I would not worry about the U V on the interior too much.  The glass in the
windows will block some of the UV, plus it is at an angle so the intensity
will be reduced.  I have used Varathane on floors.  Minwax has a
"Clearshield, with U V inhibitors for floors".

I have used Gymseal by McCloskey for many years both over wood and wood with
epoxy and then two or three coast of Gymseal.  The medical clinic which I
was a partner in had beautiful hardwood floors--they used Gymseal--the same
as used in gymansium floors.  This had traffic of hundreds of  people a day
over it.

Bob Austin

An interesting web with a blurb about floor caoating and Gymseal:

http://www.homesteadfinishing.com/htdocs/Floorfinishes.htm

Ron Rogers

All:

I'm slowly working my way up to an extensive rewiring project, experimenting
with different termination methods and trying to figure out what I like.

So far, I'd prefer to use tinned ring connectors without insulation, and
then add a piece of heat shrink. I also put a dab of corrosion blocking goo
in each terminal before crimping.

But...Ancor - who appear to be the have the widest range of products in this
area - makes this approach difficult. OK, they have heat shrink connectors,
but I don't really like crimping the heatshrink and I'd also prefer to have
enough heat shrink extending past the crimp that it effectively seals the
end when heated. And they have the double crimp connectors - I kinda like
the idea of crimping the connector onto the insulator - except they're only
in nylon. (Which I didn't realize at first...you wouldn't believe how high
you have to heat the nylon to get it to shrink <g>).

Is there a source for uninsulated double crimp connectors? Probably. But
then the double crimp ratcheting crimpers seem to be pre-sized for insulated
connectors.

As for the double crimp, I'm also thinking that the heat shrink itself
provides a form or strain relief. Plus I like the idea of even pressure all
around as opposed to the localized pressure of crimp connection.

I'm also not terribly impressed with the larger end of Ancor's product
range. I ended up buying a Thomas & Betts crimper and dies on EBay for
making my 4/0 battery cables. Ancor has this wacky-assed thing you hit with
a hammer. Ugh.

Comments? Suggestions?

Keith

Keith wrote:
So far, I'd prefer to use tinned ring connectors without insulation, and
then add a piece of heat shrink. I also put a dab of corrosion blocking goo
in each terminal before crimping.

But...Ancor - who appear to be the have the widest range of products in this
area - makes this approach difficult.

REPLY
If you contact any electrical wholesaler  or distribution supply house you will
find several manufactures who do offer a full range of products.

AMP,  RayChem, Panduit, Thomas and Betts,  Burndy,  NECO, just to name those
that come mind immediately.

I was doing heat shrink splices back in 1971 using Raychem  adhesive lined
sleeves.
This was underground submersible splices in 1/2" and 3/4" cables.
We used T&B  Burndy and  Panduit for electronic assemblies in the early eighties
and it was not  new then.

Ancor's  main claim to fame is advertising itself as "marine" grade and paying a
staffer to attend all the ABYC technical committee meetings to get the blessing
of the standard.

OK, they have heat shrink connectors, but I don't really like crimping the
heatshrink and I'd also prefer to have
enough heat shrink extending past the crimp that it effectively seals the
end when heated. And they have the double crimp connectors - I kinda like
the idea of crimping the connector onto the insulator - except they're only
in nylon. (Which I didn't realize at first...you wouldn't believe how high
you have to heat the nylon to get it to shrink <g>).

REPLY
The reason for the nylon is  a flammability issue from NFPA  codes.

Is there a source for uninsulated double crimp connectors? Probably. But
then the double crimp ratcheting crimpers seem to be pre-sized for insulated
connectors.

Every terminal manufacturer offers specific crimp tools for their products.
In fact any mil spec production facility usually has dozens or more  tools  just
to conform to the specifications if they  change  brands or suppliers.

As for the double crimp, I'm also thinking that the heat shrink itself
provides a form or strain relief. Plus I like the idea of even pressure all
around as opposed to the localized pressure of crimp connection.

REPLY
The even pressure you refer to is actually swaging.
However it is much more difficult to verify  a correct crimp without doing a
pull test on this kind of crimp.

The indent  style is easier to visually inspect and confirm as being done
correctly.
It is also more tolerant of  workmanship variations while still providing a good
crimp.
As long as ductile base material, ( be it pure copper or brass ) does not crack
from the dent it is better.

all the industrial  bare terminal crimpers have a double action crimp die.
The  front die crimps onto the bare wire, the rear die crimps onto the
insulation for strain relief.
But you don't find these tools in consumer stores. You have to go to an
industrial supplier.

I'm also not terribly impressed with the larger end of Ancor's product
range. I ended up buying a Thomas & Betts crimper and dies on EBay for
making my 4/0 battery cables. Ancor has this wacky-assed thing you hit with
a hammer. Ugh.

REPLY
Ancor only brands products made by  other  suppliers.
However they do offer a very nice crimping tool with an adjustable die for
cables up to 4/0 and as small as #8
It has a lever action  with handles 24" long.
It has two scales;  one for copper, the other for aluminum wire and fittings.
In my opinion this is better than the  replaceable die set of the T&B  or Burndy
crimper since you can't lose the die and the head is less bulky.

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Look at: http://www.terminaltown.com/

Keith
__
"If you follow your bliss, you put yourself on a kind of track,
which has been there all the while waiting for you,
and the life that you ought to be living is the one you are living." -
Joseph Campbell

Ancor's head shrink connectors with adhesive extend sufficiently past the
end of the connector to provide strain relief. I use the Ancor rachet
crimper made for their insulated products. Got it at a going out of business
sale.

A pro in the business felt that I was unnecessarily using the adhesive
connectors at the back of the breaker panel, but I believe that it is worth
it. I believe the nylon covered connectors to do hold the wire tightly
enough when using the Ancor crimper, nor do they prevent moisture from
creeping in.

Use a belt with your suspenders,
Ron Rogers