OT: Hewlett Packard paint codes
Way off topic:
I know we have a few Ex-HP employee's here, so this is a long shot.
But I would like to know the what paint was used by HP and there color
values or codes. I know they vary slightly from one lot/day/month/year to
the next.
The reason I ask is, I'm completely redoing a couple pieces of my HP gear.
Managed to get a great match on the background, sort of an off white
greenish tint (light puke pea green my wife calls it), but the darker one
are eluding me and I suck at color matching.
I'm replacing the panels by scanning in an image and then creating a whole
new one in Photoshop.
I then paint a Hard-Temper Aluminum Foil .003" (McMaster Carr 9012K27) with
the background color (2 part urethane automotive paint).
Then I color sand (err remove all the imperfections) and cover the painted
surface with inkAID (Clear Gloss Precoat II see www.inkaid.com).
Put it in my inkjet printer and viola! A new front panel!
I then cover the panel with a 2 part urethane clear (baked in the oven)
which is then epoxied onto the old damaged one.
All that remains is to cut out the holes with sharp X-Acto knife and
reassemble.
However, the whole process of matching colors from scanner to screen to
inkjet (overlaid on a tinted background) really is total guess work without
a calibrated color source and colorimeter to verify the results. This is the
reason for my request.
All in all it's a pretty easy process! You don't have to use the two part
urethane stuff, any oil based acrylic will do nicely.
Like the two part stuff because it very very hard and durable! Cures fast in
an oven! Not to mention you can lay on quite a few coats and then flat sand
and polish to a mirror surface.
(Note: The two part urethanes need a respirator and a good spray booth)
The results are better than new. I even enlarge the text and numbers
slightly for my aging eyes!
Jack
Links: inkAID: http://www.inkaid1.com/Products/Gloss%20II.html
Foil: http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?pagetype=fasttrk
<http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?pagetype=fasttrk&search=9012K27&resul
tsContext=ITMLOOKUP&resultsQueryStr=searchstring%3D9012k27%26tab%3Dfind%26Fa
stTrack%3DTrue%26ftctlgpg%3D%26FlCntxt%3Dfindtab>
&search=9012K27&resultsContext=ITMLOOKUP&resultsQueryStr=searchstring%3D9012
k27%26tab%3Dfind%26FastTrack%3DTrue%26ftctlgpg%3D%26FlCntxt%3Dfindtab
Hi Jack:
If you have a piece of equipment that has the desired color, just take it to
you local paint store (Kelly More, etc) where they should have a digital
colorimeter. They can then blend a paint that when dry will be the same.
Have Fun,
Brooke Clarke
http://www.PRC68.com
http://www.precisionclock.com
http://www.prc68.com/I/WebCam2.shtml 24/7 Sky-Weather-Astronomy Cam
Jack Hudler wrote:
Way off topic:
I know we have a few Ex-HP employee's here, so this is a long shot.
But I would like to know the what paint was used by HP and there color
values or codes. I know they vary slightly from one lot/day/month/year to
the next.
The reason I ask is, I'm completely redoing a couple pieces of my HP gear.
Managed to get a great match on the background, sort of an off white
greenish tint (light puke pea green my wife calls it), but the darker one
are eluding me and I suck at color matching.
I'm replacing the panels by scanning in an image and then creating a whole
new one in Photoshop.
I then paint a Hard-Temper Aluminum Foil .003" (McMaster Carr 9012K27) with
the background color (2 part urethane automotive paint).
Then I color sand (err remove all the imperfections) and cover the painted
surface with inkAID (Clear Gloss Precoat II see www.inkaid.com).
Put it in my inkjet printer and viola! A new front panel!
I then cover the panel with a 2 part urethane clear (baked in the oven)
which is then epoxied onto the old damaged one.
All that remains is to cut out the holes with sharp X-Acto knife and
reassemble.
However, the whole process of matching colors from scanner to screen to
inkjet (overlaid on a tinted background) really is total guess work without
a calibrated color source and colorimeter to verify the results. This is the
reason for my request.
All in all it's a pretty easy process! You don't have to use the two part
urethane stuff, any oil based acrylic will do nicely.
Like the two part stuff because it very very hard and durable! Cures fast in
an oven! Not to mention you can lay on quite a few coats and then flat sand
and polish to a mirror surface.
(Note: The two part urethanes need a respirator and a good spray booth)
The results are better than new. I even enlarge the text and numbers
slightly for my aging eyes!
Jack
Links: inkAID: http://www.inkaid1.com/Products/Gloss%20II.html
Foil: http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?pagetype=fasttrk
<http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?pagetype=fasttrk&search=9012K27&resul
tsContext=ITMLOOKUP&resultsQueryStr=searchstring%3D9012k27%26tab%3Dfind%26Fa
stTrack%3DTrue%26ftctlgpg%3D%26FlCntxt%3Dfindtab>
&search=9012K27&resultsContext=ITMLOOKUP&resultsQueryStr=searchstring%3D9012
k27%26tab%3Dfind%26FastTrack%3DTrue%26ftctlgpg%3D%26FlCntxt%3Dfindtab
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.
Yes that works on the base color (light green), but when it comes to
printing the graphics on the coated foil I need the RGB values, which they
don't even know what that is.
Going to try a printer (they know what color is) and see if they use their
colorimeter to get the RGB values.
Thanks!
-----Original Message-----
From: time-nuts-bounces@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-bounces@febo.com] On
Behalf Of Brooke Clarke
Sent: Tuesday, December 25, 2007 7:39 PM
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] OT: Hewlett Packard paint codes
Hi Jack:
If you have a piece of equipment that has the desired color, just take it to
you local paint store (Kelly More, etc) where they should have a digital
colorimeter. They can then blend a paint that when dry will be the same.
Have Fun,
Brooke Clarke
http://www.PRC68.com
http://www.precisionclock.com
http://www.prc68.com/I/WebCam2.shtml 24/7 Sky-Weather-Astronomy Cam
Jack Hudler wrote:
Way off topic:
I know we have a few Ex-HP employee's here, so this is a long shot.
But I would like to know the what paint was used by HP and there color
values or codes. I know they vary slightly from one lot/day/month/year to
the next.
The reason I ask is, I'm completely redoing a couple pieces of my HP gear.
Managed to get a great match on the background, sort of an off white
greenish tint (light puke pea green my wife calls it), but the darker one
are eluding me and I suck at color matching.
I'm replacing the panels by scanning in an image and then creating a whole
new one in Photoshop.
I then paint a Hard-Temper Aluminum Foil .003" (McMaster Carr 9012K27)
with
the background color (2 part urethane automotive paint).
Then I color sand (err remove all the imperfections) and cover the painted
surface with inkAID (Clear Gloss Precoat II see www.inkaid.com).
Put it in my inkjet printer and viola! A new front panel!
I then cover the panel with a 2 part urethane clear (baked in the oven)
which is then epoxied onto the old damaged one.
All that remains is to cut out the holes with sharp X-Acto knife and
reassemble.
However, the whole process of matching colors from scanner to screen to
inkjet (overlaid on a tinted background) really is total guess work
without
a calibrated color source and colorimeter to verify the results. This is
the
reason for my request.
All in all it's a pretty easy process! You don't have to use the two part
urethane stuff, any oil based acrylic will do nicely.
Like the two part stuff because it very very hard and durable! Cures fast
in
an oven! Not to mention you can lay on quite a few coats and then flat
sand
and polish to a mirror surface.
(Note: The two part urethanes need a respirator and a good spray booth)
The results are better than new. I even enlarge the text and numbers
slightly for my aging eyes!
Jack
Links: inkAID: http://www.inkaid1.com/Products/Gloss%20II.html
Foil: http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?pagetype=fasttrk
<http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?pagetype=fasttrk&search=9012K27&resul
tsContext=ITMLOOKUP&resultsQueryStr=searchstring%3D9012k27%26tab%3Dfind%26Fa
stTrack%3DTrue%26ftctlgpg%3D%26FlCntxt%3Dfindtab>
&search=9012K27&resultsContext=ITMLOOKUP&resultsQueryStr=searchstring%3D9012
k27%26tab%3Dfind%26FastTrack%3DTrue%26ftctlgpg%3D%26FlCntxt%3Dfindtab
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to
and follow the instructions there.
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to
https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.
The results are better than new. I even enlarge the text and numbers
slightly for my aging eyes!
That sounds like a potentially lucrative new business!
As for color matching, by far the easiest thing to do is to take the
panel over to your local paint store and let them use their
computerized system to provide the match.
Alternatively, check out:
If you can match to any of the colors in the federal standard colors
collection, it's pretty easy to duplicate it.
Of course, using the on-line program presupposes your monitor is
calibrated...
Tom Frank, KA2CDK
Yes that works on the base color (light green), but when it comes to
printing the graphics on the coated foil I need the RGB values, which they
don't even know what that is.
Going to try a printer (they know what color is) and see if they use their
colorimeter to get the RGB values.
If you are doing this in Photoshop it's a simple task. First, load the image
of the original scan. Then on your floating toolbar click the left color box
(foreground color), that will open the color picker box. Put your mouse
pointer over the unknown color in the image and left click. Just make sure
you don't have the "only web colors" checked. That color picker box will
then show the RGB values as well as the hex value.
Phil
This assumes you have a calibrated scanner and a calibrated printer.
I don't have an IT8.7 target or its equivalent to calibrate the scanner.
Perhaps I should start there.... heck I'll just try and match it by eye.
Jack
-----Original Message-----
From: time-nuts-bounces@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-bounces@febo.com] On
Behalf Of phil
Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2007 10:20 AM
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] OT: Hewlett Packard paint codes
Yes that works on the base color (light green), but when it comes to
printing the graphics on the coated foil I need the RGB values, which they
don't even know what that is.
Going to try a printer (they know what color is) and see if they use their
colorimeter to get the RGB values.
If you are doing this in Photoshop it's a simple task. First, load the image
of the original scan. Then on your floating toolbar click the left color box
(foreground color), that will open the color picker box. Put your mouse
pointer over the unknown color in the image and left click. Just make sure
you don't have the "only web colors" checked. That color picker box will
then show the RGB values as well as the hex value.
Phil
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to
https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.
This assumes you have a calibrated scanner and a calibrated printer.
I don't have an IT8.7 target or its equivalent to calibrate the scanner.
Perhaps I should start there.... heck I'll just try and match it by eye.
Jack
Jack, even if you had the "exact" rgb value of the original color, and if
you intend to duplicate it on an inkjet printer you would have to tweak it
anyway. Printer colors differ by small amounts from brand to brand of ink
and even with same brand in different batches. Within Photoshop you can use
the "replace color" to tweak a given (single) color. Regardless of how you
do it, you have to sample printer output and match (tweak), to even to
calibrate the printer using calibration standards. This gets you very close
unless you have a super cheap scanner and printer and even with cheap
hardware this allows you to accomplish the intended results.
Phil
I am missing the original post, hopefully I am on topic..
I color match quite a bit. I refurbish lab instruments. I have a piece
of glass over top of my scanner platten. I mix the paint right on the
scanner and evaluate it with the GIMP. If you have not heard of it, it
is a free image manipulation program. You can click on a little dropper
icon inside the program and it will show you the RGB value for the small
region you clicked on.
Hope this helps, If you need more details please feel free to ask-Patrick
phil wrote:
This assumes you have a calibrated scanner and a calibrated printer.
I don't have an IT8.7 target or its equivalent to calibrate the scanner.
Perhaps I should start there.... heck I'll just try and match it by eye.
Jack
Jack, even if you had the "exact" rgb value of the original color, and if
you intend to duplicate it on an inkjet printer you would have to tweak it
anyway. Printer colors differ by small amounts from brand to brand of ink
and even with same brand in different batches. Within Photoshop you can use
the "replace color" to tweak a given (single) color. Regardless of how you
do it, you have to sample printer output and match (tweak), to even to
calibrate the printer using calibration standards. This gets you very close
unless you have a super cheap scanner and printer and even with cheap
hardware this allows you to accomplish the intended results.
Phil
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.
I color match quite a bit. I refurbish lab instruments. I have a piece
of glass over top of my scanner platten. I mix the paint right on the
scanner and evaluate it with the GIMP.
Now that is a clever idea...! Filed for future use.
-- john, KE5FX
Thanks John!
Actually I have spent a ridiculous amount of time on my paint set up. I
have a baby at home and I am worried about having solvents on the
property. I have a completely water bourne set up. I have a walk-in
spray booth in my garage and a walk-in sandblasting box too.
If you are interested let me know, I would like to help-Patrick
John Miles wrote:
I color match quite a bit. I refurbish lab instruments. I have a piece
of glass over top of my scanner platten. I mix the paint right on the
scanner and evaluate it with the GIMP.
Now that is a clever idea...! Filed for future use.
-- john, KE5FX
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.
OOPS... once I loaded the right ICC profile for the scanner and the printer
it all works very nicely now.
Several orders of magnitude better!
-----Original Message-----
From: time-nuts-bounces@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-bounces@febo.com] On
Behalf Of phil
Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2007 4:59 PM
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] OT: Hewlett Packard paint codes
This assumes you have a calibrated scanner and a calibrated printer.
I don't have an IT8.7 target or its equivalent to calibrate the scanner.
Perhaps I should start there.... heck I'll just try and match it by eye.
Jack
Jack, even if you had the "exact" rgb value of the original color, and if
you intend to duplicate it on an inkjet printer you would have to tweak it
anyway. Printer colors differ by small amounts from brand to brand of ink
and even with same brand in different batches. Within Photoshop you can use
the "replace color" to tweak a given (single) color. Regardless of how you
do it, you have to sample printer output and match (tweak), to even to
calibrate the printer using calibration standards. This gets you very close
unless you have a super cheap scanner and printer and even with cheap
hardware this allows you to accomplish the intended results.
Phil
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to
https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.
On Wed, 26 Dec 2007 18:35:26 -0500, Patrick optomatic@rogers.com wrote:
I am missing the original post, hopefully I am on topic..
I color match quite a bit. I refurbish lab instruments. I have a piece
of glass over top of my scanner platten. I mix the paint right on the
scanner and evaluate it with the GIMP. If you have not heard of it, it
is a free image manipulation program. You can click on a little dropper
icon inside the program and it will show you the RGB value for the small
region you clicked on.
Hope this helps, If you need more details please feel free to ask-Patrick
I thought I was the only one to do that. My method is easier than glass. I use the
crystal-clear packing tape that is available from the office supply big box stores
and Rat Shack. When carefully applied to the platen, it becomes totally transparent.
When the scan is finished, just rip it up and throw it away.
I bet Saran wrap would work equally well. This does leave the problem of paints that
change colors when they dry. The old "apply to substrate and dry with hair dryer"
method still applies.
Jack, back to your original problem, the trick to hitting the color spot-on after
only one or two tries is to use your scanner or even your digicam if you can keep the
lighting exactly the same, is to use it as a comparator. Scan the original color and
save it. Then generate output on your inkjet printer and scan that. Look at the
difference in each color channel and modify your original artwork color accordingly.
Usually you can nail it after the second try.
This system doesn't rely on the accuracy of the monitor, printer or scanner, but only
its repeatability. Repeatability is usually excellent, at least until you change
cartridges.
I haven't used this technique to duplicate colors on an instrument panel but I have
used it extensively for conventional graphics arts where I need to match the color on
a logo or whatnot.
RE: Gimp. I wouldn't foist that crap off on my worst enemy. Whomever conceived that
user interface had to be stoned. Bad stoned.
John
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.neon-john.com
http://www.johndearmond.com <-- best little blog on the net!
Tellico Plains, Occupied TN
If we aren't supposed to eat animals, why are they made with meat?
John,
LOL, I was busy today doing just that!
Took an image of the IT8/7 target, printed it, scanning it in and
then using a color 'curves' in PhotoShop to adjust the scanned image to the
correct RGB values. Did it in 2 passes and by god it worked spot on every
time.
RGB values: base color 186,186,169 darker infill color 165,165,148
But the interesting thing is this... the darker color is grey
difference of 21. 186-165 = 21 and 169-148 = 21.
So I created a layer in PhotoShop with black for the darker overlays
and then set its Opacity to 21.
Viola! You have this:
http://www.hudler.org/pub/tn/6024Acolored.png
and I print using this on an already painted background:
http://www.hudler.org/pub/tn/6024Aprint.png
This means that HP took the base color and added more lamp black.
All this means is, you don't care about color values at all, just
the difference.
Once you have the base color, the rest is all grey.
Well to be honest... it's not all grey... you got that dark brown
lot they fancied themselves on in the late 70's and 80's.
Thank you to the group for allowing me to stray far Off Topic!
Jack
PS. Ditto on the GIMP comment.
-----Original Message-----
From: time-nuts-bounces@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-bounces@febo.com] On
Behalf Of Neon John
Sent: Thursday, December 27, 2007 8:08 PM
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
Subject: SPAM-LOW: Re: [time-nuts] OT: Hewlett Packard paint codes
Jack, back to your original problem, the trick to hitting the color spot-on
after
only one or two tries is to use your scanner or even your digicam if you can
keep the
lighting exactly the same, is to use it as a comparator. Scan the original
color and
save it. Then generate output on your inkjet printer and scan that. Look
at the
difference in each color channel and modify your original artwork color
accordingly.
Usually you can nail it after the second try.
This system doesn't rely on the accuracy of the monitor, printer or scanner,
but only
its repeatability. Repeatability is usually excellent, at least until you
change
cartridges.
I haven't used this technique to duplicate colors on an instrument panel but
I have
used it extensively for conventional graphics arts where I need to match the
color on
a logo or whatnot.
RE: Gimp. I wouldn't foist that crap off on my worst enemy. Whomever
conceived that
user interface had to be stoned. Bad stoned.
John
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.neon-john.com
http://www.johndearmond.com <-- best little blog on the net!
Tellico Plains, Occupied TN
If we aren't supposed to eat animals, why are they made with meat?