Barrier Coat
Hi All!
Hope everyone is staying warm! Only 24F here in Mobile, Alabama this
morning.
I have just hauled my 1972 Bristol Offshore Trawler and am taking the
bottom back to gelcoat and in places fiberglass where I got carried away
with the disc sander. Pretty sure that since new before I bought it in
2002 , the boat was in dry storage every year in Lake Erie and each spring
another coat of bottom paint was put on and the oil changed just before the
vessels annual splash. There was never a barrier coat. The accumulation,
especially at the waterline where the bottom paint was thickest is about an
1/8 of an inch or so. NOT FUN! Looking for suggestions on barrier coat
brands/types. Pretty sure that I am going to go with an ablative paint for
the bottom paint. Suggestions there welcome too. Going to do the fist
coat in one color and the final two coats in another color. The boat has
been in fresh water since I bought it and now will be in salt water in
Panama City, Florida.
One more question.... Why do sink drains require through hulls. Why can't
they go just above the waterline with one less hole in the boat??? Mine
are the old big bronze tapered ones that almost have to have the two nuts
loosed to move even if they are not frozen. Having to 'unfreeze' them
all. Would put in new ones except for the $. They all still work and the
boat hasn't sunk the last forty-two years....knock on wood! Not going to
change anything, but just wondering.
Thanks in advance for any ideas/suggestions.
Don Coleman
M/V Mi Boudreaux
Turner Marine At Dog River
Mobile, Alabama
Both of my sinks drain above the waterline.
Sent from my iPad
Jim Barrentine
On Jan 24, 2014, at 9:34 AM, Don Coleman doncolemanjr@gmail.com wrote:
Hi All!
Hope everyone is staying warm! Only 24F here in Mobile, Alabama this
morning.
I have just hauled my 1972 Bristol Offshore Trawler and am taking the
bottom back to gelcoat and in places fiberglass where I got carried away
with the disc sander. Pretty sure that since new before I bought it in
2002 , the boat was in dry storage every year in Lake Erie and each spring
another coat of bottom paint was put on and the oil changed just before the
vessels annual splash. There was never a barrier coat. The accumulation,
especially at the waterline where the bottom paint was thickest is about an
1/8 of an inch or so. NOT FUN! Looking for suggestions on barrier coat
brands/types. Pretty sure that I am going to go with an ablative paint for
the bottom paint. Suggestions there welcome too. Going to do the fist
coat in one color and the final two coats in another color. The boat has
been in fresh water since I bought it and now will be in salt water in
Panama City, Florida.
One more question.... Why do sink drains require through hulls. Why can't
they go just above the waterline with one less hole in the boat??? Mine
are the old big bronze tapered ones that almost have to have the two nuts
loosed to move even if they are not frozen. Having to 'unfreeze' them
all. Would put in new ones except for the $. They all still work and the
boat hasn't sunk the last forty-two years....knock on wood! Not going to
change anything, but just wondering.
Thanks in advance for any ideas/suggestions.
Don Coleman
M/V Mi Boudreaux
Turner Marine At Dog River
Mobile, Alabama
http://lists.trawlering.com/mailman/listinfo/trawlers_lists.trawlering.com
To unsubscribe or modify your subscription options (get password, change email address, etc) go to: http://lists.trawlering.com/mailman/listinfo/trawlers_lists.trawlering.com
Trawlers & Trawlering and T&T are trademarks of Water World
Productions. Unauthorized use is prohibited.
Don. That is cold for Mobile. I am at Pickwick Lake on the head of the
TN-Tom Waterway. Last night it was 7 degrees here. That is cold for
Pickwick. Thanks to electrical heat the engine room was maintained at 37
degrees. I am ready for spring. What boat yard are you using? I used Dog
River Marina two years ago for a bottom job and they did it well.
Take care,
Chuck Hanson
Mystique
49' DeFever CPMY
-----Original Message-----
From: Trawlers-and-Trawlering [mailto:trawlers-bounces@lists.trawlering.com]
On Behalf Of Don Coleman
Sent: Friday, January 24, 2014 8:35 AM
To: trawlers@lists.trawlering.com
Subject: T&T: Barrier Coat
Hi All!
Hope everyone is staying warm! Only 24F here in Mobile, Alabama this
morning.
Snip...One more question.... Why do sink drains require through hulls. Why can't
they go just above the waterline with one less hole in the boat??? Mine
are the old big bronze tapered ones that almost have to have the two nuts
loosed to move even if they are not frozen
Reply..
Perhaps I am misunderstanding your question but to get drain water outside the boat will require a thru hull of some sort. Now, if you meant seacock then that is another issue. All of my sink drains are above waterline... simple thru hull, not a seacock.
Joel Wilkins
m/s Miss Magoo
Columbia 45
Treasure Island, FL
Don,
I too have those nice old all-bronze tapered through hulls, and do not have
to do what you describe when operating them. Sounds like yours could use a
little service.
When I 1st received our boat and hauled her I serviced the all-bronze
tapered through hulls by:
- Go to the auto store and get a small tube of valve lapping compound.
- Take apart the through hulls (the keeper nut, and the backing nut).
- Pulling the bronze taper out - Clean it and the bore well.
- Smear an amount of lapping compound on the taper, covering all surfaces.
- While holding the taper back in place in the through hull, turn the taper
until the lapping compound has evened out all the surfaces. Just use hand
pressure pressing the taper into the bore while also turning it - no need
for the nuts at this point. And when truing do complete 360 turns, do not
just work it back-n-forth. - Pull the taper out every once and a while to check the progress. When the
job is done you should be able to see nice shinny fresh metal around the
whole taper. - Again clean things in and out.
- Spread with a good amount of good quality underwater-rated grease.
- Reassemble the through hulls, taking care not to over tighten the nuts.
When properly serviced and adjusted you should be able to easily open and
close the through hulls w/o loosing and/or retightening the nuts.
I did this 14 years ago, and to this day all the through hulls still work
great. A few years back I did drop in a dollop of grease into each through
hull - adding it and turning the handle several revolutions to spread it
out.
The old all bronze tapered sea cocks are great, and providing they have not
been destroyed you will get decades of service out of them (We are on year
54).
(BTW, do NOT do the above if you have a tapered sea cock that has a tapered
rubber plug as opposed to an all-bronze one.)
Another idea, when I received our boat I noted the prior owner had use some
14g electrical wire and made a loop around the bronze sea cock and through
the handle end of the taper. This wire was a keeper wire incase the nuts
came loose and the taper tried to back out. The wire had lots of slack in
it, so no problem in opening or closing the sea cock.
And I also found that I had to make a special wrench, taking a cheap one and
grinding it thinner - to allow me to be able to properly tighten the two
nuts against each other. That is kind of a key; the two nuts put pressure
against each other at just the right amount of tension on the taper. This
is as opposed to tightening up the 1st nut, and then tightening down the 2nd
nut. That will assure you will over tighten the taper and never be able to
turn things w/o loosening them both 1st. Just bring the 1st nut until the
taper is firm, but still able to easily turn the taper. Then using the
special 'Thinned wrench', hold that 1st nut in place while bringing down the
2nd keeper nut.
Best of luck!
-al-
Viking Star
45' Monk Sr. / McQueen
mvVikingStar.blogspot.com
-----Original Message-----
On Jan 24, 2014, at 9:34 AM, Don Coleman doncolemanjr@gmail.com wrote:
One more question.... Why do sink drains require through hulls. Why
can't they go just above the waterline with one less hole in the
boat??? Mine are the old big bronze tapered ones that almost have to
have the two nuts loosed to move even if they are not frozen. Having
to 'unfreeze' them all. Would put in new ones except for the $.
They all still work and the boat hasn't sunk the last forty-two
years....knock on wood! Not going to change anything, but just wondering.
Thanks in advance for any ideas/suggestions.
Don Coleman
M/V Mi Boudreaux
Turner Marine At Dog River
Mobile, Alabama
Why do sink drains require through hulls.
If above the maximum heeled waterline (7 degrees for power boats and the shear for sailboats) the ABYC standards do not require a seacock on the thru-hull.
However, if it is a power boat that goes off-shore, then I'd recommend that any thru-hull up to the shear line have a seacock. We've been there are were glad we had them and cannot encourage this enough, including the installation of seacocks, or at least a valve on vents.
The ABYC excludes 3 installations from the requirement of a thru-hull having a seacock- engine exhausts that exit above the static waterline, cockpit drains that exit above the static waterline or any discharge line that exits above the static waterline as long as they have reinforced hoses.
Rudy and Jill
Cape Coral, Fl
Briney Bug- a 34 foot sail-assisted trawler
For speaking engagements, email or call
850-832-7748
Don
Whatever you do, when you get to Panama City, stay away from Fannin Bayou. There's a crazy T&T'r up there driving around in a big Grand Banks thinking yachting is the same as playing bumper cars.
Now, if you don't heed this warning, tell Rich we said hi, that is after you get your boat disengaged from his.
Rudy and Jill
Cape Coral, Fl
Briney Bug- a 34 foot sail-assisted trawler
For speaking engagements, email or call
850-832-7748
That guy in Fannin Bayou is definitely a ball of fire, but over here in
FanninG Bayou we are strictly professional. :)
-----Original Message-----
From: Trawlers-and-Trawlering
[mailto:trawlers-bounces@lists.trawlering.com] On
Behalf Of Rudy and Jill
Sent: Friday, January 24, 2014 3:58 PM
To: T&T
Subject: T&T: Panama City
Don
Whatever you do, when you get to Panama City, stay away from Fannin Bayou.
There's a crazy T&T'r up there driving around in a big Grand Banks
thinking
yachting is the same as playing bumper cars.
Now, if you don't heed this warning, tell Rich we said hi, that is after
you get your
boat disengaged from his.
Rudy and Jill
Cape Coral, Fl
Briney Bug- a 34 foot sail-assisted trawler
For speaking engagements, email or call
850-832-7748
http://lists.trawlering.com/mailman/listinfo/trawlers_lists.trawlering.com
To unsubscribe or modify your subscription options (get password, change
address, etc) go to:
http://lists.trawlering.com/mailman/listinfo/trawlers_lists.trawlering.com
Trawlers & Trawlering and T&T are trademarks of Water World Productions.
Unauthorized use is prohibited.
Last week I sent out a bit of info on all bronze seacocks. Today I ran
across this really good write up on them, how to adjust them, service them
and lap them.
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/tapered_cone_seacocks
Looking around his web site, there are quite a few interesting topics he has
covered.
-al-
Viking Star
45' Monk Sr. / McQueen
mvVikingStar.blogspot.com