CW
Chris Wilson
Sun, Jun 10, 2012 9:30 PM
10/06/2012 22:26
My Thunderbolt, PSU and antenna should arrive this week. I would like
to put out it outside my shack, which is an upstairs room in a bungalow.
Outside of the plasterboard walls of my room is a big empty roof space. Can
I put the TB in there, with it's PSU and feed the antenna wire out
under a ridge tile and have the antenna itself on an aluminium bracket
with a clear sky view on the ridge of the roof.? It would mean a cable
from the output of the TB back into my room of about 10 or so feet.
Anything I need to watch for, does the PSU run particularly warm? How
much current do they draw off the mains, it's not going to cost a bomb
leaving it on 24 hours a day, is it? Thanks.
--
Best Regards,
Chris Wilson.
mailto: chris@chriswilson.tv
10/06/2012 22:26
My Thunderbolt, PSU and antenna should arrive this week. I would like
to put out it outside my shack, which is an upstairs room in a bungalow.
Outside of the plasterboard walls of my room is a big empty roof space. Can
I put the TB in there, with it's PSU and feed the antenna wire out
under a ridge tile and have the antenna itself on an aluminium bracket
with a clear sky view on the ridge of the roof.? It would mean a cable
from the output of the TB back into my room of about 10 or so feet.
Anything I need to watch for, does the PSU run particularly warm? How
much current do they draw off the mains, it's not going to cost a bomb
leaving it on 24 hours a day, is it? Thanks.
--
Best Regards,
Chris Wilson.
mailto: chris@chriswilson.tv
W
WB6BNQ
Sun, Jun 10, 2012 9:41 PM
Chris,
You would be better off having the T'boldt inside and just run more coax cable to
the antenna. The T'boldt is not weather protected in any way, so having it
exposed to the elements is definitely not a good idea. As for the outside
location, you want as much South facing clear view that you can get.
Also, you will want to isolate the T'boldt from gross ambient temperature
shifts. For instance, house it inside of a Styrofoam container such as a those
cheap 6 pack beer ones you can get a the grocery store. You can leave the power
supply outside of the container.
Bill....WB6BNQ
Chris Wilson wrote:
10/06/2012 22:26
My Thunderbolt, PSU and antenna should arrive this week. I would like
to put out it outside my shack, which is an upstairs room in a bungalow.
Outside of the plasterboard walls of my room is a big empty roof space. Can
I put the TB in there, with it's PSU and feed the antenna wire out
under a ridge tile and have the antenna itself on an aluminium bracket
with a clear sky view on the ridge of the roof.? It would mean a cable
from the output of the TB back into my room of about 10 or so feet.
Anything I need to watch for, does the PSU run particularly warm? How
much current do they draw off the mains, it's not going to cost a bomb
leaving it on 24 hours a day, is it? Thanks.
--
Best Regards,
Chris Wilson.
mailto: chris@chriswilson.tv
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.
Chris,
You would be better off having the T'boldt inside and just run more coax cable to
the antenna. The T'boldt is not weather protected in any way, so having it
exposed to the elements is definitely not a good idea. As for the outside
location, you want as much South facing clear view that you can get.
Also, you will want to isolate the T'boldt from gross ambient temperature
shifts. For instance, house it inside of a Styrofoam container such as a those
cheap 6 pack beer ones you can get a the grocery store. You can leave the power
supply outside of the container.
Bill....WB6BNQ
Chris Wilson wrote:
> 10/06/2012 22:26
>
> My Thunderbolt, PSU and antenna should arrive this week. I would like
> to put out it outside my shack, which is an upstairs room in a bungalow.
> Outside of the plasterboard walls of my room is a big empty roof space. Can
> I put the TB in there, with it's PSU and feed the antenna wire out
> under a ridge tile and have the antenna itself on an aluminium bracket
> with a clear sky view on the ridge of the roof.? It would mean a cable
> from the output of the TB back into my room of about 10 or so feet.
> Anything I need to watch for, does the PSU run particularly warm? How
> much current do they draw off the mains, it's not going to cost a bomb
> leaving it on 24 hours a day, is it? Thanks.
>
> --
> Best Regards,
> Chris Wilson.
> mailto: chris@chriswilson.tv
>
> _______________________________________________
> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
> To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
> and follow the instructions there.
CA
Chris Albertson
Sun, Jun 10, 2012 9:46 PM
I did about the same thing, added some long some long cables but did it
differently. You can better performance if the T-bolt is in a space where
the temperature is controlled. ANY place is better than an attic which has
hot in the day and cold at night. My T-bolt is on the top shelf of a
walk-in closet housed with its power supply in a plastic case that has some
vents. The temperate in the box remains stable.
What I'd suggest in your case is moving the t-bolt to a living space in the
house and using a longer antenna lead. You can make the antenna lead as
long as you like. If you go over say 100 feet then you'd ned a higher
gain antenna but it can work with cables even longer.
On the other end the cable carrying the PPS can be long, but remember to
terminate it if you use a long coax. How long the RS232 can be depends a
little bit not the quality of the serial port on the computer. Many are
"fake rs-232" and use TTL voltages. With extenders can be any length you
like. I was able to go 50 feet using a serial cable I made with cat-5
network cable. The PPS did NOT do well at all using 50 feet of that
cable.
As I said, I found after experiments the the t-bolt is best located closer
to where it is unneeded and in heated living space. Antenna cable is
cheap. Use that 75 Ohm cable TV stuff.
On Sun, Jun 10, 2012 at 2:30 PM, Chris Wilson chris@chriswilson.tv wrote:
10/06/2012 22:26
My Thunderbolt, PSU and antenna should arrive this week. I would like
to put out it outside my shack, which is an upstairs room in a bungalow.
Outside of the plasterboard walls of my room is a big empty roof space. Can
I put the TB in there, with it's PSU and feed the antenna wire out
under a ridge tile and have the antenna itself on an aluminium bracket
with a clear sky view on the ridge of the roof.? It would mean a cable
from the output of the TB back into my room of about 10 or so feet.
Anything I need to watch for, does the PSU run particularly warm? How
much current do they draw off the mains, it's not going to cost a bomb
leaving it on 24 hours a day, is it? Thanks.
--
Best Regards,
Chris Wilson.
mailto: chris@chriswilson.tv
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to
https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.
--
Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California
I did about the same thing, added some long some long cables but did it
differently. You can better performance if the T-bolt is in a space where
the temperature is controlled. ANY place is better than an attic which has
hot in the day and cold at night. My T-bolt is on the top shelf of a
walk-in closet housed with its power supply in a plastic case that has some
vents. The temperate in the box remains stable.
What I'd suggest in your case is moving the t-bolt to a living space in the
house and using a longer antenna lead. You can make the antenna lead as
long as you like. If you go over say 100 feet then you'd ned a higher
gain antenna but it can work with cables even longer.
On the other end the cable carrying the PPS can be long, but remember to
terminate it if you use a long coax. How long the RS232 can be depends a
little bit not the quality of the serial port on the computer. Many are
"fake rs-232" and use TTL voltages. With extenders can be any length you
like. I was able to go 50 feet using a serial cable I made with cat-5
network cable. The PPS did NOT do well at all using 50 feet of that
cable.
As I said, I found after experiments the the t-bolt is best located closer
to where it is unneeded and in heated living space. Antenna cable is
cheap. Use that 75 Ohm cable TV stuff.
On Sun, Jun 10, 2012 at 2:30 PM, Chris Wilson <chris@chriswilson.tv> wrote:
>
>
> 10/06/2012 22:26
>
> My Thunderbolt, PSU and antenna should arrive this week. I would like
> to put out it outside my shack, which is an upstairs room in a bungalow.
> Outside of the plasterboard walls of my room is a big empty roof space. Can
> I put the TB in there, with it's PSU and feed the antenna wire out
> under a ridge tile and have the antenna itself on an aluminium bracket
> with a clear sky view on the ridge of the roof.? It would mean a cable
> from the output of the TB back into my room of about 10 or so feet.
> Anything I need to watch for, does the PSU run particularly warm? How
> much current do they draw off the mains, it's not going to cost a bomb
> leaving it on 24 hours a day, is it? Thanks.
>
> --
> Best Regards,
> Chris Wilson.
> mailto: chris@chriswilson.tv
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
> To unsubscribe, go to
> https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
> and follow the instructions there.
>
--
Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California
B
bg@lysator.liu.se
Sun, Jun 10, 2012 9:50 PM
Hi Chris,
Even if this is the datasheet of a later version, it gives an overall
picture of what you ask about.
http://trl.trimble.com/docushare/dsweb/Get/Document-383329/022542-010B_Thunderbolt-E_DS_0807.pdf
The Tbolt perform (even) better with stable temperature surroundings. 3m
of antenna cable is no problem. Antenna position is more important than
the exact type of antenna. I'd rather have a decent antenna at a very good
site, than a very good antenna at a slightly worse antenna site.
My Tbolt with internal 24VDC PSU draws 200mA at 24V -> ca 5W. This is in
steady state at about 22C.
--
Björn
10/06/2012 22:26
My Thunderbolt, PSU and antenna should arrive this week. I would like
to put out it outside my shack, which is an upstairs room in a bungalow.
Outside of the plasterboard walls of my room is a big empty roof space.
Can
I put the TB in there, with it's PSU and feed the antenna wire out
under a ridge tile and have the antenna itself on an aluminium bracket
with a clear sky view on the ridge of the roof.? It would mean a cable
from the output of the TB back into my room of about 10 or so feet.
Anything I need to watch for, does the PSU run particularly warm? How
much current do they draw off the mains, it's not going to cost a bomb
leaving it on 24 hours a day, is it? Thanks.
--
Best Regards,
Chris Wilson.
mailto: chris@chriswilson.tv
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to
https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.
Hi Chris,
Even if this is the datasheet of a later version, it gives an overall
picture of what you ask about.
http://trl.trimble.com/docushare/dsweb/Get/Document-383329/022542-010B_Thunderbolt-E_DS_0807.pdf
The Tbolt perform (even) better with stable temperature surroundings. 3m
of antenna cable is no problem. Antenna position is more important than
the exact type of antenna. I'd rather have a decent antenna at a very good
site, than a very good antenna at a slightly worse antenna site.
My Tbolt with internal 24VDC PSU draws 200mA at 24V -> ca 5W. This is in
steady state at about 22C.
--
Björn
>
>
> 10/06/2012 22:26
>
> My Thunderbolt, PSU and antenna should arrive this week. I would like
> to put out it outside my shack, which is an upstairs room in a bungalow.
> Outside of the plasterboard walls of my room is a big empty roof space.
> Can
> I put the TB in there, with it's PSU and feed the antenna wire out
> under a ridge tile and have the antenna itself on an aluminium bracket
> with a clear sky view on the ridge of the roof.? It would mean a cable
> from the output of the TB back into my room of about 10 or so feet.
> Anything I need to watch for, does the PSU run particularly warm? How
> much current do they draw off the mains, it's not going to cost a bomb
> leaving it on 24 hours a day, is it? Thanks.
>
> --
> Best Regards,
> Chris Wilson.
> mailto: chris@chriswilson.tv
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
> To unsubscribe, go to
> https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
> and follow the instructions there.
>
BC
Bob Camp
Sun, Jun 10, 2012 10:29 PM
Hi
Get a chunk of RG-6 quad shield satellite TV coax from your local big box store. If the TBolt is 50' away from the antenna that's fine. Unless you have a very unusual home, you should be able to hit the antenna with 50' of cable. As others have said, you want the TBolt in a well controlled environment.
Bob
On Jun 10, 2012, at 5:30 PM, Chris Wilson wrote:
10/06/2012 22:26
My Thunderbolt, PSU and antenna should arrive this week. I would like
to put out it outside my shack, which is an upstairs room in a bungalow.
Outside of the plasterboard walls of my room is a big empty roof space. Can
I put the TB in there, with it's PSU and feed the antenna wire out
under a ridge tile and have the antenna itself on an aluminium bracket
with a clear sky view on the ridge of the roof.? It would mean a cable
from the output of the TB back into my room of about 10 or so feet.
Anything I need to watch for, does the PSU run particularly warm? How
much current do they draw off the mains, it's not going to cost a bomb
leaving it on 24 hours a day, is it? Thanks.
--
Best Regards,
Chris Wilson.
mailto: chris@chriswilson.tv
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.
Hi
Get a chunk of RG-6 quad shield satellite TV coax from your local big box store. If the TBolt is 50' away from the antenna that's fine. Unless you have a very unusual home, you should be able to hit the antenna with 50' of cable. As others have said, you want the TBolt in a well controlled environment.
Bob
On Jun 10, 2012, at 5:30 PM, Chris Wilson wrote:
>
>
> 10/06/2012 22:26
>
> My Thunderbolt, PSU and antenna should arrive this week. I would like
> to put out it outside my shack, which is an upstairs room in a bungalow.
> Outside of the plasterboard walls of my room is a big empty roof space. Can
> I put the TB in there, with it's PSU and feed the antenna wire out
> under a ridge tile and have the antenna itself on an aluminium bracket
> with a clear sky view on the ridge of the roof.? It would mean a cable
> from the output of the TB back into my room of about 10 or so feet.
> Anything I need to watch for, does the PSU run particularly warm? How
> much current do they draw off the mains, it's not going to cost a bomb
> leaving it on 24 hours a day, is it? Thanks.
>
> --
> Best Regards,
> Chris Wilson.
> mailto: chris@chriswilson.tv
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
> To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
> and follow the instructions there.
CA
Chris Albertson
Sun, Jun 10, 2012 11:24 PM
... 3m
of antenna cable is no problem. Antenna position is more important than
the exact type of antenna. I'd rather have a decent antenna at a very good
site, than a very good antenna at a slightly worse antenna site
3M is trivial. 30M will work fine too.
I agree about the location really mattering more than anything else. What
I did was drill a 2" hole through the roof up from the attic and push a 10
foot gallanvised iron plumbing pipe up. The antenna sits on thop ithe
pipe and is higher then the roof top ridge and then the cable go down the
center of the pipe. I pipe flange on top of the pipe makes a perfect
mounting platform. I used a timing antenna comes inside a white pointed
plastic radome. These sell for just under $30 on eBay. Maybe it is
coincidence or not but the four holes pin the standard pipe flange match up
with the four holes in the bottom of my antenna and there is enough room
inside the hole in the center for an "N" connector. It is worth getting
the antenna "done right" because it is the most important part of the
entire system. Those dome type antenna are worth it. the shape is
designed to shed both bird poop, and snow. Birds can be an issue with a
flat top antenna, no snow here.
Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California
On Sun, Jun 10, 2012 at 2:50 PM, <bg@lysator.liu.se> wrote:
> ... 3m
> of antenna cable is no problem. Antenna position is more important than
> the exact type of antenna. I'd rather have a decent antenna at a very good
> site, than a very good antenna at a slightly worse antenna site
3M is trivial. 30M will work fine too.
I agree about the location really mattering more than anything else. What
I did was drill a 2" hole through the roof up from the attic and push a 10
foot gallanvised iron plumbing pipe up. The antenna sits on thop ithe
pipe and is higher then the roof top ridge and then the cable go down the
center of the pipe. I pipe flange on top of the pipe makes a perfect
mounting platform. I used a timing antenna comes inside a white pointed
plastic radome. These sell for just under $30 on eBay. Maybe it is
coincidence or not but the four holes pin the standard pipe flange match up
with the four holes in the bottom of my antenna and there is enough room
inside the hole in the center for an "N" connector. It is worth getting
the antenna "done right" because it is the most important part of the
entire system. Those dome type antenna are worth it. the shape is
designed to shed both bird poop, and snow. Birds can be an issue with a
flat top antenna, no snow here.
Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California
B
bg@lysator.liu.se
Sun, Jun 10, 2012 11:34 PM
... 3m
of antenna cable is no problem. Antenna position is more important than
the exact type of antenna. I'd rather have a decent antenna at a very
good
site, than a very good antenna at a slightly worse antenna site
3M is trivial. 30M will work fine too.
I agree about the location really mattering more than anything else. What
I did was drill a 2" hole through the roof up from the attic and push a 10
foot gallanvised iron plumbing pipe up. The antenna sits on thop ithe
pipe and is higher then the roof top ridge and then the cable go down the
center of the pipe. I pipe flange on top of the pipe makes a perfect
mounting platform. I used a timing antenna comes inside a white pointed
plastic radome. These sell for just under $30 on eBay. Maybe it is
coincidence or not but the four holes pin the standard pipe flange match
up
with the four holes in the bottom of my antenna and there is enough room
inside the hole in the center for an "N" connector. It is worth getting
the antenna "done right" because it is the most important part of the
entire system. Those dome type antenna are worth it. the shape is
designed to shed both bird poop, and snow. Birds can be an issue with a
flat top antenna, no snow here.
Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California
The Trimble Bullit antenna has a 1" thread that will mate with a plumbing
pipe directly. The F-connector will fit through it. Be a bit careful,
since the pipe will have conical threads you might break the antenna if
using to much force.
--
Björn
> On Sun, Jun 10, 2012 at 2:50 PM, <bg@lysator.liu.se> wrote:
>
>> ... 3m
>> of antenna cable is no problem. Antenna position is more important than
>> the exact type of antenna. I'd rather have a decent antenna at a very
>> good
>> site, than a very good antenna at a slightly worse antenna site
>
>
>
> 3M is trivial. 30M will work fine too.
>
> I agree about the location really mattering more than anything else. What
> I did was drill a 2" hole through the roof up from the attic and push a 10
> foot gallanvised iron plumbing pipe up. The antenna sits on thop ithe
> pipe and is higher then the roof top ridge and then the cable go down the
> center of the pipe. I pipe flange on top of the pipe makes a perfect
> mounting platform. I used a timing antenna comes inside a white pointed
> plastic radome. These sell for just under $30 on eBay. Maybe it is
> coincidence or not but the four holes pin the standard pipe flange match
> up
> with the four holes in the bottom of my antenna and there is enough room
> inside the hole in the center for an "N" connector. It is worth getting
> the antenna "done right" because it is the most important part of the
> entire system. Those dome type antenna are worth it. the shape is
> designed to shed both bird poop, and snow. Birds can be an issue with a
> flat top antenna, no snow here.
> Chris Albertson
> Redondo Beach, California
The Trimble Bullit antenna has a 1" thread that will mate with a plumbing
pipe directly. The F-connector will fit through it. Be a bit careful,
since the pipe will have conical threads you might break the antenna if
using to much force.
--
Björn
JL
Jim Lux
Sun, Jun 10, 2012 11:43 PM
On 6/10/12 4:24 PM, Chris Albertson wrote:
... 3m
of antenna cable is no problem. Antenna position is more important than
the exact type of antenna. I'd rather have a decent antenna at a very good
site, than a very good antenna at a slightly worse antenna site
3M is trivial. 30M will work fine too.
I agree about the location really mattering more than anything else. What
I did was drill a 2" hole through the roof up from the attic and push a 10
foot gallanvised iron plumbing pipe up.
you would probably want appropriate flashing around that to prevent
water (and vermin) ingress.
The antenna sits on thop ithe
pipe and is higher then the roof top ridge and then the cable go down the
center of the pipe. I pipe flange on top of the pipe makes a perfect
mounting platform. I used a timing antenna comes inside a white pointed
plastic radome. These sell for just under $30 on eBay. Maybe it is
coincidence or not but the four holes pin the standard pipe flange match up
with the four holes in the bottom of my antenna and there is enough room
inside the hole in the center for an "N" connector. It is worth getting
the antenna "done right" because it is the most important part of the
entire system. Those dome type antenna are worth it. the shape is
designed to shed both bird poop, and snow. Birds can be an issue with a
flat top antenna, no snow here.
You probably get snow every few decades (it snowed in Malibu a couple
years ago, for instance), but I wouldn't worry about snow loads, even
so. <grin>
HOWEVER, your scheme is going to be tricky to pass muster with the
National Electrical Code. Two aspects need attention:
You need to have a ground wire from the mast to the ground point
and
You need to have some form of ground of the coax shield at the point
where the coax enters the building. (a "listed antenna discharge unit"
is the usual way).
While Southern California isn't exactly the lightning capital of the
world, we do get some. A bigger concern (and the primary reason for the
code requirement) is that above ground power lines can come down and
touch your antenna.
And someone living in a more lightning prone area is going to want to
take those precautions.
The installations I've seen typically use the same general "pipe" scheme
(using rigid conduit, which looks a lot like pipe, but has a smooth
inside with no burrs) to a box on the roof, and then regular conduit
running down the outside of the building. Then at the point of
entrance, the ground bonding conductor goes from the conduit to ground,
and there's a coax grounding block in a box at the place where the hole
in the wall is.
Granted, if lightning does hit, everything connected to the antenna is
going to fry, unless you have some sort of reradiation scheme to provide
an air gap. That's what we do when we test GPS receivers destined for
space, where you don't want to take the risk of killing the expensive
flight hardware.
On 6/10/12 4:24 PM, Chris Albertson wrote:
> On Sun, Jun 10, 2012 at 2:50 PM,<bg@lysator.liu.se> wrote:
>
>> ... 3m
>> of antenna cable is no problem. Antenna position is more important than
>> the exact type of antenna. I'd rather have a decent antenna at a very good
>> site, than a very good antenna at a slightly worse antenna site
>
>
>
> 3M is trivial. 30M will work fine too.
>
> I agree about the location really mattering more than anything else. What
> I did was drill a 2" hole through the roof up from the attic and push a 10
> foot gallanvised iron plumbing pipe up.
you would probably want appropriate flashing around that to prevent
water (and vermin) ingress.
The antenna sits on thop ithe
> pipe and is higher then the roof top ridge and then the cable go down the
> center of the pipe. I pipe flange on top of the pipe makes a perfect
> mounting platform. I used a timing antenna comes inside a white pointed
> plastic radome. These sell for just under $30 on eBay. Maybe it is
> coincidence or not but the four holes pin the standard pipe flange match up
> with the four holes in the bottom of my antenna and there is enough room
> inside the hole in the center for an "N" connector. It is worth getting
> the antenna "done right" because it is the most important part of the
> entire system. Those dome type antenna are worth it. the shape is
> designed to shed both bird poop, and snow. Birds can be an issue with a
> flat top antenna, no snow here.
You probably get snow every few decades (it snowed in Malibu a couple
years ago, for instance), but I wouldn't worry about snow loads, even
so. <grin>
HOWEVER, your scheme is going to be tricky to pass muster with the
National Electrical Code. Two aspects need attention:
You need to have a ground wire from the mast to the ground point
and
You need to have some form of ground of the coax shield at the point
where the coax enters the building. (a "listed antenna discharge unit"
is the usual way).
While Southern California isn't exactly the lightning capital of the
world, we do get some. A bigger concern (and the primary reason for the
code requirement) is that above ground power lines can come down and
touch your antenna.
And someone living in a more lightning prone area is going to want to
take those precautions.
The installations I've seen typically use the same general "pipe" scheme
(using rigid conduit, which looks a lot like pipe, but has a smooth
inside with no burrs) to a box on the roof, and then regular conduit
running down the outside of the building. Then at the point of
entrance, the ground bonding conductor goes from the conduit to ground,
and there's a coax grounding block in a box at the place where the hole
in the wall is.
Granted, if lightning does hit, everything connected to the antenna is
going to fry, unless you have some sort of reradiation scheme to provide
an air gap. That's what we do when we test GPS receivers destined for
space, where you don't want to take the risk of killing the expensive
flight hardware.
BC
Bob Camp
Mon, Jun 11, 2012 12:25 AM
On Jun 10, 2012, at 7:43 PM, Jim Lux wrote:
On 6/10/12 4:24 PM, Chris Albertson wrote:
... 3m
of antenna cable is no problem. Antenna position is more important than
the exact type of antenna. I'd rather have a decent antenna at a very good
site, than a very good antenna at a slightly worse antenna site
3M is trivial. 30M will work fine too.
I agree about the location really mattering more than anything else. What
I did was drill a 2" hole through the roof up from the attic and push a 10
foot gallanvised iron plumbing pipe up.
you would probably want appropriate flashing around that to prevent water (and vermin) ingress.
The antenna sits on thop ithe
pipe and is higher then the roof top ridge and then the cable go down the
center of the pipe. I pipe flange on top of the pipe makes a perfect
mounting platform. I used a timing antenna comes inside a white pointed
plastic radome. These sell for just under $30 on eBay. Maybe it is
coincidence or not but the four holes pin the standard pipe flange match up
with the four holes in the bottom of my antenna and there is enough room
inside the hole in the center for an "N" connector. It is worth getting
the antenna "done right" because it is the most important part of the
entire system. Those dome type antenna are worth it. the shape is
designed to shed both bird poop, and snow. Birds can be an issue with a
flat top antenna, no snow here.
You probably get snow every few decades (it snowed in Malibu a couple years ago, for instance), but I wouldn't worry about snow loads, even so. <grin>
HOWEVER, your scheme is going to be tricky to pass muster with the National Electrical Code. Two aspects need attention:
You need to have a ground wire from the mast to the ground point
and
You need to have some form of ground of the coax shield at the point where the coax enters the building. (a "listed antenna discharge unit" is the usual way).
While Southern California isn't exactly the lightning capital of the world, we do get some. A bigger concern (and the primary reason for the code requirement) is that above ground power lines can come down and touch your antenna.
And someone living in a more lightning prone area is going to want to take those precautions.
The installations I've seen typically use the same general "pipe" scheme (using rigid conduit, which looks a lot like pipe, but has a smooth inside with no burrs) to a box on the roof, and then regular conduit running down the outside of the building. Then at the point of entrance, the ground bonding conductor goes from the conduit to ground, and there's a coax grounding block in a box at the place where the hole in the wall is.
Granted, if lightning does hit, everything connected to the antenna is going to fry, unless you have some sort of reradiation scheme to provide an air gap. That's what we do when we test GPS receivers destined for space, where you don't want to take the risk of killing the expensive flight hardware.
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.
On Jun 10, 2012, at 7:43 PM, Jim Lux wrote:
> On 6/10/12 4:24 PM, Chris Albertson wrote:
>> On Sun, Jun 10, 2012 at 2:50 PM,<bg@lysator.liu.se> wrote:
>>
>>> ... 3m
>>> of antenna cable is no problem. Antenna position is more important than
>>> the exact type of antenna. I'd rather have a decent antenna at a very good
>>> site, than a very good antenna at a slightly worse antenna site
>>
>>
>>
>> 3M is trivial. 30M will work fine too.
>>
>> I agree about the location really mattering more than anything else. What
>> I did was drill a 2" hole through the roof up from the attic and push a 10
>> foot gallanvised iron plumbing pipe up.
>
> you would probably want appropriate flashing around that to prevent water (and vermin) ingress.
>
>
> The antenna sits on thop ithe
>> pipe and is higher then the roof top ridge and then the cable go down the
>> center of the pipe. I pipe flange on top of the pipe makes a perfect
>> mounting platform. I used a timing antenna comes inside a white pointed
>> plastic radome. These sell for just under $30 on eBay. Maybe it is
>> coincidence or not but the four holes pin the standard pipe flange match up
>> with the four holes in the bottom of my antenna and there is enough room
>> inside the hole in the center for an "N" connector. It is worth getting
>> the antenna "done right" because it is the most important part of the
>> entire system. Those dome type antenna are worth it. the shape is
>> designed to shed both bird poop, and snow. Birds can be an issue with a
>> flat top antenna, no snow here.
>
> You probably get snow every few decades (it snowed in Malibu a couple years ago, for instance), but I wouldn't worry about snow loads, even so. <grin>
>
>
> HOWEVER, your scheme is going to be tricky to pass muster with the National Electrical Code. Two aspects need attention:
> You need to have a ground wire from the mast to the ground point
> and
> You need to have some form of ground of the coax shield at the point where the coax enters the building. (a "listed antenna discharge unit" is the usual way).
>
>
> While Southern California isn't exactly the lightning capital of the world, we do get some. A bigger concern (and the primary reason for the code requirement) is that above ground power lines can come down and touch your antenna.
>
> And someone living in a more lightning prone area is going to want to take those precautions.
>
> The installations I've seen typically use the same general "pipe" scheme (using rigid conduit, which looks a lot like pipe, but has a smooth inside with no burrs) to a box on the roof, and then regular conduit running down the outside of the building. Then at the point of entrance, the ground bonding conductor goes from the conduit to ground, and there's a coax grounding block in a box at the place where the hole in the wall is.
>
>
> Granted, if lightning does hit, everything connected to the antenna is going to fry, unless you have some sort of reradiation scheme to provide an air gap. That's what we do when we test GPS receivers destined for space, where you don't want to take the risk of killing the expensive flight hardware.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
> To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
> and follow the instructions there.
BC
Bob Camp
Mon, Jun 11, 2012 12:53 AM
Hi
Sorry for the blank…
The easy way to mount the antenna:
Head over to Home Depot and get a 1" Tee, a 1" flange, a 1" nipple, a 12" to 18" 1" pipe, and a 6" long 1" pipe.
The antenna goes on top of the 18" pipe. That screws into the tee. The bottom of the Tee gets the 6" pipe. Coax runs straight through the 18" and 6" pipe. Nipple goes to the flange and the tee. Flange mounts to the house. If you need to get a bit further out, change out the nipple for a piece of pipe.
Spray paint it all black ( or what ever) and move on.
Bob
On Jun 10, 2012, at 7:43 PM, Jim Lux wrote:
On 6/10/12 4:24 PM, Chris Albertson wrote:
... 3m
of antenna cable is no problem. Antenna position is more important than
the exact type of antenna. I'd rather have a decent antenna at a very good
site, than a very good antenna at a slightly worse antenna site
3M is trivial. 30M will work fine too.
I agree about the location really mattering more than anything else. What
I did was drill a 2" hole through the roof up from the attic and push a 10
foot gallanvised iron plumbing pipe up.
you would probably want appropriate flashing around that to prevent water (and vermin) ingress.
The antenna sits on thop ithe
pipe and is higher then the roof top ridge and then the cable go down the
center of the pipe. I pipe flange on top of the pipe makes a perfect
mounting platform. I used a timing antenna comes inside a white pointed
plastic radome. These sell for just under $30 on eBay. Maybe it is
coincidence or not but the four holes pin the standard pipe flange match up
with the four holes in the bottom of my antenna and there is enough room
inside the hole in the center for an "N" connector. It is worth getting
the antenna "done right" because it is the most important part of the
entire system. Those dome type antenna are worth it. the shape is
designed to shed both bird poop, and snow. Birds can be an issue with a
flat top antenna, no snow here.
You probably get snow every few decades (it snowed in Malibu a couple years ago, for instance), but I wouldn't worry about snow loads, even so. <grin>
HOWEVER, your scheme is going to be tricky to pass muster with the National Electrical Code. Two aspects need attention:
You need to have a ground wire from the mast to the ground point
and
You need to have some form of ground of the coax shield at the point where the coax enters the building. (a "listed antenna discharge unit" is the usual way).
While Southern California isn't exactly the lightning capital of the world, we do get some. A bigger concern (and the primary reason for the code requirement) is that above ground power lines can come down and touch your antenna.
And someone living in a more lightning prone area is going to want to take those precautions.
The installations I've seen typically use the same general "pipe" scheme (using rigid conduit, which looks a lot like pipe, but has a smooth inside with no burrs) to a box on the roof, and then regular conduit running down the outside of the building. Then at the point of entrance, the ground bonding conductor goes from the conduit to ground, and there's a coax grounding block in a box at the place where the hole in the wall is.
Granted, if lightning does hit, everything connected to the antenna is going to fry, unless you have some sort of reradiation scheme to provide an air gap. That's what we do when we test GPS receivers destined for space, where you don't want to take the risk of killing the expensive flight hardware.
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.
Hi
Sorry for the blank…
The easy way to mount the antenna:
Head over to Home Depot and get a 1" Tee, a 1" flange, a 1" nipple, a 12" to 18" 1" pipe, and a 6" long 1" pipe.
The antenna goes on top of the 18" pipe. That screws into the tee. The bottom of the Tee gets the 6" pipe. Coax runs straight through the 18" and 6" pipe. Nipple goes to the flange and the tee. Flange mounts to the house. If you need to get a bit further out, change out the nipple for a piece of pipe.
Spray paint it all black ( or what ever) and move on.
Bob
On Jun 10, 2012, at 7:43 PM, Jim Lux wrote:
> On 6/10/12 4:24 PM, Chris Albertson wrote:
>> On Sun, Jun 10, 2012 at 2:50 PM,<bg@lysator.liu.se> wrote:
>>
>>> ... 3m
>>> of antenna cable is no problem. Antenna position is more important than
>>> the exact type of antenna. I'd rather have a decent antenna at a very good
>>> site, than a very good antenna at a slightly worse antenna site
>>
>>
>>
>> 3M is trivial. 30M will work fine too.
>>
>> I agree about the location really mattering more than anything else. What
>> I did was drill a 2" hole through the roof up from the attic and push a 10
>> foot gallanvised iron plumbing pipe up.
>
> you would probably want appropriate flashing around that to prevent water (and vermin) ingress.
>
>
> The antenna sits on thop ithe
>> pipe and is higher then the roof top ridge and then the cable go down the
>> center of the pipe. I pipe flange on top of the pipe makes a perfect
>> mounting platform. I used a timing antenna comes inside a white pointed
>> plastic radome. These sell for just under $30 on eBay. Maybe it is
>> coincidence or not but the four holes pin the standard pipe flange match up
>> with the four holes in the bottom of my antenna and there is enough room
>> inside the hole in the center for an "N" connector. It is worth getting
>> the antenna "done right" because it is the most important part of the
>> entire system. Those dome type antenna are worth it. the shape is
>> designed to shed both bird poop, and snow. Birds can be an issue with a
>> flat top antenna, no snow here.
>
> You probably get snow every few decades (it snowed in Malibu a couple years ago, for instance), but I wouldn't worry about snow loads, even so. <grin>
>
>
> HOWEVER, your scheme is going to be tricky to pass muster with the National Electrical Code. Two aspects need attention:
> You need to have a ground wire from the mast to the ground point
> and
> You need to have some form of ground of the coax shield at the point where the coax enters the building. (a "listed antenna discharge unit" is the usual way).
>
>
> While Southern California isn't exactly the lightning capital of the world, we do get some. A bigger concern (and the primary reason for the code requirement) is that above ground power lines can come down and touch your antenna.
>
> And someone living in a more lightning prone area is going to want to take those precautions.
>
> The installations I've seen typically use the same general "pipe" scheme (using rigid conduit, which looks a lot like pipe, but has a smooth inside with no burrs) to a box on the roof, and then regular conduit running down the outside of the building. Then at the point of entrance, the ground bonding conductor goes from the conduit to ground, and there's a coax grounding block in a box at the place where the hole in the wall is.
>
>
> Granted, if lightning does hit, everything connected to the antenna is going to fry, unless you have some sort of reradiation scheme to provide an air gap. That's what we do when we test GPS receivers destined for space, where you don't want to take the risk of killing the expensive flight hardware.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
> To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
> and follow the instructions there.