Brass, Steel, Stainless Small Pipe Adapters
Mike:
Good points. Speaking of vibration, it's difficult to guess the natural
frequency of any lashup like this. Murphy says it will be close to the normal
operating RPM. To eliminate any possibility of vibration, consider a run of
Aeroquip from the gallery to a bracket and clamp the tee to that. If the engine
has a damped gauge panel, you can often attach it to that. Off the engine is
of course, better if the harness allows it. Whatever is done, if using pipe,
be sure to use a minimum of sch 80 and stay away from close nipples, which are
more prone to fail than longer ones which have some un-threaded length to
them. If the port in the gallery isn't equipped already, insert a plug of lead
in the first male fitting and drill it with a 1/16" bit to keep the oil loss
down in event of a failure.
Regards,
John
"Seahorse"
Mike Maurice writes:
<snip> It so happens that I am studying this particular subject as I want to mount 2 sensors on a single oil gallery hole on a metric built engine. My present plan is to use a male BSPT steel fitting with a female NPTF adapter to which I can insert a steel "T" fitting with a male NPTF and 2 female NPTF for the sensors. This lashup should be much stronger than one built out of brass fittings.This may not seem like much of an issue for most purposes, but in any
boat intended to make blue water passages, every detail counts and I
have seen too many small brass fittings fail, where they were
attached to an engine and vibrated to failure.
Truelove39@aol.com
At 01:02 PM 3/1/2006 -0500, you wrote:
operating RPM. To eliminate any possibility of vibration, consider a run of
Aeroquip from the gallery to a bracket and clamp the tee to that. If
the engine
The additional suggestions in your post are excellent ones.
I am a little nervous about the flex hose section. They are prone to
fraying if rubbing against anything and I have seen such fail with
disastrous consequences. The lines that really worry me are anything
with diesel, oil of any kind, etc. that can burn and that is under
pressure. Such is the source of a major fire.
I would prefer to have all such materials contained inside solid pipe
of some kind. Anti freeze coolant, water and such are not a fire
hazard even under pressure and I don't worry as much about them leaking.
I wish that the hose used in these fire hazard materials had a red
colored layer just below the outer skin such that if it frayed the
red color would be exposed and maybe be seen in time to avert a
complete failure. This is one of those simple to think of ideas, but
difficult to find solutions.
Mike
Capt. Mike Maurice
Tualatin(Portland), Oregon
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Maurice
.
I am a little nervous about the flex hose section. They are prone to
fraying if rubbing against anything and I have seen such fail with
disastrous consequences.
REPLY
At least flex hose has a SS braid on the outside. Wires have no such
protection.
On several occasions I have been compelled to fabricate support brackets
onto which I clip extra wires for instrument harnesses etc.
I use the regular cad plated steel shelf brackets found in most hardware
stores.
I drill out one or two holes to the required size then fit bolts that
match the threaded blind holes found on most engine blocks. To clip the
wires I use the metal P straps with an neoprene insert to support hose
and or wires at close intervals.
NOTE! ABYC specifically prohibits using oil or fuel lines as wire
support for obvious reasons.
Arild
On Mar 1, 2006, at 21:29, Mike Maurice wrote:
John,
I have been quite successful in changing the natural vibration
frequency of pipes by using ty-wraps.
I will try to describe verbally.
I take one heavy duty ty-wrap and wrap it around the pipe, but not
too tight yet.
I then another one and wrap it around a pipe, structure, etc that is
close by, but not too close, again, not too tight.
Then, I slip a third ty-wrap under the first and second one and make
a loop.
I then tighten the first too, and slowly tighten the third one until
it is snug.
Then I operate the machine until I see how it vibrates. I carefully
tighten the one making the loop under the vibration is abated.
be careful, can overdue.
Has worked for years.....
BTW, wimpy ty-wraps does not work well unless you are doing the above
with only electrical wire.....
Lee
Ankara
Truelove39@aol.com
At 01:02 PM 3/1/2006 -0500, you wrote:
operating RPM. To eliminate any possibility of vibration, consider
a run of
Aeroquip from the gallery to a bracket and clamp the tee to that. If
the engine
The additional suggestions in your post are excellent ones.
I am a little nervous about the flex hose section. They are prone to
fraying if rubbing against anything and I have seen such fail with
disastrous consequences. The lines that really worry me are anything
with diesel, oil of any kind, etc. that can burn and that is under
pressure. Such is the source of a major fire.
I would prefer to have all such materials contained inside solid pipe
of some kind. Anti freeze coolant, water and such are not a fire
hazard even under pressure and I don't worry as much about them leaking.
I wish that the hose used in these fire hazard materials had a red
colored layer just below the outer skin such that if it frayed the
red color would be exposed and maybe be seen in time to avert a
complete failure. This is one of those simple to think of ideas, but
difficult to find solutions.
Mike
Capt. Mike Maurice
Tualatin(Portland), Oregon
John,
I have been quite successful in changing the natural vibration
frequency of pipes by using ty-wraps.
I will try to describe verbally.
I take one heavy duty ty-wrap and wrap it around the pipe, but not
too tight yet.
I then another one and wrap it around a pipe, structure, etc that is
close by, but not too close, again, not too tight.
Then, I slip a third ty-wrap under the first and second one and make
a loop.
I then tighten the first too, and slowly tighten the third one until
it is snug.
Then I operate the machine until I see how it vibrates. I carefully
tighten the one making the loop under the vibration is abated.
be careful, can overdue.
Has worked for years.....
BTW, wimpy ty-wraps does not work well unless you are doing the above
with only electrical wire.....
Lee
Ankara
Truelove39@aol.com
At 01:02 PM 3/1/2006 -0500, you wrote:
operating RPM. To eliminate any possibility of vibration, consider
a run of
Aeroquip from the gallery to a bracket and clamp the tee to that. If
the engine
The additional suggestions in your post are excellent ones.
I am a little nervous about the flex hose section. They are prone to
fraying if rubbing against anything and I have seen such fail with
disastrous consequences. The lines that really worry me are anything
with diesel, oil of any kind, etc. that can burn and that is under
pressure. Such is the source of a major fire.
I would prefer to have all such materials contained inside solid pipe
of some kind. Anti freeze coolant, water and such are not a fire
hazard even under pressure and I don't worry as much about them leaking.
I wish that the hose used in these fire hazard materials had a red
colored layer just below the outer skin such that if it frayed the
red color would be exposed and maybe be seen in time to avert a
complete failure. This is one of those simple to think of ideas, but
difficult to find solutions.
Mike
Capt. Mike Maurice
Tualatin(Portland), Oregon
Has anyone else discovered this trick? My Racors (dual 900 and triple 1000)
are a little low in my engine room and draining them is a PITA. Once or
twice I have changed the filters without draining the unit. This is not
real good as you can see the junk pour back into the cylinder when you pull
the filter element out. I am always surprised by the gusher that comes from
pulling that little plug at the bottom. No matter what I have ready in
terms of funnels, hoses and buckets I end up with a splash of diesel on me.
Yesterday, I discovered that a much better way for my arrangement is to
remove the element and then pull the dirty fuel out from the top. A folded
in half and rolled up diaper (sorb, or whatever you want to call them) did
the job very efficiently. If you roll it right, it fits perfectly and pulls
most of the fuel in two or three dippings. Blue gloves help a lot. A five
gallon bucket next to it to catch the drips and to wring out the diaper kept
it all pretty tidy. You cannot sponge out the fuel in the lower sight glass
but that amount can be easily caught in a small yogurt container without the
big "flood." Dipping the diaper also grabs any junk (black stuff) on the
sides of the filter cylinder.
Was it Cap'n Will who used to say: "Boating is easy once you have it all
figured out." When will that day come...
Eric Thoman
Abyssinia
www.kayaktransport.com