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TWL: cetol

S
scaramouche@tvo.org
Mon, Feb 14, 2000 7:53 PM

Perhaps it depends on the quality of the teak or the refinishing
process!

Al Pilvinis wrote:

The problem is Jim the teak no longer looks like the teak you paid

for.

I too love discussing religion - perhaps we should re-name this
thread and take it to a faith oriented list?  :-)

rmcleran@ix.netcom.com writes: >Perhaps it depends on the quality of the teak or the refinishing >process! > >Al Pilvinis wrote: >> >> The problem is Jim the teak no longer looks like the teak you paid >for. I too love discussing religion - perhaps we should re-name this thread and take it to a faith oriented list? :-)
Y
yourcaptain@earthlink.net
Mon, Feb 14, 2000 8:54 PM

When things get slow I manage to stir the pot. Seems like its about to boil
over. I am already planning my next attack.
AL

---=======================

At 02:53 PM 2/14/00 -0500, you wrote:

Perhaps it depends on the quality of the teak or the refinishing
process!

Al Pilvinis wrote:

The problem is Jim the teak no longer looks like the teak you paid

for.

I too love discussing religion - perhaps we should re-name this
thread and take it to a faith oriented list?  :-)

Captain Al Pilvinis

"M/V Driftwood"--Prairie 47
2630 N.E. 41st Street
Lighthouse Point, Fl 33064-8064
Voice 954-941-2556 Fax 954 788-2666
Email - CaptainAl@Juno.com
Website http://home.earthlink.net/~yourcaptain

When things get slow I manage to stir the pot. Seems like its about to boil over. I am already planning my next attack. AL ======================================================== At 02:53 PM 2/14/00 -0500, you wrote: >rmcleran@ix.netcom.com writes: >>Perhaps it depends on the quality of the teak or the refinishing >>process! >> >>Al Pilvinis wrote: >>> >>> The problem is Jim the teak no longer looks like the teak you paid >>for. > >I too love discussing religion - perhaps we should re-name this >thread and take it to a faith oriented list? :-) > > > > Captain Al Pilvinis "M/V Driftwood"--Prairie 47 2630 N.E. 41st Street Lighthouse Point, Fl 33064-8064 Voice 954-941-2556 Fax 954 788-2666 Email - CaptainAl@Juno.com Website http://home.earthlink.net/~yourcaptain
S
skippergr@worldnet.att.net
Tue, Feb 15, 2000 8:20 AM

Well I just have to put my two pennies worth in the fray! All of these
products seem to be attempting to mirror the result with a good varnish
finish--for the most part with "maybe ok" to "awful/dismal" results. IMHO if
we want a good shippy result, nothing beats good old varnish.Sure it
requires refreshing but for myself, it is all part of the fun of boating.
BTW, my Alaskan came to us with cetol on all the brightwork including the
decks. The color is clearly orange & the decks are extremely slippery. Plan
to switch to varnish for rails ets & let the decks go gray.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob & Debbie Huddleston huddlestonB_D@email.msn.com
To: rmcleran@ix.netcom.com; trawler-world-list@samurai.com; George Geist
scaramouche@tvo.org
Sent: Tuesday, February 15, 2000 2:10 PM
Subject: Re: Re(2): TWL: cetol

AMEN!

Bob & Debbie Huddleston                            Krogen 42
AB6NI  KC6SKY                                    "The Deborah C."
HuddlestonB_D@msn.com
----- Original Message -----
From: George Geist scaramouche@tvo.org
To: rmcleran@ix.netcom.com; trawler-world-list@samurai.com
Sent: Monday, February 14, 2000 11:53 AM
Subject: Re(2): TWL: cetol

Perhaps it depends on the quality of the teak or the refinishing
process!

Al Pilvinis wrote:

The problem is Jim the teak no longer looks like the teak you paid

for.

I too love discussing religion - perhaps we should re-name this
thread and take it to a faith oriented list?  :-)

Well I just have to put my two pennies worth in the fray! All of these products seem to be attempting to mirror the result with a good varnish finish--for the most part with "maybe ok" to "awful/dismal" results. IMHO if we want a good shippy result, nothing beats good old varnish.Sure it requires refreshing but for myself, it is all part of the fun of boating. BTW, my Alaskan came to us with cetol on all the brightwork including the decks. The color is clearly orange & the decks are extremely slippery. Plan to switch to varnish for rails ets & let the decks go gray. ----- Original Message ----- From: Bob & Debbie Huddleston <huddlestonB_D@email.msn.com> To: <rmcleran@ix.netcom.com>; <trawler-world-list@samurai.com>; George Geist <scaramouche@tvo.org> Sent: Tuesday, February 15, 2000 2:10 PM Subject: Re: Re(2): TWL: cetol > AMEN! > > > > Bob & Debbie Huddleston Krogen 42 > AB6NI KC6SKY "The Deborah C." > HuddlestonB_D@msn.com > ----- Original Message ----- > From: George Geist <scaramouche@tvo.org> > To: <rmcleran@ix.netcom.com>; <trawler-world-list@samurai.com> > Sent: Monday, February 14, 2000 11:53 AM > Subject: Re(2): TWL: cetol > > > > rmcleran@ix.netcom.com writes: > > >Perhaps it depends on the quality of the teak or the refinishing > > >process! > > > > > >Al Pilvinis wrote: > > >> > > >> The problem is Jim the teak no longer looks like the teak you paid > > >for. > > > > I too love discussing religion - perhaps we should re-name this > > thread and take it to a faith oriented list? :-) > > > > > > > >
J
jet2@principia.edu
Tue, Feb 15, 2000 2:50 PM

Listees-

Here is my 2 cents on the Cetol vs Armada question.  I too was interested
in the potential differences between the products.  I redid my bow rails,
taking them all the way down to the bare wood, 2 coats of thinned Cetol and
then 3 coats of gloss.  They look great and have held up very well in the
South Carolina sun.  I redid the bow bench in the same fashion and then
used the Armada. It has not held up as well and the color is darker than I
would like.  I will be using Cetol as I refinish the remaining teak.

John Tegtmeyer
M/V DAYSTAR
KK42

At 01:27 PM 2/14/00 -0500, you wrote:

I wish I had known about Armada before I started with Cetol just so I
could have made a comparison. People on the list seem to think Armada
looks more "natural."

I have seen a trawler with teak decks "painted" with something which I
know wasn't Cetol, and they looked terrible. In fact, the owner had
stripped and sanded from varnish to bare wood on all his trim, teak deck
chairs, etc, and then refinished the natural teak decks with what ever
this stuff was. He liked it, but I felt it looked like brownish porch
paint! I hope that wasn't Armada.

Has anyone seen Armada and Cetol side by side? If so, how does the
finish compare in terms of texture and coloration?

Listees- Here is my 2 cents on the Cetol vs Armada question. I too was interested in the potential differences between the products. I redid my bow rails, taking them all the way down to the bare wood, 2 coats of thinned Cetol and then 3 coats of gloss. They look great and have held up very well in the South Carolina sun. I redid the bow bench in the same fashion and then used the Armada. It has not held up as well and the color is darker than I would like. I will be using Cetol as I refinish the remaining teak. John Tegtmeyer M/V DAYSTAR KK42 At 01:27 PM 2/14/00 -0500, you wrote: >I wish I had known about Armada before I started with Cetol just so I >could have made a comparison. People on the list seem to think Armada >looks more "natural." > >I have seen a trawler with teak decks "painted" with something which I >know wasn't Cetol, and they looked terrible. In fact, the owner had >stripped and sanded from varnish to bare wood on all his trim, teak deck >chairs, etc, and then refinished the natural teak decks with what ever >this stuff was. He liked it, but I felt it looked like brownish porch >paint! I hope that wasn't Armada. > >Has anyone seen Armada and Cetol side by side? If so, how does the >finish compare in terms of texture and coloration?
HD
huddlestonB_D@email.msn.com
Tue, Feb 15, 2000 7:00 PM

Bob & Debbie Huddleston                            Krogen 42
AB6NI  KC6SKY                                    "The Deborah C."
HuddlestonB_D@msn.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Bob McLeran rmcleran@ix.netcom.com
Cc: trawler-world-list@samurai.com
Sent: Monday, February 14, 2000 10:27 AM
Subject: Re: TWL: cetol

I wish I had known about Armada before I started with Cetol just so I
could have made a comparison. People on the list seem to think Armada
looks more "natural."

I have seen a trawler with teak decks "painted" with something which I
know wasn't Cetol, and they looked terrible. In fact, the owner had

I THINK what you were looking at is Semco. Some people love it.

Bob & Debbie Huddleston Krogen 42 AB6NI KC6SKY "The Deborah C." HuddlestonB_D@msn.com ----- Original Message ----- From: Bob McLeran <rmcleran@ix.netcom.com> Cc: <trawler-world-list@samurai.com> Sent: Monday, February 14, 2000 10:27 AM Subject: Re: TWL: cetol > I wish I had known about Armada before I started with Cetol just so I > could have made a comparison. People on the list seem to think Armada > looks more "natural." > > I have seen a trawler with teak decks "painted" with something which I > know wasn't Cetol, and they looked terrible. In fact, the owner had > I THINK what you were looking at is Semco. Some people love it.
HD
huddlestonB_D@email.msn.com
Tue, Feb 15, 2000 7:10 PM

AMEN!

Bob & Debbie Huddleston                            Krogen 42
AB6NI  KC6SKY                                    "The Deborah C."
HuddlestonB_D@msn.com
----- Original Message -----
From: George Geist scaramouche@tvo.org
To: rmcleran@ix.netcom.com; trawler-world-list@samurai.com
Sent: Monday, February 14, 2000 11:53 AM
Subject: Re(2): TWL: cetol

Perhaps it depends on the quality of the teak or the refinishing
process!

Al Pilvinis wrote:

The problem is Jim the teak no longer looks like the teak you paid

for.

I too love discussing religion - perhaps we should re-name this
thread and take it to a faith oriented list?  :-)

AMEN! Bob & Debbie Huddleston Krogen 42 AB6NI KC6SKY "The Deborah C." HuddlestonB_D@msn.com ----- Original Message ----- From: George Geist <scaramouche@tvo.org> To: <rmcleran@ix.netcom.com>; <trawler-world-list@samurai.com> Sent: Monday, February 14, 2000 11:53 AM Subject: Re(2): TWL: cetol > rmcleran@ix.netcom.com writes: > >Perhaps it depends on the quality of the teak or the refinishing > >process! > > > >Al Pilvinis wrote: > >> > >> The problem is Jim the teak no longer looks like the teak you paid > >for. > > I too love discussing religion - perhaps we should re-name this > thread and take it to a faith oriented list? :-) > >
M
MTTortuga@iline.com
Wed, Feb 16, 2000 2:52 AM

Gayle,

It is clear that you do not live in the sunny south!! :<)

If you tried the varnish trick here in SW Florida, It would be like painting
the Golden Gate bridge. Start at the bow and when you get to the stern you
will have to carry your varnish can to the bow and start over.. In South
Florida summer, varnish lasts about 3 months.

Morley
M/V Tortuga  ( CT-35,  35' Ta Chiao  )
Cape Coral,  Florida

Well I just have to put my two pennies worth in the fray! All of these
products seem to be attempting to mirror the result with a good varnish
finish--for the most part with "maybe ok" to "awful/dismal" results. IMHO

if

we want a good shippy result, nothing beats good old varnish.Sure it
requires refreshing but for myself, it is all part of the fun of boating.

Gayle, It is clear that you do not live in the sunny south!! :<) If you tried the varnish trick here in SW Florida, It would be like painting the Golden Gate bridge. Start at the bow and when you get to the stern you will have to carry your varnish can to the bow and start over.. In South Florida summer, varnish lasts about 3 months. Morley M/V Tortuga ( CT-35, 35' Ta Chiao ) Cape Coral, Florida > Well I just have to put my two pennies worth in the fray! All of these > products seem to be attempting to mirror the result with a good varnish > finish--for the most part with "maybe ok" to "awful/dismal" results. IMHO if > we want a good shippy result, nothing beats good old varnish.Sure it > requires refreshing but for myself, it is all part of the fun of boating.
S
scaramouche@tvo.org
Wed, Feb 16, 2000 3:53 AM

All of these
products seem to be attempting to mirror the result with a good
varnish
finish--for the most part with "maybe ok" to "awful/dismal" results.
IMHO if
we want a good shippy result, nothing beats good old varnish.Sure it
requires refreshing but for myself, it is all part of the fun of
boating.
BTW, my Alaskan came to us with cetol on all the brightwork
including the
decks. The color is clearly orange & the decks are extremely
slippery.

This will definitely be my last entry on the Cetol/Armada versus
varnish debate:
Armada/Cetol does not NOT want to mirror a varnish finish. If you
want a varnish finish - use varnish!
Cetol/Armada matte, if applied as intended, leaves an oiled look with
a somewhat rough grip to the wood, letting the wood breathe but at
the same time protecting it by keeping water out. All of that with a
minimum of maintenance. It's almost a religion: either you are a
varnish person or you are a Cetol person. I, as stated before belong
to the latter group, I use Armada on my grab-rails and am glad I do.
It looks good in my opinion and the opinion of many visitors. It
gives me a good secure grip when, in wet weather, I have to work my
way forward to do whatever you do on the foredeck in wet weather.
Please note: I only use Cetol/Armada matte (the original formula) and
never more than three coats.
Cetol gloss should never have been invented. Sikkens did themselves a
big disfavour by marketing the gloss version because people think
they can make Cetol look like varnish - but it ain't varnish!!!
Repeat sermon from the beginning: If you want a varnish finish - use
varnish!

Scaramouche who worked with wood since he was in his teens....

skippergr@worldnet.att.net writes: >All of these >products seem to be attempting to mirror the result with a good >varnish >finish--for the most part with "maybe ok" to "awful/dismal" results. >IMHO if >we want a good shippy result, nothing beats good old varnish.Sure it >requires refreshing but for myself, it is all part of the fun of >boating. >BTW, my Alaskan came to us with cetol on all the brightwork >including the >decks. The color is clearly orange & the decks are extremely >slippery. This will definitely be my last entry on the Cetol/Armada versus varnish debate: Armada/Cetol does not NOT want to mirror a varnish finish. If you want a varnish finish - use varnish! Cetol/Armada matte, if applied as intended, leaves an oiled look with a somewhat rough grip to the wood, letting the wood breathe but at the same time protecting it by keeping water out. All of that with a minimum of maintenance. It's almost a religion: either you are a varnish person or you are a Cetol person. I, as stated before belong to the latter group, I use Armada on my grab-rails and am glad I do. It looks good in my opinion and the opinion of many visitors. It gives me a good secure grip when, in wet weather, I have to work my way forward to do whatever you do on the foredeck in wet weather. Please note: I only use Cetol/Armada matte (the original formula) and never more than three coats. Cetol gloss should never have been invented. Sikkens did themselves a big disfavour by marketing the gloss version because people think they can make Cetol look like varnish - but it ain't varnish!!! Repeat sermon from the beginning: If you want a varnish finish - use varnish! Scaramouche who worked with wood since he was in his teens....
J
jpmunson@home.com
Wed, Feb 16, 2000 5:01 PM

Hi Everyone...

And to put my 2 cents worth in....

PassageMaker had enough brightwork for 3 boats!!  I covered it all with
varnish.  However -- comma -- I cut my varnish (Clipper) with Penetrol -
60-40.  It made the varnish flow more easily, it also made the finished
product not so brittle so if it accidentally got dinged, it didn't fracture,
thus no problems with moisture getting underneath through the fissures.  You
can't, however, just patch it like you can with Cetol.  You have to
revarnish the complete section of rail or the patch will be obvious (at
least up close).

Preparation:  Use 100 percent Penetrol on a foam brush and apply a light
coat directly to the existing finish.  No sanding, just make sure the
surface is clean.  After about 15 minutes (when the surface is tacky), apply
the 60-40 mixture (with a foam brush).  The only caveat is make sure you
have enough "daylight" so the surface isn't still wet if there is a chance
of condensation overnight.  If the surface isn't reasonably dry, the finish
will become cloudy.  However.... you do not need to remove it, just be sure
it's dry & do it again on a warm(er) day and the finish will be BRISTOL.
Obviously, you cannot use this technique if the existing finish is already
shot to hell and flaking off.  In that case, "wood" the brightwork and start
over.  If you have a good finish, the secret is to NOT let it start looking
like some finishes we've all seen in various marinas.

I put varnish/Penetrol on in the spring (2 coats) and in the fall (1 coat).
The spring application was generally done over a period of about 4-5 days (I
said, we had enough brightwork for three boats! -- and the fall application
took 2 days).

Anyone who saw PassageMaker can attest that the brightwork was BRISTOL.  We
frequently would have folks row their dinghies across an anchorage just to
admiringly circle the boat several times and then ask us what kind of boat
(1979 C&L PH trawler - 47 feet), and what we used on the brightwork.  The
boat was NOT under cover & sat out in the PacNW 365 days per year.
Nonetheless, she was gorgeous & we received comments all the time --
irrespective of the season.

I agree with many folks on TWList that if you don't apply the Cetol
correctly, it is orange and it looks like Cetol, not varnish.

Anyway.... that's my 2 cents worth.

You ask, "Are you sorry you sold her?"  You bet'cha!  At least half of us
are!  Guess which half.  :>(

later....  j

Jerry & Pam Munson
Currently Boatless
Anacortes, WA 98221-3158

Hi Everyone... And to put my 2 cents worth in.... PassageMaker had enough brightwork for 3 boats!! I covered it all with varnish. However -- comma -- I cut my varnish (Clipper) with Penetrol - 60-40. It made the varnish flow more easily, it also made the finished product not so brittle so if it accidentally got dinged, it didn't fracture, thus no problems with moisture getting underneath through the fissures. You can't, however, just patch it like you can with Cetol. You have to revarnish the complete section of rail or the patch will be obvious (at least up close). Preparation: Use 100 percent Penetrol on a foam brush and apply a light coat directly to the existing finish. No sanding, just make sure the surface is clean. After about 15 minutes (when the surface is tacky), apply the 60-40 mixture (with a foam brush). The only caveat is make sure you have enough "daylight" so the surface isn't still wet if there is a chance of condensation overnight. If the surface isn't reasonably dry, the finish will become cloudy. However.... you do not need to remove it, just be sure it's dry & do it again on a warm(er) day and the finish will be BRISTOL. Obviously, you cannot use this technique if the existing finish is already shot to hell and flaking off. In that case, "wood" the brightwork and start over. If you have a good finish, the secret is to NOT let it start looking like some finishes we've all seen in various marinas. I put varnish/Penetrol on in the spring (2 coats) and in the fall (1 coat). The spring application was generally done over a period of about 4-5 days (I said, we had enough brightwork for three boats! -- and the fall application took 2 days). Anyone who saw PassageMaker can attest that the brightwork was BRISTOL. We frequently would have folks row their dinghies across an anchorage just to admiringly circle the boat several times and then ask us what kind of boat (1979 C&L PH trawler - 47 feet), and what we used on the brightwork. The boat was NOT under cover & sat out in the PacNW 365 days per year. Nonetheless, she was gorgeous & we received comments all the time -- irrespective of the season. I agree with many folks on TWList that if you don't apply the Cetol correctly, it is orange and it looks like Cetol, not varnish. Anyway.... that's my 2 cents worth. You ask, "Are you sorry you sold her?" You bet'cha! At least half of us are! Guess which half. :>( later.... j Jerry & Pam Munson Currently Boatless Anacortes, WA 98221-3158
HD
huddlestonB_D@email.msn.com
Wed, Feb 16, 2000 8:29 PM

Morely,
On the other hand, we who live in San Francisco have an endless fascination
with seeing the bridge constantly painted. However, I have not decided about
my boat. We did have our foredeck teak handrails replaced in the last
century (1999) with S.S. Who knows what is next.

Bob & Debbie Huddleston                            Krogen 42
AB6NI  KC6SKY                                    "The Deborah C."
HuddlestonB_D@msn.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Morley and Tricia MTTortuga@iline.com
To: trawler-world-list@samurai.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 15, 2000 6:52 PM
Subject: Re: Re(2): TWL: cetol

Gayle,

It is clear that you do not live in the sunny south!! :<)

If you tried the varnish trick here in SW Florida, It would be like

painting

the Golden Gate bridge. Start at the bow and when you get to the stern you
will have to carry your varnish can to the bow and start over.. In South
Florida summer, varnish lasts about 3 months.

Morely, On the other hand, we who live in San Francisco have an endless fascination with seeing the bridge constantly painted. However, I have not decided about my boat. We did have our foredeck teak handrails replaced in the last century (1999) with S.S. Who knows what is next. Bob & Debbie Huddleston Krogen 42 AB6NI KC6SKY "The Deborah C." HuddlestonB_D@msn.com ----- Original Message ----- From: Morley and Tricia <MTTortuga@iline.com> To: <trawler-world-list@samurai.com> Sent: Tuesday, February 15, 2000 6:52 PM Subject: Re: Re(2): TWL: cetol > Gayle, > > It is clear that you do not live in the sunny south!! :<) > > If you tried the varnish trick here in SW Florida, It would be like painting > the Golden Gate bridge. Start at the bow and when you get to the stern you > will have to carry your varnish can to the bow and start over.. In South > Florida summer, varnish lasts about 3 months. >