Mike Liddle asked about...
Fakarava, French Polynesia
This is definitely an island I had not heard of. Has anybody had any trips
there or have any good inside info? Listed as top-ten islands you don't
know on MSN.
Dennis replies....
I have some remarkable memories of Fakarava. Esther and I had been sailing
from Panama across the South Pacific via the Galapagos, Marquesas, and
Touamotus (where Fakarava is located) bound for the Society Islands and
Tahiti.
We just happened to be on shore in Fakarava when my Captain, who was
already wheel chair bound, broke his leg while doing some simple exercises
in the cockpit of the boat, a 38 foot Cheoy Lee sloop. There was only a
small medical clinic there, mostly for dealing with births, tooth pulling
and inoculations. As I recall, its about 300 sailing miles from there to
Papette, the center of French Polynesia and the only real medical
facilities. My Captain had a very complicated break, was going into shock,
and needed to be air evacuated to Papette.
The locals and the other yachties anchored there were extremely helpful in
all ways. Later, Esther and I sailed the boat on to Papette and stayed
around while the Captain recuperated in the local hospital.
Fakarava has, to my knowledge, only one real settlement, perhaps a couple
of hundred people at most, is a center of black pearl culture, as well as a
small but excellent diving location with a couple of small businesses
catering to small numbers of tourists. Its needs are brought in from
Papette weekly by a freighter which plies its way through all the out
islands of French Polynesia. It is one on the only islands in that group
with an airstrip, which most likely saved the life of my Skipper.
For more on the culture of this part of French Polynesia, see my website
below, and find the narrative of the log of S/V Panacea (under trips on
other's boats). There is a lot of text and several pictures of this area,
as well as coverage of the whole trip from Panama to Papette. Keep in mind
this was ten years ago and things may have changed, generally not for the
better.
Also of interest, and how things have changed is the fact that the several
blue water cruises since then have all been on Nordhavns. Stabilized,
watermakers, multiple gensets, wing engines, refrigeration, freezers, air
conditioners, chart plotters overlaying radar screens, satellite phones and
TV's, e-mail at sea, and who knows what else. I'm wondering how we were
able to do it. But, again, it was ten years ago.
Incidentally, my former Skipper remains a good friend, has given up his
sailing around the world dream, and now owns and operates the largest
garden center business in Vermont, near my former home, Four Seasons, in
Williston, VT.
Dennis
Dennis Bruckel, Cruising Editor
Waterway Guide
Albin 27 Sadie B
407 414 0531
website www.debruckel.com