pointe > New Bern NC 28562 > (252) 636-3601 > captnwil@coastalnet.com > -----Original Message----- > > >The reason for this note is that I would like to consider adding an AC > >electric winch under my K39 boom (when ever I get it ((delivery slipped 2 > >months to Dec)) ) so that I can winch my dinghy up and down from the top > >deck in style

> If you have an inverter, a 120v windlass for you dinghy is best and cheapest, by > far. If no inverter, 12v is mandatory (why start genset for this?) > I take it that there is a 120v winch which has a UL or ABYC approval for use in a marine environment. What is the brand name? Peter Denton

I would not use ac on a steel deck boat. Fiberglass?? not much diff than home if grounded properly.(don't use in rain, and insure grond fault protection) Dick B. Peter H. Denton PhD wrote: > > If you have an inverter, a 120v windlass for you dinghy is best and cheapest, by > > far. If no inverter, 12v is mandatory (why start genset for this?) > > > I take it that there is a 120v winch which has a UL or ABYC approval > for use in a marine environment. What is the brand name? > Peter Denton