TWL: Pre-engaged starter mysteries
If there is # 8 wire to the selenoid, there must be another relay. A relay
between the start button or ignition starter circuit is common. All of my
trucks have this, as have most of my boats with larger engines. ( one of the
problems which also crops up with this type of circuit is a neutral safety
switch--some cars even have a switch where you have to step on the brake
before the current will go to the starter selenoid--because of the several
contact points, the current demand at these switches is low--thus an extra
relay)
Bob Austin
You're right about that Bob. In fact I discovered today that the ANL 50
amp fuse for the solenoid/ignition switch - which is placed in the
circuit right after a multi-purpose relay/solenoid - was blown. Then I
checked the S terminal on the unused new solenoid and found it was
grounded. Hatteras calls for internally grounded solenoids. So only one
of the small terminal is used for the positive ignition wire and on the
old solenoid it was "S". The new solenoids look absolutely identical but
the "S" appears to be grounded with a max ohm reading and the "R" has no
reading so may be positive? Is this Taiwan getting things backwards or
is there some kind of standard for what the "S" and "R" mean? Ugh. It
look like I have been feeding the ignition circuit to ground!
Ron
-----Original Message-----
Wrom: VLMHAALPTCXLYRWTQTIPWIGYOKSTTZRCLBDXRQ
Sent: Monday, April 26, 2004 10:51 AM
To: rwhb@msn.com; 1 trawler list
Subject: TWL: Pre-engaged starter mysteries
If there is # 8 wire to the selenoid, there must be another relay. A
relay between the start button or ignition starter circuit is common.
All of my trucks have this, as have most of my boats with larger
engines. ( one of the problems which also crops up with this type of
circuit is a neutral safety switch--some cars even have a switch where
you have to step on the brake before the current will go to the starter
selenoid--because of the several contact points, the current demand at
these switches is low--thus an extra relay)
Bob Austin
At 06:39 PM 4/26/04 -0400, you wrote:
You're right about that Bob. In fact I discovered today that the ANL 50
amp fuse for the solenoid/ignition switch - which is placed in the
circuit right after a multi-purpose relay/solenoid - was blown. Then I
checked the S terminal on the unused new solenoid and found it was
grounded. Hatteras calls for internally grounded solenoids. So only one
of the small terminal is used for the positive ignition wire and on the
old solenoid it was "S". The new solenoids look absolutely identical but
the "S" appears to be grounded with a max ohm reading and the "R" has no
reading so may be positive? Is this Taiwan getting things backwards or
is there some kind of standard for what the "S" and "R" mean? Ugh. It
look like I have been feeding the ignition circuit to ground!
I hope everyone who is following this thread realizes how easy it is to mix
up connections when you disassemble a piece of gear and the trouble it can
cause? If I am not mistaken Ron may have referred to this in an early post
on this matter, the fact that he had not marked the wires when he took them
off or something to that effect? If you don't have a digital camera, get
one! Before you disassemble any piece of gear take several shots from
different angles with the digital camera. You then have a photo record of
how it goes back together.
Jim Alexander
This is a great idea. But in this instance, it sounds like the replacement
part purchased does not have exactly matching terminals. Further, it has
been suggested that what has failed is the relay - a separate part. I'll
probably be facing similar problem over time and I hope that I can develop a
"crosswalk" between original parts and similar new ones.
Ron Rogers (The Other Ron)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Alexander" 89Vista43@comcast.net
|
| I hope everyone who is following this thread realizes how easy it is to
mix
| up connections when you disassemble a piece of gear and the trouble it can
| cause? If I am not mistaken Ron may have referred to this in an early
post
| on this matter, the fact that he had not marked the wires when he took
them
| off or something to that effect? If you don't have a digital camera, get
| one! Before you disassemble any piece of gear take several shots from
| different angles with the digital camera. You then have a photo record of
| how it goes back together.
This is a great idea. But in this instance, it sounds like the replacement
part purchased does not have exactly matching terminals. Further, it has
been suggested that what has failed is the relay - a separate part. I'll
probably be facing similar problem over time and I hope that I can develop a
"crosswalk" between original parts and similar new ones.
Ron Rogers (The Other Ron)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Alexander" 89Vista43@comcast.net
|
| I hope everyone who is following this thread realizes how easy it is to
mix
| up connections when you disassemble a piece of gear and the trouble it can
| cause? If I am not mistaken Ron may have referred to this in an early
post
| on this matter, the fact that he had not marked the wires when he took
them
| off or something to that effect? If you don't have a digital camera, get
| one! Before you disassemble any piece of gear take several shots from
| different angles with the digital camera. You then have a photo record of
| how it goes back together.