Does it matter if all the fluid is out? The Uniflow Valve sits above the

Do I need to disconnect the

I believe we have transmission fluid in the system. I've
been advised to use hydraulic oil as the transmission fluid degrades the
seals.
Is there anything else I need to be aware of or

Ted Brown,

I just  and I mean just did that.

First , since you are working on only the upper station you need NOT drain
all of the  TRANSMISSION fluid from the system. Just enough to not have any
in it when you disconnect the lines into it. Open the drain  hole on the
Uniflow valve and drain as much fluid as needed. If you were doing the lower
one, as I just did,  then more fluid must be removed ,that is, to below the
lower unit though not all the way down to the cylinder in the lazarette.
CAVEAT:  If you  have an autopilot, turn the valves to it OFF before you
start to drain fluid.
You need  not disconnect the cylinder.
When you begin to tear down the pump be very cautious as there are  SPRINGS
in the cylinders in the pump. Unless you are careful they will  pop out and
then you have the pleasure of  ( trying to ) find them.

About the  TRANSMISSION FLUID, just the opposite is true ,  TRANSMISSION
FLUID came  out  and that is what goes back in.
See the spec sheet on the unit.
Get a  gallon of fluid.
Fill a flip top  container with it to make filling  the reservoir a lot
easier I suggest  that you not use a funnel. I keep such a container full of
transmission fluid on brd at all times.
Upon  reinstallation pour in the new Transmission fluid while turning the
wheel constantly allowing the air to bubble out.

((I suggest that you cut the top off of a gallon milk jug and place this
with  newspapers under it under the helm pump. Also have a roll of paper
towels, for you will spill fluid and it will bubble out of the fill hole.))

Do  this in both directions, takes quite a while, until no more bubbles and
the wheel feels firm and comes to a stop in each direction.
Once you are  SURE  that all air is out then  open the valves to the auto
pilot.

CCC
M/V CC RIDER
CHARLES C. and PAT CULOTTA, Jr.
Patterson, La.
http://www.geocities.com/charlesculotta/

Browns5412@aol.com
At 12:13 PM 2/15/04 -0500, you wrote:

I would not change the fluid or flush it out unless absolutely necessary.
Transmission fluid
is just hydraulic fluid with anti foam, a dye and sometimes some detergent.
You don't need detergent.

If you have to flush the system, then I would replace with hydraulic,
especially if the factory recommends it.
Flushing the system is a major, messy job. It is actually a lot worse than
that.

I had a boat last summer that the Capillano system was so bad, that we had
to tie the upper helm wheel down so that it would not turn. Otherwise we
could not get any steering effort out of the lower station. This boat was
getting the flush and repair both pumps job.

These problems are generally caused by dirt in the system. The dirt most
likely gets in when the system is being topped up, but may have been in
their since the original installation. It pays to be careful of getting
dirt in the system when topping up.

If you have a helm station that is having a problem, try turning the helm
back and forth as violently as you can. Just enough to cause the pump to
toggle back and forth. This may dislodge the dirt, this may be effective
permanently.

The univalve is no longer being built, the functionality is built into the
newer helm pumps. It is getting harder to find tech support people who are
familiar with it.

Mike

Capt. Mike Maurice
Wilsonville, Oregon (Portland).

----- Original Message -----
From: Browns5412@aol.com

the seals.

Hi Ted,

You need to select the replacement fluid based on what YOUR manual
says. If you no longer have the manual you may be able to find it
here: http://www.seastarsteering.com
Basing your decision on the advice of people who may have a different
model than you or on what came out when you drained the system are
invitations to future problems.

In a pretty cursory look around this site, I found that some Capilano
units, such as the 1250V and 1275V systems, call for ATF while others,
like the 1350 system, call for an ISO VG 32 Turbine oil. [Actually,
they describe it as SAE 10 Turbine oil which is incorrect
nomenclature.]

There IS an important difference between ATF and Turbine oil that has
a direct bearing on your situation and the stories that you've
mentioned about seal damage. ATF is designed to impart a controlled
amount of swelling in certain seal materials; those materials will
typically experience some shrinkage in the presence of turbine oil.
Basically, if your seals shrink when they're not supposed to they can
leak while unexpected swelling can lead to excessive wear.

The underlying reason for this swelling or shrinking is related to the
presence or absence of Napthenic base stock in the finished product.
I've posted explanations of this in the past so I won't bore you with
it here. The important thing is that your system was designed with a
specific fluid in mind and you will be best served to use only that
fluid.

Shrunkenly yours,

Alex