Sorry Guys

The typo gremlin struck (again). The binoculars I purchased are the Pentax
DCF 8x42 WP. The D stands for Dach (German for roof indicating that this
model uses the more expensive roof prisms), the CF for centre focus, and the
WP for waterproof (they're nitrogen-filled and can be immersed in 1 metre of
water).

At www.interprophoto.com they can be found under Binoculars, Pentax, "62560
DCF WP 8x42 w/case Phase Coated 315.00". (I had to pay taxes etc.) They're
also available in 10X as 62570 DCF WP 10x42 w/case Phase Coated 357.00, but
the 8x are better for eyeglass wearers because they provide longer eye
relief.

The other less-expensive models listed do not have the phase coating that
produces the crisp bright images nor are they waterproof.

A web search on the model number will lead you to sites that have tested
them and discuss the value and apparently high cost of "phase coating",
something I thought was just another marketing gimmick until I tried the
glasses for myself.

Cheers, Garrett

My borg warner came out today with only a bit of a
fight. Here are the steps that worked FOR ME. (Your
results may vary!!!) Its wasnt as hard as you might
think, but its nerve racking.

Proper tools are essential. We used a come-along to
lift the engine a bit for blocking. Also large enough
sockets to remove the large negine mount bolts(1 1/8).
Mine were rusty. so I fortuneatly had been spraying
them every day with penetrating oil. they came off wit
ha bit of work. We did not have the proper socket but
I had a big ass pipe wrench. did the job.

BTW - anyone who thiks I did somethign wrong or can
improve this please let me know. I didnt mark some
things whci h Isuspect I will regret later.

Also note mine was not the easier type. Apparently,
two type exist: engines with mount on the transmission
and engiens with mount on the engine. Mine was on the
tramsission. As a resultlocking was needed

1. Spray rusty bolts days ahead of time.
2. unfasten the prop shaft. (mine was 4 bolts as I
   recall. I had to undo the set screws also as they
   would not come out unless screws were removed)
3. push the prop shaft back about a foot.
4. use eitehr a hydraulic jack or come along to lift
   hte engine some. block under engine. where? where ever
   locks appropriate.
   4A) Place 2x4  over engine compartment. attach come
   along.
   4B) jack. I did not do this so I offer no advice
   sorry.
   5)attach lift strap around trasmission and lift
   carefully several clicks of the come along
5. measure under engine mounts for distance between
   lower bolt and mount plate.
6. If there is some space, and this number seems
   highly subjective, 1/4 in, discoutninue lifting. You
   wnat enough where when the engine settles, it doesnt
   settle below its original position. it will go down
   some. (Really this number is very arbitrary.!!)
7. block wood underneath. make sure its blocked solid.
   This worries me even now. How do I know my boat can
   support the weight of the engine? One would hope so.
8. release pressure on the engine slowly until weight
   rests on blocks. (Keep strap attached for later
   lifting of transmission only)You are nearly there.
9. Disconnect shift lever, oil cooler hoses, if so
   equipped.
10. un bolt tranny from engine. (6 bolts on mine)
11. Carefully move back tranny until free.
12. Work transmission back and fourth or side to side
    until totally free and clear.
13. lift 2x4 with tranny attached.
14. SCREAM "HAHAHAHA VICTORY!!!"

The above was started near 1030 this morning and
completed near 1. Most time was spent figuring out how
to block, cutting 2x4 to proper lenght to fit across
engien hatch cover. I had plenty of space really so it
was not awful.

Dan
37 Roughwater
"Wen I Dream"

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