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TWL: Flybridge hardtop

G
GYMKIDD319@aol.com
Tue, Nov 4, 2003 6:02 PM

I received over a dozen off line e-mails about my recent posting on making a
9ft x 9ft hardtop, fiberglass covered plywood. Here are a few follow up notes.

I did not take pictures because it looks just like any other hardtop except
for the pair of 24" x 24" plexiglass hatches.

In my earlier posting I forgot to tell how I kept the old frame shape: before
removing the old softtop I bolted  a pair of 1" x 2"  lengthwise to each of
the four cross members of the s/s frame using the same clamps planned for final
fabrication. Then I removed the softcover and the frame retained its position
shape.  Measurements relative the the flybridge showed it was almost 2"
offcenter and height so I straightened that out marked the new positions on the 1"
x 2". Then I removed them and collapsed the frame for transport.

Six guys carried the new hardtop from the storage shed at the boatyard and
placed it on my flybridge(low position first) . Then several of us lifted it up
about fthree  feet higher (six foot total height) and we  placed four pre cut
1" x 2" (ends taped for chafe prevention) one at each corner to hold it up
just above the old frame height. The aft end was tight  between  radar arch
supports and that held everything temporarily in place.

It is now installed and despite my concerns about it possibly appearing too
big, is hardly noticeable at all because the 1" x3" wood edges are narrower
than the old curved soft cover  sides of 5" or 6" vertical height. It sure looks
a lot smaller 20 ft above  the water than it did in my garage.

In bolting the new top to the frame I lay on the new hardtop and it supported
me even without all the clamps in place. For some unknownreason, the top was
a little low in the middle of the bow-stern direction, so I cut an inch off
the front of the s/s frame to bring it down while the aft pieces bent the top
streaight again...Anyway, it is more than sturdy enough.

I rented a 24 ft Avis truck for the 65 miles trip from my basement
construction site to the boat. My wife and daughter and I were able to get it into the
truck but not without considerable grunting and puffing. The  ride was about
the roughest I have ever taken. Did they use any springs in the truck???

I had to hold on with two hands as I bounced over potholes and ruts on the
Cross Bronx Expressway. The top was shaken and four minor cracks ocurred as
follows: The athwarthships curve was made by first bending the plywood to the old
s/s frame, then gluing a  1" x 3" flat side to the forward and aft edges.
(This locks the plywood in a curved position).
Then I cut three  pieces of 1" x 3" and screwed and glued them end to end
perpendicularly along the the edge of the plywood and "flat" 1" x 3". (The top
edge was ground to the smooth curve of the roof on top, the bottom edge has
two breaks at the end joints.)

I recognized this as a "weak" spot but cutting the curve into a single wide
plank did not seem like much of an alternative. (The crown is about 6 inches.)
I trucked the top inside the truck on diagnoal (it was too wide to lay flat)
and should have placed it convex side DOWN so forces would compress these weak
edges....instead it was placed convex (crown) side up and the bouncing
stretched these joints just a tad.

All in all a successful project, but quite labor intensive.

(My old softcover enclosure is now being modified to fit the new top.)

cheers,
Rob Brueckner
1972 Hatteras Yachtfish

I received over a dozen off line e-mails about my recent posting on making a 9ft x 9ft hardtop, fiberglass covered plywood. Here are a few follow up notes. I did not take pictures because it looks just like any other hardtop except for the pair of 24" x 24" plexiglass hatches. In my earlier posting I forgot to tell how I kept the old frame shape: before removing the old softtop I bolted a pair of 1" x 2" lengthwise to each of the four cross members of the s/s frame using the same clamps planned for final fabrication. Then I removed the softcover and the frame retained its position shape. Measurements relative the the flybridge showed it was almost 2" offcenter and height so I straightened that out marked the new positions on the 1" x 2". Then I removed them and collapsed the frame for transport. Six guys carried the new hardtop from the storage shed at the boatyard and placed it on my flybridge(low position first) . Then several of us lifted it up about fthree feet higher (six foot total height) and we placed four pre cut 1" x 2" (ends taped for chafe prevention) one at each corner to hold it up just above the old frame height. The aft end was tight between radar arch supports and that held everything temporarily in place. It is now installed and despite my concerns about it possibly appearing too big, is hardly noticeable at all because the 1" x3" wood edges are narrower than the old curved soft cover sides of 5" or 6" vertical height. It sure looks a lot smaller 20 ft above the water than it did in my garage. In bolting the new top to the frame I lay on the new hardtop and it supported me even without all the clamps in place. For some unknownreason, the top was a little low in the middle of the bow-stern direction, so I cut an inch off the front of the s/s frame to bring it down while the aft pieces bent the top streaight again...Anyway, it is more than sturdy enough. I rented a 24 ft Avis truck for the 65 miles trip from my basement construction site to the boat. My wife and daughter and I were able to get it into the truck but not without considerable grunting and puffing. The ride was about the roughest I have ever taken. Did they use any springs in the truck??? I had to hold on with two hands as I bounced over potholes and ruts on the Cross Bronx Expressway. The top was shaken and four minor cracks ocurred as follows: The athwarthships curve was made by first bending the plywood to the old s/s frame, then gluing a 1" x 3" flat side to the forward and aft edges. (This locks the plywood in a curved position). Then I cut three pieces of 1" x 3" and screwed and glued them end to end perpendicularly along the the edge of the plywood and "flat" 1" x 3". (The top edge was ground to the smooth curve of the roof on top, the bottom edge has two breaks at the end joints.) I recognized this as a "weak" spot but cutting the curve into a single wide plank did not seem like much of an alternative. (The crown is about 6 inches.) I trucked the top inside the truck on diagnoal (it was too wide to lay flat) and should have placed it convex side DOWN so forces would compress these weak edges....instead it was placed convex (crown) side up and the bouncing stretched these joints just a tad. All in all a successful project, but quite labor intensive. (My old softcover enclosure is now being modified to fit the new top.) cheers, Rob Brueckner 1972 Hatteras Yachtfish