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Re: TWL: Teak Deck Replacement

RP
Richter-Pooh@rocketmail.com
Tue, Jun 27, 2000 6:55 PM

<<We are considering removing the teak and replacing with a product called Treadmaster. We only found one web listing which said it was difficult to clean and always looked dirty.>>

We love the Treadmaster decks on Winnie the Pooh.  Be aware
that Treadmaster comes in several different patterns, some
more agressive (and harder to clean) than others.  Our deck
covering is the smooth style, and very easy to clean.  We
have the color "teak", which looks great, but gets too hot
in the sun.  Next time, I'd pick a light color, like "sand"
or similar.

Installation is pretty easy.  Cut out the sheets (standard
size is about 3x4 ft, about $50 each), and glue down using
epoxy resin thickened with fumed silica (cab-o-sil is a
popular brand).  The fiberglass deck must be smooth, but
not nearly as perfect as for painting. Treadmaster is
available from Defender Industries, among others, though we
got ours from the importer, Simpson-Laurence, at the Dania
marine flea market.

Mark Richter


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<<We are considering removing the teak and replacing with a product called Treadmaster. We only found one web listing which said it was difficult to clean and always looked dirty.>> We love the Treadmaster decks on Winnie the Pooh. Be aware that Treadmaster comes in several different patterns, some more agressive (and harder to clean) than others. Our deck covering is the smooth style, and very easy to clean. We have the color "teak", which looks great, but gets too hot in the sun. Next time, I'd pick a light color, like "sand" or similar. Installation is pretty easy. Cut out the sheets (standard size is about 3x4 ft, about $50 each), and glue down using epoxy resin thickened with fumed silica (cab-o-sil is a popular brand). The fiberglass deck must be smooth, but not nearly as perfect as for painting. Treadmaster is available from Defender Industries, among others, though we got ours from the importer, Simpson-Laurence, at the Dania marine flea market. Mark Richter __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere! http://mail.yahoo.com/
R
rbryett@ibm.net
Wed, Jun 28, 2000 10:29 AM

"We are considering removing  the teak and replacing with a product called
Treadmaster.  We only found one web listing which said it was difficult to
clean and always looked dirty."

For details of Treadmaster, including international distributors, try the
website of the manufacturer: http://tiflex.co.uk/marine.html. I have no
connection with Tiflex incidentally, except as a satisfied customer.

Treadmaster is the best anti-skid I've ever seen - It's tough, resilient,
easy to lay and it damps sound (especially from blocks, winch handles etc.
clonking on the deck at night). It wears very well, and doesn't get marred
easily by gritty boots. I finished the deck of my last boat with pale beige
Treadmaster of the original rough pattern, and found it cleaned up well
with water and a scrubbing brush. By the way, DON'T use one of those
high-pressure water-jet cleaners on Treadmaster, because it will rip up the
surface. Ordinary hose pressure is fine.

Disadvantages? Treadmaster is heavier than deck paint, although much longer
lasting. It's raised diamond pattern is so vigorously anti-skid that it is
not friendly to bare skin - It's not comfortable to sit on in swim trunks,
and you won't slide your bum across it more than once (there is a "smooth
style" version available that's less aggressive)! Treadmaster has a
distinctive "look" which doesn't suit all boats. There's a whiff of
oil-rigs and tug-boats about it that probably won't go with an elegant
traditional-looking yacht.

The officially recommended method of sticking down Treadmaster is to use
epoxy. I've found that less than satisfactory, with the glue breaking down
at the edges and allowing the Treadmaster to curl. I used the following
method which has held the material down perfectly on fresh gel coat with no
sign of lifting after six years under the Australian sun.

  1. Cut the Treadmaster to size and shape. If possible curve all corners,
    inward and outward with a minimum radius of about 1/2".

  2. If the deck is fresh gel coat or paint wipe the area where you're going
    to stick the Treadmaster with a suitable solvent to remove grease, wax,
    release agent etc.

  3. Lay the cut piece in position on the deck, double check the position and
    fit, and draw round it with a soft pencil.

  4. Sand the area inside the line with a fairly coarse paper.

  5. Place the cut piece back on the deck, and then tape down half its length
    to the deck with masking tape.

  6. Fold back the untaped portion and coat its underside, and the area of
    the deck it will cover with contact adhesive (also known as impact adhesive
    or cement). Wait until the adhesive feels just dry on both surfaces and
    roll the Treadmaster down working from the inside outwards to avoid leaving
    bubbles. Press down firmly.

  7. Fold back the unglued portion of the Treadmaster and repeat the process.

This method keeps the Treadmaster and the glue under control and allows
precise positioning of the material.

Contact adhesive is cheaper than epoxy, less fiddly to work with (no
mixing, hardeners, going off etc.), and is easy to clean up with turps even
after it's set completely. It also sticks instantly, so you don't have to
secure the Treadmaster while the glue sets, which is handy on steeply
sloping surfaces. Please note however that this is NOT the manufacturer's
recommended method, and while it worked fine for me, your mileage may vary.

Regards, Robert Bryett
Sydney, Australia.
mailto:rbryett@ibm.net

"We are considering removing the teak and replacing with a product called Treadmaster. We only found one web listing which said it was difficult to clean and always looked dirty." For details of Treadmaster, including international distributors, try the website of the manufacturer: http://tiflex.co.uk/marine.html. I have no connection with Tiflex incidentally, except as a satisfied customer. Treadmaster is the best anti-skid I've ever seen - It's tough, resilient, easy to lay and it damps sound (especially from blocks, winch handles etc. clonking on the deck at night). It wears very well, and doesn't get marred easily by gritty boots. I finished the deck of my last boat with pale beige Treadmaster of the original rough pattern, and found it cleaned up well with water and a scrubbing brush. By the way, DON'T use one of those high-pressure water-jet cleaners on Treadmaster, because it will rip up the surface. Ordinary hose pressure is fine. Disadvantages? Treadmaster is heavier than deck paint, although much longer lasting. It's raised diamond pattern is so vigorously anti-skid that it is not friendly to bare skin - It's not comfortable to sit on in swim trunks, and you won't slide your bum across it more than once (there is a "smooth style" version available that's less aggressive)! Treadmaster has a distinctive "look" which doesn't suit all boats. There's a whiff of oil-rigs and tug-boats about it that probably won't go with an elegant traditional-looking yacht. The officially recommended method of sticking down Treadmaster is to use epoxy. I've found that less than satisfactory, with the glue breaking down at the edges and allowing the Treadmaster to curl. I used the following method which has held the material down perfectly on fresh gel coat with no sign of lifting after six years under the Australian sun. 1. Cut the Treadmaster to size and shape. If possible curve all corners, inward and outward with a minimum radius of about 1/2". 2. If the deck is fresh gel coat or paint wipe the area where you're going to stick the Treadmaster with a suitable solvent to remove grease, wax, release agent etc. 2. Lay the cut piece in position on the deck, double check the position and fit, and draw round it with a soft pencil. 3. Sand the area inside the line with a fairly coarse paper. 4. Place the cut piece back on the deck, and then tape down half its length to the deck with masking tape. 5. Fold back the untaped portion and coat its underside, and the area of the deck it will cover with contact adhesive (also known as impact adhesive or cement). Wait until the adhesive feels just dry on both surfaces and roll the Treadmaster down working from the inside outwards to avoid leaving bubbles. Press down firmly. 6. Fold back the unglued portion of the Treadmaster and repeat the process. This method keeps the Treadmaster and the glue under control and allows precise positioning of the material. Contact adhesive is cheaper than epoxy, less fiddly to work with (no mixing, hardeners, going off etc.), and is easy to clean up with turps even after it's set completely. It also sticks instantly, so you don't have to secure the Treadmaster while the glue sets, which is handy on steeply sloping surfaces. Please note however that this is NOT the manufacturer's recommended method, and while it worked fine for me, your mileage may vary. Regards, Robert Bryett Sydney, Australia. mailto:rbryett@ibm.net
H
hnmorgan@mindspring.com
Wed, Jun 28, 2000 9:30 PM

Hi All,

Treadmaster in the US is available from Defender (mail order) and in person
at Fawcett's in Annapolis (maybe they'll mail it to you if you buy enough).
Robert Bryett's post was accurate in describing our experience with the
product.
We installed it using the Treadmaster two-part adhesive. Tip: on a warm day,
place the adhesive container in a bowl with ice - that will significantly
lengthen the working time before it goes rock-solid.
They also make a treatment to restore the color/brightness of the product.

--
HNick&Sherri
Small Wonder (Camano Troll)
HYY, Galesville, MD

Hi All, Treadmaster in the US is available from Defender (mail order) and in person at Fawcett's in Annapolis (maybe they'll mail it to you if you buy enough). Robert Bryett's post was accurate in describing our experience with the product. We installed it using the Treadmaster two-part adhesive. Tip: on a warm day, place the adhesive container in a bowl with ice - that will significantly lengthen the working time before it goes rock-solid. They also make a treatment to restore the color/brightness of the product. -- HNick&Sherri Small Wonder (Camano Troll) HYY, Galesville, MD