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120V green ground conductor

PS
paul schlechter
Mon, Nov 10, 2008 2:54 PM

Hi All,
Having recently purchased a 1963 Cheoy Lee Troller, I will be updating the
current 120v system.  Currently there is no distribution panel, only what
appears to be an automotive type fuse panel coming directly off the incoming
30A shorepower outlet.

I plan on removing this completely and installing a new incoming 30A
receptacle to a new Blueseas distribution panel with a galvanic isolator in
the ground connection.  I must add that this is a wood boat.

My question is about the green 120v ground wire.  Based on all I've read this
should be connected to the ships 12v negative ground.  As I will be locating
the new 120v panel adjacent to the current 12v panel, can this 120v green
ground simply be connected to the negative terminal in the 12v panel or should
a separate ground wire be run from the new panel to the 12v negative battery
connection at the engine?

Paul Schlechter
31' Cheoy Lee Monterey Clipper Troller "Tortuga"

Hi All, Having recently purchased a 1963 Cheoy Lee Troller, I will be updating the current 120v system. Currently there is no distribution panel, only what appears to be an automotive type fuse panel coming directly off the incoming 30A shorepower outlet. I plan on removing this completely and installing a new incoming 30A receptacle to a new Blueseas distribution panel with a galvanic isolator in the ground connection. I must add that this is a wood boat. My question is about the green 120v ground wire. Based on all I've read this should be connected to the ships 12v negative ground. As I will be locating the new 120v panel adjacent to the current 12v panel, can this 120v green ground simply be connected to the negative terminal in the 12v panel or should a separate ground wire be run from the new panel to the 12v negative battery connection at the engine? Paul Schlechter 31' Cheoy Lee Monterey Clipper Troller "Tortuga"
SH
Scott H.E. Welch
Mon, Nov 10, 2008 3:05 PM

My question is about the green 120v ground wire.  Based on all I've read this
should be connected to the ships 12v negative ground.  As I will be locating
the new 120v panel adjacent to the current 12v panel, can this 120v green
ground simply be connected to the negative terminal in the 12v panel or
should
a separate ground wire be run from the new panel to the 12v negative battery
connection at the engine?

Paul,

This is an area that requires more than a casual knowledge of electricity. I
would highly recommend that you run over to Amazon and buy two books: Charlie
Wing's "Boatowner's Illustrated Electrical Handbook", and Nigel Calder's
"Boatowner's Mechanical and Electrical Manual". They cover in detail what you
need.

As for the ground, this is exactly what you need an isolator for. You should
use a 30 amp isolation transformer, and connect the ground on the output side
to the 12 volt ships (DC) ground. The incoming AC ground (green wire) goes to
the input of the transformer. It's critical that the incoming AC ground is
kept isolated from the ship's DC ground, especially on a wooden boat.

Scott Welch
FirstClass Product Manager
www.firstclass.com

"Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn
out." - John Wooden

chiropaul23@yahoo.com writes: >My question is about the green 120v ground wire. Based on all I've read this >should be connected to the ships 12v negative ground. As I will be locating >the new 120v panel adjacent to the current 12v panel, can this 120v green >ground simply be connected to the negative terminal in the 12v panel or >should >a separate ground wire be run from the new panel to the 12v negative battery >connection at the engine? Paul, This is an area that requires more than a casual knowledge of electricity. I would highly recommend that you run over to Amazon and buy two books: Charlie Wing's "Boatowner's Illustrated Electrical Handbook", and Nigel Calder's "Boatowner's Mechanical and Electrical Manual". They cover in detail what you need. As for the ground, this is exactly what you need an isolator for. You should use a 30 amp isolation transformer, and connect the ground on the output side to the 12 volt ships (DC) ground. The incoming AC ground (green wire) goes to the input of the transformer. It's critical that the incoming AC ground is kept isolated from the ship's DC ground, especially on a wooden boat. Scott Welch FirstClass Product Manager www.firstclass.com "Things turn out best for people who make the best of the way things turn out." - John Wooden
K
KevinR
Mon, Nov 10, 2008 4:13 PM

-----Original Message-----
As for the ground, this is exactly what you need an isolator for. You should
use a 30 amp isolation transformer, and connect the ground on the output side
to the 12 volt ships (DC) ground. The incoming AC ground (green wire) goes to
the input of the transformer. It's critical that the incoming AC ground is
kept isolated from the ship's DC ground, especially on a wooden boat.

A bit of clarification here -  ABYC E-11.17 requires that the safety ground (green wire) of the
AC system ON THE BOAT be bonded to the "engine negative terminal or its bus". However, to
prevent galvanic corrosion, a galvanic isolator OR an isolation transformer is also needed.
While an isolation transformer is an excellent way to provide the isolation, they are big, heavy
and expensive. As such, the galvanic isolator that Paul proposed should be just fine for his
application.

If the boat uses a shore power system as used by many trawlers under 40' and as Paul described
(i.e., 30A, 120V, no isolation transformer, with a galvanic isolator), the green wire on the
boat side of the isolator MUST be bonded to the DC ground/engine block (see:
http://www.yandina.com/acrobats/GalvOwnManual.pdf).

An alternate way of complying with the requirements if you have the space and budget to do so,
is to add an isolation transformer to the circuit (see:
http://www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/Datasheet-UK-Isolationtransformer.pdf). This
transformer sits between the shore power inlet and the main AC panel. The safety ground (green
wire) is galvanicly isolated from the shore safety ground, but the boat side green wire still
gets bonded to the DC ground system.

Kevin

> -----Original Message----- > As for the ground, this is exactly what you need an isolator for. You should > use a 30 amp isolation transformer, and connect the ground on the output side > to the 12 volt ships (DC) ground. The incoming AC ground (green wire) goes to > the input of the transformer. It's critical that the incoming AC ground is > kept isolated from the ship's DC ground, especially on a wooden boat. A bit of clarification here - ABYC E-11.17 requires that the safety ground (green wire) of the AC system ON THE BOAT be bonded to the "engine negative terminal or its bus". However, to prevent galvanic corrosion, a galvanic isolator OR an isolation transformer is also needed. While an isolation transformer is an excellent way to provide the isolation, they are big, heavy and expensive. As such, the galvanic isolator that Paul proposed should be just fine for his application. If the boat uses a shore power system as used by many trawlers under 40' and as Paul described (i.e., 30A, 120V, no isolation transformer, with a galvanic isolator), the green wire on the boat side of the isolator MUST be bonded to the DC ground/engine block (see: http://www.yandina.com/acrobats/GalvOwnManual.pdf). An alternate way of complying with the requirements if you have the space and budget to do so, is to add an isolation transformer to the circuit (see: http://www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/Datasheet-UK-Isolationtransformer.pdf). This transformer sits between the shore power inlet and the main AC panel. The safety ground (green wire) is galvanicly isolated from the shore safety ground, but the boat side green wire still gets bonded to the DC ground system. Kevin
AJ
Arild Jensen
Mon, Nov 10, 2008 6:27 PM

----- Original Message -----
From: "KevinR"

A bit of clarification here -  ABYC E-11.17 requires that the safety
ground (green wire) of the  AC system ON THE BOAT be bonded to the "engine
negative terminal or its bus". However, to  prevent galvanic corrosion, a
galvanic isolator OR an isolation transformer is also needed.
An alternate way of complying with the requirements if you have the space
and budget to do so,  is to add an isolation transformer to the circuit

REPLY
In my work  I have seen a few wooden boats nearly destroyed  because they
were wired to conform to ABYC standards.  What most people do not  recognize
is that  the standards was written to prevent shock hazard to people and
sacrificing the boat was considered acceptable.
The intent of the standard is to GROUND  the AC electrical system because
all the protection  like GFCI and circuit breakers rely on the current path
provided by the green ground wire.  Bonding the engine block  is a
convenience short cut.  This method is a quick way to connect to a large
metal mass  in direct contact with  the sea water. But if a driver saver
disk is installed in the shaft coupling then you hav ebroken this path to
ground.  some of the newer  engines are now deisgned not to have the block
as a DC current carrying  conductor in the start circuit. The end result  is
an engine that is still isolated.  this negates the intent of th eABYC
standad.

In wooden boats docked in waters  known to have stray current from shore
power facilities  it is common to see  this current passing in ( via thru
hul fitting) through one side of the hull;  follow the bonding wires and
exit the hull on the other side  which is closer to the land mounted
transformer. this will happen even if both a galvanic isolator or an
isolating transformer is used as long as th efitings are bonded per ABYC.
Not good!.
The wood around the thru hulls will soften as the lignin is destroyed by the
passing current.

ABYC  standards were originally formulated for non conducting plastic boats.
ABYC came into existence after the heyday of wooden boats had passed.  I
doubt the technical committees  really gave much thought to the issue. Their
focus was  people safety and shock prevention.
You can be compliant  to the standard and still get away  from  running
bonding wires to every thru hull fiting.  You need a separate ground plate
of approximately  one square yard or meter.  This will securely  ground the
AC electrical system  If the boat is fitted with an inverter some additional
wiring tricks  for the neutrals  and the green wire bonding bus  must be
observed.

cheers
Arild

----- Original Message ----- From: "KevinR" > A bit of clarification here - ABYC E-11.17 requires that the safety > ground (green wire) of the AC system ON THE BOAT be bonded to the "engine > negative terminal or its bus". However, to prevent galvanic corrosion, a > galvanic isolator OR an isolation transformer is also needed. > An alternate way of complying with the requirements if you have the space > and budget to do so, is to add an isolation transformer to the circuit REPLY In my work I have seen a few wooden boats nearly destroyed because they were wired to conform to ABYC standards. What most people do not recognize is that the standards was written to prevent shock hazard to people and sacrificing the boat was considered acceptable. The intent of the standard is to GROUND the AC electrical system because all the protection like GFCI and circuit breakers rely on the current path provided by the green ground wire. Bonding the engine block is a convenience short cut. This method is a quick way to connect to a large metal mass in direct contact with the sea water. But if a driver saver disk is installed in the shaft coupling then you hav ebroken this path to ground. some of the newer engines are now deisgned not to have the block as a DC current carrying conductor in the start circuit. The end result is an engine that is still isolated. this negates the intent of th eABYC standad. In wooden boats docked in waters known to have stray current from shore power facilities it is common to see this current passing in ( via thru hul fitting) through one side of the hull; follow the bonding wires and exit the hull on the other side which is closer to the land mounted transformer. this will happen even if both a galvanic isolator or an isolating transformer is used as long as th efitings are bonded per ABYC. Not good!. The wood around the thru hulls will soften as the lignin is destroyed by the passing current. ABYC standards were originally formulated for non conducting plastic boats. ABYC came into existence after the heyday of wooden boats had passed. I doubt the technical committees really gave much thought to the issue. Their focus was people safety and shock prevention. You can be compliant to the standard and still get away from running bonding wires to every thru hull fiting. You need a separate ground plate of approximately one square yard or meter. This will securely ground the AC electrical system If the boat is fitted with an inverter some additional wiring tricks for the neutrals and the green wire bonding bus must be observed. cheers Arild