TWL: Anchor
I am looking at Bruce or Delta. Both come highly
recomende by those I have spoken to that have them.
Tom ,
I carry a Delta and a Super Max on the Bow platform rollers of Mrs.
Hudson . The Delta is good for hard bottoms - like Balto Harbor but will
plow in the soft silt of the Chesapeake ( and most of the ICW ) where the
Super Max works really great .
My Danforths have been regulated to the " extra anchors ' catagory .
All the Best
Ken
m/v Mrs. Hudson
I am considering two anchors to suplement the two
Danforths I presently have on board our 37 President.
I am looking at Bruce or Delta. Both come highly
recomende by those I have spoken to that have them.
Any negative comments on either.
Tom Egan
MV Serenity
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on 7/24/01 6:47, Tom Egan at mvserenity@yahoo.com wrote:
I am looking at Bruce or Delta. Both come highly
recomende by those I have spoken to that have them.
You may find the article on anchors on our website useful.
<http://www.adagiomarine.com>
The Delta is a good choice, we carry a Delta 88# as the number two anchor.
Our research indicates that the SPADE is the best all-around anchor, that is
our number one.
<http://www.spade-anchor.com/Site%20anglais/US/default_US.html>
The Bruce has good setting/resetting characteristics, but very poor holding
power per kilo of weight. If you carry a Bruce of about 2.5 times the weight
of a suitable Delta it will also be a good all purpose anchor.
All 3 these anchors are self-stable, they will maintain correct position if
(when) they drag. Very roughly, if each design was in steel and of equal
weight, their relative holding power in good bottom would be
Bruce 100%
Delta 200%
SPADE 400%
The SPADE is also made in high strength aluminium - Adagio carries the
largest made, the SPADE 200, but it weighs only 55 lbs. in alloy vs 121 lbs
in steel. Our info indicates that we would have to carry a 200kg Bruce
weighing 440 lbs to equal the SPADE performance - 8 times more weight on the
forebeam. In summary, 4x for superior design, 2x for alloy vs steel.
Yes, I know the test data isn't as precise as the figures imply, but I think
the big picture looks about that way. Time will tell what the downside of
the alloy construction may be. One reason we carry that big Delta is to have
the steel should we need it, say really rocky stuff in Chile/Patagonia.
West Marine now offers the SPADE anchors. WM was negotiating with Alain
Poiraud for rights to manufacture the anchors in US - I'm not sure of the
outcome, but West Marine can tell you.
Cheers,
Steve Darden
s/v Adagio
GPO 2046
Hobart, TAS 7001
Australia
0415/782-305
http://www.adagiomarine.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Tom Egan mvserenity@yahoo.com
I am considering two anchors to suplement the two
Danforths I presently have on board our 37 President.
I am looking at Bruce or Delta. Both come highly
recomende by those I have spoken to that have them.
Any negative comments on either.
A few of my own observations - some from first hand experience. Some from
observations of others. The Delta and Bruce have similar characteristics in
mud... decent holding, but not the greatest. The Bruce sets more quickly
and more reliably and resets better in 180 deg. swings. I've seen friends
that have Deltas get reliable sets and others have difficulty getting them
to set - both in the same anchorage. The Delta self launches, which can
come in handy when using electric windlass from the helm. Of the two
anchors, pound for pound, my personal preference would be the Bruce.
My overall favorite for my cruising area (the Chesapeake Bay) is the Max.
The Bruce is my second choice.
My two cents worth.
Mel Knott
Sandpiper
Chris Craft West Indian 36 Trawler
Annapolis, MD
I followed the thread on antifreeze, but I have a different question. The
are various products on the market to encapsulate the dry rot and then put a
paste filler in to areas destroyed by dry rot?
Does anyone have experience with System Three, West, etc. and can you
recommend a product that is suitable for vertical surfaces - the pilot
house.
Thank you,
Ron Rogers
Annapolis, MD
I have been very successful with Steve Smith's CPES (1:1) for
penetrating the decayed wood and then cover and faring with his two
part (1:1) Epoxy faring compound "Fill-it". For plywood delamination
I've found the CPES to thin and follow it with either Smith's "All
wood Glue" or "Tropical Hardwood Epoxy" which are thicker. I also
like System-3 'penetrating epoxy' for this application as it has a
viscosity somewhere between CPES and AWG/THWE. I stay away from West
Systems epoxy because of the amine blush left after curing. Cleaning
this off before applying the next layer can be difficult to
impossible. To get the appropriate epoxy in, I drill hundreds of
small holes 75% thru the wood and then pump the epoxy in with a
syringe.
You can reach Steve and his band of merry helpers at:
Steve Smith, owner/propriator of Smith & Co.
5100 Channel Ave, Richmond, CA., 94804
800/234-0330
510/237-6842
"Steve Smith" smi3th@smithandcompany.org
http://www.fiveyearclear.com
http://www.woodrestoration.com
http://www.smithandcompany.org
I also use his two part LPU paint and clear coat and am very happy
with the results.
-Louis
SEASTAR - Redwood City, CA
Disclaimer: I have nothing to do with Smith and Company, other than
being a satisfied customer.
At 11:49 -0400 8/2/01, Ron Rogers wrote:
I followed the thread on antifreeze, but I have a different question. The
are various products on the market to encapsulate the dry rot and then put a
paste filler in to areas destroyed by dry rot?
Does anyone have experience with System Three, West, etc. and can you
recommend a product that is suitable for vertical surfaces - the pilot
house.
Thank you,
Ron Rogers
Annapolis, MD
Boy! Thanks for the complete response. I'm printing out the dissertation on
fighting rot as I write this. Thanks for the web page references!
Sincerely,
Ron Rogers
rcrogers6@home.com writes:
various products on the market to encapsulate the dry rot and then
put a
paste filler in to areas destroyed by dry rot?
Does anyone have experience with System Three, West, etc. and can you
recommend a product that is suitable for vertical surfaces - the
pilot
house
I had good results with "Git Rod"; for vertical surfaces I drilled
holes at steepest possible angle to inject the stuff. Then used West
Epoxy made into a paste with sawdust to fill open areas. Did that to
my cockpit coming about five years ago. Still holding.
Usual disclaimers.... George
Step 1: very very important. Secure the use of 1 or 2
good strong friends.
Secure the transmission to a rope or something
similar. Attach rope to 2X4. Place blocks in bilge
underneath where trnsmission will bolt on.
Lift both ends of 2x4. Works easiest if your two
friends lift it and you scramble down into the engine
room. Gently lower transmission down, with you guiding
while two friends lower. Either allow it to come to
rest on the blocks, or have your friends continue to
hold wwhile you line up the bolt holes. Tighten bolts.
Use some kind of never seize so if you ever need to
again they will come off. If you had to remove mount
plates like I did, then re-bolt. This entire process
is really not that bad. But, mine was more difficult
of course since I had one person help me for 5
minutes. You can do it mostly by your self, though
your body will not be happy.
Here is what I did. Myself and one other lifted the 2
x 4 and lowered the tranny to the blocks. He left and
I detached the rope and attached the come along. I
jacked the tranny up a bit until it was kind of close
to the bolt holes and realized it was at an angle and
I would have to somehow get around this. SO, I used my
hands to push the stern side of the tranny and used my
feet to push it o the correct angle. not real fun or
easy but eventually worked.
Next is how to align the engine in depth as it took me
5 hours of work and 3 days of varnish to get kind of
somewhat close.
Dan
37 Roughwater
"Wen I Dream"
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