<<The current plan is to take the guts of one of these carry-around ice chests (you know, the ones with the little metal plates for keeping food cool) and stick that in there as a means of holding ice a bit longer that would otherwise be the case. Since the cooling plate thingy is free (given to me by a friend), I don't have much to lose. Anybody with a comment is welcomed to do so.>> These Thermo-electric coolers are simple, cheap, and long lived. Unfortunately, they are much less efficient (I think about 2-3 times) than a freon/compressor type of refrigeration. Worth having if you can stand the amps, for instance, while underway. <<As part of this rework, I am renewing the seals around the lid of the box and may replace the insulation in the lid. The current insulation is that cheapo white styrofoam like you get in the cheapo ice chests from WALMART. It is contained by a 2-inch deep stainless steel pan the attaches to the top. I am wondering what the highest R-rating material is that would be simple to cut up or pour into this thing. I'll appreciate your input.>> White beadboard like you have now has an R-value around 3 per inch, depending on how well made it is, but is transparent to moisture, so makes very poor refrig insulation. Real styrofoam (no beads and usually light blue) is about R4/inch. 2-lb/cu ft density urethane foam (board or pourable, or spray can) has R 5/inch. Foil faced polyisocyanate foam board is around 6.5/inch, and is readily available from many building supply centers in 4X8 sheets in 1/2 and 3/4 inch thicknesses. Cost is nearly proportional to R-value, so take your pick. ===== Mark Richter, M.E., aboard M/V Winnie the Pooh, custom Morgan 46 Pilothouse Efficiency Trawler. "Mark's Mobile Marine" electrical systems repair & consulting. Homeport Stuart, FL __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/