While modifying my polishing system to allow for more direct output to each of
my four fuel tanks via a dedicated manifold, I had occasion to replace the clear
vinyl tubing.  In the past, I always replaced old and dirty tubing by simply
closing the valve at the bottom end and using a small container to collect the
minimal contents of the tubing after the top connection was undone.  I'd just
lower the top end into the container as I lowered it into the bilge below the
level of the still-intact lower connection.  Then I would disconnect the lower
connection ensuring a rag was handy to collect the few drops of fuel left in
there.

This time, all tanks were nearly full.  My newest tactic involves disconnecting
the upper part of the sight tube and with the bottom valve open, blowing all the
fuel in the tube down until I hear bubbles in the tank.  Quickly closing the
valve leaves a nice empty tube to pull off.  Four changed with not a drop spilt.

Ta-da!

Rich Gano
CALYPSO (GB-42 #295)
Southport, FL (near Panama City)

I have to do that too.  The PO had painted a line and 50, 100, 150, etc on the existing tubing and over the years I have found it to be quite accurate.  What kind of tubing would be recommended?  Any better ideas for indicating fuel level besides what appears to be just white paint with a fine brush?  It's diesel by the way.  I think the tube is 3/8".

Greg Bowers

www.seaplanetearth.com

While modifying my polishing system to allow for more direct output to each of
my four fuel tanks via a dedicated manifold, I had occasion to replace the clear
vinyl tubing.  In the past, I always replaced old and dirty tubing by simply
closing the valve at the bottom end and using a small container to collect the
minimal contents of the tubing after the top connection was undone.  I'd just
lower the top end into the container as I lowered it into the bilge below the
level of the still-intact lower connection.  Then I would disconnect the lower
connection ensuring a rag was handy to collect the few drops of fuel left in
there.

This time, all tanks were nearly full.  My newest tactic involves disconnecting
the upper part of the sight tube and with the bottom valve open, blowing all the
fuel in the tube down until I hear bubbles in the tank.  Quickly closing the
valve leaves a nice empty tube to pull off.  Four changed with not a drop spilt.

Ta-da!

Rich Gano
CALYPSO (GB-42 #295)
Southport, FL (near Panama City)

I've been reading about fuel tank sight gauges and thought some of you might
find my innovation interesting.

I've always been in the practice of stopping the filling of my tanks at
about 7/8ths tank level, as shown on the fuel gauges.  Our current boat had
no fuel gauges and relied on a dip rod to measure the tank levels.  That
meant no fuel gauge to know when to stop filling before fuel came out the
breather.  We considered whether to install a fuel gauge.  Instead, we
decided to put two float switches in each tank.  The highest switch is about
an 1-1/4" from the top.  The second switch is about 2-1/2" from the top.
The highest switch goes to a box and a green LED light labeled "Full".  The
lower switch goes to an orange light labeled "Near".  There's a power switch
on the box that can turn off the LEDs.

So, as I'm filling a tank, the orange "Near" light comes on.  I then know
I'm about 13 gallons away from the green "Full" light coming on.  The box is
visible from both fuel caps, which makes filling the tanks pretty much a
"no-worries" one person job.

I know how big my tanks are and how much fuel I typically use per hour.
Also, as a matter of practice I never run the tanks down to minimum levels.
So, I much prefer this system to normal fuel gauges.

The whole project cost me less than $150 for 4 float switches, brass pipe
nipples, wire and LED lights.  If anyone would like to see the finished box,
I can email a photo to you.

Roger Purdom
O-So-Slo II

Hi Greg

Our sight glasses are plain old clear PVC tubing. They are 6 years old and still not in need of replacing. Instead of marking the tubing, we simply took a black magic marker and marked the tank.

You folks that are somewhat less cash-strapped than we are might chose to go with honest-to-god, made-specifically-for-diesel clear hose and engraved bronze plates (grin), but, until we win the lottery, we have to stick to inexpensive and simple.

By the way, our sight-glasses go into the top of the tank. No valve needed, and no spill when the tubing is removed from the upper fitting, no matter how full the tank is.

Now before everyone writes and poo-poos this, I'll repeat it- the sight-glasses go into the "top" of the tank, not "towards the top of the tank".

Rudy
Briney Bug, Panama City, Fl

Good info Rudy and I enjoyed your e-mailed article on ground tackle.....

I had no idea that you are such a salt....(Notice I didn't say "Old salt")
----- Original Message -----
From: Rudy and Jillmailto:rudysechez@yahoo.com
To: Greg Bowersmailto:gregb@jgbowers.com
Cc: listmailto:trawlers@lists.trawlering.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 26, 2011 2:06 PM
Subject: Re: T&T: Changing fuel tank sight gauges

Hi Greg

Our sight glasses are plain old clear PVC tubing. They are 6 years old and still not in need of replacing. Instead of marking the tubing, we simply took a black magic marker and marked the tank.

You folks that are somewhat less cash-strapped than we are might chose to go with honest-to-god, made-specifically-for-diesel clear hose and engraved bronze plates (grin), but, until we win the lottery, we have to stick to inexpensive and simple.

By the way, our sight-glasses go into the top of the tank. No valve needed, and no spill when the tubing is removed from the upper fitting, no matter how full the tank is.

Now before everyone writes and poo-poos this, I'll repeat it- the sight-glasses go into the "top" of the tank, not "towards the top of the tank".

Rudy
Briney Bug, Panama City, Fl

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The PO had painted a line and 50, 100, 150, etc on the existing tubing and
over the years I have found it to be quite accurate.  What kind of tubing
would be recommended?  Any better ideas for indicating fuel level besides
what appears to be just white paint with a fine brush?  (endsnip)

I find the regular old clear tubing works for several years before it needs
replacing. A few bucks and a few minutes takes care of that every 5  years
or so. for markings, I got a couple of cheap wooden yard sticks and zip tied
them to the side of the tubes. My tanks are straight sided down to about the
last 30 gallons, (twin 230 gallon tanks) and I know they hold 8.52 gallons
per inch, so it's easy to tell where I'm at. I can get to within 5 gallons
over all to how much fuel I need at fill up with this method.

Brent Hodges